Ver. 6.9.6 - 1 Feb 2022
This list was created by Rajendra Datta. Many rther people have since contributed, now it is maintained by David Wells and Joe Poutre. CComments, additions, and corrections should be sent to them. This list is intended to include all plastic and resin model ship kits.
From the beginning, this list was intended to be a non-commercial site, in the tradition of the pre-commercialized internet. There is no advertising, and it is available to modellers for free. It is written by and intended for ship modellers. Our goal is to improve the hobby of ship modelling, by making it easier to select good kits, and to provide information on how to fix some of the problematical ones.
While this is a non-commercial site, we are not anti-commercial. Most of us actually like the model industry, and we're happy that they support our hobby. We would even encourage the model companies to read our reviews, so that they can make better kits. Wholesalers and retailers could also benefit from this site by buying more of the highly rated kits. This will benefit modellers as well, by getting more good kits into the hobby shops.
Because this is a non-commercial site, we cannot accept reviews from kit manufacturers, retailers, wholesalers, or importers. We do accept other information (kit lists, basic kit data, etc.) from manufacturers, retailers, etc.
All kits are in 1/700 scale unless noted otherwise
This material should be considered copyright by the authors. This material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is (except for reformatting) and the author is given full written credit for the material. Hobby retailers may display this information as a consumer guide, but may not sell it. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the authors.
| 3.0 | 16 December 1999 |
| 4.8 | 31 January 2002 |
| 5.0 | 22 March 2002 |
| 6.0 | 7 December 2002 |
| 6.1 | 24 June 2003 |
| 6.3 | 1 March 2004 |
| 6.4 | 1 March 2005 |
| 6.5 | 1 September 2005 |
| 6.6 | 1 April 2006 |
| 6.7 | 1 October 2007 |
| 6.8 | 1 March 2009 |
| 6.9 | 31 March 2012 |
| 6.9.1 | 29 December 2014 |
| 6.9.2 | 3 January 2015 |
| 6.9.3 | 8 March 2017 |
| 6.9.5 | 24 August 2021 |
| 6.9.6 | 1 February 2022 |
This section shows a sample of the format we use for kit reviews.
Rating. Review Text.
Frank is our resident expert on HMS Hood. Make sure that you check out his website at HMSHood.com. (DRW)
Yes, that Larry Bond. Creator of the Harpoon gaming system. Co-author of Red Storm Rising (DRW)
Rajen is a fellow escapee from Bell Labs. We started the list over pizza and root beer while we were still both employed there. Rajen has become busy with business and family in recent years (as of 2004) so he hasn't been doing much ship modelling lately. A good fellow, though. (DRW)
Rod is another "good guy" who has helped me in numerous ways. His modelling tastes seem to be ecclectic, like my own, and he has reviewed a wide variety of kits. (DRW)
Tom Dougherty is our resident submarine guru. When I have a sub question, I go to him. He's simply amazing. (DRW)
Michael is a net.friend of long standing. He is a pragmatic modeller, and quite fond of scratchbuilding and conversions. Make sure you check out his web page at www.german-navy.de, which has pictures of his models, and many other articles and images on Kriegsmarine and Hochseeflotte subjects. (DRW)
Gernot is another early contributor to the list. He was the first to add reviews of Japanese 1/700 kits. He knows IJN subjects extremely well. He has high standards, and from the pictures I've seen on the net, he produces excellent work. (DRW)
Graeme is a newcomer to the list as of late 2005, but he's no newcomer to the world of ship modeling. He's a professional. Check out his site: http://www.shipmodels.co.nz. (DRW)
Bill is our resident expert on US Coast Guard subjects, and also very well versed on the subject of sailing ships. Make sure you check out Bill's USCG Model Kit list. (DRW)
Peter is another helpful fellow. He seems to be most interested in Kriegsmarine subjects, and he favors 1/400 Heller kits. Peter also deserves credit for persuading WEM to produce an aircraft set for the Revell 1/720 Graf Zeppelin kit. (DRW)
Jodie Peeler never fails to impress. Her knowledge of liners and aircraft carriers (especially Essex class) is truly amazing, but don't think she's limited to just those. She knows destroyers as well, and also is very familiar with the N/S Savannah. If that weren't enough, she's also a fan of turbine cars and airliners. (DRW)
Allan was one of my first ship modelling friends on the internet. We virutally met back in the early 1990s on the newsgroup rec.models.scale. He was one of the first contributors to this list, and still gets a few words in now and then. (DRW)
Joe Poutre is a good friend, a fellow New Jerseyan, and my co-conspirator on numerous projects. I have watched his modelling skills steadily improve, and he's probably better than me by now. He shares my sense of the bizzare, and it's always fun making up "hypothetical" ships with him. (DRW)
Tim Reynaga has been an enourmous help. His knowledge goes back many decades, and he knows things about obscure old manufacturers that I never would have found. He also seems to have a taste for really small scale ships. (DRW)
Brooks has been enormously helpful to us in researching old kits from long-gone manufacturers. His tastes are often similar to my own. (DRW)
Leif is another early contributor to the list. He gave us his list of Airfix kits, and this became the basis for our Airfix section. (DRW)
Matt Stein started writing reviews for the List in 2004. He's a fellow 1/500 fan, so I have to like him! He started a resin casting business, Matt Stein Models in July 2006. All of his reviews were written prior to that date. (DRW)
Floridian Bill Swan is a newcomer as of 2006, but he provided an incredible number of resin ship kit reviews for Version 6.6. He has impressed me with his knowledge of Steel era and WW1 era battleships. I might have a few differences of opinion with him on the waterline vs. full hull debate. I really want to see his "team of trained spiders"!(DRW)
Doug is another newcomer as of 2006. He tells me that he's a member of the Washington Ship Model Society, and that he's working on a history of the USS Wolverine (IX-64) and USS Sable (IX-81) (DRW)
Editor's Note:OK, so I build kits out of the box. Sue me. ;-) DRW.
My advice is to buy Skywave armament sets to replace the often 1960's era kit parts, and use aftermarket PE sets for the particular type of ship to get an overall increase in quality without waiting for someone to retool the kit. Note that the newer releases of the Aoshima/Fujimi/Hasegawa/Tamiya1/700 waterline series come with the new Leviathan armament sets. Saves much trouble.
My opinion of FAIR would be GOOD if not for the replacement masts etc. I consider necessary to produce a good kit.
A Note on kit numbering: The last three digits are unique to a ship in the Waterline 1/700 scale series, regardless of manufacturer (see above listing of manufacturers). The first two digits identify the company, and the issue batch among other things. Recently, new series numbers have been give, advertised on the box top as "NO.xx", where xx does not necessarily correspond to the old two-digit code. Where there is a new series, it is noted.
Gernot has a point, I do tend to build out of the box, and I usually only fix gross, obvious errors. I prefer to modify the plastic parts from the kit than to scratchbuild or add PEB. I admit that there is a point, though, beyond which kit parts aren't worth fixing, and parts substitution becomes more practical.
My main area of interest is the Kreigsmarine and I am knowledgeable of modern warships having served 21 years in the United States Navy and retired as a Master Chief Petty Officer.
I had heard rumors that Academy had obtained the Tamiya molds for the Bismarck. After picking up the kit, I feel comfortable assuring anyone that this is not the case. I do wish though, that I could have had access to a Tamiya kit to make the comparison up close. The first thing you will notice about the box are the words "Static Model" in the lower left corner of the box lid -- more on this later, and the fact that the box art is rather poorly done.
On to the inside! The kit's deck is molded in three sections. The middle section is designed to be removed for access to the battery box and electric motor mounts. That, apparently, is why the words static model show up on the lid. The multi piece deck leaves two very distinct seems running from beam to beam on the model. Filling and sanding them will destroy some of the deck planking, represented by raised detail. The larger cable reels are molded separately from the deck, while the smaller ones are part of the deck, as is the anchor chain. The anchor chain looks to be too small for what it is supposed to represent.
The Arado seaplane's struts are molded in one piece, similar to the float-equipped British Spitfire, and the Iron Cross insignia are molded into the wings, ala Aurora. The catapult is simply a blank plastic strip, with no detail on it at all.
The flag sheet is frankly, pathetic. The swastika on the battle flag looks like a pinwheel; an aftermarket flag is a must here.
The remainder of the kit appears to be well done. As a footnote, I purchased Gold Medal Models 1/350 photoetched detail kit for this model. Comparing some of the brass parts to the plastic ones in the kit left me with the impression that Academy did a pretty good job on the majority of this model. Of particular note are the photoetched radar antenna and the struts and props for the Arado. They make a real difference. This will be my first experience with photoetch detail of this magnitude, and it looks like it will really compliment the model. (JRO)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
FAIR.
First of all, the kits for Bismarck and Tirpitz are the same and both resemble rather Tirpitz than Bismarck. Box pictures show Bismarck in baltic camouflage in both cases. The drawing on Tirpitz box is signed "N. Sataku" or "N. Sataker". The kit is motorized with one electric motor which is fed by one AA battery. Machinery supplied with the kit looks fine. There is the only shaft and the only rudder. Shaft holder grease is supplied with the kit as well as the cement. Hull consists of two parts - underwater (red plastic) and everything else (grey). So, you may build waterline model if you like.
Armor belt is about 20 % higher than normal shape. Belt transition into forecastle and stern is somehow coarse. One could try and fix both issues it with careful cutting and sanding. Deck plancking and details are ok except wavebreakers which are too bold. Carefull cutting may be of use here. Anchor racks are missing (anchors are molded right on the deck level) which requires gentle fixing. Material thickness in the bow part of a hull is hopefully enough to apply cutting and deeping in the right place. Bow anchor rake and bow anchor itself are missing, yet bow anchor chain is molded on the deck. Same regarding aft.
There are no torpedo tubes supplied or molded. No floatplanes are supplied as well. Catapult details are poor. Turrets are of slightly strange shape but still resemble the real ones.
Model has one major feature which may be considered as a big disadvantage or as real fun. Indeed, second port 5.9" turret and forward port 4.1" turret are missing completely with their basements. Instead, room is made for motor switch which comes as a gear leaning out of the hull right in place of turrets mentioned. No wonder that the assembly instructions show the model viewed from starboard, not from the port! Carefull tweaking and applying extra turrets of proper scale may fix the problem. One might configure motor switch leaning through the funnel. I plan to abandon the switch at all, and to circuit the battery to the motor directly. I should take care for proper balancing the model in this case and to compensate the switch absence. That is just an idea anyway. (AS), Review dated 25 May 2006.
Editor's Note: Re-issue of the Pyro Cutty Sark.
Editor's Notes: See Nimitz-class. Said to have been issued around 1989. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Seems to be a 30cm "box scale" (DRW)
Editor's Note: I have not built this kit, or even seen it out of the box, but from the dimensions and the photo on the box, it looks suspiciously like the Monogram kit with a different stand. (DRW)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out the Monogram Kennedy (1/789)
Editor's Notes: I have no idea what relationship, if any, this kit has with the Otaki/Arii kit. This kit has been issued at various times as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: May be related to the Minicraft Spruance kit.
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: May be related to the Minicraft Ticonderoga kit. (DRW)
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Presumably, this is a close relative of the Academy Bismarck kit. (DRW)
GOOD. Issued in 2007. When I received this kit as a gift, I assumed it was a repop of Kitech/Zhengdefu's 1/720 scale Titanic with its poor molding and odd hull and superstructure proportions. Happily, this is not the case. An entirely original effort, this Titanic is a much better model, cleanly molded and easy to assemble. While I'm no Titanic expert, the kit's proportions are convincing and the completed model looks like the great ship.
Academy's Titanic seems to have been designed with younger or more casual modelers in mind. The complex structures of the original are broken down into relatively few assemblies so that the model can be built up quickly. Nevertheless, the large amount of attractive molded on detail keeps it from looking too toylike. The crisp, precise moldings were a pleasure to handle with no flash, sink marks, or visible ejector pin marks anywhere. The parts are molded in black, white and tan plastic with components broken down so that one could build a nice looking Titanic model without painting it. Decks are in tan, for example, and the white strip along the forecastle above the ship's name is a separate part molded in white to be attached to the black hull. The result is basic but effective. This clever pre-coloring of parts is actually a return to the very roots of plastic ship modeling, like Revell's Taney and Eastwind kits from the early 1950s. Another nod to less experienced modelers (although useful for all of us!) was the inclusion of spares of some of the smaller parts with extra vents, crane assemblies and even a spare rudder.
As a more experienced modeler I was less than thrilled with the simplified assemblies which in places look a bit chunky, and the prominent hull plating, though dramatic, is overdone for the scale. Much could be improved with the application of photoetch, but the simplified molded in details and that plating mean that creating an accurate scale model from this kit would require a significant amount of work. Perhaps the best way to experience this model is to take it as Academy's designers aparently intended it: as an attractive, easy to build alternative to their magnificent (but challenging!) 1/350 scale Titanic.
(TR), review dated 25 January 2010
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
POOR. The box art isn't bad at all but it quickly goes down hill from there. I cannot and would not recommend this kit to anyone! This is another example of a company that has not properly researched the ship, submarine, that they have put on the market. This kit is nothing more than a "toy" that needs assemblyrather than a scale model. On the side of thebox it has this statement:
"FEATURES: Contains optional parts to build as a static display model or a motorized diving submarine".
As a "static display model", it fails miserably because of the lack of attention to simple detail in all areas - hull, deck, and conning tower. The only way that this kit should be built as a static display model is in a waterline configuration. Even as a waterline model it will require extensive work to get it even close to what a Type IXB should look like. I am not even sure that it would be worth the man-hours. Include the motor, add batteries and give it to a 5 year old. Paint optional. Kit rates a "blech". (DK)
Editor's Notes: See Nimitz-class.
Thanks to Jodie Peeler for her help with the history of Adams. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Jodie Peeler's review of the Life Like re-issue of this kit. Originally issued by Adams circa 1958. (DRW)
(TR) 29 December 2008
FAIR. This Santa Maria molding originated as one of the Gowland Shipyard "Ships in Bottles" releases in 1952. It was also issued by Airfix beginning in 1954 and most recently (in Airfix's revised full hull version) by Heller in the 1990s.
(TR) Review dated 29 December 2008.
Their mailing address is:
Admiralty Model Works
12792 West Colonial Drive
Suite 180
Winter Garden, Florida
34787-5937
USA
Their website is http://www.admiraltymodelworks.com/. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. (based on In Box Review)
Note: one of the weirder ships of the 20th century. Armed like a battlecruiser with 15 inch guns and armored like a light cruiser she was officially classified as a large light cruiser. This bizarre vessel saw light service in WW1 and was eventually converted into an aircraft carrier and was sunk by the Germans in the opening days of WW2. Interestingly, her main battery turrets removed for the conversion to an aircraft carrier wound up being installed on the last battleship of the Royal Navy, HMS Vanguard which was finished after the end of WW2. This model depicts the ship in her battlecruiser (large light cruise guise). Admiralty also has released the sister ship to Courageous, HMS Glorious in a later fit that includes aircraft flying off platforms but not yet as a full fledged aircraft carrier which she too was converted into.
Kit Parts: this is a very large resin kit that includes photo etch, brass rod, plastic rod, metal chain and decals for flags. The massive one piece hull and lower superstructure is simply gorgeous and packed with detail. I'm basically speechless in trying to describe the quality of the casting in this kit. It isn't just flawless and highly detailed, it is incredible. You cannot buy a better kit in ANY medium than this kit. It is complete and needs nothing else to create a stunning ship model. What else can I say?
Directions:: Multipage, highly detailed, expertly drawn, line drawings, exploded views and color plates are some of the best directions that you can ever have. In addition to assembly and painting directions (text in English, colors called out in White Ensign Models Colourcoats), there are also clear and concise rigging directions. Among the best directions in the industry.
Packaging: huge, heavy cardboard box with a unique twist. My kit was packed with an inner box that was actually a clear plastic display case! All parts bubble wrapped in plastic bags with foam peanuts in all the voids.
Admiralty is a newcomer to the resin ship maker's club but they are far and away one of the best in the business. (the principal in the company has been with resin products for a long time, but the company is new).
(WJS), review dated 6 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1917.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1918.
EXCELLENT. (based on In Box Review)
The kit depicts the vessel in 1918 with flying off platforms on both turrets. The AMW kit #700/003 of Courageous depicts a slightly earlier sister ship. The ship was at best a white elephant for the RN in this configuration but an interesting subject for the modeler. Glorious began the conversion to an aircraft carrier in 1924 and served as such in WW2. She was sunk by Scharnhorst and Gneisenau.
Kit Parts: this is a superbly cast resin model that includes a beautifully crafted photo etch set, turned brass barrels for the main battery, brass and plastic rod for masts and yards, decals and a resin molded copy of the ship’s crest. This kit is without a doubt one of the finest resin kits ever produced.
The only negative, a minor one at that, is dealing with the scores of incredibly tiny detail parts in both resin and photo etch. This will require a steady hand and a good bit of skill.
Directions: Brilliant, multi-page drawings and text that are among the very best in the business.
Packaging: Heavy cardboard box decorated with a color illustration of the ship. The hull is bubble wrapped and carefully taped. All other parts are bagged and taped in place to reduce movement. Everything is then surrounded in foam peanuts.
You just can’t buy a better model of any kind than this kit.
(WJS), review dated 23 September 2011.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1965.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1985.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1946.
(TR) Review dated 18 November 2009.
I have an Advent BONHOMME RICHARD which is clearly the Revell Essex-Class SCB-125. I am wondering if it is true that the Advent TICONDEROGA is the Renwal instead. (The Advent kit has Revell copyright on sprues and also on the instruction sheet).
(Brooks), comment dated 20 February 2006.
Editor's Note: I'm pretty sure that the Advent Ticonderoga is indeed the old Renwal kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Buckley. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Apparently, the same as Revell's Eastwind kit, though some have suggested that the kit is incorrect for the Burton Island. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Ward. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Eagle. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Enterprise. Thanks to Rob Theriaque for finding the information on this kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Intrepid. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Flying Cloud. (DRW)
Reissue of the Revell Iowa-class. (TR)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Montrose. (DRW)
Reissue of the Revell Charles W. Morgan . (TR)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Renwal North Carolina. Issued circa 1979. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Olympia. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Pine Island. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Queen Mary. (reviewed by Jodie Peeler) Issued circa 1979. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Ranger . (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Renwal Essex-Class SCB-125. (DRW)
Reissue of the Revell U-99. (TR)
Reissue of the Revell Revell Soviet Spy Trawler Volga. (TR)
AER Colectie Srl.,
41 Bolgarskaya street,
office 11 PO391,
Chisinau, Moldova.
April 2010.
OK.
This five-kit combination set is a reissue of the World War Two Soviet types D, L, S, Shch, and M submarines previously marketed by Novo, Maquette, Encore Models, and probably others. Evidently produced by the same Soviet model kit design team sometime during the Cold War, each of the subs is a separate injection molded plastic kit. The kits build into full hull models ranging from five to seven and a half inches in length.
Though not of the highest quality, these old Soviet-era model kits are very inexpensive and generally accurate. With a little extra detail work they could be an interesting counterpoint to those 1/400 scale U-Boats in your collection.
(TR) Review dated April 2010.
| Cossack (Tribal) | Tartar (Tribal) |
Editor's Note Re-issue of the old Airfix Tribal-class kit
Editor's Note Re-issue of the old Airfix Tribal-class kit
EXCELLENT. The most famous of Imperial Japan's submarines, the I-19 is also the most modeled; from Aurora's good old box-scale kit to Nichimo's magnificent 1/200 scale version, the I-19 has long been well represented in injection molded plastic. AFV Club's offering is the first in the more popular 1/350 scale. The kit consists of 111 parts including 72 in grey styrene plastic, 1 in red plastic, 31 etched brass, 7 in clear for the sub's seaplane, plus decals for both the boat and airplane. Parts are perfectly molded with sharp detail and no flash. Dimensions and shapes are dead-on for 1/350 scale, and the density and texture of the raised and engraved detail throughout look just right. The model goes together conventionally, with the two piece hull split at the waterline with a separate underwater hull molded in red. Fit throughout is excellent, and the entire sub can be assembled in just a few minutes. As with AFV Club's Type VII U-Boat kits, nicely done pressure hulls for the hull and conning tower are included, although they are invisible once the sub is assembled. Even if one were to open up all those hundreds of drain vents along the hull sides, the interior detail could scarcely be seen. Similarly with the delicate ribbing detail on the inside of the aircraft hangar; nice, but ultimately invisible. Other unusual design features include a moveable deck gun, rudders, and aft dive planes as well as an aircraft crane and antenna tower that can be retracted into the deck. Of only limited appeal to most modelers, these little gimmicks are at least accomplished with no detriment to scale appearance.
Other innovations are more useful. The forward dive planes, for example, are provided as separate parts to depict them as either deployed or retracted. Although it would have been a simple matter to cut the extended hydroplanes and push them inside the hull to show them retracted, the use of a dedicated part for this is a simple, effective construction time saver. A finely done photoetched bass fret provides railing, small cranes, aircraft components and other parts that could not be done nearly as well by injection molding (although many of these parts are also alternatively included in plastic). These provide an added finesse to the model, leaving little, if any, need for aftermarket photoetch. Good as these extras are, it is the extraordinary quality of the basic kit itself that makes it stand out. Starting with solid dimensional accuracy, precise molding and ease of construction, this kit just gets better and better. The level of detail on the parts is amazing, among the best I have ever seen. The hatches on the main deck, for example, are perfectly molded and even have microscopic handwheels relief-molded on to them. The periscopes, combined with the shears as a single part, are unbelievably fine with all the distinctive details on the periscope heads cast in scale. The guns, binocular mounts, rangefinder and other small fittings are uniformly excellent. The Yokosuka E14Y "Glen" floatplane is a tiny sixteen-part kit in itself with its own decals and photoetch. It even includes two miniscule incendiary bombs with correct shape and fin detail. Amazing!
If I were to offer any criticisms of the kit at all they would be minor ones: the open sides on the conning tower at about 1mm (close to 14 scale inches) are too thick, and the solid molded bridge windows might have been provided as a photoetched part. The decal hinomaru "meatballs" for the aircraft are slightly off register, and markings are provided only for the I-19, although there were 29 of the type B-1 Otsu-gata submarines, some of them well known.
These really are nitpicks, though. AFV Club's I-19 remains an outstanding kit, in many respects better than recent 1/350 scale releases by larger, more established companies like Tamiya, Hasegawa, Aoshima, and Fujimi. Along with DML of China (whose recent USN destroyer releases have become the gold standard in 1/350), Taiwan's AFV Club is emerging as the premier quality producer of injection molded ship kits in 1/350 scale. The big Japanese companies had better watch out, because the Chinese are on the move!
(TR) Review dated 18 November 2009.
EXCELLENT. Comes with decals for both US and ROC Knox-class frigates. Nice detail, no sink holes. While I have never seen a Skywave Knox-can, this kit sure looks like a Skywave mold. I adapted mine to full hull by widening a DML Perry lower hull and adding a SQS-53 sonar dome from an ARII Spruance. Bilge keels will have to be scratchbuilt for this conversion. (DRW)
I don't think this is a Skywave derivative; there are multiple differences in parts. The ASROC launcher, 5" gun, and Phalanx are all moulded differently than their Skywave equivalents. Plus, they include a (correct) SH-2 helo, which Skywave doesn't even produce, even in those ships that are supposed to carry it. (JP)
GOOD. This is the same kit as the DML. Good kit that builds very well right from the box. Some minor fit issues but no worse than the average plastic kit. Props are a little crude but can be made nice with a little sanding. Sinkmarks on the two turrets need minor filling. Good instructions and decent decals. Some details a bit overscale but that's to be expected for a 1/350 injected sub. Just build it clean and apply a light wash and you'll have a fine little model.
(RWS), Review dated 5 August 2007.
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Boston.(DRW)
Editor's Note: Re-issue of the Revell Forrest Sherman.
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Hope. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Long Beach. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Mission Capistrano. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell PT-207. (DRW)
FAIR. I built the AHM version of this kit many years ago, which was a reissue of Revell's PT-212 with different decals. The model was one of Revell's very first nautical releases, dating originally from 1953. It has been reissued may times over the years as PT-207, PT-211, PT 212, as part of the "Admiral's Fleet" and "Victory at Sea" combination kits, and by AHM as PT-207. The model depicts a Higgins 78 foot PT, definitely not a Vosper as some have thought. Often listed as 1/72 scale (including by AHM), the kit is actually closer to 1/98. The difference is apparent compared with my 1/72 scale 80 foot Elco PT-109, which is significantly more than two scale feet longer.
It is a very old kit, but parts fit and details are fairly good. The full hull is a single piece molding. Designed during Revell's infamous "flat bottom boats" era, this kit actually has a nicely rendered hull with an accurate chine, perhaps to aid operation (one version issued in the 1960s came with a motor). The deck and deckhouse come molded as a single unit, with other details either separate small parts or molded directly to the deck. Some of the surface detail looks good, but the dinghy is molded to the forecastle as is a coiled mooring line-not very convincing in this relatively large scale. Weapons are ok. Torpedoes and 20mm Oerlikons are separate pieces, but the latter have gunner figures cast directly to them, which is a real problem if you don't want to include figures! Actually, the most notable aspect of the kit is those three very nicely sculpted crew figures. A very innovative feature for the time, they were created by master sculptor Anthony D. Bulone, best known as the sculptor of the original Mattel Barbie doll. Not one of Revell's best, it is still an attractive, simple kit good for a quick, fun build.
(TR) Review dated 20 April 2007.
Airfix was founded in 1939 as a toy company. Their first model ship was apparently the Golden Hind, first produced in the early 1950s. Airfix was purchased by Humbrol (parent company of Heller) in 1986. Humbrol was purchased in 1995 by Alan McGuire & Partners of Dublin, Ireland, who seemed to want to put some money into the company, but they never invested in new ship molds. They mostly concentrated their efforts on 1/48 aircraft. They did, however re-issue some of their older ships kits. By August 2006, the company fell into grave financial problems again. In November 2006, Airfix was sold to model train manufacturer Hornby, who announced their intention to move production to China.
Airfix ships are characterized by their consistent 1/600 scale, their two piece hulls, and pretty-good overall quality. Prices are usually reasonable.
A few of their early battleship models, (Iron Duke and Warspite) have an odd problem with their main guns. They have flared tips, like the flash suppressors on some AA guns. These flares should not be there, and they should be sanded down so that the barrels taper normally.
A long time ago, (early 1960s?) Airfix had a US office in Philadelphia.
Check out their web site at http://www.airfix.com/ (DRW)
All warships are made in light gray plastic. All passenger ships are made in white plastic except QE 2 which is made in a very light grey plastic. (LS)
Series 1 Historical Ships (not to scale) (white plastic).
These kits are from the 1950's. These are some of the oldest and most primitive Airfix kits. The first five (Golden Hind, Santa Maria, Shannon, Victory, Cutty Sark) of them seems to have existed in two variants, an early waterline model with a "modelled sea" base and a later full-hull model with cradle, the last three were all full models with cradle. (LS)
Classic Historical Ships (brown or black plastic)
Several of these have been re-released lately as "Special Editions". In these kits the preformed shrouds/ratlines have been replaced by a Heller style ratline machine. (LS)
Series 3, 1967; No of parts: 91; Guns elevate: no; 1 aircraft included.
Detail is low to medium; Appearance: slightly clumsy/ok.
GOOD. Like Devonshire. (LS)
GOOD. I think it's reasonably good. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Re-issued by:
No of parts: 71; Guns elevate: yes; Decals for Amazon, Active and Arrow included; 1 helicopter included. Detail is medium, Appearance: good.
FAIR. Needs some slight mods at the stern, but otherwise, the hull is nice. Missile launchers (Exocet & Sea Cat) are too small. 4.5" gun lacks detail, but it does elevate & rotate! (DRW)
Series 4, 1967; No of parts: 171; Guns elevate: no; Detail is medium; Appearance: good. The kit includes 12 aircraft, cable deck & quarter deck.
GOOD. A little lacking in detail, but none too shabby. (DRW)
GOOD/FAIR. My second kit bought a few years ago was in slightly worse shape than my first, but still recommended. (LS)
GOOD. This ship makes a presentable model built OOB. Options include placement of antenna cranes and aircraft elevators. Details are decent. Carley floats are separate parts, 4.5" turrets look good. Aircraft are Swordfish and Fulmers, wings of which appear a bit thick. Could use some better painting instructions, but research is part of the fun.
(LDF), review dated 26 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Re-issued by:
Series 2, 1975.
EXCELLENT. Series 2, first issued in 1974. This was one of Airfix's 1/1200 "Naval History Series" clip-together ships intended for wargaming. This series set the standard for injection molded "wargame scale" models back in the 1970s, and the Ark Royal is among the best of them. The model consists of 42 medium gray plastic parts, all cleanly molded with almost no flash. The above water hullform is accurate with the distinctive knuckle forward and large flight deck overhang aft credibly depicted. There aren't any decals, but six very nice Fairy Fulmars are provided. The 8 inch long Ark scales dead on at 1/1200.
This little kit is in some ways resembles Airfix's 1/600 scale Ark Royal issued seven years previously, retaining some of its better features. One of the things I had liked about that larger version was the open boat decks molded as separate parts fixed to the inside of the hull. I also liked the open sides on the anchor and quarter decks fore and aft which created a realistic see-through effect. Despite its size, Airfix included these features on their diminutive 1/1200 Ark as well. Not only that, they managed effectively to engineer the whole thing as a clip-together! Very cool. This is better than Revell's larger 1/720 Ark Royal which represented these structures simply as deep depressions on the hull sides.
The control island comes as a nine part assembly. Though only 3/4 of an inch in length, the layering of the parts one above the other goes far to make it a convincing representation of that multi-deck structure.
Throughout the model surface detailing is discreet yet effective. On the flight deck the lifts, arrestor gear, and a barrier are represented as subtly raised detail, and the forward catapults are recessed. The dozens of portholes on the hull sides are represented by tiny raised discs with dimpled centers. I would have preferred holes, but at least the disks are consistent and sharp. They actually look pretty good once painted. Liferafts and anchors are molded directly to the hull sides, but they are well done and are convincing in this small scale. The eight separately molded 4.5 inch mounts, though less than perfect in shape, are adequate. The smaller weapons are molded directly to the galleries; fortunately the six 2 pounder pom-pom mounts and eight .50 calibre mounts are in scale and crisply molded. They look quite good. The four rangefinders, molded with their mounts as separate pieces, are first-rate. Similarly with the other small details; the boat cranes and antennas, although molded solid, have delicate raised detail suggesting their lattice structures. Six Fairey Fulmar aircraft are included, and, unlike most aircraft included in 1/1200 scale kits, they are excellent. If only Airfix had chosen to include some Swordfish as well...
I have always liked the 1/1200 "Naval History Series" kits. Airfix released only a few of them before abandoning the scale in the early 1970s, but they remain among the finest ships that company ever produced. The Ark Royal is a first-rate little model-if you can find one, build it!
(TR) Review dated 16 June 2006.
Series 4, 1973; No of parts: 250; Guns elevate: no; Camouflage scheme; 2 aircraft included.
Detail is high; Appearance: very good.
EXCELLENT. A real winner. It is very detailed, and it builds up very nicely (except for one piece of the forward superstructure).
This kit represents the ship in World War II, not in her current configuration.
This kit also makes an excellent source of parts for other British cruisers. It can be kitbashed with an Airfix Tiger to make various Colony class cruisers, or you can cut it down a bit to make earlier City class cruisers. Buy it if you can find it. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. An excellent model. Sadly they left the water line out so you will have do some extra work when masking for painting. Otherwise it competes with Repulse as Airfix's best ship model. (LS)
GOOD. This kit is the best I have seen from Airfix. The details are more crisply molded than in any of the many Airfix ship kits I have built.
The kit represents the ship as she appeared in WWII, not in the modernized appearance she now has as a museum ship. I painted my model to show the ship as she would have appeared at the time of her best known action, the Battle of North Cape.
This kit has nice detail on turrets, cranes and air intakes. It includes two Walrus aircraft, one on the catapult and one with wings folded, protruding from the hanger. Use of PE will emphasize the overall quality of molded detail on this model.
(LDF), review dated 26 February 2006.
Series 4, 1962; No of parts: 170; Guns elevate: yes; 1 aircraft included.
Detail is low. Appearance: bad.
POOR. This is a real challenge for the one who wants to correct details. The armour belt is too low, the water line is too low, all decks are wrongly shaped, the deck details are missing. The 38 cm turrets are wrongly placed, terrible anchors & rudders and so on. Still a quite impressive kit when you are a kid and don't care about such details. (LS)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Series 2, 1974. FAIR. Series 2, first issued in 1973. This was one of Airfix's first 1/1200 "Naval History Series" clip-together ships. The boxtop says the model is intended to "...re-enact on any flat surface famous sea actions and battles", so I guess simplifications and accuracy discrepancies are to be expected. At least this Bismarck is better than Airfix's awful 1/600 scale effort released eleven years earlier. The 50 gray plastic parts assemble into a basic but good looking little battleship.
The waterlined hull is a single part with a solid bottom and separate single-piece main deck, so there are none of those annoying mid-deck seams so common on larger scale kits. This is good since the raised deck planking is amazingly delicate; in fact it is some of the best I've seen in any scale. Assorted deck hardware is also well done with bitts, hatches, vents, and other details sharply depicted. Unfortunately, the model doesn't quite capture the graceful yet solid lines of the original. The length/beam dimensions are right, but the hullform is too pudgy fore and aft. Also, the armor belt is too low and the prominent portholes are missing. Worse, the funnel, superstructures and turrets aft are placed too far back. This problem isn't too noticeable until you get to the fantail, which is about 20 scale feet too short.
As one might expect in a clip-together kit designed for wargaming, the superstructure is simplified and lacking in detail. The distinctive spherical hoods of the 4m type SL-8 antiaircraft directors are molded integrally with the superstructure, represented as rounded tops on the mounts rather than as spherical shapes. Not very good. Also, the aft mounts shouldn't have the hoods at all (unless you intend to build the model as the Tirpitz). The two-part funnel is hollow with an open grating nicely represented on the top. Main turrets are ok, except that the barrels are about 6 scale feet too long and the rangefinder hoods extend too far down the sides-but they are fixable. The 150mm secondary turrets have simplified shapes and the barrels are also too long, but they're useable too. Smaller parts vary in quality from fair to excellent. The tiny Arado floatplane is only mediocre with no floats and an overlarge canopy, but the aircraft/boat handling cranes are fairly good. The 10.5m rangefinders atop the superstructures are delicately rendered, as are the masts. The best parts are the ship's boats, 37mm, and 105mm antiaircraft guns. These are outstanding, rivaling comparable parts in many 1/700 and even 1/400 scale kits. If this kit were more readily available I would be tempted to raid the parts to outfit a Revell 1/1200 scale Scharnhorst or Gneisenau.
Like all of Airfix's 1/1200 "Naval History Series" kits, this is an attractive little model, noticeably finer and more accurate than the more frequently seen Casadio/Almark/ESCI/MPC/Revell "Miniships". Despite its problems, this Bismarck is superior in all respects to the crude Revell 1/1200 Bismarck/Tirpitz. Too bad Airfix hasn't reissued it since the 1970s!
(TR) Review dated 16 June 2006.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Series 9, Classic Historical Ships
Series 1, 1962; No of parts: 51; Guns elevate: no
FAIR. Detail: low; Appearance: slightly clumsy/ok. Appearence destroyed by clumsy davits. (LS)
It's tough to do a ship this small in 1/600. The tiny details are too heavy. (DRW)
Series 5, pre-1962; No of parts: 86; Decals included. Detail: low - Appearance: slightly clumsy/ok. Participated in the Falkland war.
FAIR. A typical Airfix liner, comparable to the quality of the Queen Elizabeth and possibly a bit better. Fit is fine to me, although stacking all those decks can be an adventure! Nice kit. (JMP)
GOOD. This kit represents the liner in her as-built appearance, with First-Class game deck open. Ship soon had this deck opening covered over and short extentions added to the twin funnels.
Major item that needed changing on kit was mast structure, which was a little undersized and oversimplified. Will still make a nice-looking model built OOB. Great decal sheet with deck markings and nice bow herald.
(LDF), review dated 26 February 2006.
Pre 1961, series 1; No of parts: 42/41 Guns elevate: no; Decals included.
Detail: low - Appearance: clumsy
OK. The first Airfix ship. First kits had a special base cradle, later kits had standard base cradles. (LS)
POOR. I seem to recall that the hull is several scale feet too shallow (keel to deck). (Brooks), comment dated 20 February 2006.
OK. Actually, my measurements say quite the opposite. It's several feet too deep. I compared the kit to some Admiralty drawings on one of my reference books. The kit measures about .75 inches (19mm) from keel to forecastle near the bow. The drawings suggest that it should be about .60 inches (15mm).
Series 1, Historical Ships
Series 9, Classic Historical Ships (1969)
Pre 1962, series 1; No of parts: 60; Guns elevate: no; Decals included.
Detail: low - Appearance: slightly clumsy.
FAIR. I think there were some fitting problems with this model. There is an excellent guide to detailing in Airfix magazine guide 7 (PSL 1975) (LS)
Series 3, 1964; No of parts: 80; Guns elevate: no; Decals included; 1 helicopter included.
Detail: low/medium - Appearance: slightly clumsy.
OK. A bit "plastic". Guide to detailing in Airfix magazine April 1976. Someone on Internet informed that the superstructure was incorrectly positioned, I have not checked that myself. (LS)
With a little work, it can be accurate. According to legend, the forward superstructure should be pushed slightly more forward. The Sea Slug isn't that good, but it would be hard to do better. A photoetch Sea Slug launcher is called for, but I don't really expect to ever see one. Up until recently,I didn't realize how bad the Sea Cat launchers were. I didn't even recognize them as Sea Cat launchers!
In addition to the 1976 article, Airfix Magazine had another article on detailing this kit in their October/November 1993 issue, on pg 381. (DRW)
Series 9, Classic Historical Ships (1970)
Series 10, 1975
POOR: The Airfix 1/72 E-Boat is a poor kit. The superstructure, deck and armaments are acceptable for an early war boat. There are some problems, but they can be fixed. For example, the vastly oversized depth charge racks should be discarded. The hull, however, is incorrect in profile and cross section. Most obviously, it is missing the pronounced bow knuckle that was a feature of all but the early experimental boats. There are other problems of proportion and shape that will become immediately evident upon comparison to technical drawings. If you use the hull directly from the kit, your model will not show off the sleek lines that made the Schnellboot an elegant and powerful small combatant. (DK)
Series 7, Classic Historical Ships (pre 1963)
Editor's Note: A collection of three Airfix destroyer/frigate kits, portraying ships of the 1982 Falklands Islands war.:
I wonder why they didn't include the Fearless? It makes you wish that Airfix made an Invincible, or a Hermes, or a Type 42, or a Type 22 or........
Issued circa 2004. (DRW)
Series 3, 1968-69; 2 helicopters, 2 landing craft included; No of parts: 119; Guns elevate: no; Decals included.
GOOD. Detail: medium/high - Appearance: good. A slightly uneven model, in some places the details are really great, in some just ok but you won't be disappointed if you buy this kit. (LS)
GOOD. Pretty nice. It even has decent detail in the landing craft as well. The Sea Cat launchers aren't that great, but otherwise OK. I wonder why they never issued this kit with the decals for Intrepid.....(DRW)
GOOD. Send in the (Royal) Marines! This ship, made famous in Operation Corporate, was one of the more fun to build models in my collection. In the USN, it would be classed as a "Landing Ship Dock". The ship has a well deck in the stern that can accomodate landing barges. Normally dry, this well can be flooded and a stern gate lowered to launch these craft. In addition to this, there is a large flightdeck just aft of the superstructure with five helispots. This can be used by either helicopters or Harrier fighters, giving the ship the capability of a small aircraft carrier. The ship is further armed with two single 40mm guns on the bridge wings, and short-range AA missles.
A friend of mine served on the USS Nashville, and seeing my model under construction, opined that it was very close to his old ship in layout.
Quality of detail on this model is inconsistent. The landing barges are pretty good, the two helicopters are so-so, and the 40mm guns are pretty poorly modeled. Overall, it makes a nice model, especially when some PE railings are added.
(LDF), review dated 26 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Re-issued by:
Series 10, 1978; Reissued as a Heller kit in 1990; No of parts: 195; Guns elevate: no; Decals included for CVG-1 "AB"; 20 aircraft, 1 helicopter, 1 crane, 4 tractors included.
Detail: medium/high - Appearance: good.
GOOD. Guide to detailing in Airfix magazine Sep 1979. Can be built as a waterline model. This is a good kit. The hull above water is made of starboard and port parts with a flat bottom. Two pins extruding from the bottom can either be cut off or put into holes in the separate underwater part. The flightdeck is in one giant part. Everything fits together wonderfully well. Minor error: the aircraft decals are for 1957 but, the funnel is of the rectangular post-1959 type. (LS)
GOOD. Building mine was a dream. Call me crazy, but I prefer it to the old Revell 1/542 kit - the Airfix/Heller version just looks a bit better proportioned to me. (JMP)
Editor's Notes: This kit has been reissued by
For comparison, check out these kits:
Series 6, 1963-64; No of parts: 148; Decals included;
Detail: medium - Appearance: ok/good. The kit includes transparent parts for swimming pool roof and sports roof. (LS)
Series 2, 1966-67; Decals included.
Series 4, 1970; No of parts: 124; Guns elevate: yes; 1 aircraft included.
OK. Detail: medium/high - Appearance: ok/clumsy. To me, a large disappointment. Due to some error in design the front gun turret had not even room to turn. The kit is quite detailed but somehow it just don't look like the other Airfix kits and for example the masts are the thickest found in an Airfix kit. (LS)
OK. This model was a disappointment to me. I felt that the Aurora kit was basically better overall because most of its flaws could be corrected easilier. This is not the case with the Airfix model. First off while the main turrets are very well shaped and detailed they are a little too small and there still is not enough room for them to turn. Unlike the Aurora kit, you can't simply replace them with two from a Revell Scharnhorst or Gneisenau because as mentioned there isn't even enough room. I also was extremely disappointed with the single 5.9 guns. I expected the same level of detail as the mounts on the Narvik DD, which are beautiful. Same goes for the 4.1 inch twins. They are a little better, but again, not as good at similar mounts in the Airfix Prinz Eugen. I do not know if the 4.1 guns are any better on the Airfix Bismarck as I have never seen this kit.
The superstructure was very detailed but the armored tower seemed too short. None of the range finders seemed right compared to pictures I have studied. I do not believe they could be replaced with parts salvaged from other models due to size difference.
The armor belt seems to be incorrect. I believe it was slightly higher on the ship.
Overall, I believe the engraved detail in very good but the layout out and scale problems however lower the overall quality. The smaller Testors Graf Spee is a far better kit, if not the best. (RDF), review dated 10 April 2007.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out the Aurora Graf Spee (1/600)
Series 1, Historical Ships
Golden Hind [1/72] (sail)
Series 9, Classic Historical Ships (1977) Editor's Note: Said to portray the ship in 1578.
(approx 1967)
Editor's Note: Said to be about 18 inches long.
FAIR. Detail: low/medium - Appearance: ok. It's a sound kit but it needs a lot of work to be perfect, the hawse pipes and breakwater needs to be completely rebuilt and lots of derrick and deck details need to be added but I can assure you that the end result is worth all the work. (LS)
FAIR.
Kit Background : This is the oldest injection-moulded plastic model of Hood. Since its release in 1960, it has been periodically reissued a number of times. The kit contains 131 pieces and is a full-hull representation of Hood as she appeared in the mid 1930s. Being 1/600 scale, it builds into a fairly large model of 17"/430mm in length.
Moulding & Detail: The kit is of poor quality when compared to the Tamiya 1/700 scale kit or the Italeri 1/720 scale kit. It suffers from a lack of detail and from large, bulky features. As for the quality of he moulding, it is generally crisp, with a small amount of flash. No sink holes were noted, but a few ejector marks were present.
Hull: Correct in overall shape, taper and shear, with the exception of the torpedo bulges. These are present, but do not correctly conform to the true shape of the ship's bulges. The hull also lacks an armour belt. Another odd feature are the open torpedo mantlets. Fortunately, most of these problems can be fixed with a combination of plastic strip stock, putty and a good deal of sanding.
The deck planking is far too wide for the scale. The deck machinery and features (ventilators, capstans, winches, hatches) are all moulded into the deck and are somewhat bulky for the scale. On the other hand, some items which were prominent on the real ship are not-so-prominent here. One such example is the forward break water. Another deck planking problem is the forward Shelter Deck- on this model, there are planks. On the real ship, however, this area was painted metal.
Guns:
Superstructure: Mostly accurate in general shape and layout. It does suffer, however, from an extreme lack of detail, plus the parts are a bit bulky/thick. There are a few notable errors: Both funnels are completely missing their base structures. They have venting around them, but are missing the small rectangular structures that the funnels were situated upon. Another problem area are the batteries situated on each side of the ship. These areas are completely lacking in detail and accuracy. Instead of a planked deck with undulating/curved walls, each side is moulded with smooth decks and straight walls. This can be corrected, but it will take a lot of work.
Masts: Very thick and bulky. The starfish platforms are poorly done. These can be replaced with ultra-detailed photo-etch starfish by White Ensign Models.
Other: Boats are largely accurate. They could be a bit more detailed though. The same applies to the various rangefinders and sighting devices. These are mostly correct, but all are somewhat lacking in detail. One major problem to note here are the kit's painting instructions. Complete rubbish. Hood never had green bridge decks. Please be sure to throw them away and use our detailed Hood painting instructions instead.
Summary: A good kit for its day (1960), but it looks its age. Fortunately, it can be built-up into a good respresentation of Hood with some aftermarket parts and a good deal of scratchbuilding. This kit can be found in man stores, or ordered from any of several online model retailers. It is also available directly from the Airfix website.
(FWA), review dated 7 December 2003, updated 26 March 2006
GOOD. I have a fair amount of sympathy for this kit, since it was the first kit that won me a prize in a model contest, many ages ago. It represents the Hood somewhere between 1931 and 1937. The hull is quite nice, but the bilge keels are missing. The level of detail is pretty decent for its day. The planking on the deck was pretty impressive for its time. The main turrets aren't too bad, but they need a bit of reshaping at the front. Unlike Airfix's Warspite & Iron Duke kits, the main gun barrels are not flared.
I don't like the way the lower parts of the superstructure are implemented. The bulkheads are attached to the deck. This can make both the deck and the bulkheads difficult to paint.
Overall, I'd say it is pretty good for its age, and it can be fixed up pretty easily. (DRW)
GOOD. If built OOB, this kit will represent Hood as pre-1939 refit. Ship still has its 4.5" secondary turrets and single, open 4" AA guns. A little extra effort goes a long way on this model. Addition of side platforms on X turret, extra detailing on primary and secondary turrets are easy to add. Addition of PE a big help as always, but model will still look good with detailing and rigging.
(LDF), review dated 26 February 2006.
GOOD/EXCELLENT. Series 2, issued in 1973. This was, I believe, the first of Airfix's 1/1200 "Naval History Series" clip-together ships, released about the same time as their 1/1200 Bismarck. The boxtop says the models are intended to "...re-enact on any flat surface famous sea actions and battles", so I expected to see a fairly basic Hood, perhaps similar to their somewhat disappointing small scale Bismarck.
Happily, this was not the case! The kit consists two sprues containing 64 well molded grey plastic parts depicting the ship as she appeared at the time of her loss in May 1941. The model, though measuring a mere eight and one half inches in length, is accurately proportioned and packed with detail. The hull, waterlined with a solid bottom, is correct in overall shape, taper and shear. The single-piece main deck is provided as a separate piece. Detail on the deck is excellent, including a multitude of hatches, bitts, vents, breakwaters, petite ground tackle, and some amazingly delicate deck planking. The raised planking is especially notable, some of the finest I've seen in any scale. The planking is also evident on the shelter deck, but correctly shows this on only the after portion (Airfix missed this on their 1/600 scale Hood). Superstructures and funnels, tiny in 1/1200 scale, are predictably a bit simplified, but they are convincing and basically accurate. However, there is an odd discrepancy with the inclusion of torpedo lookout and searchlight platforms on the foremast. Although the fit of the model is correct for the 1941 Battle of the Denmark Strait, both these platforms had been removed before 1941. Thus the model is incorrect as is, although you could still use them if you make a few modifications to depict the ship earlier in her career. Another inaccuracy is the shelter deck , depicted as a straight line rather than with the angular notches the structure actually had. This can be easily fixed, though. Armament is mixed. Main turrets are good, except that the barrels look too thin; I replaced them with hypodermic needles. The four inch twins are simplified shapes and the barrels are also too long, but they're useable. The 8-barrelled 2pdr pom-poms and UP projectors are very good, but the 0.5 inch Vickers quad machine guns look like single barrel cannons (those on Airfix's 1/1200 Ark Royal, which appeared the following year, were much improved). Other parts vary in quality from good to excellent; masts and cranes are proportional and accurate, and the fire control directors are first-rate. My favorite parts are the ship's boats, which are the best injection molded boats I have seen in 1/1200 scale. In fact, they are better than those found in Airfix's 1/600 scale Hood or even in Heller's 1/400 scale kit!
Minor flubs notwithstanding, Airfix's 1/1200 Hood is one of the better units of their 1/1200 "Naval History Series". Given the perennial popularity of the Hood in all scales, it is surprising that Airfix never reissued it... so now who's your little Revell Bismarck gonna chase?
(TR) Review dated 8 June 2007.
Series 1, 1964; No of parts: 72; Guns elevate: no; Decals included Detail: low - Appearance: ok.
Editor's Note: New mold, circa 2010
Series 4, 1968-69; No of parts: 183; Guns elevate: yes.
Detail: medium - Appearance: good. Was clearly the best Airfix ship when it appeared. Lots of very small parts. Side scuttles a bit ugly. (LS)
GOOD. Some of the portholes are a bit large, (drill them out with a constant sized bit) it has the "flash suppressors" on the main guns, (should be sanded down) and the bilge keels are too long, (easily trimmed down) but otherwise, a nice kit. (DRW)
Note that this kit depicts Iron Duke in 1915, not post-war. (AP)
Editor's Notes: Re-issued by:
Series 6, 1982(?); No of parts: 167; Guns elevate: yes; Camouflage scheme; 1 aircraft included.
Detail: high - Appearance: very good.
EXCELLENT. A very nice kit with more deck details than any other Airfix ship. The model represents KGV in 1941 with her UP batteries. The camouflage scheme is from the first months of KGV's career. (LS)
EXCELLENT. A real winner. Very detailed. It portrays the ship more or less "as built", with UP launchers on B and Y turrets, and the aircraft catapult amidships. The de-gaussing cable on the hull (specific to the KGV herself) is well done, but it must be removed if you want to convert the kit to portray another ship in the class. My real only criticism is that the 5.25" guns are a little off (Revell did them better). The deck details might be a little overdone, and they are difficult to paint. The kit dates back to the mid 1970s. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Re-issued by:
For comparison, check out these kits:
The Airfix-labelled Kriegmarine set includes 11 separate vessels of the WW2 German navy in 1/400 scale:
All of these were previously sold as individual kits except for the E-boats which I think were sold as a pair. There is an instruction booklet containing all the assembly instructions and colour schemes detailed below. The painting instructions are fuller and more detailed than previously, and offer several variants, and are referenced to Humbrol paints. Each type of ship has a descriptive text longer than that in the original kits, and there is an overview of the KM at the front. Decals are provided on quite a lavish scale but all feature the swastika-less version of the ensign.
Overall: an interesting idea (and a bit of a cheap gamble for Airfix, given that they are all old kits), but they have made an effort to provide better instructions and more variety. It will be interesting to see if anyone has the space to make the obvious diorama of a Channel port. It's only a shame that Heller never made the older destroyers and torpedo boats, to make the set really complete. (JRC), review dated 15 October, 2005
Series 1, 1968-69; No of parts: 73; Guns elevate: ?; Decals included; Detail: medium - Appearance: good.
GOOD. Later editions have Exocet lauchers included. Guide to detailing in Airfix magazine guide 7. (LS)
FAIR. It's not bad. It's got a decent level of detail, and comes with a choice of 4.5" guns, or those same too-small Exocet launchers from the Type 21. No Ikara launchers or Sea Wolf launchers, though. (DRW)
Series 2, 1970; No of parts: 86; Guns elevate: no.
Detail: medium/high - Appearance: ok/good.
GOOD/EXCELLENT. Scores over the Matchbox Ariadne in every way, except for the lack of mine doors in the stern. Those are easy enough to cut into the plastic. (DRW)
Lots of very small parts. (LS)
Series 4, 1964-65; No of parts: 139, Decals included; Detail: medium
GOOD. Troop transport & hospital ship during WWI. I consider this to be the best of the passenger ship kits. (LS)
Editor's Note: Series 1, Historical Ships. (LS)
Editor's Note: 24 parts.(DRW)
Editor's Note: Series 8 : Classic Historical Ships (1971) (LS)
Editor's Note: Series 5, 1973; (LS)
GOOD. It's not the same kit as the 1/600 Aurora, but it is comparable, and much more available. (DRW)
FAIR. The forward missile launcher should be different from the other two. It is an SUW-N-1 launcher for an ASROC type weapon, not an SA-N-3 SAM launcher like the others.
(Brooks), review dated 7 January 2003.
Series 3, 1975
Series 2, 1974 (on box) No of parts: 92; Guns elevate: yes. Detail: high - appearance: good (LS)
GOOD/EXCELLENT. Much like the Manxman kit and a good companion to the other highly detailed Airfix kits like Prinz Eugen and Repulse. Detail on mine rails, gun shields, deck , bridge structures and torpedo tubes is excellent. Light AA weapons are poor and there some ejector pin marks in hard to fix places. This model is of the flotilla leader Z 28. (IW)
This is a kit of a German Narvik class destroyer (Z28) of WW2. Quality is comparable to Airfix HMS Belfast; very good for this scale/material. This kit is also excellent for conversion, as this class had different configuration/arnament from unit to unit and as the war progressed. Z28 was unique among the Narviks in having two superfiring main guns forward (others had only one single - and later on most units a double turret) and a large deckhouse and two superfiring guns aft (all others had three guns aft, with two on the after deckhouse). Number of AA guns increased during the war. An interesting kit indeed. (EA)
EXCELLENT. This kit is a joy to build. The seams are very nice and the engraved detail is nothing short of awesome. This model is of the flotilla leader Z 28. The detail rivals that of the Repulse. This model is almost perfect to display with any of Revell's 1/570-size German ships. The detail of the single 5.9in mounts (Why they were not used in the Graf Spee and Scharnhorst kits amazes me) excellent. With some research and scratch building you could easily build a complete (and very accurate) flotilla using this kit.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: A collection of four Airfix destroyer kits:
(DRW)Series 4, 1962; No of parts: 134; Guns elevate: no.
OK. Detail: low - Appearance: slightly clumsy/ok. Generally sound but needs a lot of detailing. Guns are clumsier than the Hood's. The kit represents Nelson as she was in 1945 but sadly all the light AA batteries are missing! The latest one I bought (in 1995) was actually in better shape than the one I bought some 15 years ago but the mold is now so old that some of the (few) details were lost. There is a article how to convert the kit to a pre-war variant in "Scale Model International" March 96. (LS)
FAIR. A bit lacking in detail, and the main turrets are the wrong shape, but you can make a decent model out of it. I suspect that they meant to portray the Nelson in 1946, which could explain the lack of 20mm AA guns. The 40mm Bofors and 2 pounder "pom pom" AA guns are present. (DRW)
OK. This Nelson is about average for the Airfix kits I've seen, with a rather waxy plastic and crude details. There are some exceptions, e.g. Repulse. Not as crisp as Repulse. (AP)
OK. Note that on some versions a confusing line on the instructions seems to indicate the platform with 2 x 40mm quads should be placed cantilevered from the top of the superstructure instead of on top of the conning tower. Scale Modeler magazine actually built theirs that way!
(Brooks), review dated 7 January 2003.
Series 9, Classic Historical Ships (1970)
Series 5, 1974; No of parts: 151; Guns elevate: yes; Camouflage scheme; 1 aircraft included.
GOOD. Detail: medium/high - Appearance: good. A nice kit. (LS)
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review) So far, it looks nicely detailed, and correctly shaped. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. The detail is great and the fit is quite nice except at the stern where a gap is left.
It seems the kit represents the Prinz Eugen in the '41 time frame. So if a later time is desired additional light AA guns must be added.
The detail put into the 4.1in guns and the 8in turrets is very welcomed when compared to the mounts on the Revell kits. (This is the only small scale with elevating 8" guns! Revell take note!!!!) The 4.1in guns are absolutely the best, second to none. The superstructure very accurately scaled and while the Revell kits does a good job or accurately displaying the overall super structure, I personally believe this kit is superior to Revell's version.
First the flaws. The stern anchor chain is only a strip of styrene about 1/2 " in long on the aft port quarter. Removing it is not the problem. It is the repair afterwards. I messed mine up on my first attempt. After you remove the molded on plastic. Cut a 1/16 inch stick of .005 styrene (I had to use 1/8 due to a gouge I made). In photos of the ship, it appears a metal plate was actually mounted on the deck as a chain slip, so this corrects two errors.
The side armor is wrong. First it is too narrow, too long and does not blend in correctly. Fixing this is a real challenge. I left mine in hopes nobody smart enough would notice. Cutting it off and fabricating a new one would require thinning the sides dangerously.
Bilge Keels. Way too thick. Sanding them off will penetrate the hull a little. Applying a thin piece of styrene strip to the inside of the hull covering the indention. After I sanded away the keel, putty and sanded it to shape. Just add thin styrene strip to replace the molded on keel.
As mentioned earlier, the fit at the stern is not good. The deck is to short and leaves a gap about a full millimeter wide. The bow fits a little better. Filling will be required to fix the stern.
Now the good! Because of the scale it can be displayed with Revell's 1/570 scale German ships. It seems the kit represents the Prinz Eugen in the '41 time frame. So if a later time is desired light AA guns must be added. I really like the effort put into the 4.1in guns and the 8in turrets. (This is the only small scale with elevating guns! Revell take note!!!!). The superstructure seems very accurate. I personally believe this kit to far superior to Revell's version.
I emailed Airfix and there are apparently on plans to re-release this kit. Because of the detail of this model and the after market products available you have the options of numerous variants. First you can build any of the three commissioned cruisers (Hipper [requires bow & hangar modification], Blücher, or Prinz Eugen) or the two unfinished CAs (Seydlitz [CVL conversion or CL with 12 x 5.9 guns], or the Lützow [as a CA, CL or in her final Russian configuration - a very interesting endeavor])
I discovered that the twin 5.9 cm turrets in the Revell Scharnhorst are basically the correct shape and only a hair small. First you have to cut off the barrels. I added .005 styrene strip to all surfaces. I cut three gun ports and drill 1/16 holes. A little putty and sanding was required to finish the shape. A friend has a great vacuum forming machine and in a jiffy I had ten (other projects to) triple 5.9 turrets. Other than this the ships structure is unchanged. Since the triple 6in turrets are a little lighter than the twin 8in ones the AA armament is a little heavier. Use the previous book reference.
This kit begs to ask, what happened to the other kits of this era. The Bismarck and Graf Spee are so poorly researched. I emailed Airfix and sadly there are apparently no plans to EVER re-release this kit. Because of the scale it can be displayed with Revell's 1/570 scale German ships
(RDF), review updated 10 April 2007.
I have a remark to RDF's review. One would reconsider aircraft catapults on Seydlitz CL. According to plans I have, there would have been two catapults, one between funnel and mast as in conventional Hipper-class heavy cruiser, and another one aft the mast. Gröner's book "German Warships 1815-1945", Vol 1, pg 67 is a good reference to the subject.
(AS), Review dated 24 February 2009.
Editor's Note: Re-issued by:
Series 2, 1977
GOOD/EXCELLENT. Series 2, issued in 1976. Part of Airfix's 1/1200 scale "Naval History Series" which also included the Bismarck, Hood, Ark Royal, Suffolk, and a Tribal class destroyer. Issued between 1973 and 1976, the series was apparently not very successful as it was soon discontinued and none of the ships was ever reissued. That's a shame, because they were nicely done.
The Prinz Eugen consists of 56 grey styrene plastic parts which build into a model just under 7 inches in length and less than 3/4" in beam, portraying the ship as during the Operation Rheinübung sortie with the Bismarck. Though designed as a clip-together wargaming model, it is finely detailed and compares favorably with with many larger scale kits. Hull, superstructure, and funnel shapes are correct and capture the ship's elegant lines well. The waterlined hull particularly is well done, accurate in shape, taper and shear; better, in fact, than the earlier Hood or Bismarck units of the series. There is even a degaussing cable! The separate single piece main deck is also well done with tiny hatches, vents, bitts, a breakwater, ground tackle...even paravanes. Torpedo launchers are molded integrally with the deck, but in this small scale they look good. My only gripe with the deck is the total lack of planking detail, which is strange considering that the earlier Hood and Bismarck kits in the series had excellent planking. Even stranger is that planking is present on some of the superstructure decks! Fortunately all this is not that visible once painted. Other odd design choices are evident with the armament. The main turrets are good, but the 105mm antiaircraft guns are just ok, resembling scaled down versions of those found on Revell's 1/570 Bismarck/Tirpitz. What is baffling is that the same 105mm mounts on their previously issued 1/1200 Bismarck kit were outstanding... why didn't Airfix simply reuse those? The same with the 37mm twins: outstanding on the Bismarck, mediocre on the Prinz Eugen. Go figure. Other parts are good to excellent. Masts, cranes, searchlights, and boats are good (although there should be more boats), as are the spherical hooded 4m antiaircraft directors. The delicately rendered10.5m rangefinders atop the superstructures are excellent, and the Arado 196 floatplane, poorly done on the Bismarck kit, is outstanding with accurate shape, floats and, amazingly, visible aileron and elevator detail!
Even with some less than stellar design choices with the decks and armament, Airfix's little Prinz Eugen builds into an appealing, accurate rendition of that most graceful ship.
(TR) Review dated 8 June 2007.
Editor's Notes: For comparison, check out
Series 6, pre-1962; No of parts: 131; Decals included.
Detail: low - Appearance: slightly clumsy/ok.
FAIR. The only injection-molded model of this ship we're likely to see, so you have to work with it. Fortunately, you don't have to take it too far. The shapes look very good to me (and the assembled hull looks positively huge), and there are no solid lifelines to remove. Ship is in later configuration with stabilizer fins. Most of the windows on the superstructure are represented by simple raised squares; sand them off and make decals instead. The davits do not line up properly with the promenade windows, so fill the locator holes and place them manually (boats should hang above prom deck window sections, with davits mounted in between window sections). The boats look marvelous and are molded as open boats - consider making resin copies for your Revell Queen Mary. (Indeed, one is tempted to build a forced-perspective diorama featuring the 1/600 Queen Elizabeth and the 1/568 Queen Mary!) Throw away the kit decals, especially on the 2000 re-issue; the typeface for the name on the bow is way off. Not a bad kit by any means, and looks easy to improve. (JMP)
Series 6, 1969; No of parts: 145; Decals included. Detail: low/medium -Appearance: ok. Participiated in the Falkland war. The model represents the ship in her original appearance, with the white funnel and without the later additions on Signal Deck. (LS)
GOOD. (based on in-box review) I thought that the detail was actually pretty good on this kit. The problem is fit. There are many small, but annoying gaps that must be filled. The two hull halves do not align well. It's not that hard to correct, but I've seen better. Still, it looks like this will be a very impressive model when completed. (DRW)
Editor's Note: New mold, 2004. Said to have 239 parts.
Series 6, 1978.
Series 6, 1982?; No of parts: 147; Guns elevate: yes; Camouflage scheme. Detail: high - Appearance: very good.
EXCELLENT!! Portrays the ship in her final configuration. A real beauty. Wonderfully detailed. I did not have the fit problems that Leif had. This is arguably Airfix's best ship kit ever. Now all we need is a Renown to go with her... (differences in the hull bulges make it nearly impossible to convert this kit into a Renown) (DRW)
GOOD. Well, it's not perfect but almost. There are minor fitting problems with the deck and some of the scuttles on the superstructure are missing, but otherwise it is just wonderful. The detailing of the side armour can't be described, it has to be seen. And the deck has even the deck camber curvature! The model and camouflage represents Repulse as she was when she sunk Dec 1941. (LS)
EXCELLENT. Really an excellent kit. If all Airfix kits were of this level of quality, I'd agree with David and go all 1/600. (AP)
Editor's Notes: Re-issued by:
Series 1, Historical Ships
Editor's Note: Presumably Drake's 1588 flagship. Said to be 17 inches long.
Series 8 : Classic Historical Ships (approx 1964-65)
Series 2, 1970; No of parts: 79; Guns elevate: yes; Decals included.
Detail: low/medium - Appearance: clumsy.
OK Terrible superstructure. The deck houses including the platforms are in two parts, the boundary goes right in the middle of the platforms. Clumsy masts. Guide to detailing in Airfix magazine May 1976. (LS)
OK/FAIR. The ASROC launcher is bogus, assembled as if it was two layers of tubes instead of boxes. Put plastic card on top and sides to represent box shape; etch the cell divisions. (Or steal an ASROC from a scrapped Aurora BAINBRIDGE).
(Brooks), review dated 7 January 2003.
OK. This kit was so close to being good. The SPG-51C/D antennas distract. The SPG-51C/D antennas are wrong. I know it is only 1/600 scale, but there is room to improve as the antennas are just round disc. The SPS-52C 3D antenna is incorrect as is the SPS 38 or SPS 40 (depending which time frame is chosen). As mentioned the ASROC pepperbox is awful. The rest of the ship is not bad.
Possible variants:
The ship is missing all it's Whip antennas. This may seem trivia, but think. First there are the easiest things to add to almost any kit. Second, they are pretty easy to research and last; when you see a picture of any ship you can't help but notice all the antennas everywhere!
No SLQ-32 V2 antennas (or V3, only installed on three US ships).
I believe GGM makes a SPS-52C. If not a 1/700 SPS-48E might work, just be sure to make a correct IFF Dipole. Can Be display with Revell 1/542 carriers, just do not put if too close (RDF), review updated 10 April 2007.
FAIR I'm a bit more forgiving of the deck houses than Leif is. It's only a minor nuissance. I do like the hull. Bilge keels are nicely molded in. The separate propeller guards look nice. If you're looking to do conversions, the hull's got the later bow-mounted SQS-23 sonar dome (as opposed to the earlier keel mounted style) That's fine for the Rommel, or the other Bundesmarine Adams class, but if you're going to try to convert it to a USN Adams class, then you'll have to either do DDG-20 through 24, or perform some major surgery on the bow. Brooks is right about the ASROC launcher. I missed that one! The ASROC launcher in the kit looks like eight individual tubes rather than a segmented box. As Randy points out above, this kit has lots of conversion potential. (DRW)
Series 9, Classic Historical Ships (approx 1964-65)
Editor's Note: portrays the 1635-1696 Royal Sovereign, possibly as she appeared in 1637. (DRW)
Series 1, Historical Ships
FAIR. This miniscule Santa Maria molding originated as a Gowland Shipyard "Ships in Bottles" release in 1952; it was among the first injection molded plastic model ships ever marketed. Airfix also issued it in 1954 (without the bottle) as the second unit of their Series 1 "Historical Ship" kits. The initial Airfix release was a direct copy of the Gowland kit, the waterline model molded in white with a small molded plastic sea base and separate shrouds/ratlines printed on a piece of clear acetate. It was issued again by Addar as one of their "Super Scenes" in a bottle in 1973. In the early 1970s Airfix also reissued the kit, this time reworked with a full hull and stand replacing the sea base and acetate ratlines. This revised version was produced in the 1990s by Heller (kit 79705, in brown plastic) as well. Out of production as of 2009, the kit can still be found fairly easily on online auctions and at model swap meets.
Columbus' Santa Maria (Holy Mary) is one of the world's most famous ships, but her exact appearance remains a matter of conjecture and debate. Some experts believe the Mariagalante ("Party-Girl Mary", the ship's original name before Columbus changed it more the politically correct Santa Maria) was a Portuguese style nao, others that it was a carabela (caravel). Gowland seems to have based their model on Julio Guillén Y Tato's 1927 Santa Maria reconstruction built in Cadiz as a carabela de armada (armed caravel). The model's hull shape matches that reconstruction fairly well.
For a kit this old and this small, the little Santa Maria is not bad. The full hull is split down the keel, with heavy but surprisingly believable plank/strake detail. The separate one-piece deck has delicate raised plank markings, stairs, and a hatch. The hull and deck are simplified, but the details present are well rendered and the unit is so tiny that the effect is good. Unfortunately, everything above the deck is out of scale. The mainmast, for example, is some 25 scale feet too high. The too tall, too thick masts support massive wind-filled sails that overpower the little hull. The flags printed on a separate sheet of paper are also too large. Still, the whole thing goes together in just a few minutes or, if you want to do some scratchbuilding, the hull/deck could be a good basis for a more detailed build of Columbus' humble flagship. Plus, the less than three inch long hull scales out to about 1/350... so you can display it with your Tamiya and Trumpeter battleships!
(TR) Review dated 9 June 2006, updated March 2009.
Series 4, 1964-65; No of parts: 159; Guns elevate: yes; 1 aircraft included.
Detail: medium Appearance: good. Guns elevate: Yes.
GOOD. If you want an early (pre-Atlantic bow) Scharnhorst, this is the one. Kit dates back to about 1963. (DRW)
This is Scharnhorst as built, not in WW2 shape. I bought a new one three years ago and converted it to Gneisenau-1939. The kit was in the same good shape as my first in 1965 or 1966. The bilge keel is missing like in most old Airfix kits. (LS)
FAIR. I have two of these and in both cases I was not particularly pleased. My problem probably stems from my earlier exposure to the Airfix Repulse, Narvik and Prinz Eugen models. The last being my stimulus for purchasing the Scharnhorst. I expected this model to have all the excellent products (gun mounts) of the previous two German models. That of course was not the case. So lets start there.
All the secondary and AA gun calibers are way below Airfix standards. How this happened has to be a mystery. On the other hand the main guns are very nice. A little void of detail but nice depending on the source, maybe even better than the Revell kit. The 4.1in guns, while disappointing are still a little better that the Revell kit for sure.
The 01 level seems to have an excessive amount of overhang. From the photos I have seen, this feature seems to be exaggerated. The deck engraving here seems a bit crude as well.
The entire superstructure seems to have suffered the exact same fate during development at that of the Graf Spee. It seems squat and out of proportion to the rest of the ship. The Scharnhorst class was a sleek and beautiful design, this is not evident in this kit the, to the degree of the Revell model.
Over all the kit may actually fall into the poor category with the Bismarck.
(RDF), review dated 3 August 2007.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Series 1, Historical Ships
Series 9, Classic Historical Ships (1973)
Series 3, 1964-65; 1 aircraft included; No of parts: 128; Guns elevate: yes.
Detail: low/medium - Appearance: ok.
GOOD. Not the most detailed thing I've ever seen, but essentially right.
There's a good article on building and converting this kit in the June 1978 issue of Airfix Magazine, pg 554. (DRW)
OK. Portrays the cruiser after her 1935 conversion. (LS)
Editor's Note: Re-issued by:
Series 1, 1977; Clip together kit for wargaming.
Editor's Notes: For comparison, check out these kits:
Series 3, pre-1962; No of parts: 74; Guns elevate: no; Decals included.
Detail: low - Appearance: slightly clumsy.
GOOD I like this one. It's pretty good for its day. It's not perfect by any stretch of the imagination, but the basics are all there.
The kit portrays the ship as built, before her helicopter conversion.
The bilge keels are missing, as are two of the four propellers. Superstructure levels are molded into the decks below them, which can make painting difficult. Lattice masts are not that great, (photo-etch would be better) but OK for their day. 6 inch and 3 inch guns look nice.
This ship also has some excellent modification potential. Airfix Magazine's March 1978 issue has a good article on conversions. The hull is perfect for making Fiji-class (AKA Colony-class) cruisers. Guns and many superstructure parts can be obtained from an Airfix Belfast.(DRW)
Like the H.M.S. Daring. This is a model of Tiger before the 1968-72 conversion. Lines of rafts included. (LS)
Editor's Note: New mold, circa 2010.
Series 4, 1967; No of parts: 170+2; Guns elevate: yes; 1 aircraft included.
Detail: low - Appearance: bad.
POOR. This is the Bismarck model with two torpedo-tubes added, no other changes. (LS)
Series 1, 1974.
Editor's Note: I've only seen it in pictures, but it must be REALLY tiny in 1/1200! At least sometimes, packages came with two ships. (DRW)
GOOD. Series 1, 1974. This was one of Airfix's 1/1200 "Naval History Series" clip-together ships intended for wargaming. Issued as a pair, each Tribal consists of 20 cleanly molded gray plastic parts. They scale perfectly at 1/1200, and these things are tiny: their hulls measure a mere 3.75 inches in length!
As with others in the series, the waterlined hull is a single part with a solid bottom and separate single-piece main deck. The hullform and dimensions are accurate, but the ship rides about 1/16 inch (12 scale feet) too high. There is even part of the undercut below the stern, as if the pattern maker had begun to produce a full hull model and then abandoned the effort part way through. This odd choice by Airfix could actually be a plus since it allows for partial exposure of the lower hull if you want to put the model in a rough scale sea, but for calmer conditions you have to sand off the bottom 1/16 inch. Otherwise things look good. There are simplifications one would expect in this scale (such as the molded to the deck torpedo tubes and solid open bridge), but there are no basic accuracy problems. Surface detailing is delicate and restrained. The four 4.7 inch gun mounts aren't bad, and the miniscule ship's boats (the smallest is 1/8 inch long!) are excellent.
This is a nice little kit, and one of the very few injection plastic destroyers ever issued in this scale.
(TR) Review dated 16 June 2006.
Editor's Notes: For comparison, check out these kits:
Series 5, 1972
Pre-1962, series 4; No of parts: 94; Guns elevate: no; Decals included; 14 aircraft included.
Detail: low - Appearance: slightly clumsy.
The first big Airfix ship. The kit is sound, but low in detail. Needs a lot of detailing to look good. The mast and the guns are clumsy. (LS)
FAIR/GOOD. Detail is decidedly lacking. No bilge keels. Good painting instructions would have helped. (DRW)
Series 1, Historical Ships
This kit is said to be about 22 inches long when complete. It is said to portray the ship in 1765.
Series 9, Classic Historical Ships (approx 1967)
Series 4, 1963; No of parts: 135; Guns elevate: yes; 2 Swordfish aircraft included.
Detail: medium - Appearance: good.
FAIR. This kit represents the Warspite after her 1934-37 refit. The biggest problems are the bow, (kit has a bulb bow instead of a ram bow) and the quarterdeck. (wrong shape) Both can be corrected with some effort. Once again, there is the problem of the "flash suppressors" on the main guns. Sand them off. Superstructure is decent, gun turrets are nice, and the casemate 6" guns are fragile, but nice. (DRW)
A very good model for its time. No errors, just less deck details than later kits like KGV, Repulse & Belfast. (LS)
Series 9, Classic Historical Ships (1972) . Said to portray the ship in 1628.
OO/HO Armoured vehicles: (Series 3)
The polythene ready assembled is a low quality toy, but Airfix did make and still makes from what I know, a regular polystyrene kit version in 1/72, to go together with his tanks. I have one half built, it's not too bad, needs some filling etc. Includes a Sherman tank from the regular Airfix line. (PauloB)
OO/HO Attack Force - (Ready assembled polythene kits for wargamers)
Their web site is http://www.alanger.us (DRW)
Editor's Note: NATO code name "Akula", Russian code name "Shchuka-B". (DRW)
Editor's Note: NATO code name "Delta IV". (DRW)
Editor's Note: New release 2007
Editor's Note: NATO code name "Typhoon". (DRW)
The end of the Cold War has brought about some confusion in nomenclature. For many years, the Soviet/Russian Project 941 SSBNs were known in the West by their NATO code name "Typhoon". Since the end of the Cold War, we have learned their correct project designation and even their internal code name, "Akula" The Project 941 SSBNs (Russian "Akula", NATO "Typhoon") should not be confused with the Project 971 SSNs. (Russian "Shchuka-B", NATO "Akula")
For comparison, check out these kits:
Albatross Ltd.
16622 Jib Circle, No. 2
Huntington Beach, CA 92649
They have no web site that we know of. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably a close relative of the Gearing, below. For comparison, check out the Skywave Sumner class. (1/700) (DRW)
GOOD. Not the very best I've ever seen, but reasonably good, and the price is right. Superstructure detail is a bit lacking, but the hull is pretty nice. Watch out for sink holes, though! The 40mm guns aren't that good, so I replaced them with parts from the Skywave WW2 USN parts set. Like its Skywave competitor, this kit give the builder the option of using either the second set of torpedo tubes aft, or a third 40mm quad mount. Unlike the Skywave kit, it gives the builder the option of building the "DDR" radar picket variant. (DRW)
GOOD. This is a very basic model, with very minimal detail. There are about 50 pieces in the kit, and the instructions are a one page blow up diagram. The instructions have some suggestions for ease of assembly. The kit does not include decals. The basic model is molded as a waterline hull, with the deckhouses and depth charge racks, molded in place. The superstructure and bulkheads have absolutely no detail to it, just a series of flat side moldings.
There are anchor chains molded in place, and the stern 20mm tub, but that's it. The builder must add the upper decks to the deckhouses, as well as the gun tubs. The dual 5" mounts aren't too bad, and the dual 40mm are also finely cast. But they're too tall. They stand too high on their pedestals. The tops of the guns are level with the midway point of the funnels. And the single 20mm are also too tall. Those stand just about as tall as the dual 5" mounts. It is recommended that they be shortened to be less conspicuous (or pilfer them from a Skywave set). The tripod mast amidship is cast very finely, as is the mainmast. But the main mast's radar was cast as a see-through piece, and in this scale, it's very difficult to make it realistic. In addition, while the 5" director base is OK, the radar screens are even taller than the 5" mount. Lastly, the torpedo mounts are cast pretty well, and one mount even has the 5" flash protector housing.
Overall it's not a bad kit, and could use some dressing up with a brass set. But it's nowhere near as detailed as the Skywave Gearing class destroyer. Looking at the hulls side by side, the freeboard on the Albatross hull looks better. On the Skywave hull, it's pretty shallow. Also, thesheer line on the Albatross hull is more pronounced, whereas that on the Skywave hull is more gentle. The Skywave hull is generally a flatter hull. (RD)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out the Skywave Gearing class. (1/700)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Casadio mold. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Casadio mold. Read Tim Reynaga's review of the Revell re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Casadio mold. Read Tim Reynaga's review of the Revell re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Casadio mold. Read Tim Reynaga's review of the MPC re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
From about 1977 to 1982, AMT was owned by Matchbox, and issued a few Matchbox kits under their own label.
Racing Champions (later RC2) bought AMT in 1999, and shut it down in 2006. After a confusing period of lease arrangements, Round 2 Corp. of South Bend, Indiana, bought AMT in late 2011.
Their old address in Michigan was:
AMT Corporation
1225 E. Maple
Troy, Michigan
Their later address (ERTL era) in Iowa was:
AMT/Ertl
Highways 136 & 20
Dyersville, Iowa 52040-0500
AMT plastic car models still show up in hobby shops, but they are manufactured in China. The current AMT Website: http://round2corp.com/product-category/amt/
Editor's Note: Reissue of Matchbox kit. (DRW)
GOOD. This is a reissue of the 1970s Matchbox kit of Exeter as she appeared during her famous encounter with the Graf Spee off the Rio de la Plata in 1939. Like its Matchbox predecessor, this kit is molded in two colors, a dark green and a light grey. Moldings are sharp with most detail raised. Unlike the Japanese waterline series kits of the era, the hull is split into right and left halves, with the decks and base plate separate. This arrangement unfortunately leaves a long, prominent seam where the main deck meets the hull. Worse, the thin, slender hull sides are vulnerable to warpage...which exactly what happened in my case! Once these challenges are addressed, though, the hull looks very good. Detail is decent with the multitude of portholes on the hull represented as tiny raised circles. The kit also captures the distinctive forward knuckle pretty well, a feature often missed. Superstructures, especially the aft superstructure and hangar, are a bit simplified and almost bereft of detail, but the open sides on the bridge are well represented. Small parts vary in quality. The anchors, secondary guns and masts are rather nice, but the crane, Walrus aircraft, floats, davits and boat mountings are mediocre to poor. I would also have preferred some depiction of planking on the main deck, which is completely smooth. Still and all, the kit assembles into a good representation of Exeter. Especially considering the limited selection of injection molded RN subjects in 1/700 scale, this is a very worthwhile kit.
(TR) Review dated 22 March 2007.
Editor's Note: Reissue of Matchbox kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: I suspect that this is the old Otaki kit. Jodie Peeler confirms that it is the same as the Gunze-Sangyo kit. (DRW)
The Axxx serial numbers look like they are out of a catalogue, and do not represent the letter codes on the model boxes. The numerals are of course correct.
I don't understand why, on destroyers, the kit instructions mostly do not agree with the colour instructions...
Aoshima must have the lowest standard of quality control of any Japanese model firm. US importers should take this into account when pricing the kits! (GH)
I cannot agree more with the GH's comment above. The price-to-value ratio is just too high for most Aoshima kits. It seems only worth it, if the kit is the only one for a particular subject you are looking for. (RND)
FAIR/GOOD. Not the greatest things you've ever seen, but not the worst either. Includes Yak-38 VSTOL fighters and Ka-25 helos. (DRW)
Editor's Note: This kit has been issued as:
FAIR: Another Unryu-class light carrier, Amagi was a quick-fix attempt to rebuild the Combined Fleet after the Battle of Midway disaster. Amagi was doomed to never saw combat, except on the receiving end of USN airpower. She was bombed during outfitting and rolled over during an aerial attack in late July 1945. Unlike the Pit-Road kit, Aoshima's kit is based on the older Unryu kit with minor modifications. Fine Molds has made a separate photo-etch set to enhance the details. (ASG)
Editor's Note: See Kagero-class. (DRW)
FAIR Like Nenohi, but light AA not so good - use spare triple light AA from Nenohi for this one! (GH)
Editor's Note: See also notes under Hatsuharu-class. (DRW)
FAIR Good hull and superstructure. Lots of flash, and some heavy and light AA guns were not fully formed. Discard twin 25mm. Trim main gun barrels and replace masts. Will make a good model. Fit is late war. (GH)
Editor's Note: See notes on Aoshima Takao-class, including a review by Bill Swan. (DRW)
POOR. Note there has been an announcement by Aoshima of a newly tooled Bismarck to replace the above kit sometime in April of 2008. The supposed stock number is #42595. It can't help but be better than this kit.
This is an all plastic kit molded in medium gray except for the red plastic waterline plate. The basic shape of the hull is OK and maybe the turrets but everything else is just awful. There is little to no molded in surface detail. The deck is divided into three ill fitting parts that left gaps in the main deck in two places that were very difficult to fix. The rest of the parts fit poorly and were either clunky or over scale or both. The AA battery and ship's boats are especially bad. Do yourself a favor and seek out just about anyone else's 1/700 Bismarck.
(WJS), review dated 15 April 2008.
Editor's Notes: This kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: See Tone-class. (DRW)
GOOD. Also released as the Chiyoda, this is one of Aoshima's best in 1/700 scale. The model depicts Chitose in her seaplane tender configuration before she was converted to a CVL in 1944. Above average for Aoshima, this kit is comparable to contemporary offerings by Hasegawa or even some of the less inspired Tamiya efforts. The hull shape is good, with convincingly replicated portholes and anti torpedo blisters on the sides. Decks have delicate linoleum retaining strips, ground tackle, and various other details accurately molded in. An interesting feature is alternate stern parts to depict either the as built standard stern or the special modified opening stern fitted to Chiyoda to deploy midget submarines. Chitose probably didn't have this modification, but the stern and a minisub are included anyway. These flush-decked ships had quite a bit going on topside with ventilators, boats, cranes, catapults, seaplanes, and assorted plane handling gear in evidence. All of this was fairly well designed with a minimum of seams and, rare for Aoshima, crisp molding with only a few sink marks! The foredeck and fantail are separate parts, but they fit fairly well so this doesn't create any problems. The bridge structure is especially good, with four well fitting levels and even a representation of windows. In addition to the ubiquitous (and useless) paper flags/bridge window slip included in most Waterline Series ships of the 1970s, the model comes with a waterslide decal of the large white bordered red hinomaru national marking to apply to the upper seaplane deck. Smaller parts are nothing special, but acceptable. Recent releases have contained Leviathan upgrade sets which include much improved weapons, aircraft, searchlights, boats and other parts which make this basically good kit even better. (You can spot the new issues by the ill-fitting box; Aoshima deepened the lower box to accomodate the extra sprues, but the original smaller boxtop is retained, leaving a gap at the bottom.)
I built my Chitose in the days before photoetch, but another worthwhile upgrade would be the Gold Medal Models photoetch IJN Auxiliary Ship set (700-27) which replaces many of the injection molded masts, cranes, catapults, and girders so prominent on this ship. This set, complementing the competently rendered basic kit parts, could make this a really standout model.
(TR) Review dated 13 April 2007.
Editor's Note: This kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: See Takao-class. (DRW)
FAIR: Light carrier converted from passenger liner Nitta Maru. Kit comes with standard tree of IJN aircraft although she was not fitted out with arresting gear or catapults. Primarily used to transport aircraft. Sister ship of Unyo & Taiyo. All three carriers of the class (conversion) were sunk by US subs. Chuyo ("High Seas Falcon") was lost on 4 December 1943 to USS Sailfish. (ASG)
Editor's Note: See also: Taiyo-class. (DRW)
OK. Nice hulland superstructure, nice coamings. Superstructure is undetailed, all AA guns are oversize and should be replaced by Leviathan sets. Main gun barrels need to be cleaned up. Light AA around bridge is wrong, should be two pairs each position not just one. Likewise, two twin AA needed extra aroundfunnels. Otherwise, model accurately represents Fuso in 1941. The box art shows the ship correctly, interestingly. (GH)
Editor's Note: This kit has been issued as:
Editor's Note: See Gernot Hassenpflug's reviews under Nenohi and Ariake. Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: See Hatsuharu-class. (DRW)
FAIR. Good basic hull, but lots of sink holes to repair. Deck good without raised painting lines. Coaming thin enough, but guns poor. Luckily 2 Leviathan sets provided to replace all small parts (AA guns, searchlights, boats etc). 16 aircraft provided. (GH)
FAIR. Overall shape and guns OK, octuple 2 pdr pompoms are trash. If you can afford to salvage them from a Revell ARK ROYAL, or from a waterline KING GEORGE V do so. (Brooks)
Editor's Note: This kit has been issued as:
FAIR. Basic hull and superstructure, leaving it to the modeler to add portholes/doors etc. Some sink holes, easily filled, and except for masts all parts are acceptable. Flash is also easily removed. (GH)
Editor's Notes: See also Gernot Hassenpflug's comments under Shiranui. Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: See Katori-class. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Katori-class. (DRW)
OK Nice hull and superstructure. Replace all small parts with Leviathan sets. Redo masts. Torpedo tubes are poor, as are all gun barrels. Kit represents ship late in war. (GH)
Editor's Note: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
(DRW)Editor's Note: See also: Unryu-class. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: This kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out the following:
EXCELLENT (based on in-box review)
Note: this model is part of Aoshima's line of kits called 1/350 Ironclad. Sister ships Kuma and Nagara are also available in different fits.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded plastic kit. Most parts are provided in medium gray plastic with clear parts for windows and a black sprue for the display base. A small sheet of photo etch is provided for jackstaffs and platform supports, no photo etch for cranes, catapults, rails or other details is provided. Like Hasegawa and Fujimi, Aoshima has gotten into the supplementary parts business and provides at extra cost photo etch sets to further detail this kit. In addition the kit also provides a flag sheet, poly caps for rotating guns, anchor chain and some metal screws to fix the finished model to a base.
All parts are clean and crisply molded with excellent surface detail. This too is a first rate kit that will please just about any modeler. The deck is broken into pieces that conform to the varied heights of the hull halves so joints should not be a problem. Painting will be more difficult than a Fujimi kit as much of the deck detail is molded on. Hull is divided into two halves and uses a bracing system with traverse bulkheads similar to those found in the Hasegawa and Fujimi kits with one critical difference. Provision has been made to waterline this vessel. Incised lines go across the hull pieces at the waterline allowing the modeler to easily cut the lower hull off. Hull detail is decent with an attempt being made to indicate plating, however the lines are continuous with no vertical joints indicated. Weapons, aircraft and equipment are nicely rendered and on a par with the newest issues. While there are, thankfully, no Aztec steps you will want to replace the provided plastic inclined stairs with photo etch. You may or may not be satisfied with the plastic catapult and crane. I thought they were just fine. I believe that most modelers will be more than happy to pick up some inclined ladders and railing in photo etch and skip the more expensive upgrades for this kit.
Directions: large format black and white exploded line drawings and photos of the completed model in a multi-page booklet with most text in Japanese. Color call outs appear to be for Creos Aqueous and Mr Color paints. The drawings appear to be clear and unambiguous, you won’t need the text. Painting instructions are provided by a huge, poster sized color rendition of the model.
Packaging: Colorful but thin cardboard box into which all the parts have been tightly fitted with a thin cardboard buffer for the PE and to keep the parts from shifting too much in the box. All parts are bagged so plastic rash is minimized. The system works very well and no parts were damaged in my kit. Excellent box top art is provided as well as photos on the sides of the completed model. All in all the exterior packaging is pleasing and makes you want to buy this kit (unlike the simply awful photos found on the exterior bottom of the recently released Zvezda Dreadnought).
Aoshima in the past produced many a dog of a kit, however, the new issues from this company show huge improvement in casting and attention to detail. These are world class kits. When it comes to the 1/350 series they can stand up to the best in the business.
(WJS), review dated 13 September 2011.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
As to kit parts and quality please see my review of Aoshima #044209, Kinu. A sister ship, Tama, is available in a later war fit. While the kits are similar they are not identical by any means. The ships look somewhat alike. However, Kinu is part of the Nagara Class (consisting of Nagara, Kinu, Isuzu, Yura, Natori and Abukuma) and Kuma was the lead ship of a previous class of ships (consisting of Kuma, Kiso, Kitakami, Oi and Tama). The Nagaras had a greater displacement (5570 tons to 5100 tons) and they were about 10 meters longer and slightly wider than the Kumas. Layout and armament were very similar. These two classes of ships made up almost half of the IJN light cruiser fleet.
(WJS), review dated 9 December 2011.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: See Takao-class. (DRW)
OK. Some parts are off-scale. There are several inaccuracies, flash & sink-marks. Make sure that you dry fit ALL parts before glueing. Some scratch building is needed to make a presentable model. Landing deck has raised parts to aid painting -- these should be preferably sanded down. Make a note of the patterns (they are correct), and then sand away -- mask to reproduce the patterns. (RND)
Editor's Note: See also notes under Kiev-class. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Nagato-class. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: New mold in production 1999. This kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
FAIR For an Aoshima kit, very commendable. Hull has a detailed deck, but portholes have to be drilled yourself. Bridge detail is also lacking, but all coamings are acceptably thin. Triple light AA is good, but the twins which the kit requires are poor. Keep triples for spares. Masts too thick, and most parts have a lot of (easily removable) flash. Makes a good model. (GH)
Editor's Note: See also notes under Hatsuharu-class. (DRW)
POOR. This is an all plastic kit molded in medium gray except for the included waterline plate. There is no photo etch included. This kit is just awful. The shape of the hull is wrong, the deck detail is poor. The assembly process leaves a gap in the deck from the poorly fitted bow piece. The 20 mm guns are so hugely out of scale that they look like Roman shields with spears sticking out of the middle. There is practically no surface detail on the gun turrets and superstructure parts, the main battery turrets are the wrong shape. The cranes and catapults are solid castings with little detail. I could go on and on but won’t. The only thing going for this kit is that it is cheap. A summary in two words: stay away.
(WJS), review dated 15 April 2008.
Editor's Notes: This kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out:
FAIR Basic hull and bridge, portholes need drilling, deck is good though. Some flash to be removed. Light AA poor, gunhouses basic but look accurate. (GH)
Editor's Note: See Kagero-class. (DRW)
FAIR. Good basic hull, less sink holes than Hiryu, deck has raised painting detail though but very nice detail. Thin coamings, poor small parts but 2 Leviathan sets remedy this. 16 aircraft supplied. (GH)
Editor's Note: The kit has been re-issued by Minicraft. The re-issue was reviewed by Tim Reynaga. (DRW)
OK Hull fine, but fittings look clumsy. Coamings too thick, AA guns reasonable, but main guns need work to make them look realistic. Boats are best covered! Raised detail on flight deck in place of decals is not a successful idea either. Time to retool or upgrade this one. Lots of putty needed on the upper hull and deck, fit is rather poor, and there are unfortunately sink holes in awkward places on main parts. Do yourself a favour and acquire references before building this one; it doesn't match up to pictures of the reputedly same ship I have seen. Deck is also too thick. (GH)
FAIR. Light carrier converted from passenger liner Kasuga Maru. Kit comes with standard tree of IJN aircraft although she was not fitted out with arresting gear or catapults. Primarily used to transport aircraft. Sister ship of Chuyo & Unyo. All three carriers of the class (conversion) were sunk by US subs. Taiyo ("Greater Falcon") was lost on 18 August 1944 to USS Rasher. (ASG)
Editor's Notes: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
(DRW)
Editor's Notes: New mold, circa 2008.
FAIR/POOR.
Note: this is the very first issue of the Takao by Aoshima and has it's roots in the late 1960s or early 1970s so the molding of the parts reflects that time period. A very well detailed new tooling of this kit has been released by Aoshima as kit # 28506. Please also see Skywave kit # W-054 of the 1942 Takao.
This is an all plastic kit. Surface detail is extremely limited with much of the forward superstructure simply flat and devoid of detail. The hull has port holes and shallow cut outs for the torpedo battery molded in but not deep enough for the actual torpedo launchers which weren't in my kit anyway. The deck has some molded on surface detail (the strips between the linoleum sheets) and some deck hardware. All of this detail is a bit on the heavy side. There was also quite a bit of flash on my example that was hard to remove without damaging the parts. Aircraft were poor. Ships boats are poor (perhaps ridiculous would be a better appraisal) , AA is grossly over scale and the main battery turrets are poorly represented with either a lack of detail or that present being grossly over scale including the gun barrels themselves. Catapults and crane are oversimplified. The worst part was that the fit of the parts was poor with major gaps in the superstructure and a mislocation of the third turret which caused the guns to run into the forward superstructure. You could fix some of the problems by replacing the AA battery and getting a PE set for the crane and catapults but you will still be stuck with the over scale details or lack thereof on the superstructure and of course those awful boats.
These kits pop up on eBay all the time and they are certainly cheap. I would advise the modeler to stay away from them and pony up the greater amount of cash for the new Aoshima kit or the Skywave kit and you will have a lot better model.
(WJS), review dated 14 April 2008.
Editor's Note: This kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: See Akizuki-class. (DRW)
POOR. Let's start with what's right: Hull looks fine, as do main turrets and barrels. Also secondary turrets. No flash. all other gun barrels poor, 4.1" mountings wrong, light AA wrong. The model does not represent Tirpitz as at any point in her career, possibly the model is based on plans, since there are no torpedo tubes fitted, and 20mm singles in strange positions.(GH)
POOR. Note: Aoshima has released a newly tooled version of the Tirpitz depicting him in 1944 while twinned with a Z class destroyer (former Skywave mold). The stock number on that kit is #33631. The old kit has been renumbered #7103 and should be avoided in favor of the new one.
This is an all plastic kit molded in medium gray except for the red plastic waterline plate. The basic shape of the hull is OK and maybe the turrets but everything else is just awful. There is little to no molded in surface detail. The deck is divided into three ill fitting parts that left gaps in the main deck in two places that were very difficult to fix. The rest of the parts fit poorly and were either clunky or over scale or both. The AA battery and ship's boats are especially bad. There was a very small effort taken to differentiate this kit from the Bismarck kit but not much, almost all the parts in this kit are shared with the Bismarck kit. Do yourself a favor and seek out just about anyone else's 1/700 Tirpitz.
(WJS), review dated 15 April 2008.
Editor's Notes: See also Aoshima Bismarck, which is presumably a close relative. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
OK/POOR Comments as for Taiyo. Lots of sink holes in hull, funnels. Moldings look crude, many parts look rough and some are only partly formed. Most smaller parts are uselessly oversize, deck is too thick and has raised painting detail. 16 aircraft provided. Newer issues no doubt come with the Leviathan sets. (GH)
Editor's Notes: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
FAIR: Light carrier converted from passenger liner Yawata Maru. Kit comes with standard tree of IJN aircraft although she was not fitted out with arresting gear or catapults. Primarily used to transport aircraft. Sister ship of Chuyo & Taiyo. All three carriers of the class (conversion) were sunk by US subs. Unyo ("Cloud Falcon") was lost on 16 September 1944 to USS Barb. (ASG)
Editor's Note: See also: Taiyo-class. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Illustrious-class. (DRW)
POOR. Note: the contents of this kit are identical to those found in the North Carolina kit and my remarks in that review pertain here. A feeble attempt at differentiating the members of the class was attempted by the omission of a deck on the superstructure. I repeat my advice for the North Carolina kit: stay away.
(WJS), review dated 15 April 2008.
Editor's Note: See North Carolina-class. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Fuso-class. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Kagero-class. (DRW)
Note that the ferry SUNFLOWER is a further exception, since it is in 1/500. (Brooks), comment dated 20 February 2006.
Same kit as Vella Gulf.
See Nimitz Class, below.
Editor's Note: From pictures, it looks like the Enterprise after her 1979-82 refit.
See Spruance Class, below.
Editor's Note: This kit has been issued at various times as:
Editor's Note: See Forrestal Class, above.
Editor's Notes: See Geoffry Woods' review under Wisconsin.
This kit has been issued at various times as:
See Nimitz Class, below.
See Spruance Class, below.
FAIR/GOOD. (based on in-box review) If you want an angle-deck Midway class, this is the only one available. I've seen worse. Better below the waterline than the old Revell kit....(DRW)
Editor's Note: See Iowa Class, above.
Same kit as Vella Gulf.
Presumably the same kit as the Yamato. Unknown whether the instructions account for the differences between the ships. (DRW)
Scale is not a typographical error. On box is printed "1/1600 Authentic Scale Model Kit", number 2 of "Japan Battle Ship Series". But, with a length of just over 5.5 inches, scale of kit is closer to 1/1880. Can be built waterline or full hull. Lower hull molded in red plastic, rest of kit gray plastic. Instructions (as most of box art) are in Japanese, printed on inside of box lid. Estimate kit examined manufactured 1970s/80s.
POOR. Kit roughly represents the ship's unique fantail and "step" of forward deck, making it easily recognizable as Yamato class battleship. But lack of bulbous bow, rudders and screws, and incorrect shape of hull, turrets and superstructure are disappointing. Kit does not even hint at distinctive bow flare. Curiously, the sprue contains a forth, unused, main turret.
(MDS), review dated 19 December 2003
Scale is not a typographical error. On box is printed "1/1600 Authentic Scale Model Kit", number 3 of "Japan Battle Ship Series". Single funnel indicates model meant to represent Nagato as reconstructed and lengthened in 1933. At 5 and 3/8 inches, kit scale is roughly 1/1635. Can be built waterline or full hull. Lower hull molded in red plastic, rest of kit gray plastic. Instructions (as most of box art) are in Japanese, printed on inside of box lid. Estimate kit examined manufactured 1970s/80s.
POOR. Hull lacks bulges, rudder and screws. Main turret shape incorrect, with gun barrels spaced too far apart and too long. Secondary armament represented as turrets molded onto deck, vice casemated. Pagoda tower molded too large. Rest of superstructure and deck only approximate in shape and proportion. No bow flare. (MDS), review dated 19 December 2003
Editor's Note: See Iowa Class, above.
Editor's Notes: Possibly a re-issue of the Otaki Nimitz. Arii has issued this kit at various times as:
Editor's Note: See Spruance Class, below.
Editor's Note: See Forrestal Class, above.
Editor's Note: See Spruance Class, below.
See Nimitz Class, above.
Editor's Note: See Forrestal Class, above.
GOOD. I built the John Rodgers kit. The SQS-53 sonar dome is a bit off, (can be fixed with a suitable application of putty) and some details aren't as nice as those on the SkyWave, (such as the beveled joints on the Skywave superstructure. Much easier to paint) but it's much cheaper, has a full hull option, and they throw in a Pegasus PHM and some landing craft for free. 5 inch and Phalanx guns are nicer than Skywave's. On the down side, the diagonal supports for one of the yardarms on the main mast are solid, (i.e. solid plastic between the diagonal and the yardarm, like very thick flash) and need to be hollowed out. The separately molded bilge keels are difficult to attach to the lower hull. The instructions give the impression that they're not supposed to be curved. I was not particularly impressed with the decals. The kit includes VLS launchers for updated Spruance class, although parts for the wider hangar that is characteristic of the refitted Spruances are not included. The Mk 26 launchers for Kidd class are included, but the associated radars are not. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. Very detailed. Good fit on the parts. A few extra details and some PE brass can make this museum-level. As a bonus a Pegasus PHM, an LCAC and some small boats and landing craft are included. A few extra details and some PE brass can make this museum-level quality. Note: while most of the ship is in it's current condition, the hangar is too narrow, as built, instead of the widened hangar all Spruances were given.
(JP) Review dated 28 May 1997
Editor's Note: This kit has been issued at various times as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. (based on in-box review) Japanese inter-island overnight ferry, in service 1971. Large stylized rising sun in red, on white hull. About 13000 grt. Motorized kit, twin screws. Single funnel. Other than the vehicle ramps, reminiscent of Ro-Ro transports, on either side forward of the bridge, and right aft, could be a typical small cruise liner. One piece hull, with nice finely detailed archwork aft, but somewhat spoiled by heavy paint guide moldings for the rising sun decor - would have been far better as decals. Inset bridge windows. Nice deck detail 'fiddly bits'. Includes a tractor trailer and a tour bus - though there is no real place to portray these, as you cannot see into the vehicle deck! Model probably dates from the 80s but I can't find a copyright date.
(Brooks), review dated 20 February 2006.
Editor's Notes:
This kit has been issued at various times as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT. Excellent model, very detailed. A few extra details and some PE brass can make this museum-level quality. For some reason a Pegasus PHM, an LCAC and some small boats and landing craft are included. As this is the only late model Ticonderoga ship available, it would be nice if they included decals for more than one ship. (JP)
See Nimitz Class, above.
Editor's Note: See also notes under Iowa Class, above.
OK. A decent kit for beginners; relatively easy to assemble despite the mostly Japanese instructions. By my calculations it is closer to 1/532 than to 1/600. Finished, it is about 20" long. Designed to be motorized, so the hull is rather lacking in detail and incorrect below the waterline to accommodate the propeller. Comes with the propeller and shaft housing and two plastic "bulkheads" (I guess for the batteries), but no engine.
The 5"/38 guns are simplistic. I've seen better. Might look better with replacement parts. The Phalanx CIWS seem a bit too large, are decent, if undetailed. Much easier to work with than most of the 1/700 variety. The real problem with the kit is the total omission of details. For example, the Harpoon launchers abeam the aft funnel. Scratchbuilding would seem to be the answer, but upon recent inspection, I'm not sure there is enough room provided. The mold of the superstructure seems to short for that. Also excluded are the SATCOM dishes, helicopter control booth, Nixie torpedo decoy doors at the stern, and the anchors! The 01 and 02 levels are molded as one piece, so fixing some errors would be difficult. The most glaring error is the ECM housing on the foremast. It is actually in the configuration for the New Jersey. The distinctive streamlined fairing of the other three ships is omitted, and needs to be corrected. This requires scratchbuilding, as no conversion kit is available to my knowledge.
The 16" guns elevate and the turrets turn, and are fairly well detailed, but (at least in mine) Turret Two is too close to the forward edge of the conning tower. In order to get the turret to turn without catching is to carefully shave and sand the face of the conning tower. If carefully done, the sanding doesn't affect the model much, and it solves the turret problem.
The tripod mast is pretty good, though it could use some PE radars and details.
The instructions are easy to follow, even in Japanese, except that the drawings seem to tell you to install the SLQ-32 ECM antennas facing in the wrong direction. They need to have the angled faces out, not inwards as instructed. This doesn't complicate matters though.
The four Mk 37 directors are pretty good, but the Mk 25 radar dishes atop them are a bit clunky, and would probably be better with replacement parts. The Tomahawk box launchers are simplistic. If nice 1/600 resin parts exist, they'd be better.
The oil refueling derrick starboard aft is good, if undetailed. There is one part included next to it that I can't find in photos of the ship. I suspect that it may be part of the motor assembly for the model.
Among other details missing are a catwalk on the aft side of the second funnel, a boom type crane for boats opposite the oil derrick, and the yardarms for the second funnel are too fragile and should be replaced. Some are easy to fix, 1/700 SATCOM dishes from a Skywave Equipment Set III fill in nicely on this model; a gunfire control radome from a Minicraft Spruance model fits in well as a MARISAT dome carried between the aft CIWS pair, and with some scratchbuilding, a 1/4inch wooden craft ball can stand in for the RPV control domes.
Overall, not a terrible kit, but lacking in so much detail that some serious refitting is necessary to make it accurate. I think it makes a good summer project.(GW)
GOOD. I liked this one. The main deck is in one piece, and appropriately bent. The planking is fairly subtle, though it is implemented with raised lines. The hull is also in one piece, and seems to follow the ideosyncratic hull form of the Yamato class quite nicely. Masts and radars seem appropriately delicate, though you might be able to do better with photo-etch.
The kit is designed to be motorized, and there is a large gouge taken out of the stern to make room for a large, central propeller. Fill that and the shaft hole, and you could have a winner on your hands. (DRW)
GOOD. This kit turned out to be better than I expected, in fact, the details of the afterdeck aircraft-handling equipment were better than the 1/450 scale Hasegawa Yamato. Model was sold as powered model, but electric motor was missing from my kit. Not a problem to me, as I wanted a display model anyway, but could be a disappointment to someone planning to build a powered version.
As an optionally-powered kit, it needs some revision on the hull: center shaft hole plugged, and rudder rebuilt and repositioned to represent real installation.
Float planes in kit especially impressive, consisting of nine parts each!
This kit looks great with PE and rigging.
(LDF), review dated 26 February 2006.
GOOD. Kit is well done. I expected details to be more accurate than in Tamiya or Fujimi 1/700 kits, but these seem comparable. Thus, I downrate this kit. From the other hand, another motorizable kit of comparable size (I mean, MiniHobby 30 cm) has far less details. Underwater part of the hull fits clearly, it is important if you consider motorization. Note that main guns have movable barrels, secondaries have not. Mast looks a bit heavy.
(AS), Review dated 7 April 2010.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Same kit as Vella Gulf .
GOOD. Nice little kit. Contains two hulls - one full hull, and one cut by water line. Decals are included. Compared to Dragon's submarines kits, there are no planes, yet there is one painted on the box picture.
(AS), Review dated 7 April 2010.
Detail is NOT very sharp, crew is ugly, includes decals for D-Day (PA 26-28) and for French navy in Algeria 1953. (PauloB)
POOR. Armageddon models (AKA Mac) is a division of the French model company Mach 2, which specializes in short-run kits of obscure airplanes and tanks; I believe this kit was their first attempt at a nautical subject. It is a generally accurate representation of a WWII-era LCVP with four crew figures and markings for two boats. Unfortunately, the quality of the molding is very rough with soft, inconsistent detail and tons of flash. Parts fit poorly, and details are vague. The crew figures look awful. In short, although accurate in outline, this kit is a crude effort overall-and at US $35 retail it is very expensive. If it were the only kit available it might be worth it, but it has been overtaken by the far superior (and less costly) Airfix/Heller LCVP (kit 01321); even the Pegasus "E-Z Build" Higgins boat model/toy (7650) would be a better starting point for a 1/72 LCVP. The Armageddon kit can still be worked into a good model, but given the better alternatives now available I'd definitely pass this one by.
(TR), Review dated 18 January 2009.
They can be found at: l'Arsenalm (JP)
GOOD. Represents a very old Italian torpedo boat early in WW2. A complete kit of resin and brass photo etch. The hull moulding is very complicated and includes the bridge, both funnels and even the engine cowls. The masts are probably best rebuilt using brass wire and the AA guns replaced with PE. A simple kit suitable for a beginner which builds into an unusual model. (GS)
Two kits, one for each batch: F-781 to F-791, and F-792 to F-797.
GOOD. My L'Arsenal/Navires & Histoire kit of the French aircraft carrier Béarn arrived just on Christmas Eve - right in time to spend most of the Holiday Season with examining and dry-fitting. So here are my first comments:
The kit consits of some 80 injection molded plastic parts, some 70 resin parts, and some 100 PE parts. Besides the parts for the ship, there are also 11 aircraft (Four Dewoitine D-373, three Levaseur PL-101, three Levaseur PL-7) which are in fact small kits of their own, consisting each of 6 resin parts and PE parts for struts, undercarriage, propellors and hooks. Reportedly, the first 300 kits also have 2 additional L'Arsenal aircraft sets (five Loire Nieuport LN 40/41 and five Vought 156) as a bonus. The injection molded parts may look a bit crude, but they are at least of the same standard as Heller parts. However ,their fitting could be better. The resin parts and the PE frets apply to the quality standards of L'Arsenal.
The flight deck, which was planked, is plain, so I guess I will engrave the planking on my model. I will also add the armor belt to the hull, to give some more detailing. The platforms and catwalks are rather thick. But one can easily disguise this by cementing the PE railings to the front, rather than putting them on the top side. The portholes look a bit oversized. This can be helped by drilling them through with a slightly smaller diameter. A more serious problem is the after battery. The 155 mm "turrets" (in fact they are only shields) should sit on a small barbette, like those of the fore battery. You can supplement these missing parts with discs cut from plastic sheet. But you can not carve out the deck above this battery deeply enought to fit the guns. So you also have to raise this deck a bit, which requires some additional filling and sanding.
The great advantage of this kit is also responsible for its weak spot. You can build Béarn in different fittings, and this obviously resulted in some mix-up. The ventilation grills beneeth the island show the state of 1936. For the appearance before the 1934/35 refit, the fore section of these grills has to be filled and sanded over. The structure underneath the fore flight deck applies only for the appearance of 1930-34. After the 1934/35 refit, there was another enclosed deck hung beneeth the flight deck, as is clearly shown on the box top art. The bridge is correct for the 1927 and 1930 state. For the 1936 state, the upper bridge platform (PP 33) should be longer and broader.
After all these critics, you must not forget, that this kit is a first effort. And from this point of view it is pretty well done. Taking in account, that you would have to pay about 150% of its price for a 1/700 resin kit of a comparable aircraft carrier from HP (which would need most probably the same amount of corrections and working over), this kit also is a real bargain. So despite some drawbacks, I would regard this kit as pretty recommendable.
Since L'Arsenal has shown in the past that they are able to learn very quickly, you can be sure that their next kits will be greatly improved. (FP)
Vessels in class: Casabianca, Ajax, Fresnel, others.
FAIR/GOOD. See my comments for L'Arsenal kit 400 03. The kit depicts a good generic version of an early war long foc'sl corvette.
(RWS), Review dated 17 August 2007.
FAIR/GOOD. The kit itself is very well cast with well thought out pour plugs and nice PE. The resin is a bit more brittle than most other resin kit makers use so a little extra care is needed with thin parts. The hull is cast in one piece which always leaves a few bubbles and a mold seam along the bottom. It took very little putty and sanding to correct, certainly less work than the average plastic kit hull seam. A few of the small parts had very small pinholes that were easily fixed with a dab of putty and a light sanding, again far less work than dealing with injected kit seams. The bridge is about 3/4 PE and the biggest problem with the kit is the English instructions are a bit lacking, I emailed Jacques at L'Arsenal and he was quite helpful with that area. The PE rails will be odd to many modellers, they do not have a spurnwater at the bottom so you must bend a tiny tab at the lower end of the stanchions 90 degrees and glue that to the deck. I made some minor modifications to my kit to reflect the corvette I chose to model, no two ships were identical but the L'Arsenal kit will easily build a large number of ships. The kit depicts a good generic late war long foc'sl corvette. As per my usual I replaced a few resin and PE parts with brass wire and rod to take the stress of monofilament rigging.
(RWS), Review dated 17 August 2007.
Mixed media model, plastic, resin and photoetch.
EXCELLENT. This is, to put it simply, an absolutely superb model kit! L'Arsenal's Liberty is very complete, well designed with flawless resin casting and a comprehensive photoetch fret. From the moment I opened the box it seemed that each part I examined impressed me more than the last. The first thing that meets the eye is the hull, which is made from a single hunk of grey resin. The shape is right on the money, and there is absolutely no casting distortion. Details are as fine as they are complete. I was especially impressed with the dozens of tiny supports on the insides of the gunwales, all perfectly cast (Trumpeter did these rather clumsily on their 1/350 Liberty, and Skywave omitted them entirely on their 1/700 scale version). Bilge keels are rendered so thinly you can see light through them--which of course means I promptly damaged mine ...doh! Excellent, sharp hatch covers, bollards; quite a bit of detail is packed directly on to that main hull casting, ready to go. The superstructure is an innovative mix of perfectly cast resin levels and photoetch decks which assemble simply to convincingly capture the boxy look of the original. The guntubs go together in the same way, and are just as effective. Smaller resin parts include 20mm guntubs, cargo mast bases, cargo kingposts, funnel, breakwater, engine room skylight, propeller, rudder, anchors, various capstans, ventilators, lifeboats, two types of liferafts, and weapons. All of these are mastered with impressive precision and, despite some very challenging shapes, are flawlessly cast. Cargo booms (one 50 ton, two 30 ton, and ten 5 ton) are turned brass pieces, very sharply done. Providing these in brass was a clever idea, eliminating the risk of their bending under the rigging to come later. The large photoetched brass fret contains a wealth of details, many of which assemble along with the resin components to make assemblies of great delicacy. Even the instructions are out of the ordinary, laying out the sometimes fairly complex assemblies simply and clearly. I have never been a big fan of resin kits, but this one is exceptional. If you want to do a 1/350 Liberty, this is without a doubt the best game in town!
(TR), Review dated 1 April 2007.
GOOD. The kit depicts a generic armed Liberty Ship and out of the box can be built to represent many of the class as built for the Maritime Commission. You will need to do some minor conversion work to build an accurate US Navy commissioned Liberty (easiest would be an AK type). Excellently cast small parts, very good PE. One piece hull casting that is heavy. The hull is well cast but suffers from two rather large pour plugs and a seam along the keel, luckily the hull is mostly flat bottomed. A little work with a razor saw took off the pour plugs and a bit of putty with sanding fixed the mold seam. The scuppers are flashed over with a very thin bit of resin you need to remove, casting them fully open would degrade the mold too quickly. There is very nice bracing detail inside the gunwales. All parts have very fine details cast in, the various winches and guns are works of art. All the small resin parts had easily removed pour plugs. The instructions are much better than for the 1/400 corvettes and I had no problem with the English translation. The forward gun platform, bridge and stern gun platform utilize a lot of PE for scale thickness decks. Pay very careful attention to the instructions and parts when building the masts, some parts are very similar but won't quite work on the wrong mast. Since the kit is a solid cast hull I saw no point in rigging the cargo booms for cargo handling and built my model with the booms stowed in their upper position, you could as easily build it with them in the lowered stowed position. Be aware, the instructions do not have a diagram for the very complex boom rigging.
(RWS), Review dated 17 August 2007.
Brings it up to 1990s appearance.
GOOD. (based on In-Box Review)
Kit Parts: This is a resin kit with photo etch brass and plastic stock included to finish the model. The hull and most of the superstructure is molded in a strange looking orange resin. The few supplementary parts are molded in yellow resin. The molding is cleanly cast and moderately detailed for this scale. Parts fit would seem to be good. There is some flash but not an extra-ordinary amount. A few parts will have to be removed from a rather thick wafer but there is not that many so the torture will be minor. The primary market for this kit being model railroaders, the emphasis is a bit different when it comes to detail wanted. It would appear to be capable of building up into a convincing model of a boat of its type. This type of vessel was in use in Europe from the early 1900s to the 1970s. Those of you thinking of having some type of wharf or harbor scene with your 1/96 or 1/100 sailing ships might be able to incorporate this ship in your diorama.
Directions:: this is an extremely simple kit so the supplied schematic is more than adequate to complete the model. Painting instructions are called out in Dutch, English and German. There is also included an extensive set of generalized directions for all kit making that is sort of like having Dad in the box, having everything from techniques to admonitions on safety.
Packaging: Sturdy brown cardboard box with a photograph of the completed kit on the box, useful for painting the model. Small parts in plastic bags, but the hull casting was loose in the box rattling like a kid's toy. Miraculously mine was unharmed.
(WJS), review dated 6 March 2008.
Includes one (WWII) Jan Van Amstel class, one (Cold) Dokkum class, and one (Mod) Alkmaar class.
GENERAL COMMENTS: Atlantis Models is a relatively new manufacturer of model kits. It was founded in 2009 by Peter Vetri and Rick DelFavero, who previously ran megahobby.com. In 2018, they purchased several classic Revell, and Renwal ship molds in the bankruptcy of Hobbico.
Their address is:
Atlantis Toy and Hobby
435 Brook Avenue Unit 16
Deer Park, NY 11729
United States of America
Website: Atlantis Models
| Forrest Sherman | Gato | Iowa | Nautilus | North Carolina | Pittsburgh | Ticonderoga |
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Forrest Sherman-Class (DRW)
Editor's Note: Possibly a reissue of the Lindberg Gato. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Iowa-class.
Editor's Note: Possibly a reissue of the Lindberg Nautilus. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Renwal North Carolina. (DRW)
Editor's Note: FAIR. Reissue of the Baltimore-Class (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Renwal Essex-Class SCB-125. (DRW)
Aurora had some foreign partners. They had a Canadian division in Rexdale, Ontario. Aurora was also associated with Playcraft Toys Ltd. in London, England. Apparently, Playcraft did their own manufacturing in England, using Aurora molds.
After Aurora went out of business, Monogram bought most of the molds, and they re-issue some of them from time to time, but some may have been lost/damaged in the infamous "train wreck".
Note: The "train wreck" is a semi-mythical event. Supposedly, in 1977, when the Aurora molds were being moved from New York to Illinois after Aurora's departure from the business, there was a train wreck, which supposedly damaged or destroyed some of the molds. Some say it's true. Some say it's not. Steven Iverson has a good explanation on his Aurora FAQ. (DRW)
The son or grandson of the owner owns many of the old molds, and is planning to rerelease them, cleaned up, and possibly upgraded. They will be released under the name Lost Aurora Plastics, last I heard. (JP)
Editor's Note: LAPCO seems to have vanished, as of early 2003. On the other hand, Playing Mantis seems to have bought the rights to the Aurora brand name, and they have been issuing some kits, including a Seaview. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Re-issue of the Aurora Chinese Junk. Kit was issued around 1968. Possibly re-issued by Revell. (DRW)
GOOD/EXCELLENT; Good by even today's standards, Excellent for her era. Admittedly, by today's standards, AURORA's kit of ATLANTIS suffers from an overall lack of detail now available in kits, but the uniqueness of the subject, the detail that the kit does afford, and the relative ease that this kit lends to super-detailing, in my opinion far outweigh its liabilities. AURORA's kit of ATLANTIS is a classic, and whether you choose to build her, or simply admire this kit as a reminder of plastic modeling's infancy, this kit deserves an important place amongst the truly classic kits of all time. (JR)
Editor's Note: Kit was issued around 1959. (DRW)
GOOD. For its day, it's fairly good below the waterline, but it's still a bit boxy. At least they tried to get the SQS-23 sonar dome and the propellers right. Above the waterline, it's fairly nice, although the molded-into-the-deck railings do detract. Kit dates back at least to 1964. (DRW)
POOR. I gave a lower rating because of the very heavy and difficult to remove railings and the general appearance of the hull and missiles. This kit only has a few, but very serious flaws. The hull shape is wrong like David noted. The aft superstructure is more to the originally completed configuration, prior to the installation of addition flag facilities. The missiles are out of scale, closer to 1/500 scale. I do not believe anything can be done to correct the lower hull except cut it off (I hate waterline kits but it seems the only right thing to do). The ASROC launcher is not bad, better than the one on the Airfix Rommel. The molded on railings are so horrible and I have tired to cut them off but the damage left is near impossible to cover, so I really have no useful suggestion. Last, it seems the whole model is small. The actual ship was over 565 feet long which should make the kit 11.3 inches in length. The knuckle abreast of the foreward Terrier launcher is missing. This kit is on the verge of hopeless, albeit, a individual that submitted to www.steelnavy.com fielded an excellent effort. I could hardly believe the picture was of the Aurora kit. So there is hope. Good luck.
If a later service time is sought, parts such as CIWS and SPS-48 antenna can come from a new issue Revell 1/542 carrier and GMM respectfully. The after flag and equipment spaces can be built simply with styrene. The platform for the SLQ-32 V3 will have to be added as well.
(RDF), review dated 10 April 2007.
FAIR. Like the Revell and Hawk kits, this kit represents a square-bridge Fletcher class destroyer with the late war anti-Kamikaze upgrade. It thus invites comparisons with those kits, despite the great differences in scale. The kit is 8.875 inches (22.5 cm) long, and thus scales out to about 1/509.
For some reason, this kit makes me think of the Renwal Coontz/Farragut class kit. Maybe it's the similar scale and boxy hull. I suppose they'd display well together.
Lots of things look kind of odd on this kit.
The bilge keels are missing, as are the propellers. There's a notch in the stern where the propellers should go, but it's not even close to the right size or shape. The only good news is that the plastic is thick enough to allow the modeller to make some adjustments.
Some good points:
This kit dates back to about 1957, so its faults are somewhat forgivable, but other companies were doing better things at the time, and in some ways, even Revell's 1954 1/305 Fletcher-class is better. Still, because it's a 1/500-ish scale full hull ship, I have a certain affection for it. Despite its many flaws, I'd like to see it re-issued. I wonder if Revell/Monogram still has the mold..... (DRW)
I concur with everything said in the detailed review. I would add that the bridge platform shapes don't look to be correct and perhaps appear to be postwar mods rather than part of the anti-Kamikaze fit.
(Brooks), comment dated 20 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Kit was issued around 1967. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit was issued around 1962. (DRW)
Pro: For a 1962 kit,the level of deck and other details very close to Tamiya kits. Choice of waterline or full hull with a separate forecastle deck. Deck engraving is fine. Most parts have little to no flash clean-up or gaps.
Con: Very inaccurate kit. Hull,main guns, superstructure, funnel and platforms are all wrong. Upper and lower hull have gap issues near bow. Looks more like an early german battleship design proposal. (JosR)
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: A 2-master. Originally issued as the Buccaneer around 1958, in conjunction with the movie The Buccaneer. Kit 210 was a 1958 issue. Kit 765 was apparently the 1972 issue. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit was issued around 1957. (DRW)
Editor's Note: The kit was issued around 1967. It is said to be about two feet long when complete. (DRW)
Editor's Note: A 2-master. Kit was issued around 1959, in conjunction with the movie The Buccaneer. Later re-issued as Black Falcon. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit was issued around 1956. Also issued as "Armed Command Junk". Possibly re-issued by Revell. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit was issued around 1967. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit was issued around 1963. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Airwing is said to include 41 aircraft:
The kit has been re-issued by Monogram and Revell. (DRW)
For comparison, check out these kits:
FAIR. This kit dates back to about 1960. It portrays CV-6 before World War II.
The assembled kit is about 16.25 inches (41 cm) long, so it scales out to be very close to the stated 1/600 scale. The beam at the waterline is about 1 9/16 inches (4 cm) and thus a little bit narrow.
By modern standards, this kit is not much. It is not very detailed. By 1960, other companies were putting out more detailed kits, so I regard it as a bit of a disappointment.
I was not impressed by the hull. As with most of the kit, detail is lacking. Most of the problems are below the waterline. The keel curves upward slightly toward the bow. In fact, the whole lower hull seems a bit "hogged". There are no bilge keels, and the bulb-bow is missing.) On the plus side, if you can correct the " hogging" the overall shape aren't too bad. The four propellers are reasonably good for their day. The hull is not as boxy as many kits from this era are. The hull is a little better above the waterline. It attempts to displays the correct flare below the hangar deck, but it may be slightly exaggerated. I think the stern needs to be a little pointier though.
The flight deck looks reasonably good. It does suffer a bit from raised detail for pre-war markings. Judging by eyeball, the elevators look a little overscale, and the center elevator isn't offset enough to starboard.
The guns are not terribly impressive. The 5 inchers are especially unimpressive. Each gun looks like a stick resting atop a cylinder. The 1.1 inch quads look a little better. The 50 caliber machine guns are molded into the deck, and look pretty bad.
Since I got mine in used condition, I'm not sure I have all of the aircraft. In fact, I have only one. It looks like an SBD, and of tolerable quality for the era.
This kit is fairly rare today. Unless you're really fanatical about 1/600 scale, it's probably best left to the kit collectors. It was sometimes sold with Yamato class BB. Together, they sell for hundreds of dollars on the collector market. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Issued in 1968, in conjunction with the movie "Dr. Doolittle". Pictures show a two master, with colorful sails. (DRW)
OK. Detail is lacking, the aircraft are awful, and there are some problems below the waterline, especially around the propellers. Aircraft include FJ Furies, F11F Tigers, F7U Cutlasses (with folded wings), and a few blobs of plastic that might be A-6s. On the plus side, the sponsons and 5 inch guns are decent, and the overall shape is OK. Kit was originally issued around 1956. The Monogram reissue from the late '70s has a much better aircraft set. Overall, the Revell 1/542 is better. (DRW)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. Portholes look nice! Engraved planking on the deck is a bit heavy, but very impressive for its day. (circa 1958) Bilge keels are missing. Main turrets seem to be a bit undersized. It looks better if you replace them with Revell 1/570s from a Scharnhorst/Gneisenau. The secondary (150 mm) and DP (105mm) guns aren't that great either. (DRW)
GOOD. Straight out of the box this kit is only ok, at best. The armor belt is rounded instead of squared which will be hard to fix. I have tried to figure a way to correct it without destroying the hull without success. The superstructure is lacking in detail, but is quite correctable especially with PE and some styrene. The general hull and deck on the other hand are very nicely shaped with proper spacing of the barbettes. More importantly, the stack, tower and superstructure are the right size.
The 11in, 5.9in and 4.1in AA guns are not good at all, but who cares, as David said, steal two turrets from a Revell Scharnhorst, then take eight 5.9 mounts from two Airfix Narvik DDs and three 4.1 AA guns from a Airfix Prinz Eugen, problem solved! The 2.2cm guns are not bad if you add PE shields.
I do not believe the first deck on the superstructure is suppose to be continuous. I have seen somewhere that there is a break about the area of the catapult. I am not 100% on this though.
The spotter plane needs to be replaced, but again just steal one! I am using one from a Revell Bismarck.
The main range finders are very bad. Steal the aft unit from a Revell Bismarck or Scharnhorst and apply a PE antenna screen. Attention needs to be given to the forward superstructure to increase accuracy especially around the flag bridge. Also note the stack, while correctly shaped is missing some small details, i.e. piping.
The ship's crane are complete junk and should be replaced by the crane from a Revell Bismarck.
This kit is ok straight out of the box, but by replacing the guns and crane with those from other kits and the kits becomes good. This kit can be used to make an early Adm. Scheer. Just rake the funnel cap, Clipper the bow and replace the armored tower with a pole mast and you will be heading in the right direction
(RDF), review updated 10 April 2007.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out the Airfix Graf Spee (1/600)
FAIR. The bow and stern are inaccurate, and the conning tower is too short, and the bulge under the missile tubes may or may not be missing, but there's no other Golf I kit out there. It CAN be fixed!! Kit dates back to about 1967. (DRW)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. Even looks good below the waterline. Still no bilge keels, but it doesn't suffer from the boxiness that so many ship kits of this era do. They certainly give you enough helicopters! Kit dates back to about 1966. (DRW)
VERY GOOD. Detail is excellent for building a LPH as they appeared in the late 60's. (The only one of this class available in plastic) Straight out the box it is very accurate for the day. The 3"/50 mounts are a little thick but as there are no suitable replacements in this scale (Yet, that may change in the near future.) so they will have to do. (The ones from the Revell Midway class are worse) The hull is very nice. The shape and layout is quite accurate. The rudder is beautiful but I not sure about the screw. There is a conflict in information whether it is a four or three bladed screw. A small hangar deck is supplied which is way ahead of its time. Revell and Renwal never caught on to this. The molded on railings on the super structure distracts from an overall nice island. The helos are quite nice there are enough of them like David mentioned, but if a later dated version is required, replacements will probably have to come from WEM or maybe L' Arsenal. There is no netting around the flighjt deck to speak of. The bilge keels are missing as well. Detail is excellent for building a LPH. (The only one of this class available in plastic) Out of the box is very accurate for the day.
This kit could be used to build the Navy's MCC, Mine Countermeasure Control ship, USS Inchon, or later year LPH. There are plenty of kits to steal from and after market sources to acquire the necessary parts. The CIWSs can come from a Revell Forrestal. Antennas are available from Toms or GMM. The only problem may be the CH-53 Stallion Helos! WEM makes lots of small scale aircraft, so maybe they will come to the rescue. I have seen 1/542 scale resin CH-53s on ebay from a private vendor and tried to buy them but were never received.
For the CIWS you will need to build the forward sponson on the forward quarter. This will not be easy. I used a 3/4" (19mm) in plastic tube cut at an angle close to the shape of the hull and then sanded to fit. I am not sure if there is a 1/600 photo etch SPS-40 radar antenna out there, but you will need one bad. The main mast will need to be replaced.
You will need to build a lattice mast aft of the island or steal the one from a Revell 1/542 scale carrier.
The kit can be displayed with Revell 1/542 scale carriers, but not too close.
(RDF), review updated 3 August 2007.
Fletcher class, modified to carry floatplane and catapult. However, kit comes with a Gearing/Sumner bridge superstructure! Really a strange kit. (RH)
Editor's Note: I've seen at least one reference suggest a hull length of 14.75 inches, which would indicate a scale of about 1/306. I've seen pictures of this kit, and it seems to have eight five inch guns in four twin mounts. It looks sort of like a "super Gearing". It was originally issued around 1956. (DRW)
Editor's Note: This kit is said to be over two feet long when completed. It is said to be molded in four colors: black, white, grey and brown. It was originally issued around 1966. (DRW)
Editor's Note: After much discussion, we have determined that the length of the original I-19 was 356.5 feet. The model is 15.5 inches long, so we can calculate the scale at 1/276. 5 Jan 2022.
EXCELLENT. (DRW)
VERY GOOD. This is one of Aurora's best ship kits. Originally issued in 1969 at "box scale" 1/275, the 15.5 inch model can't really be reasonably displayed alongside the more common 1/350 scale ships, but it is still worthwhile on its own. The two part full-hull is split at the keel with a separate deck and bilge keels. Hull and conning tower shapes are accurate, details are fairly sharp. I especially liked the E14Y1 "Glen" seaplane with its separate pontoons and well rendered struts. The only quibbles I had with this kit were the short lengths of clunky molded deck rails on the hull and the inaccurate ribbed surface detail on the hangar-both easily fixed. Reissued by Monogram in 1979.
(TR) Review dated 19 April 2006, updated 5 January 2022
OK. Same kit as Forrestal.
FAIR. Had decals for all four of class. Aft underwater hull 'terraced' with propellor mounting sites, rather than correct shape. Bow seems a bit too narrow. Reasonable 40mm quads and deck detail, seemingly more in scale than the Revell.
(Brooks), review dated 7 January 2003.
Editor's Note: This kit dates back to at least 1962. It has been issued as
OK. Two piece hull doesn't fit well. The ship is in late/postwar configuration with the athwartships catapult removed and a one level deckhouse built up, with boats mounted atop. Deck engraving fair to good. A grossly oversized external belt is molded into the hull. Twin 40mm are mounted where the octuple two-pounder pom poms and 40mm quads were mounted in wartime (and late war). Overall the superstructure's and turrets' scale appearance seems better than the Revell 1/570. Very nice cover painting. The very noticeable size difference between this and the Revell makes me wonder if either are both are out of their nominal scales.
(Brooks), review dated 7 January 2003.
Editor's Notes: Kit dates back to about 1959.
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: See Iowa Class
GOOD. Comparable to, though different from the Airfix. (DRW)
POOR. This kit isn't much, but at least it's better than the competing Revell kit. I haven't seen the Lindberg kit, but I'm assuming from other reviews that it's better than that one too. Thus, I would say that the Aurora Nautilus is the best of the three 1950s-vintage injection molded polystyrene kits. It could be the starting point for a good model of the Nautilus, but you're going to have to work on it.
The kit dates back to 1953, which explains some of its inaccuracies. The real Nautilus was not completed until 1954.
It is the same kit as Aurora's Seawolf. Aurora used the same kit for two very different submarines, and it doesn't represent either one very well. It's a better Nautilus than a Seawolf, though. The sail and the bow much more closely resemble the Nautilus.
The hull measures about 15.8 inches (40.2 cm) long, and the kit thus scales out to almost exactly 1/250 scale.
The hull is substantially too wide. The real Nautilus has a beam of 27 feet 8 inches (about 8.43 meters) The kit's beam is about 1 11/16 inches (43 mm), but should be just a little over 1 5/16 inches. (33 mm) The excess width is most noticable at the stern. The tip of the stern is about 11/16 inch wide, whereas it should taper to nearly nothing, and thus requires serious surgery.
This is not as impossible as it might seem at first. Since the hull is in two pieces, split along the keel, it is possible to narrow the hull aft by removing material along the seam. The oval shape of the kit's cross section will become more circular, and thus more accurate, when you narrow it. Save the rudders if you can. While they are too tall, it is possible to cut them down into something relatively close. Cut about 3/16 inch (5 mm) off of the tip of each rudder, and you'll be tolerably close.
The limber holes are completely wrong. After 1956, the real Nautilus didn't have any, and before 1956, they were fewer in number and much more widely spaced. I filled kit's limber holes, (I used automotive glazing putty) and scribed a new free flood slot.
The sail is salvageable. It is about the right size, but requires some reshaping. It is a little wide, but can probably be narrowed with some work. It also needs to be moved about a quarter inch (6 mm) further forward. The scopes & antennae on the sail are laughably bad. They are oversized, and bloated. I recommend total replacement with scratchbuilt pieces.
The propellers are flat, 4-bladed things. If you can find 5-bladed replacements, I'd recommend replacing the kit's props.
The missile launcher and storage tank (parts added by Aurora around 1957) were not installed on either the Nautilus or the Seawolf, but they were used on several older subs, so they're not a complete fantasy. Just leave them off.
If you can find a copy of Ken Hart's article Correcting, Modifying and Detailing Aurora's USS Nautilus (Model Ship Builder magazine, #98, November/December 1995, pg. 55) I strongly recommend reading it. It will help enormously.
Special thanks to Tom Dougherty, for many photos & drawings, as well as much advice.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out the following:
FAIR. (based on in-box review of a partially built kit) This kit looks remarkably like a scaled down version of the Revell 1/535 kit. It has molded-into-the-deck 20mm guns, and many other features that are strongly reminiscent of the Revell. It even seems to be a "flat-bottom boat", in the unfortunate Revell tradition. (DRW)
And don't be fooled by the box cover that shows her in Vietnam fit. Inside it's the WWII version. (JP)
Editor's Note: Presumably the same as the Iowa kit, reviewed by Brooks Rowlett. (DRW)
Editor's Note: The kit was issued circa 1963. Pictures on the net suggest that it is a 2-master. Also issued as just "Corsair". (DRW)
OK. Same kit as Forrestal.
FAIR/GOOD. The Aurora Seaview was originally issued in 1965, and it had the difficult fit and awkward details typical of the era. Molded in black and clear plastic parts, it depicted the fictional sub as it appeared in the 1961 movie. As a kid I liked the relatively small number of parts, the mass of raised panel lines (absent from the recent Polar Lights reissue) and the clear observation window/spotlight, but the fit was terrible! Apparently it was not entirely "accurate" either, with the flying sub access door the wrong shape, the hull forward the sail too short, different ballast vent patterns, etc., but what the hell...a model...of a model...of a fictional ship... it looked good to me! The Aurora kit is now rare and commands outrageous prices among collectors, but Polar Lights (the meaning of "Aurora"...get it?) issued a version of it in 2002. It appears to be a pantograph as they describe it as "a reproduction of the classic kit from the 1960s" on their website. Their version has lost the raised panel lines and has a smaller seafloor base, but appears to be otherwise identical to the Aurora original.
(TR) Review dated 19 April 2006
Editor's Note: The mold may have been lost in the train wreck. Examples of this kit sell for hundreds of dollars. On the other hand, in 2002, Polar Lights issued a Seaview kit. I don't know if the Polar Lights kit is a pantograph, or if it was made with the original mold. Stay tuned! (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit was issued around 1966. The box says that when built, the kit is over two feet long. Hull is said to be about 19 inches long. (DRW)
POOR. Same kit as Nautilus. Totally wrong for the Seawolf. It lacks the Seawolf's characteristic "stepped" sail and raised bow.(DRW)
GOOD. For its day, this is a remarkable kit. Apparently, the kit came out just shortly after the real sub! It's a quantum leap better than Aurora's Nautilus/Seawolf kit. While it does have its problems, most of the big ones are easy to fix. The scopes and antennae are a bit off, and there should be more blades on the propeller, (the kit has only three big blades instead of five smaller ones) and the profile of the nose is a little blunt, (can be sanded down a bit) but pretty darn good otherwise. The length and beam seem to be nicely proportional. Except for the tip of the bow, which should be pointier, the profile is quite nice. The sail should be moved about 1/4 inch (6mm) further forward, but that's almost trivially easy to do on this kit. The "reactor cover" aft is entirely misplaced, (as is the reactor below, so you might want to just leave the reactor out entirely) so just glue down the reactor cover and seal up the seam. I used Jim Christley's drawing on pg. 132 of Norman Friedman's "US Submarines Since 1945: An Illustrated Design History" (ISBN 1-55750-260-9) as a reference. If you can find a copy of Ken Hart's article on correcting this kit (SubCommittee Report #7, December 1991, pg 42) it's well worth reading.
Editor's Note: This kit has been re-issued several times by
FAIR. (based on In box review) A beginner modeler would rate is as GOOD. It looks like it would build up to an attractive model. Brown plastic hull and small parts; white plastic masts and sails (injection, not vac-form). Brown molded ratlines, but they are flat on the backside! Some unevenness in above water undecorated hull that may be an attempt to suggest wood grain; underwater hull smooth. Large amount of decorative engraved detail in upper wales that is not unreasonable for this scale, but appears to show a bit of mold wear on my example. All lower deck guns are molded as barrels to glue to locating holes in the wells of the gunports, which are molded with port lids open and flat against hull. Completely molded guns on carriages on upper deck are good, and compare reasonably with those on Revell small CONSTITUTION. One strange oversight is that the extensions of the side galleries at the stern appear to have overlooked that there are open walkways at the fore ends; the are molded as if they are 'crawlspace' boxes. This might be difficult to correct. The deck gratings are nice, though not open lattices; the main boat is two pieces (hull, gunwales/seats) and shows spaces along the gunwales that could be reasonably interpreted to be oarlocks. Rather nice authentic for period flag sheet (Scots flag not yet incorporated into overall Union flag). Instructions indicate that the model originally came with black and white thread (not jute?) but there are NO rigging instructions; just a reference to using photographs in instructions as a rigging guide. My example, bought at a flea market, had been partly assembled and then disassembled again, but the hull fit appears to be good. Box and instructions are copyright 1967.
(Brooks), review dated 20 February 2006.
GOOD. Pretty good, for its day. I admit that below the waterline, it's pretty bad, but it's pretty good above. It's rather like a scaled down Revell Baltimore Class. Like the Revell kit, it has the rounded stern of the later units of the Baltimore class. The kit came with decals for the whole Baltimore class. This kit dates back at least to 1962, possibly as far back as 1957.(DRW)
GOOD. This is a review from memory. This is one of the neatest models Aurora ever made. The scale was probably around 1/72nd. The shape was accurate; the folding foils were a bit difficult but nice when you got them to work - if only the bow doors for the fore foil could have been movable! The guns were nicely detailed; sailor figures looked realistic, and the model had a light grey hull and superstructure, and dark grey deck and gun parts. It made a most interesting, impressive looking model. Clear plastic part for bridge windows was included.
(Brooks), review dated 20 February 2006.
Same kit as U-505.
GOOD. A bit basic by modern standards, but fundamentally OK. Deck guns are not very detailed. As far as I know, the real U-505 didn't have the net cutter on the bow, at least not at the time of her capture. It's easy enough to leave it off and fill in the mounting holes. It was originally issued sometime around 1961. It was reissued by Monogram under SSP in 1996. Grab 'em while you can! (DRW)
Editor's Note: Includes Iowa, Forrestal, St. Paul, and Bennion. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit was issued around 1957. The box says that when built, the kit is about twelve inches long. Scale is unclear, some sources say 1/60, others say 1/64.(DRW)
I have somewhere a nearly built Aurora Viking ship, scale around 1/60, judging from the men. Classic Aurora thickness etc, don't know if it's the same model as the Heller one. (PauloB)
Editor's Note: Said to be about 15 inches (38 cm) long. Pictures show a single piece hull molded in white, and a single piece deck molded in brown. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit was issued around 1966. (DRW)
POOR. Molded from an early drawing that showed the early war configuration on one side of the deck plan (6.1 inch triple amidships) and late war (6.1 inch removed, 3 twin 5 inch added) on the other, so the kit is asymmetrical and does not represent the real ship at any time. Unusually crude for Aurora, especially in light AA. "K profile" mainmast difficult to make. Boat hangars not even molded open. It had a two piece hull, but OK fit compared to other Aurora two piece hulls. (Brooks), review dated 7 January 2003, updated 20 February 2006.
Editor's Notes: Extremely rare. Sometimes sold together with Enterprise. >From pictures I've seen online, it looks like the hull is split along the keel, sort of like an Airfix kit. This kit was issued around 1960.
For comparison, check out these (admittedly much more modern) kits:
Editor's Note: Combination of the Enterprise and Yamato kits. Issued circa 1962, as part of a "American Heritage Naval Battles of World War II" series. Extremely rare. (DRW)
(TR) updated 18 January 2009
GOOD. This kit is part of the extensive "1/2000 Navy Collection" issued by Bandai in the 1970s. Apparently aimed both at the modeler and wargamer, this series of small injection molded kits offered not only the usual battleships and carriers, but a selection of cruisers, destroyers, and subs as well. Bandai released them only once, but some of the more popular subjects (including the Hood) have since been manufactured in China by Fuman and Eica.
Coming in at about five inches, Bandai's Hood is a small but reasonably accurate representation of the ship as she appeared during her battle with the Bismarck in May 1941. The kit consists of 24 parts and, like all the kits in the series, can be built either waterline or full hull using separate underwater hull parts molded in red. Surface detailing is good, with attractive plank detail on the main deck (but unfortunately not on the boat deck, which should have it too). The hull outline is accurate with good representation of the antitirpedo blisters, although the armor belts are missing and the bow is swept at a bit too much of an angle. Superstructure, mast, and funnel shapes are accurate, and they along with the main 15" guns and 4" HA guns all come as separate parts. Smaller components such as th UP projectors, pom-poms, and boats are molded directly to the decks... which at this tiny scale might not be such a bad approach. They look good once painted.
Simplifications and minor inaccuracies aside, this kit builds into an appealing little Hood. Too bad this and the other ships in this interesting series have become so hard to find.
(TR), review dated April 20, 2007.
GOOD. Part of Bandai's "1/2000 Navy Collection" issued in the1970s, the kit depicts the ship as she appeared late in World War Two following her bizarre "battleship/carrier" conversion with the after two 14" turrets replaced with a small flight deck. This kit builds into a small model, less than four inches in length. Not surprisingly, the 36 gray and red plastic parts represent a rather simplified rendition of this complex ship, but the finished effect is good. Major structures such as the hull, pagoda, funnel, and flight deck consist of very few parts but are correct in outline. The model can be built either waterline or full hull using the separate two-part underwater section molded in red. While there aren't any shafts or propellers, separate twin rudders are included, and the prominent antitorpedo blisters, skeg, and bilge keels are appropriately represented. Parts fit throughout is fine, though the upper/lower hull fit isn't perfect. Still, only a small amount of filler was required to adjust the tiny hull. The decks show overscale but attractive plank, nonslip surface, and ground tackle detail. Ship's boats are molded directly to the deck too, but look pretty good; the various types of launches, gigs and daihatsu are all clearly recognizeable. The flight deck aft is correct in outline and has, despite its being just over an inch length, a good deal of molded in detail including aircraft transport rails, turntables, an elevator, 25mm triples and 5"AA rocket launchers. No aircraft are provided, but this is not a problem as the converted Ise never actually embarked an airgroup anyway. The separate one piece 14" turrets are accurately shaped with appropriately sized barrels and, in the cases of turrets two and three, rangefinders and separate AA galleries. The six twin 5" DP mounts are molded directly to the decks with paired barrels as separate parts, and the numerous 25mm triple mounts and rocket launchers are molded to the decks. These simplified arrangements are actually fairly effective in is small scale, and the finished model looks convincing.
As with the other ships in the series, this kit is simple enough (and inexpensive when issued in the 1970s) to be built by a kid as a toy but at the same time accurate enough to be the basis of a more serious scale model.
(TR), review dated 8 June 2007.
GOOD.
This model appears to have been planned using the Revell 1/426 Arizona as a reference. Quite a few of the assemblies are similar, if not downright exactly like the smaller Revell version. There are approximately 105 pieces in this kit, and the hull is molded in two pieces, so the builder has a choice of making a full hull or a waterline version. The hull has certain parts of the decks molded in place, but the fore and aft decks are separate plates that fit in place. The fit is excellent, but there is a seam to contend with. The hull features waterline anti-torpedo bulges which line up accurately on the lower hull. The lower hull also features bilge keels.
All of the superstructure decks are made to stack like the Revell ship, and in doing so there is a noticeable horizontal seam in the center. This is because the bulkheads are molded halfway up on one deck, and on the next highest deck there is the second half of the lower bulkhead. Portholes and windows are formed when the decks are assembled. This wasn't a problem on the bridge assembly, but the mold was mismatched on the main deck, where the 02 deck and casemate gun emplacements reside. As a result, the portholes won't look correct unless the bulkheads are filled and sanded, or replaced altogether, which is what I did. The 02 deck is supposed to be steel, but Banner scribed planking on the deck. Again, careful scraping with the edge of an X-acto blade took care of that. The tripod masts are assembled in several pieces. But be careful because the legs and platforms must all be assembled carefully, or they will easily become out of alignment.
The armament consists of the main 14" guns, 5" guns, and what appears to be 20mm AA guns. The 14" guns fit rather well in the turret, and if the modeler is careful, each barrel will move up and down independent of the other. However there are no blast bags. The 5" guns are 2 pieces, the barrel and the platform. The platform is well detailed and these guns assemble rather easily. The 20mm guns are one piece and have minimal detail.
There are 2 aircraft catapults, one for the no. 3 turret and one for the stern. They are very basic, with no detail. The OS2U Kingfishers are also very minimally detailed, with grossly oversized recessed panel details. The wings are too pointy. However, with a little work they can be OK.
A small decal set is provided which has the stern name "Arizona" in black, waterline markings, flags, and insignia for the Kingfishers. The box art shows a light gray ship, but the box is labeled USS Arizona, December 7, 1941. At that time, the ship was painted in Measure 1 overall dark gray. The ship's name would also be painted the same color, so you won't need the name decal.
Overall this is not a difficult kit to assemble, and for the most part, fits together very well. Tom's Modelworks makes a photoetched brass set specifically for this model. It comes with all the details like cranes, catapults, ladders, and railings. Do yourself a favor and buy this set, rather than trying to bend generic railing sets to fit. This set has all the stanchions properly spaced, and is quite easy to work with.
(RD) Review dated 15 September 2001.
Editor's Note: Possibly re-issued by Trumpeter. It seems to have been re-issued by Banner in 2009.
GENERAL COMMENTS: I don't know that much about Battlefleet Models, but they seem to be out of business at this writing. (2021) They seem to have been active during the 2010s. They seemed to specialize in 1/350 and 1/700 resin kits of naval auxiliaries. (DRW)
| Alchiba | Algonquin | Barge Set II | Capella | Cherokee | Hog Islander | Kriegsmarine Supply/Repair Barge | Tamaroa |
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review) Looks like it is very cleanly cast, and they obviously used good references.
(DRW), review dated 21 Nov 2021.
Editor's Note: Seems to be a close relative of the Battlefleet Cherokee. (DRW)
Blue Ridge Models
4167 E First St
Blue Ridge, GA 30513
Tel: +1 706 946 1120
Fax: +1 706 946 1121
Check out their web site (DRW)
Editor's Notes: The following kits are presumably closely related:
Editor's Notes: The proposed Arsenal Ship.
Editor's Notes: This kit is presumably closely related to the Tennessee.
Editor's Notes:
Reissue of the Skywave/Midship Models plastic kits with a selection of detail parts, including photoetch frets and laser-cut wooden deck.
The following kits are presumably closely related:
EXCELLENT. Resin kit depicts Growler in final configuration. Very clean castings. Missile bay is split lengthwise with separate top, allowing full detail of missile compartment with nicely-detailed photoetch and resin parts. Regulus missiles may be depicted stowed or deployed for launch.
(JMP), review dated 9 March 2017.
Editor's Notes: See notes under Alaska-class, above
EXCELLENT. An earlier effort with not quite the polish of later BRM kits, but still extremely good with cleanly-cast parts. Includes numbers and names for the entire class but varying degrees of modification may be required to depict other units. For SS-567 as built it is an easy from-the-box build.
(JMP), review dated 9 March 2017.
EXCELLENT. Very nice castings that require little cleanup. Can be built in guided missile configuration or as special-operations submarine with "DSRV trainer" on the stern. Excellent detail throughout.
(JMP), review dated 9 March 2017.
Editor's Notes: See notes under New Mexico-class, below
Editor's Notes: The following kits are presumably closely related:
Editor's Notes: See notes under Montana-class, below. This kit seems to have portrayed the ship in the 1960s, with Regulus misiles. As of 2015, it is discontinued.
Editor's Notes: See notes under Montana-class, below. This kit seems to be a 20" gun variant.
Editor's Notes: See notes under Montana-class, below. This kit seems to be a 20" gun variant.
Editor's Notes: See notes under Indiana-class, above
Reissue of the Skywave/Midship Models plastic kits with a selection of detail parts, including photoetch frets and laser-cut wooden deck.
Editor's Notes: See notes under New Mexico-class, below
Editor's Notes: The following kits are presumably closely related:
Each one is a variant.
Editor's Notes: The following kits are presumably closely related:
Each one is a variant.
Editor's Notes: Possibly a re-issue of the Midship Models Nevada, reviewed by Bill Swan. The following kits are presumably closely related:
Editor's Notes: See notes under Montana-class, above. This kit seems to have portrayed the ship in the 1991, with Tomahawk misiles. As of 2015, it is discontinued.
Editor's Notes: Possibly a re-issue of the Midship Models New Mexico, reviewed by Bill Swan. The following kits are presumably closely related:
Editor's Notes: Plastic kit. Presumably related to the Skywave kit. The following kits are presumably closely related:
Editor's Notes: See notes under Montana-class, above. This kit seems to be a 18" gun variant.
Editor's Notes: See notes under Montana-class, above. This kit seems to be a 18" gun variant.
Editor's Notes: See notes under Nevada-class, above
Editor's Notes: See notes under Indiana-class, above
Editor's Notes: Possibly a re-issue of the Classic Warships St. Louis Kit
Editor's Notes: Portrays the ship in her late-war configuration. The following kits are presumably closely related:
Yes, the West Virginia was a Colorado-class, but Colorados and Tennessees were close relatives, and the West Virginia even got a similar wartime refit.
Editor's Notes: Plastic kit. Presumably related to the Skywave kit. See notes under New York-class, above
EXCELLENT. Kit of the never-completed supercarrier at the heart of the 1949 controversy over strategic airpower, based on best available material. Beautiful castings. One-piece waterline hull casting with hangar deck, and one-piece flight deck with positionable elevators. Bridge can be positioned raised or lowered. A nice selection of aircraft (AJ Savage, XF10F, XF5U, and the Douglas 1186), very nice decals, and excellent photoetch. Extensive instructions leave no real guesswork.
(JMP), review dated 9 March 2017.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review) I've seen one of these in the box, and I agree with every word that Jodie says.
(DRW), review dated 9 March 2017.
Editor's Notes: Possibly a re-issue of the Classic Warships Ward kit
Editor's Notes: This kit is presumably closely related to the Tennessee. Portrays the ship in her late-war configuration. Yes, the West Virginia was a Colorado-class, but Colorados and Tennessees were close relatives, and the West Virginia even got a similar wartime refit. It could be a re-issue of the Classic Warships West Virginia.
I'm not sure when Blue Water Navy began operations, but they were certainly in business during most of the 1990s. They closed in December 2003. Most of their assets were purchased by Yankee Modelworks.
At last word, Blue Ridge Models had their molds.
Special thanks to Tom Dougherty, for reviewing so many of BWN's submarines. (DRW)
MB Models was owned by Mike Bishop. mbishop446@aol.com. Their address was:
MB Models / Blue Water Navy
622 Old Trolley Road Unit 112
Summerville, South Carolina 29485
(843) 821-3558
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is a multimedia kit which consists of resin, white metal, brass rod and brass photo etch parts. The hull is cast in two parts divided at the waterline to offer the builder the option of full hull or waterline. Clunk! that was the sound of the bottom going in the trash can as I only build waterline, sorry, full hull fans, you won't hear any more about the bottom.
The upper hull is cleanly cast with good surface detail that incorporates elements of the lower superstructure. The bottom of this casting will need some light sanding to be completely flat. There is very little overpour on this kits hull pieces. All the other parts both resin and white metal, are virtually flash free and highly detailed. The resin parts will require some vigorous sanding to remove overpour but less than other kits that I have seen from this maker (or YMW). There were no incomplete or miscast parts. The white metal parts will require only light cleanup before use.
The photo etch fret included is very complete and includes in addition to the usual parts the 20 mm battery and a full set of highly detailed railings. Except for decals this kit includes everything you will need to complete this model.
This is a great kit for the first time resin builder. It is very detailed, well molded, with no obvious flaws and not too complicated in structure. You will not need to buy any other supplementary parts and that keeps the ultimate cost down (except for the decals). The experienced modeler will be able to produce an exemplary model.
Directions:: very clear and specific combination of English text, photos and diagrams. Painting instructions are also included in text format.
Packaging: clearly marked, sturdy cardboard box with a photo of the finished model as the box art. Hull is wrapped in bubble wrap. Small parts are bagged and the box was then filled with crumpled newspaper.
(WJS), review dated 21 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942. (DRW)
GOOD. When I originally bought this kit, it was when the company was Blue Water Navy. The kit is very nicely molded, with no bubbles to fill in. None. Typical of BWN/YKM's quality. There is a pour plug that needs to be ground off, which is fairly normal for a resin kit. Just be careful not to gouge the hull.
The pattern of floodholes matches photos of early Akula I boats running on the surface. The Improved Akula and Akula II boats have a different pattern of flood holes and the distinctive Kolos non-acoustical sensor suite. These early pictures probably were the only ones available when the kit was originally made, and so there are some items that need modifying to make the model more like an Akula I. First is the addition of a sea water scoop on each side of the aft hull, which I made out of layers of sheet styrene. The type of scoop on the Akula has a flat, half-ellipse shape to it, so it's fairly easy to fabricate. There are now some photos of Akulas in dry dock on the internet, so you can see the scoops and the fact that the bow is slightly more blunt than it is in the YKM kit. I elected not to try reshaping the bow. The propeller needs to be extended further aft with a short length of styrene tubing. The rest of the model is very detailed, seems quite accurate and crisp. The flood holes seem to be aligned correctly.
I painted mine PS scale black and added some white striping on a couple of places where I saw it in photos.
If you want a nice, sleek-looking example of Soviet submarine architecture before the fall of the Empire, the YKM kit can still be made into a good representation of the early Akula I.
For Improved Akula or Akula II you'd need to look at the Polar Bear or Alanger kit.
(CM), review dated 21 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Re-issued by Yankee Model Works, below.
GOOD.A 1:350 scale resin kit, with photoetch and white metal parts, includes decals.
The Soviet Navy's Alfa submarines (designated as Project 705, LIRA) are the source of endless fascination. These submarines had titanium hulls and liquid metal (lead-bismuth) reactors, giving them unparalleled speed (> 40 kts) and diving depth (approx 3000 ft). Alas, they were noisy and very difficult to maintain, and all are scrapped.
The BWN kit was brought out prior to the extensive information now available on these submarines, using the early 1990s Greg Sharpe drawings. Thus, the prominent water scoop for reactor cooling along the hull near the engineering spaces is absent, as are the two auxiliary propulsors near the tips of the stern planes. There are several details on the topside of the kit that need addressing. The rescue buoy immediately abaft the sail is a bit too prominent (high), as is the raised hatch toward the stern. The sail needs to gradually taper downward toward the rear, and does not have the pronounced bend at the rear of the kit sail. The six torpedo tubes are represented as slightly raised circles, correct in shape and placement, but should be scribed, not raised. Use them as a template for scribing, then sand down. Minor discrepancies with limber holes are also noted. Probably due to the kit's issuance prior to authoritative information, the stern tapers to a too narrow stem near the propeller. Much better than the DML/Dragon styrene kits of the Alfa class.
(TD), review dated 15 November 2003.
GOOD. The kit depicts the USS Atlanta during her short operational life. My kit was an older BWN casting with a four piece hull. Amazingly I managed to get all four pieces together and they all fit well enough that only a bit of putty and wet sanding was needed. The kit was well cast with very few pinholes and no major defects. The one drawback to BWN designed castings is they have large pour plugs. It took me several kits to develop good methods to remove them easily. The smaller resin parts were well cast with a few scattered pinholes to fix. The white metal parts were very good with just a little flash and mold seams to clean up, about as much work as cleaning up plastic parts. The PE is very good but not as finely etched as GMM, WEM or Lion Roar. The instructions were good in their day but suffer from being based on photos that have been Xeroxed a few too many times.
(RWS), Review dated 17 August 2007.
Editor's Notes: This kit, or at least closely related variants of it, has been issued as:
This kit has been re-issued by Yankee Model Works..
EXCELLENT. This kit has an interesting history. Designed by John Ficklin, it was one of the very first mass marketed resin model ship kits (in fact it was the second, after Ficklin's excellent Oliver Hazard Perry class frigate). Originally sold under the Blue Water Navy label, which was MB Models' line of ships, it was later produced by Gulfstream (kit #GS-8004) and by Iron Shipwright (kit # 4-123). The Gulfstream and Iron Shipwright versions appeared with one piece full hulls cast in gray resin. The Iron Shipwright also offered a redesigned photoetch sheet.
The kit reviewed here is the original Blue Water Navy release which had a two part full hull split along the waterline with white metal funnels, props, weapons, and assorted bits plus photoetch railing and other details. The kit is very complete, lacking only a piece of wire for the simple pole mast and yard. Construction is straightforward, requiring only mating of the hull halves (for the full hull option) and attachment of the various white metal and photoetched brass parts. The hull parts are cleanly cast in tan resin with effective portholes, hatches, ventilators, and other detail. The white metal parts (funnels, large ventilators, weapons, spotlight, boats, and propeller brackets) are well cast with a level of detail appropriate for this simple ship. The photoetch fret contains the safety railing, ladders, davits, oars, helm, compass, engine order telegraph, as well as the anchor, propellers, and rudder. I especially liked the extensive awning supports provided with the rails, which make it easy to depict the canvas awnings so often seen on these ships. I also liked the brass representation of the engine room skylights, which can be displayed either open or closed. Measuring only 81/2 inches this is not a large model, but the end result with all that railing and awning detail is pleasingly complex rendition of this historically notable ship.
(TR) Review dated 22 March 2007.
Editor's Notes: This kit, or at least closely related variants of it, has been issued by:
Porter class DD.
FAIR. (based on In Box Review)
Note: The molds for this kit were acquired by Yankee ModelWorks and the kit is sold as Balch #35103. Many of these molds were cleaned up and reworked by YMW, I don’t know is this has been, I hope so as this is not one of BWN’s better efforts. This kit represents Balch in 1942 fit. If you want and earlier version of a Porter Class check out the YMW Porter #35102 in 1938 fit.
Kit Parts: This is a resin model with white metal and photo etched brass for details. The hull is cast in two parts divided at the waterline so that a full hull or waterline model can be built from this kit. I don’t built full hull so, thunk, there goes the lower hull and all the bits that go with it into the trash. The upper hull is molded with the lower superstructure and funnels in place on the main deck. There are no portholes or plated over portholes in the hull, in fact the hull is pretty much featureless. The deckhouses are crisp and cleanly molded. I wish I could say the same for the main deck itself. There are tool marks in several places that will be difficult to remove. The bollards are just rectangles on the deck edges and my kit had large chips along the waterline. The rest of the resin parts were OK. They will require the usual cleanup. Be careful with the upper superstructure alignment when trimming as this is a problem area. The white metal parts were surprisingly clean and sharp. A nice touch is the way the life rafts are molded as rings to which a PE part is attached as netting on the bottom. The PE, as expected on an older kit is not relief etched but it is quite extensive and well executed. You should not need any extra PE for this kit. However, you will need brass rod for the masts and some chain for the anchors as well as a few bits of plastic stock here and there. There were no decals in my kit. I would also recommend brass main battery barrels for this kit as white metal barrels just don’t cut it.
Directions: Excellent high quality black and white drawings that show all parts placement. A surprise in a kit of this vintage.
Packaging: thick, heavy white cardboard box that had the hull pieces wrapped in bubble and the resin and white metal parts bagged.
Unless the kit has been improved by YMW I wouldn’t go with this unless you were really desperate for a mid war Porter Class ship.
(WJS), review dated 19 September 2011.
EXCELLENT. A resin kit in 1:350 with white metal and brass photoetch parts.
The US Navy's first attempt at building a Fleet Submarine, a sub with the range and speed to operate with the surface fleet. The three large submarines of the B class (Bass, Bonita, and Barracuda) were singularly unsuccessful experiments. They suffered from poor performance and sea keeping, and were soon sidelined. More practical designs superseded the B class, eventually leading to the Gato class.
The large BWN hull captures the unique shape of these unusual submarines. The numerous limber holes and deck details are all crisply rendered. A pour plug must be removed from the keel with files and sandpaper, taking care not to damage the adjacent bilge keel. The prominent bow anchor is rendered in white metal, as is the gun and fore and aft radio antenna masts. A nice photoetch sheet with railings, control surfaces and propellers is provided. Can be built into a very nice model of this unusual class of submarines. Very good kit for a more experienced modeler.
(TD), review dated 16 November 2003.
Winston Churchill is the specific ship for this model.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT This kit is a 1:350 scale resin kit with white metal and photoetch parts.
The Los Angeles class (688) of nuclear attack submarines represents the largest class of American SSNs built, with a total of 55 units built. The submarines up to SSN-718 (USS Honolulu) were built to the original design, with sail mounted planes and no VLS missile tubes. The next 8 ships had the 12 VLS tubes in the bow, but retained the sail planes. Starting with USS San Juan (SSN 751), the subs had retractable bow planes in place of sail planes, along with the bow VLS tubes. These also received a special propeller (with a ring attached to the blade tips) and a set of anhedral fins that had countermeasure dispensers at the tips.
The BWN kit emphasizes the long hull (360 ft) and small sail of this class of submarines. A large pour plug must be removed from the hull bottom by filing and sanding. The later versions of the kit come with beautifully scribed in VLS hatches that cover the bow VLS tubes. Unlike the Dragon/DML USS Hampton kit, the VLS hatches on this kit are in the correct configuration. The only minor blooper is the misplaced forward ballast tank vent, moved to accommodate the VLS installation. If you want an early, non VLS hull, merely fill the scribed lines in with putty and sand smooth. The towed array fairing on the portside comes complete with a double track for the topside safety lines. The stern features the four raised "zincs" (paint these pale white) at 45 degrees off the cruciform control surfaces . The rudder and stern planes are quite accurate, and the vertical "fins" found on the DML Dallas kit are missing, as they should be! You get both sail mounted planes and bow planes, so again you can choose the version. Note the bow planes are much smaller than the sail planes (because they are farther from the CG of the ship, and have a greater effect). Use the 7 bladed "scythe" propeller for all versions. For the later 688s (San Juan onward), you will have to scratchbuild the anhedrals and the ring for the propeller. Several research drawings are available that render these details. This is an excellent model of this very important class of submarines, and much superior to the available versions in styrene.
(TD), review dated 15 November 2003.
GOOD. There are two Farenholt kits, I built the 1942 version for the really wild camouflage scheme. Well cast resin parts with a two piece hull. The hull seam only required a little putty and sanding. Very few pinholes in the resin parts. The white metal parts were well cast with only minor clean up needed. The PE is good but is not as fine as GMM or WEM. The instructions were pretty bad since they were a few too many generations old in the Xerox copying game. The unique camouflage really needs a good drawing or set of photos.
(RWS), Review dated 17 August 2007.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is a multimedia kit consisting of resin, plastic, brass rod, white metal and photo etch parts. There were no incomplete or miscast parts in my kit. All parts have excellent surface detail and little to no flash. The hull is cast in two parts divided at the waterline to offer the builder a choice of full hull or waterline versions. The bottom in my kit went straight into the garbage can as I only build waterline.
The upper hull is cleanly cast and highly detailed. It incorporates elements of the superstructure. The bottom of the upper hull has a slight overpour which will take a few minutes to sand flat. (I take a shallow baking dish, put some wet/dry sandpaper in the bottom and cover it with water to eliminate resin dust while sanding) You will need to do this also for the smaller resin parts to eliminate the overpour on the bottoms of some of the parts like the rest of the superstructure.
The white metal parts are also highly detailed and will require very little preparation before use. The photo etch parts are excellent and include tons of parts to detail this ship.
Everything you need to complete this model is included except decals. This is a very worthwhile kit that is suitable for the novice resin builder and the expert.
Directions:: very clear and specific combination of English text, photos and line drawings. Painting instructions are also included in text format.
Packaging: clearly marked, sturdy cardboard box with a photo of the finished model as the box art. Hull is wrapped in bubble wrap. Small parts are bagged and the box was then filled with foam peanuts.
(WJS), review dated 21 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1945. (DRW)
GOOD. Another really old kit with a four peice hull. Good to very good casting of the resin parts with very few pinholes to fix. Good white metal parts requiring little clean up. Good PE. This kit had a bit of differential shrinkage in the hull parts leaving the lower hull 1/8" short and slight width mismatch along the armor belt. I opted for a good fit at the stern and elected to butt the two lower hull parts tight then sawed the first 2.5" of lower bow free and lined it up for length then filled the gap with resin. The width fix was as easy as sanding the armor belt thinner and facing it with styrene sheet. The kit had survived a few moves and the bilge keels had to be replaced due to damage but that was my fault, not a defect in the kit. The kit supplies brass rod for the tripods, yards and prop shafts with a cut to length specified for each part on the instructions. That's also about the only good comment I can make about the instructions. Mine were copies of copies of copies of copies of copies, which is not a good thing for photo based instructions. BWN also had an annoying habit of providing a full set of instructions for the first kit of a class then adding a set of so-so ship specific instructions for different ships of the class.
(RWS), Review dated 17 August 2007.
Editor's Note: See notes under Northampton-class.
GOOD/VERY GOOD. (based on in box review)
Notes: as far as I can tell the entire kit contents are exactly the same as the Atlanta kit issued by Blue Water Navy #35029.
These ships were also called super destroyers for a time as well as their light cruiser designation.
Juneau was sunk by the Japanese during the naval actions around Guadalcanal in late 1942. When she went down five brothers of the Sullivan family were lost with her.
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit which also contains white metal and photo etched brass detail parts. You will need brass rod or tube to complete the masts and a decal set for the ship's number. The hull of my kit came in two pieces split at the waterline for the modeler's choice of full hull or waterline. Earlier kits came in four parts. This is a huge improvement. THUUUNKK!!! The sound you just “heard” was the lower half of the hull going in the garbage as I only build waterline, so nothing more about that. The upper hull is cast up to the main deck only. No superstructure parts are cast with it as is the usual practice with most resin kits. Presumably, this allows BWN to include different superstructure parts for other members of the class without having to have two or more hull masters. The hull was cleanly cast with no pinholes, sinkholes, dropouts, bubbles or other deformations present. The limited amount of deck detail on these vessels was cast in or will be added from the other parts in the kit. The superstructure was cast in two large parts with the smaller parts to be added from the bags of resin or white metal parts. The metal parts will require minor cleanup similar to that necessary on plastic parts. All the resin parts, including the upper hull will have to be sanded down to remove their pour plugs. This will require quite a bit of time and effort as some of the residue from the pour is thick. (I would suggest that you take a piece of wet/dry sandpaper, put it in a shallow baking dish, cover with water and sand in a circular motion. This will keep the nasty resin dust down and under control as well as make the chore go quicker and more pleasantly). However, the surface detail is good and only the bottoms of the pieces will require cleanup. I’m not crazy about the gun barrels being cast in white metal as it is difficult to make them look right. I would suggest that a set of after market turned brass or aluminum barrels be purchased to improve the look of the finished model. The photo etch from BWN has always been excellent and the etch in this kit is no exception. 3D effect is achieved on a number of parts on this fret. My past experience with PE from BWN is that it is easy to work with and fits the way it is supposed to, there appears to be no difference with the PE in this kit. This is a very good model of the subject ship (especially if the subject ship is identical to the Atlanta).
Directions:: eight pages of text, in English, and photos of the completed model or in a few cases partially completed model giving location tips on the various parts. Having worked with this system before I can say that you should be prepared for some confusion as to parts placement. A good set of ship photos would be helpful. You will need information on how the ship was painted anyway as I don't find the instructions to be helpful on that score either. There were no rigging instructions included. The main point is that the directions in my kit were for Atlanta, the only mention of the Juneau was in a photo credit on the last page, presumably of the photo on the box top.
Packaging: sturdy white cardboard box with a photo of the completed model on the cover (which, btw, contradicts the painting instructions in the directions in the kit). Small parts bagged and wrapped in bubble wrap along with the hull pieces, with foam peanuts in the voids in the box.
Additional note: the Atlanta class kits are now made and marketed by Yankee Modelworks so some content may now differ, please check with your dealer or the manufacturer directly.
(WJS), review dated 13 March 2008.
Editor's Notes:See notes under Atlanta-class.
GOOD. A resin kit in 1:350 scale with white metal and brass photoetch.
The Project 877 (PALTUS) submarine is a modern diesel SS used in both the Russian Navy, a well as exported (China, India, Iran and other countries). The design is an Albacore shaped hull, with a large sail.
The kit has a resin pour at the keel to remove by sanding. Overall, a good representation of the hull, although torpedo tubes are not represented. The emergency buoys on the upper deck casing are a bit too prominent (raised), and the upper deck casing itself should probably be a bit more raised. A very simple resin kit to assemble, and overall very good.
(TD), review dated 15 November 2003.
Editor's Note: This kit represents a Project 877 boat (NATO code name "Kilo") and not the related Project 636 boat. (Also NATO code name "Kilo") (DRW)
Editor's Note: As at Coral Sea, with option for 8" guns.
This is one big model. (JP)
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: multimedia kit which includes resin, white metal, various brass rod stock, and photo etched brass detail parts. There are no decals included with this kit.
The hull is a four piece casting. There are two parts to the lower hull (two thunks in the garbage can for me as I only build waterline) and two parts for the upper hull. Upper and lower hull parts are divided at the waterline. Putting these together is going to require a lot of care to get right, especially when working with super glue. The bottom parts of the upper hull pieces are fairly flat out of the box but I suggest that your want to make sure they are dead flat so as not to cause any alignment problems when mating the fore and aft sections.
Surface detail is excellent and flawless. There are no incomplete or miscast elements to the hull pieces. There are no pinholes, air bubbles or any of the other casting flaws sometimes found on large scale resin kits. The other resin pieces have excellent surface detail and no readily apparent errors. You will need to sand off some overpour on these pieces but not too much.
The numerous white metal pieces are also well cast and highly detailed. Minor cleanup will be needed there as well but no more so than an injection molded kit. This is such a great kit that I think you will want to treat yourself to a set of turned brass after market main battery gun barrels rather than use the white metal ones provided.
The PE on three separate frets is detailed and very complete. While it is not of the newest "3d" type etching it is still very good. BWN PE is, in my experience always 1st class stuff and easy to work with. I really love this kit and think it is a terrific addition to any model collection.
The only problem with its construction stems from the potential difficulties associated with mating the various hull pieces, although I certainly would not let that stop me from buying this kit. (and it didn't!)
Directions:: a little disappointing, they consist of text and accompanying photos of various subassemblies. This is put together in a somewhat confusing manner to which is added the additional confusion of having to read two sets together as the general directions are for the Northampton so you must put the notes for Louisville along side them to catch the differences in the construction of those ships. They are not as complete as other sets of BWN directions I have seen, most notably, USS Samuel B. Roberts #35004.
Packaging: well marked, sturdy cardboard box with a photo of the completed ship model as the box art. All parts are securely bagged and/or wrapped in bubble wrap.
Note: this kit ( like all the former BWN kits ) is now produced and marketed by Yankee Modelworks. The hull is now molded in just two pieces not four, divided at the waterline.
(WJS), review dated 23 February 2006.
Editor's Note: See also notes under Northampton-class.
Editor's Notes: This kit, or at least closely related variants of it, has been issued as:
This kit has been re-issued by Yankee Model Works..
Editor's Notes: See notes under Atlanta-class.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: multimedia kit with resin, white metal and photo etch brass detail parts. There are no decals included in this kit. All parts are beautifully cast and virtually flash free. The hull is a three piece casting. The lower hull is one piece (easy to throw away, as I only do waterline) The upper hull is cast in two pieces and can accommodate different long or short hull members of the class. The large upper hull piece incorporates most of the superstructure. A small piece of the stern must be attached to complete the upper hull. A full length bit of overpour must be sanded off the bottom of each upper hull piece (as well as the top of the lower hull if it weren't in the garbage). Hull detail is very sharp. The only resin pieces in the kit are the hull sections. The other parts are white metal or PE. The white metal parts are well detailed and cleanly cast. Very little prep is needed to clean them up.
The PE set is gorgeous. Everything is well marked and nicely detailed. Everything you need for the complicated mast structure of this kit is included and done in such a way as to make the construction of the masts easy. Railings are excellent and include deck details like the chocks. The large fret even includes life preservers and 23 crew figures.
Whether or not you are a beginner at resin kits or an old hand this kit is a great purchase. I feel that it is easier to build than similar injection molded kits in this scale and will turn out a better result by far.
The only difficult part of assembly will be the marriage of hull sections without producing visible seams. The only negative to the kit is the lack of decals for the deck warning areas but they are available in the after market.
Directions:: excellent step by step directions in exploded view diagram format. Painting instructions and decal placement (even though there were none included) are provided as well. A brief history of the Perry class ships, technical data, a photo of the completed model and line drawings are also included.
Packaging: well marked, sturdy cardboard box with a photo of the completed ship model as the box art. All parts are securely bagged and/or wrapped in bubble wrap.
Note: this kit ( like all the former BWN kits ) is now produced and marketed by Yankee Modelworks.
(WJS), review dated 23 February 2006.
EXCELLENT. Resin kit with photoetch and white metal in 1:350 scale, no decals provided.
The S-boats were acquired by the US Navy just after WWI, and served into the early days of WWII. These small submarines were based partly on some of the lessons of the German U-boats in the first World War. The submarines were built to several different plans.
The BWN S-boat kit is a crisp rendition of an Electric Boat built submarine, the S-26, with exquisite detail in the limber holes, deck and conning tower. The hull has a resin pour plug that must be carefully sanded off, and minimal assembly is required. In this scale, the finished model is slightly over 7 inches in length. A real gem when carefully assembled and painted. Excellent kit!
(TD), review dated 16 November 2003.
EXCELLENT. Resin kit in 1:350 scale with white metal and brass photoetch parts.
The Seawolf class was designed in the 1980s as a large, advanced attack submarine to counter the Soviet Navy's increasingly sophisticated submarine fleet. With the end of the Cold War, the class, originally to number 29 ships, was reduced to 3. Although displacing over 9000 tons submerged, Seawolf is deeper diving and considerably faster than the predecessor Los Angeles (688) class of 6,900 tons displacment. The third ship of the class, the USS Jimmy Carter, had been greatly modified and lengthened to perform "Special Projects" operations.
The BWN kit is a very nice rendition of the USS Seawolf, although it could also be built up as the USS Connecticut. The resin hull has a large resin pour plug that must be filed and sanded to remove. The hull emphasizes the beam (40 ft) of these submarines, much increased over the preceding 688 class of 33 ft. The hull has delicate scribing of topside features, as well as scribing of the 8 torpedo tubes. Along each side of the hull are the three fairings for the Wide Aperture Array sonar. The sail has the streamlined front fairing, and various access hatches are nicely rendered. The most challenging part of this kit is the assembly of the pumpjet propulsor. The pumpjet replaces a conventional propeller, and has both moving impellers and stationary stators inside the shroud. This device is quieter and more efficient than a conventional propeller. The kit provides photetch rotors and stators, along with guide holes for mounting. There is also a photo guide to this process. A resin shroud finishes off the pumpjet. The plans come complete with a beautiful Deep Sea Design docking plan drawing showing the topside, bottom, side, front and rear views of the submarine. Definitely a superb kit for the experienced modeler.
(TD), review dated 15 November 2003.
EXCELLENT. A 1:350 scale resin kit with white metal and brass photoetch fittings, no decals.
The Simon Bolivar is a late model Polaris/Poseidon submarine of the Benjamin Franklin class. These boats were 425 feet in length, and were among the last of the first generation of American SSBNs.
The kit features an impressive size resin hull. There is a resin pour plug that must be removed by file and sanding, and the ballast tank grates are represented along the bottom of the hull. The topside details (missile tube doors, hatches, safety railing, etc.) are all nicely scribed in, and a towed array fairing runs down the starboard side and along the outboard sternplane. A minor complaint is that no torpedo tube openings (there should be four) are scribed into the bow. A nice touch is that the retractable bow sonar is modeled in the extended position. As with all BWN models, the modeler must provide a base for display. I mounted mine on an oak base with keel blocks. It builds into a very handsome model with minimal effort- an excellent kit! (TD), review dated 16 November 2003.
EXCELLENT. A 1:350 scale resin kit with white metal parts and photoetch brass. No decals provided.
In the late 1950s, the US Navy married the nuclear reactor to the Albacore "teardrop" hull, and got the Skipjack class of submarines. These little attack submarines exceeded 30 kts. when submerged, an unheard of performance just 15 years after the end of WWII. Only 6 of these speedy attack subs were built, and one, USS Scorpion, was lost with all hands in 1968. Although fast, they were also loud, and the evolution was toward quietness and depth (Thresher class).
The BWN rendering in resin of Skipjack is a thing of beauty. A pour plug along the keel must be carefully removed to leave a very graceful and accurate rendition of these submarines. The sail has nicely detailed scribing, as does the deck. The only minor gripes are the six torpedo tubes (correct configuration) are raised, as are the deadlights high up on the sail. These can be used as scribing guides and then sanded away. As built, these submarines had two sets of deadlights, with an additional set about a third of the way down the sail, just below the whistle. Later, the lower deadlights were removed. The sail itself is the correct, non-tapered shape as viewed from the bow, and does not narrow near the top as does the Aurora/Monogram/Revell Skipjack kits. The font of the sail also has the nice sharp leading edge, not the rounded blunt edge of the styrene kits. The Skipjacks were built with a 5 bladed propeller, and later received the new 7 bladed, scythe-shaped propeller (to abate the propeller noise known as "blade rate"). BWN provides both propellers, so it's your choice. This kit is rated excellent!
(TD), review dated 15 November 2003.
Kingfisher / Catapult version.
EXCELLENT. A resin kit in 1:350 scale with photoetch and white metal parts. No decals.
The Sturgeon class submarines were the follow on to the Thresher/Permit (SSN 593) class of SSNs, and attempted to address some of the shortcomings of the 593 class. The most prominent difference is the larger and taller sail on the Sturgeon class. The class was viewed as very successful, with 37 hulls built.
The BWN rendition is of the earlier "short hull" Sturgeons, which were 292 ft in length (SSN 678-684 and 687 were "long hulls" of 302 ft). The resin hull has a prominent pour plug that must be sanded off. The four torpedo tubes are represented by raised, elongated areas on either side of the hull (torpedo tubes exited from the hull sides as the bow was occupied with sonar). The model has a prominent fairing along the port side that represents a towed array tube; the modeler must complete this installation which extends over and is braced to the port stern plane. The early Sturgeons "as built" did not have the towed array tube. Detail and scribing are very good on the deck. Missing (and easily fabricated from thin styrene strip) are the four sacrificial "zincs" that are between the stern planes and rudder. Use the 7 bladed propeller for this kit. Overall a very good (and at this moment, the only one in this scale on the market) rendition of this very important class of US nuclear attack submarines.
(TD), review dated 15 November 2003.
Editor's Note: See also Allan Plumb's comments under Yankee Model Works' reissue, below.
GOOD. (based on in-box review) Only a few small, easily filled bubbles in the resin, toward the bottom. Photo-etched brass parts are very fine indeed, and BWN gives you both a 5 blade and a 7 blade propeller. (nice touch, Mike!) Towed-array tube seems a bit big. Details are not perfect, but certainly better than I could scratchbuild. I compared the length of the kit to some figures in Friedman's "US submarines Since 1945: An Illustrated Design History", (ISBN 1-55750-260-9) and either the kit is not "truly" 1/350 scale, or it's about a quarter inch short. Given the shrinkage inherent in resin, I suspect the former. The master for the mold was probably a true 1/350. Still, it passes my "eyeball" test: It looks like the Thresher to me. One caveat: this kit does not include instructions in the conventional sense. You will need references to accurately place the control surfaces. This kit does not include decals. This kit dates back to about 1993. This kit is definitely not for beginners, but can be built into something very nice. (DRW)
GOOD. A 1:350 scale resin kit with white metal and photoetch brass, no decals.
The Thresher was the first of the US Navy's new deep diving (1300 ft test depth), quiet submarines, featuring rafted machinery spaces. Her loss on a test dive in April, 1963 was a severe blow to the Navy submarine program. The program was resumed (now designated Permit class (SSN 594) after Thresher's loss). Eventually a total of 14 were built of varying lengths and different sail heights. One, USS Jack, had twin contra-rotating propellers.
The kit represents Thresher herself. The hull has a pour plug that must be carefully removed. Topside scribing of details is very good, whereas the rest of the hull is bereft of details outside of the raised detail torpedo tubes. Unfortunately, the sail is too large to represent Thresher. The early Thresher/Permits were distinguished by their very small sails (to cut hydrodynamic drag). Also, the prominent portside towed array fairing that runs most of the hull was never fitted to Thresher, and the Permits received this modification late in their service lives. There is no indication in the instructions as to how to carry the towed array deploy tube out over the port stern planes. With these caveats in mind and a bit of research, one can with a bit of work make this kit into a very decent Permit class submarine model.
(TD), review dated 15 November 2003.
GOOD. A 1:350 scale model in resin, with brass photoetch and white metal parts.
This is a resin kit of the advanced, high speed German "electroboot" developed during the waning days of WWII.
The kit is a good starter kit for someone new to resin models. The hull has a large pour plug along the keel that must be removed by careful sanding. Detail is very good, although the Balkon sonar under the bow does not have the hydrophones represented. Minor details such as capstan and cleat placements are off in placement, and the conning tower external access doors are also off slightly off in location. Overall, a very good model.
(TD), review dated 15 November 2003.
Editor's Notes: Apparently, Casadio released this kit as:
It has been re-issued by:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Re-issued by
(DRW)Editor's Notes: Apparently, Casadio released this kit as:
It has been re-issued by:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: See notes under King George V-class Also read Bert Atwood's review of the Revell re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Re-issued by
(DRW)Editor's Note: See notes under Bismarck-class
Editor's Note: Re-issued by
Editor's Notes: Apparently, Casadio released this kit as:
It has been re-issued by:
Editor's Notes: Re-issued by
For comparison, check out these kits:
(DRW)
Apparently, they sold the resin model business some time back, (i.e. before 2015) and at last word, Blue Ridge Models had their molds.
Steve has shifted to publishing a series of reference books on ships and ship classes.
Their address was:
CLASSIC WARSHIPS
P.O. Box 57591
Tucson, AZ 85732
Phone/FAX: (520) 748-2992
Check out their web site.
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's NoteFor comparison, check out these kits:
VERY GOOD. Very well cast resin parts with very little tearout and very few pinholes. The hull halves have no pour plugs per se and only require a quick sanding to dress the gluing faces. The hull size and shape does cause a differential shrinkage problem but it is easy to fix by cutting the first 2-3" off the lower hull bow. Line up the stern of the hull halves and glue them together, later glue the lower hull bow piece in place and fill the small gap with resin. Other than a slight width mismatch at the armor belt the hull halves were the same width. I fixed the armor belt with a little putty and sanding. One thing I am not fond of with CW kits is the wafer method of casting the smaller resin parts, I prefer a pour plug to cut off since it much more positive and requires less sanding. The splinter shields for the 5"-25's are a particular pain since you not only have to sand away the wafer but also cut portions of some of them away. The white metal parts were well cast and required minor clean up. The PE is very good. The instructions are hand drawn but very clear and easy to follow. With a little surgery and sometimes different AA guns, the kit can be modelled as any of the class for the early war period from late 1941 through mid-1943.
(RWS), Review dated 18 August 2007.
Editor's Note: This is apparently a re-issue of a Gulfstream kit.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review) The California is in her 1941, Pearl Harbor fit. The original kit was released a few years ago by BWN and then by Iron Shipwright. Last year, the master pattern ended up in Steve's hands. However, Steve did not just re-release the kit, he revamped it to add more detail and make it more accurate.
The kit comes with separate hull and superstructure parts that will make painting much easier. He also added plating detail to the hull which really improves the appearance of the kit. The California had 3"/50 AA guns, however, these did not show up in the BWN or IS releases. However, the CW release includes beautifully executed replicas of these weapons. He replaced the 12 foot rangefinder on the uppermost bridge platform with the more correct CXAM radar, faithfully reproduced in photo-etch and white-metal. The kit also includes a set of range-finder clocks as photo-etched parts, which the California had until Oct. 1941. Finally, Steve did a wonderful job redoing the instructions. He has added pages and pages of detailed instruction on the kit assembly, a far cry from the four-pager that came with the original kit issues.
The resin casting is up to Steve's usually high standards and will require only a couple hours of prep, not bad for a kit this large (~21" long by ~3.5" wide) and this old. I am hard-pressed to find any air bubbles or noticable blemishes in the resin castings. In addition, the white metal parts are all excellent and won't require much clean-up. As a matter of fact, there is noexcess on the white metal and all that is required will be to remove the pouring plugs. It among the best white metal I have seen. As a final note, I did a parts count and did not find any part missing from the kit and every one of them is usable. This eliminates the need to call for replacement parts.
Kudos Steve. (KS)
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: although Classic Warships is no longer producing kits I believe that the molds for this kit and their other 1/350 models are in the hands of Yankee Modelworks, the modeler should check their catalog listings to confirm.
Kit Parts: this is a resin model with cast white metal parts, a decal sheet with extra numbers and photo etched detail parts included. There is, however, no brass rod or tubing included to fabricate the yards, etc., so the modeler must supply his own. Let me begin by saying that this is a very nice kit indeed. I don't model full hull ships so I really don't pay attention to how well the bottom piece fits the upper hull, all I can say is that both pieces were dead flat. The upper hull was cast up to the forecastle. Superstructure parts are all cast separately in order to be able to reflect differences between this kit and the Tennessee also made by Classic Warships at this time. My example had some bubbles coming up through the sides of the hull that were just visible, a couple actually broke the surface and will have to be filled with putty. There was also a lot of extraneous resin along the waterline that will require quite a bit of sanding to remove. Hull and deck detail was excellent with finely engraved planking lines where appropriate. On my kit some of the bollards were damaged during shipping or storage on the forecastle deck but are easily replaced with plastic rod stock. There was no warping or malformed parts to be found in the rest of the kit either. The remaining resin parts were cast on wafers which will be somewhat tedious to remove but less so than heavy overpour. Those parts have good surface detail as well. They have no flash or extraneous blobs of resin to remove other than the carrier wafer on the bottoms of the parts. Gun barrels are included in the white metal castings which overall are pretty good, with little to no flash and good surface detail. I am not, however crazy about the main battery barrels being cast in this way. The modeler would be well advised to seek out brass or aluminum turned barrels on the after market. One thing to note about the resin cast pieces is the quality and detail of the ship's boats. They are gorgeous little models in themselves.
If this kit is being made by Yankee Modelworks by all means seek it out as it is really very good.
Directions:: consist of a multi page booklet with text (in English) and hand drawn illustrations for the assembly process along with a parts inventory and small line drawings of the ship. The directions are actually quite good. Included with the PE frets is a very large plan view/line drawing of the ship that can assist in at least of rudimentary rigging plan. Very nicely done drawings and directions, unusual for a resin kit especially of this age.
Another interesting note about the directions in this kit is that the painting instructions call out the controversial 5N blue color scheme for vertical surfaces instead of the conventional 5D dark gray. The historical record of evidence for the 5N scheme is still unsettled.
Packaging: large heavy plain white cardboard box with no decoration. Small parts bagged in plastic, the hull and voids filled with crushed up newspapers.
(WJS), review dated 17 March 2008.
with cagemast
VERY GOOD. Very well cast resin parts with a minimal amount of tearout and very few pinholes. See my comments for the Brooklyn kit about the wafer casting style. The hull does have some differential shrinkage and the fix is the same as for Brooklyn, in fact the hulls are identical as the St. Louis class was simply an upgunned Brooklyn for the 5" DP guns. Very well cast white metal parts that required minimal clean up. Very good PE, the same fret as for the Brooklyn kit. The instructions are hand drawn but very clear and easy to follow. The kit can be modelled as either ship of the class from late 1941 through mid-1943 with minor surgery and AA upgrades.
(RWS), Review dated 18 August 2007.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
w/ photo-etch
{CW026} lower hull kit
conversion - fits Tamiya Missouri.
w/ photo-etch
lower hull kit {CW022} (also for Yukikaze)
{CWO48} lower hull kit
OK I am favorably disposed to any 1/700 WW1 ship, so I looked forward to the Classic Warship Lion with great anticipation. The kit's shortcomings are minor with the exception of the beam, a very major problem indeed. I am not a nitpicker and am quite willing to fix minor errors, but the undersize beam is unacceptable. Reluctantly, I cannot recommend this kit. (RM)
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: the molds for the Classic Warships 1/700 kits would now appear to be in the hands of Midship Models which has plans to reissue the catalog of Classic Warships kits. A product announcement I have seen of late indicates that the Nevada class kits may soon be forthcoming in retooled reissues. We can only hope that this is so as the kits were good when issued and if retooled could be spectacular.
Kit Parts: this is a resin model that includes both cast white metal and photo etch detail parts. There was no brass rod included for fabricating the masts in my kit so rod, tube or plastic stock will be needed to fabricate the tripods for the masts as well as other things such as yards, etc. The resin parts are all cast in dark yellow. The one piece hull which includes parts of the superstructure is well cast and very detailed. Planking detail is finely engraved. There were no malformations, dropouts, pinholes or miscast parts to the hull and superstructure. Actually, given the age of this kit I was quite surprised at how well the detail and casting was executed. My only criticism of the hull is that at the waterline it was a bit sloppy, with quite a bit of flash to be sanded off, certainly not a critical flaw, but an annoying one given the quality of the rest of the casting. The other resin parts have surface detail that runs the gamut from acceptable to excellent. There is, however, a fair amount of flash to be removed from the smaller parts. The cast metal parts, on the other hand, are well done with virtually no flash at all. The photo etch parts provided include platforms, catapults, crane and the antenna spars(?) for the forward observation/spotting structure. There is no railing included. A nice kit that can still be picked up from time to time on the after market, perhaps soon as a reissue from Midship Models.
Directions:: consist of two double sided pages. Page 1 is a set of general instructions for working with resin models written in English. Page 2, the reverse, consists of written instructions (in English) with dimensions for the mast structures and several line drawings of the assembly process for the forward superstructure and some rough sketches of the PE folds needed. Page 3 contains a brief history, statistics and generalized painting instructions. Page 4 contains two line drawings, one view of the starboard side and one overhead view. The directions, although four pages long are pretty basic, photos and plans would be really helpful to the modeler.
Packaging: heavy white cardboard box, with no decoration or markings, small parts in bags, hull in bubble wrap, box voids filled with peanuts.
(WJS), review dated 17 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Re-issued by Midship Models in 2008.. (Reviewed by Bill Swan)
GOOD. Well cast resin parts but my example was from molds nearing the end of their life so there was a bit of tearout, not excessive however. Very few pinholes. See my comments for the Brooklyn kit for generic comments on wafer cast parts. As usual with large resin hulls there was a bit of differential shrinkage but the simple fix of cutting off the lower bow and filling the small gap with resin works well. The armor belt did not quite line up at the ends and had a width mismatch. I ground off the upper hull portion since it was wider and after gluing the hull together aaded a strip of styrene to the upper hull then faced the entire belt with .010" thick styrene sheet. Well cast white metal parts required minimal clean up. Good PE. The instructions are hand drawn but very clear and easy to follow. The kit provides optional parts for several other ships of the class.
(RWS), Review dated 18 August 2007.
GOOD/VERY GOOD (based on in box review)
Note: although Classic Warships is no longer producing kits I believe that the molds for this kit and their other 1/350 models are in the hands of Yankee Modelworks, the modeler should check their catalog listings to confirm.
Kit Parts: this is a resin model with cast white metal parts, a decal sheet with extra numbers and photo etched detail parts included. There is, however, no brass rod or tubing included to fabricate the masts, yards, etc., so the modeler must supply his own. Let me begin by saying that this is a very nice kit indeed. I don't model full hull ships so I really don't pay attention to how well the bottom piece fits the upper hull, all I can say is that both pieces were dead flat with no overpour whatsoever to remove. The upper hull was cast as one with much of the superstructure of the kit. My example had some bubbles coming up through the sides of the hull that were just visible, a couple actually broke the surface and will have to be filled with putty. There was also a bit of extraneous resin along the waterline that was thicker than just flash but easily removed nonetheless. Hull and deck detail was excellent with finely engraved planking lines where appropriate. Gun shields in a couple of places were a little thick but on a par with an injection molded kit. A couple of bollards were pulled right out of the deck when the hull left the mold but are easily replaced with plastic rod stock. There was no warping or malformed parts to be find in the rest of the kit either. The remaining resin parts were cast on wafers which will be somewhat tedious to remove but less so than heavy overpour. Those parts have good surface detail as well. The two part main battery turrets will be a little tricky to get aligned. Gun barrels are included in the white metal castings which are pretty good, with little to no flash and good surface detail. I am not, however crazy about the main battery barrels being cast in this way. The modeler would be well advised to seek out brass or aluminum turned barrels on the after market. The photo etch is also very nicely done and includes two frets, one of railings and the other of lattice masts, platforms, radar, catapults, cranes, ladders and other delicate structures too light for resin or cast metal. The parts listed include some for alternative vessels in the class at the time appropriate.
Directions:: consist of a multi page booklet with text (in English) and hand drawn illustrations for the assembly process along with a parts inventory and small line drawings of the ship. The directions are actually quite good. Included with the PE frets is a very large plan view/line drawing of the ship that can assist in at least of rudimentary rigging plan. Very nicely done drawings and directions, unusual for a resin kit especially of this age.
Packaging: large heavy plain white cardboard box with no decoration. Small parts bagged in plastic, the hull and voids filled with crushed up newspapers.
(WJS), review dated 17 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Re-issued by Midship Models in 2008.. (Reviewed by Bill Swan)
{CWO51} lower hull kit
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1943. Re-issued by Midship Models in 2008. . (Reviewed by Bill Swan)
For comparison, check out these kits:
FAIR: This kit builds a fairly nice model of the Sims class
destroyers. The kit represents the USS Hughes as she was outfitted at
Midway. The only critiques that I could make of the kit are that the
bridge structure is a scale 3 feet too long. The fix was to cut the
resin in two, sand a little material off and then epoxy the parts back
together, care is required not to take off too much. The only other
item is the modeling of the 02 level forward. The 20mm platforms, and
lower superstructure are molded on a base of resin; when attached to
the hull molding this arrangement creates a step that scales out to be
about 2 vertical feet not the smooth roundover into the deck the design
requires. I cut the 20mm platforms and the superstructure off and glued
them directly to the hull molding to create a better look. (BR)
w/ photo-etch
{CW024} lower hull kit
VERY GOOD: Nice casting, white metal parts are well done. Resin blocks are a bit of a hassle to sand off, do it carefully! No masts or 20mm guns are provided, add aftermarket parts and brass rod, addittional photo etch will make it stand out. (JC)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these other New Orleans class resin kits:
w/ photo-etch
w/ photoetch
EXCELLENT - CN is a Chinese company of which I know nothing about other than this kit. The Alfa class subs (now out of commission) were an attempt to build a super-fast (45 kts) nuclear sub capable of sortying for area defense. They are quite small compared to other Russian subs (30 man crew). This kit comes with an extensive set of motor and magnetic parts making it capable of not only moving but submerging. However, there are alternate parts included to make it a purely static kit. As you can imagine, there are few parts, but surface detail is extensive, there is little flash, parts are molded crisply, and go together very well. Drain holes on both the sides and bottom of the hull are cut out. Decal sheet includes set for a Dallas class attack sub, so there must be at least another CN kit out there somewhere. This is a must-have for anyone building the Trumpeter Sovremenny, since its the only other 1/200 Russian kit available, will go together quickly, and can fit in the same display case as the DDG. (DH)
EXCELLENT. Converts to static model like CN's Alfa class. Appears to be exact DML 1/350 remold but with more detail. The VLS missile doors are cast molded in the top hull, with the option to build 688 improved with bow mounted planes and 2 extra stern fin rudders.Comes with decals, instructions are in Chinese with numbered illustrations. Box is completely in Chinese, even address.
I purchased this off of the internet. The seller bought these in a Chinese hobby store while on vacation from Hawaii. A great large scale addition to any model sub collection! Apparently this is not in the U.S. markets, yet. (BMP)
EXCELLENT: Motorized, converts to a static display. Appears to be a remold of DML's 1/350 scale Dallas with VLS doors molded in to the top of the hull, bow mounted hydroplanes, Seawolf style sail with 2 extra aft stern rudder fins and jet pump shroud that goes over the propeller. Also included are bay doors that run along each side of the hull which apparently depict the SEAL advanced delivery system. Instructions are in Chinese with numbered illustrations. Entire box is in Chinese, even address, comes with decals.
Purchased off the internet from a Hawaiian who bought this in a Chinese hobby shop while vacationing in China. Apparently this is not YET in U.S markets. Nice large scale addition to any large scale sub collection. (BMP)
Editor's note: The Virginia class was still building when this model was released, so any model of it must be speculative. (JP)
This company started in the early 1990s. At first, they made 1/35 scale resin
tanks. Their first ship kit, Peter Velikiy, was
released around 1995. The have since expanded their line considerably, with
a large number of Soviet/Cold War era ships, and numerous Russian and British
ships from the Steel Navy and World War I eras.
Combrig website
For more information, please contact Combrig email.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: cleanly molded, flash free resin parts with no photo-etch or metal parts included. Many small parts that are well crafted will be challenging to prepare and build, especially the starfish. One piece hull with finely detailed deck fixtures and planking. Excellent painting skills will be needed to preserve all of this fine detail. Hull scales out correctly as to length and beam. Although masts and yards are provided in resin the stress of rigging with the complex scheme appropriate will require substitution with metal rod or tube.
Directions:: two double sided pages in Russian; page one consists of a photo inventory of kit parts, painting instructions using WEM Colourcoats paints, nicely detailed line drawings from side and overhead views, a brief history, and basic statistics. Page two contains exploded views of subassemblies and main assembly that are far superior to the type of diagrams provided in previous kits. A basic rigging plan could be executed from a review of the line drawings if you were so inclined.
Packaging: the usual flimsy folded white paper box with a foam wrap around the hull to minimize breakage, no peanuts, small parts jumbled up in a baggy, breakage a real possibility. Box top has grainy black and white photo of actual ship as box art.
Another unique subject long sought after.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship in 1918.
For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD/EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts, Directions and Packaging: reboxed Duncan, Combrig kit #70265 .
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
EXCELLENT. (based on in box review)
Notes: Box art claims the ship to be in 1901 configuration, however, contents appear to be exactly the same as the Vengeance (Combrig #70448). While this may be accurate to the degree noticeable in 700 scale I recommend vigorous pursuit of one’s references before beginning construction.
As to all other remarks regarding this kit please see my review of the Vengeance.
(WJS), review dated 7 September 2011.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: resin model with PE fret. One piece resin hull that is flawless, highly detailed and beautifully engraved. PE fret contains spars, boat chocks, catapult, grids, anchor chain and other numerous small parts. Decals for range clocks also included. All other resin parts are cast on ultra thin wafer and pour plugs or stubs. All are highly detailed. No flash is found on any of these parts and all are easily removed from their respective casting agents. If you wish to rig this ship you would be well advised to substitute metal rod or tubing for the provided resin masts. Very nice kit of a magnificent cruiser.
Directions:: one double sided page with a brief history,basic statistics and beautiful line drawings of side and overhead views. The reverse side has a photo inventory/parts list and an exploded view assembly diagram adequate to build the kit.
Packaging: flimsy folded paper box with photo of actual ship as box art. Small parts are bagged and box is crammed with peanuts to minimize movement.
(WJS), review dated 6 February 2006.
FAIR.. (based on in-box review)
Historical Note: this battleship was one of those odd shallow draft vessels intended for coastal defense. Nonetheless, it took part in the battle of Tsushima in the Russo Japanese War and was undamaged in the battle. However, it was forced to surrender to the Japanese with the remnants of the Russian fleet afterward. She was renamed by the Japanese Okinoshima.
Kit Parts, Directions and Packaging: see Combrig #70129 Adm. Ushakov.
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: See notes under Ushakov Class.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. The model box depicts her during the war whereas the legend states that the kit is of her in 1928. I believe that the kit is of her around 1941ish the kits instructions are particularly confusing when it comes to the seaplane turntable it should actually slide over the deckhouse (into the cut in the turntable) don't be tempted to place it on the end of the deckhouse aft of the third funnel as the catapult will foul on the funnel itself. I re-built the masts using stretched sprue as the supplied resin parts were a bit flimsy. I can recommend the WEM County class photo etch (originally for HMS Sussex but the bits still fit) I also bought WEM's 4" gun turrets to replace those in the kit they are much more accurate than those supplied. Hull and deck detail are excellent with even the knuckle in the bow accurately represented.
Overall a good kit Combrig's instructions are a bit vague as always but she builds up into a nice representation you will however need a PE fret to make this kit look its best. (AMS), review dated 31 August 2005
Editor's Note: Presumably, a variant of Nikolayev. (Berkut B/Kara-class)
EXCELLENT. (based on In Box Review)
Note: with all kits that state a specific date that the kit is supposed to represent I would caution the modeler to verify with period photographs or plans before accepting the kit maker's claim. This kit purports to show HMS Benbow in 1914. The photo, line drawings and directions all omit anti-torpedo net and boom assemblies which may not be correct for the claimed time period, I am not sure if this ship was so equipped in 1914. I was not able to find any photographs of Benbow from 1914 during a brief internet search but would like to raise the issue so that the prospective modeler will think to check it out before starting.
Kit Parts:This is a resin kit that includes a fret of brass photo etch of ship specific parts. There are no railings included. The photo etch fret includes such items as boat chocks, platform braces, platforms, grilles, chains and mast hardware. The hull is a single piece casting that goes up to the forecastle deck. The casting is simply outstanding. The planking detail is so fine as to be almost invisible! The modeler will have to exercise the greatest care in painting so as not to lose this exquisite detail to heavy coats of paint. The remaining resin parts are beautifully cast with no flash and easily removed from the casting plugs, pours or wafers. Beware that this kit is loaded with very tiny parts used to detail the deck and will require a great deal of patience to properly glue and place.
This is not simply a rebox of the Iron Duke kit. Alternate parts to differentiate the superstructure and masts are supplied in this kit.
As with all resin kits and most plastic ones you really should use brass rod or tubing to construct the masts and yards. You can do it with the parts provided but you will not be able to rig the vessel as those parts will be too delicate. If you are like me and don't rig the ships ‘cause your team of trained spiders ran away to the circus, the delicacy of the parts is only an issue if you are a klutz. I would suggest that before attempting this kit that you have a couple of resin kits under your belt. That being said, any competent modeler can make this kit into a stunning example of the art.
Directions:: four single sided pages with page one containing line drawings of the starboard side and overhead views, a brief history (in Russian) and ship statistics. Page two is a photo copy of a picture of the kit contents for inventory purposes. Pages three and four consist of exploded view line drawings of the assembly process that seems adequate for the purpose.
Packaging: not the usual flimsy folded paper box but rather a flimsy thin cardboard box with a picture of the actual ship on the box top. The small parts are all bagged together in a small plastic bag. The rest of the box is filled with foam peanuts to keep the parts from rattling about too much.
(WJS), review dated 17 March 2008.
Editor's Note: See also notes under Iron Duke Class"
Editor's Note: Presumably, Combrig's Borodino-class pre-dreadnought kits are all closely related.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: Kit is declared to be as built in 1893. The photograph provided shows the ship without anti-torpedo defenses which is probably the way he was delivered to the HSF. If you want to build this vessel in full 19th century or early pre-war rig you will need to fabricate parts for the anti-torpedo netting, shelves, booms and boom rigging.
Kit Parts: This is a resin model that includes a photo etch fret for inclined ladders, vertical ladders, anchor chain, platform braces and ship’s boats platform braces. Resin parts are molded in medium gray resin. All resin parts are crisply molded with no flash, excepting of course, those parts molded onto a thin sheet of resin (mostly platforms and superstructure decks). Light sanding will free these pieces from their carrier. There is a plethora of tiny, delicate resin cast parts in this kit. Great care will be needed to keep from breaking them when you remove them from their casting plugs. The one piece hull is a truly gorgeous casting. This tiny hull is just crammed full of detail. While planking is etched into the deck in continuous lines without butt ends the rest of the detail is marvelous. Combrig has cast into the deck numerous hatches and coal scuttles typical of vessels of this period. While these will be a bear to paint it is great to see them on a kit this small. Masts and yards are cast in resin and should be replaced with brass rod or steel tubing if you wish to rig this ship. If not, they are perfectly fine the way they are.
Directions: typical Combrig consisting of two one-sided black and white sheets. The first has a starboard side drawing of the ship with a pattern of basic rigging and an overhead drawing view showing placement of the ship’s boats. It also contains a history of the class and some statistics on armament and equipment. The second page consists of a fuzzy photographic inventory of parts and line drawings showing parts placement. While the drawings themselves are clear they are also rudimentary. You can build the kit with them but prior experience in this era ship would be very valuable.
Packaging: flimsy white paper folded into a box with a fuzzy black and white photo of the ship on the top. Hull is loose in the box, small parts are bagged and a bunch of foam peanuts are added to hinder rattling around. Once again, miraculously, no parts in my kit were broken.
This is an excellent kit for the HSF fan but some experience in resin would be a big plus.
(WJS), review dated 23 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: This kit, or close variants of it, has been issued as:
GOOD/EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Britiannia is a King Edward VII class battleship so shares an almost identical set of parts and directions with Combrig kit #70289. Different parts and assembly instructions are included for the variances in funnel and mast assemblys. All remarks same as King Edward VII model.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship in 1906.
EXCELLENT. (based on in box review)
Notes and caveats: box art states that the kit represents Caesar in 1898 and features a black and white photo of the ship in World War I gray. Before painting this ship be sure to check photographic references to match actual configuration to your choice of color scheme. Almost all of the parts in this kit are the same as those found in the Majestic, Combrig #70441, however, a few parts for the stack vents, main mast and foremast are different and conform to the slightly different line drawing provided.
KIT PARTS: This is an all resin model with no photo etch included. All parts are molded in Combrig’s typical light gray resin. The hull and lower superstructure are molded in a single beautiful casting with only the tiniest bits of flash along the waterline that will disappear with a couple of swipes of the sanding stick. Deck detail is quite well rendered with finely engraved planking, however, there are no butt ends for the planks or coal scuttles that were prominent features on ships of this era. The skilled modeler can simulate these with drops of white glue or punched out plastic disks. The vast majority of modelers will probably not care one way or the other. Another nice feature of the deck detail is the well executed differentiation between the areas of wood and metal deck (including finely rendered texturing) under the sweep of the main battery guns.
The remaining parts are cast on a combination of stubs or sprues and a wafer for the decks. The parts are exquisitely rendered with little to no flash. Some of the tiny parts (and there are quite a few) will require great care to remove from their carriers without breaking. Davits for the ships boats are incredibly fine as are additional deck details and equipment. The barrels for the ships guns are also extremely well done and I don’t believe the additional purchase of brass barrels will be necessary. Ship’s boats, particularly the larger ones are very well done as are the many ventilators.
A significant omission should be noted for those modelers wanting to build the ship in pre-war or early war configurations: there are no parts included for the anti-torpedo nets, shelves and booms. As usual with resin kits the modeler is advised to have on hand a supply of brass or steel rod for rigging the masts. Plastic rod will do if no or simple rigging is intended.
DIRECTIONS: consist of two single sided sheets in black and white. All materials are in English. No painting instructions are noted. Sheet one contains a nice little canned history and discussion of the ship and its classmates as well as a brief armament and equipment list. The rest of the page contains two line drawings of the ship, one starboard profile and one overhead. You WILL need to reference these drawings to place the ships boats and the non-existent anti-torpedo equipment as well as to get a general idea of the complex rigging scheme on this vessel. You will need lots more than this if you want to rig the vessel accurately. Sheet two shows a parts breakdown, guide to cutting masts and yardarms and a exploded view line drawing of more or less where the included parts are supposed to go. This is typical of Combrig kits, they do not show assembly sequences.
PACKAGING: Typical flimsy white paper box with photocopied picture of the actual ship on the box top. Only small parts are bagged but foam peanuts were packed in my example to keep movement to a minimum. None of the parts in my kit were damaged, your mileage may vary.
This is not a kit for the beginning modeler. While the parts are molded to a high quality the omissions, rudimentary directions, lack of painting instructions and the fragile nature of resin as a medium require the modeler to be of an intermediate or high skill level.
(WJS), review dated 7 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: See also notes under Majestic-class.
EXCELLENT. (In-box review) Superb kit full of detail hull and deck detail is particularly good. Instructions are a great improvement on previous Combrig efforts.
Go get it before stocks sell out! Highly recommended.
(AMS), review dated 1 September 2005.
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Kronstadt. (Kresta II-class)
Editor's Note: Presumably, Frunze is similar.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: parts and assembly diagrams essentially the same as HMS Orion, Combrig kit #70259, as this is an Orion class battleship, however parts and diagrams are included for the differences in the aft superstructure.
All other remarks the same.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: This is a resin model with two frets of photo etch detail parts. The photo etch includes chains, braces, supports, platforms, ladders, stack grilles, boat chocks and some things so small I haven’t been able to figure them out yet! Resin parts are all molded in a medium gray. The hull is a one piece molding with incredible detail in the deck and hull sides. One of the more interesting details is the molded in stairwells going down into the lower level of the ship, nicely done! There is no planking detail as French ships of this period did not have planked decks. The other parts are molded on pour plugs and bars along with one sheet of ultra thin wafer. All parts appear to be easily removed from their carriers and/or plugs. The parts are all highly detailed and finely molded with no bubbles, pinholes, malformations or flash. This is a truly beautiful kit of a rare subject. I would not recommend it for the first time resin builder because of the really tiny parts and fine detail, however, this is truly a treat for the more experienced builder.
Directions:: consist of two single sided pages. Page 1 has a starboard side line drawing and an overhead view line drawing. The drawings are very detailed and include rigging views. The basic ship statistics are also on this page. All text is in Russian. Page 2 includes a photo inventory of the parts and exploded view drawings of the assembly process. Using the locator points on the hull and these drawings the builder may have sufficient direction to build this kit. The line drawings on page 1 may allow the builder to set up a rudimentary rigging scheme.
Painting Note: the painting for this ship is going to be something of a research puzzle for the builder. Sources of this information are scarce, especially if the modeler does not speak French.
Packaging: the usual flimsy white folded paper box with a picture of the actual ship on the top as box art. Small parts are all put into one bag with the hull floating around the bottom of the box sharing it with some foam packing peanuts. The directions are then folded on top to keep the contents from moving about (none too successfully).
(WJS), review dated 12 March 2008.
Editor's Notes: Portrays the ship in 1911.
Close variants of this kit have been issued as:
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
It is a great time to be a ship modeler. Never in my wildest dreams would I have thought that a model would become available of a French World War 1 era pre-dreadnought in 1/350 scale, or any large scale for that matter! Let’s just say that Combrig scores big with the subject matter.
Parts: this is a resin model with photo etched brass parts. The resin parts, in medium gray, are cleanly cast with little to no flash. Surface detail is, I suspect, somewhat minimal but I am not exactly sure what additional detail is appropriate. I haven’t been able to find any close up photos of the superstructure yet. Some parts are cast on thin wafers and others have large plugs to saw off with a razor saw. None appear to be difficult to remove from the wafers or plugs. There doesn’t appear to be any warping or malformed parts either. I can’t help but feel that this is an upscaling of their 1/700 scale offering (Combrig kit no. 70407). The photo etch does not include railings which you will have to buy on the after market. I am only aware of a generic pre-dreadnought railing set from Atlantic Models as of this writing. What the PE provided does include is a plethora of platforms, platform supports and boat chocks. There are also anchor chains and crane rigging supports as well as inclined ladders/railing and without. There are also a number of tiny parts that I haven’t figured out yet. The brass is of the hard variety.
Let’s get back to the resin for a moment. The hull is hollow cast rather than solid like most resin kits. It bears a striking resemblance to the old one piece battleship hulls from the big four Japanese manufacturers in the 1970s. That being said some deck equipment is cast in, others have locator markings to ease placement of the resin and photo etch parts. The decks of these ships were covered in scuttles or hatches for coaling. There are faint outlines on the deck to represent them although, it doesn’t seem like enough of them. The decks of Danton were steel and were not planked which is correctly represented in the kit. My kit was not cut exactly at the waterline but rather has about a quarter inch of material that needs to be removed along an incised line. I suggest cross bracing of the hull to avoid the possibility of warping.
Directions: always a weak spot in resin kits and there is no glory here. The directions consist of two double sided pages of line drawings. The first page has starboard side and overhead views with a rudimentary rigging plan. The page of drawings also hosts vital statistics and a canned history of the vessel (all in Russian). The flip side is a photographic inventory of the box contents. Page two’s front consists of three panels of line drawings showing placement of main and secondary batteries, assembly and placement of cranes and placement of the main ship’s boats. The reverse basically shows everything else. Placement of many of the parts is somewhat vague to say the least. There are no painting instructions.
Packaging: thin cardboard box with a black and white photo of the ship on the top. PE is bagged and slipped under an inner cardboard box that contains bags of resin parts. The bags are loose in the box and rattle around inside. Miraculously none of them were broken. The hull is loose in the box also but surrounded with foam peanuts.
I confess to being somewhat disappointed in this kit as I had high expectations because of many of this company’s outstanding 1/700 offerings. This one was not done by the A team. Nonetheless I believe it will build into a decent model of a truly rare subject. It is not for the first time resin builder, although lots of expertise isn’t needed. A couple of resin projects before this one will be enough preparation.
(WJS), review dated 24 January 2012.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: cleanly molded, flash free resin parts with a single sheet of photo-etch consisting of decks, platforms, grates, supports, anchor chains and misc. small parts but no railings. Lots of very tiny and/or delicate parts, may be difficult for some to remove from pour stubs or to attach to the model. Overall kit is very nicely finished with terrific detail. Single piece hull with superb deck fixtures and planking. Will require careful painting to preserve all this rich detail. Hull scaled out correctly in length and beam. Masts and yards provided in resin should be replaced with metal rods or tubes if rigging this ship for added strength.
Directions:: two double sided pages in English; page one consists of a photo inventory of kit parts, painting instructions using WEM Colourcoats paints, nicely detailed line drawings from side and overhead views, a brief history, basic statistics and an additional photo of the actual ship. Page two contains exploded views of subassemblies and main assembly that are far superior to the type of diagrams provided in previous kits. A basic rigging plan could be executed from a review of the line drawings if you were so inclined.
Packaging: the usual flimsy folded white paper box with a few foam peanuts thrown in to attempt to minimize breakage. Box top has grainy black and white photo of actual ship as box art. Small parts all thrown into a single baggy that rattles around in the box.
Quality kit long needed in the marketplace.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship in 1906.
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Admiral Zozulya. (Project 1134/Kresta I Class)
GOOD/EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: all resin, no photo-etch or white metal parts, one piece hull with most of the superstructure incorporated. very detailed and cleanly molded with no discernable flash, sinkholes or pinholes. small parts on thick pour stubs and somewhat thick wafer for the deck pieces, promises to be more difficult to remove without damage than more recent offerings from Combrig. quite a few tiny parts so sharpen up those tweezers. Rigging will most certainly require changing out the resin masts and spars with metal rod or tubing, however, this won't be necessary if you decide to forgoe the pleasure of trying to outdo a spider and rig this ship. length at waterline dead on but beam is quite a bit too large and would be noticable if anyone else made a model of this class that was properly dimensioned and put it along side (like that is going to happen).
Directions:: the usual single sheet of double sided paper with detailed line drawings of side and overhead views accompanied by basic statistics, a brief history and painting directions, all in English on the one side and on the other a photo inventory of kit parts and exploded assembly plan. kit isn't complex enough for this to be a problem in building this model unless you want to rig it with the cloud of lines that this ship would normally have.
Packaging: the usual flimsy folded white paper box with a few foam peanuts thrown in to attempt to minimize breakage. Box top has grainy black and white photo of actual ship as box art. Small parts all thrown into a single baggy that rattles around in the box.
Nice kit but I am a little concerned about the beam dimensions.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Presumably, Russell, Montagu, and Albemarle, are similar.
Editor's Note: Presumably, a variant of the Sverdlov-Class kit. (Project 68bis)
EXCELLENT. (based on In Box Review)
Kit Parts, Directions and Packaging: see my review of Combrig #70403 HMS Marlborough as the kits appear to be identical.
(WJS), review dated 3 March 2008.
Editor's Note: See also notes under Iron Duke Class"
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: cleanly molded mostly flash free (some along the waterline of the hull) parts with a single sheet of photo-etch with a few needed small parts but no railings. Many tiny and delicate parts that will require extra skill to remove from the pour stubs and attach them to the model itself. Great detail on all parts, especially the one piece hull, very fine detail will challenge your painting skills to preserve the deck planking. Hull scales out with less than 2% deviation in length at the waterline and virtually right on for the beam. Should you wish to rig this ship with the complex scheme that is appropriate for it you should replace the supplied resin masts and yards with metal tube or rod.
Directions:: two double sided pages in English; page one consists of a photo inventory of kit parts, painting instructions using WEM Colourcoats paints, nicely detailed line drawings from side and overhead views, a brief history, and basic statistics. Page two contains exploded views of subassemblies and main assembly that are far superior to the type of diagrams provided in previous kits. A basic rigging plan could be executed from a review of the line drawings if you were so inclined.
Packaging: the usual flimsy folded white paper box with a foam wrap around the hull to minimize breakage, no peanuts, small parts in a jumbled up baggy, breakage real possibility. Box top has grainy black and white photo of actual ship as box art.
Unique subject matter long sought after.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship in 1906.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Please see my remarks for Combrig kit #70419, SMS Prinzregent Luitpold, as the kit contents are nearly identical. Changes in the superstructure from Luitpold are reflected in the parts content and directions.
(WJS), review dated 12 March 2008.
Editor's Note: See also notes under Kaiser Class
EXCELLENT, with a caveat. (based on in-box review)
Note: This kit is essentially the same as the Combrig #70196, Brandenburg. There is some differentiation in main and foremast platforms. All other remarks are the same with the exception of the directions. While the second sheet of the directions does reflect the platform differences it contains only a single blow up drawing of the assembly of the parts and inexplicably leaves out the placement of the boats and boat platform braces. It would be best to obtain a copy of the Brandenburg’s directions for this function. I believe they may be on line at Combrig’s site. The lack of placement directions for these braces will make this kit REALLY hard to finish. I don’t understand such an omission.
This is a serious fault in an otherwise excellent kit.
(WJS), review dated 23 September 2011.
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Grozny. (Kynda-class)
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Chapaev-Class. (Project 68)
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: this is a recently issued kit from this maker and shows just how good they can be. It also serves to illustrate that a low stock number does not mean an early issue kit.
Kit Parts: This is an all resin kit in medium gray. There is no photo etch included. You will need to supplement the kit parts with brass rod for the masts and yards as I think that the provided resin parts are too delicate. The one piece hull is very finely cast and molded with no defects whatsoever. It has good surface detail and finely engraved planking (no provision for the various coal chutes and other paraphernalia found on ships of this era). All other parts are well detailed and molded without flash or any readily observable defects. Davits are delicately detailed and molded. Ship's boats are also well detailed. Except for the boat deck the parts are cast on plugs and bars and are easily removed with a miniature razor saw. The boat deck is cast on a thin resin wafer which can be sanded or cut off. The parts are so small and delicate that I noted several broken from moving around in the box. A nicely done but tiny model.
Directions:: one double sided sheet that contains on the front ship statistics in Russian, a brief history (for a brief life) in English and Russian and two simplified line drawings, one starboard view the other an overhead view. There is additional text at the bottom right in Russian. The back side consists of a photographic parts inventory and a single drawing showing the assembly process. While this will be sufficient to assemble the parts included it won't help with anything else, like rigging or painting.
Packaging: as was said on Monty Python; "and now for something completely different." In this case it really is. The usual flimsy folded white paper box has been replaced with a cardboard box similar to those found in injection molded kits! Box top art is a black and white photocopied photo of the real ship. Small parts are in a plastic bag, the hull loose in the bottom surrounded by foam peanuts.
(WJS), review dated 14 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1894.
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit. Hull is a one piece casting in medium gray resin. It will require some cleanup along the waterline. Some detail cast into the hull is overscale. Aztec steps make their appearance. Deck is missing the longitudinal breaks between the planks peculiar to Russian dreadnoughts. These can be penciled in after painting the deck but you will need a lot of skill and patience to do so. The deck is also missing many of the hatches/coal scuttles shown in the overhead line drawings. I suppose you could simulate them with drops of white glue but it would be difficult to keep them uniform and in the right places. Other parts are cast in a variety of colors on a combination of wafers and pour stubs. They have good detail but have quite a bit of flash to be removed. You will need to fabricate upper masts, yards, booms flag staffs and torpedo net equipment (not to mention the actual rolled netting). This is a somewhat disappointing ship model that will require quite a bit of extra work to make it look right.
Directions:: typical Combrig, one double sided page which includes a photo parts inventory, exploded view assembly diagram, brief history with technical data (all in Russian) and painting instructions in English.
Packaging: the usual flimsy folded paper box with a photo of the actual ship as the box art. The hull is foam wrapped, the rest of the parts bagged but no packing material so everything rattles together.
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Apparently, the Gangut kit portrays the ship in 1914.
Presumably, Petropavlovsk is very similar, and Oktyabrskaya Revolutsia, and Parizhskaya Communa are related.
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Grozny. (Kynda-class)
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Please see my review and notes concerning Combrig kit #70419, SMS Prinzregent Luitpold, as the ships are of the same class and share the same characteristics if not the same parts. There are many differences between the kits that reflect the differences in the actual vessels. This is not a simple re-boxing of Prinzregent Luitpold as a sister ship. Interestingly, the photo chosen as the box top art would seem to indicate the time being 1913 and shows the ship clearly having torpedo nets, platforms and booms, yet the line drawings and directions do not.
(WJS), review dated 12 March 2008.
Editor's Note: See also notes under Kaiser Class
Editor's Notes: NATO code-name Kynda. Presumably, the following kits are closely related:
For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT. (based on in box review)
Notes and Caveats: This kit has identical parts to the Majestic, Combrig #70441. The only differences being in the artwork and canned history. Please see my remarks and review of that kit for details. In this scale minor differences between classmates may not appear to be significant but before building I advise checking references closely.
(WJS), review dated 7 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: See also notes under Majestic-class.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: with regard to the dates printed on the box tops and on the drawings in the directions of this and other Combrig kits the modeler needs to do some research before adopting that date as “Gospel”. One of the things that comes up with warships of this era is the use of anti-torpedo nets and booms. These booms would have cluttered up the sides of capital ships early in WW1 and were only discarded later in the war. If the modeler wishes to portray his kit at a specific date he needs to check on whether or not that ship had the nets and booms at the time portrayed. This, in many cases will take more than a casual trip to the internet. Many photos of WW1 vessels, especially the Central Powers ships are either not dated or incorrectly dated so, builder beware! I prefer, if at all possible, to model my ships without the booms and nets, personal preference.
The box top photo of the ship clearly shows the anti-torpedo nets, platforms and booms not present, however the line drawings but not the directions show them in place.
Kit Parts: This is a resin model with one fret of photo etch detail parts. The photo etch includes chains, braces, supports, platforms, ladders, stack grilles, davits, ship’s boats rudders and some parts that appear to be platforms for the anti-torpedo net stowage. There also appears to be some resin parts that may be the booms. The use of these parts is not referenced in the directions (but is noted in the line drawings ????) so placement is unknown. Resin parts are all molded in a medium gray. The hull is a one piece molding with incredible detail in the deck and hull sides. The planking detail on the deck is extremely fine and will require care in painting not to obscure. The other parts are molded on pour plugs and bars along with some sheets of ultra thin wafer. All parts appear to be easily removed from their carriers and/or plugs. The parts are all highly detailed and finely molded with no bubbles, pinholes, malformations or flash. This is a truly beautiful kit. I would not recommend it for the first time resin builder because of the really tiny parts and fine detail, however, this is a treat for the more experienced builder.
Directions:: consist of two single sided pages. Page 1 has a starboard side line drawing and an overhead view line drawing. The drawings are very detailed and include simplified rigging views. The basic ship statistics are also on this page as is a brief history of the ship. All text is in Russian. Page 2 includes a photo inventory of the parts and an exploded view drawing of the assembly process. Using the page 1 line drawings the builder may have sufficient direction to build this kit, some parts placement may be vague. The line drawings but not the assembly instructions note the use or placement of the anti-torpedo nets, platforms and booms. The line drawings on page 1 may allow the builder to set up a rudimentary rigging scheme. Directions in Combrig kits are not as good as some other manufacturers, but with care can be used successfully.
Packaging: the usual flimsy white folded paper box with a picture of the actual ship on the top as box art. Small parts are all put into one bag with the hull floating around the bottom of the box sharing it with some foam packing peanuts. The directions are then folded on top to keep the contents from moving about.
You may wish to compare this kit review to that of the H-P Models #G-011 SMS Oldenburg, another Helgoland Class ship.
(WJS), review dated 12 March 2008.
Editor's Notes: Portrays the ship in 1911. Variants have been issued as
For comparison, check out the following:
GOOD/EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: resin kit with included PE fret consisting of boat chocks, braces, cranes, chains, and other small detail parts. One piece resin hull with incorporated lower superstructure that is beautifully detailed and flawless. Other parts are on pour plugs and wafers that are easily removed. Very nice kit that is wonderfully detailed, especially amazing considering the tiny size of this ship. You may want to substitute metal rod or tubing for strength in the masts and spars to rig the ship in its appropriate cloud of lines.
Directions:: one double sided page consisting of line drawings of side and overhead views, a brief history and basic statistics, in Russian. The other side is a photo parts inventory and an exploded view assembly diagram that is clear and easy to use. You will need other references to rig this ship.
Packaging: flimsy folded paper box with photo of actual ship as box art. Small parts are bagged and box is crammed with peanuts to minimize movement.
(WJS), review dated 6 February 2006.
VERY GOOD-EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Notes and caveats: Box art states that the kit represents Hood in 1893 and features a black and white photo of the ship in Victorian livery in what appears to be in an all white or very light gray scheme. Before painting this ship be sure to check photographic references to match actual configuration to your choice of color scheme.
KIT PARTS: This is an all resin model with no photo etch included. All parts are molded in a very dark gray, not Combrig’s typical light gray resin. The hull and lower superstructure are molded in a single beautiful casting with only the tiniest bits of flash along the waterline that will disappear with a couple of swipes of the sanding stick. The extremely low freeboard of this class is readily apparent and well rendered. Deck detail is quite well rendered as well with finely engraved planking, however, there are no butt ends for the planks or coal scuttles that were prominent features on ships of this era. The skilled modeler can simulate these with drops of white glue or punched out plastic disks. The vast majority of modelers will probably not care one way or the other. Another nice feature of the hull/deck casting is the provision of locator holes for some of the additional deck detail, a feature not always found on Combrig kits.
The remaining parts are cast on a combination of stubs or sprues and a wafer for the decks. The wafer in this kit was quite thin but also quite warped so after removing the various decks it will be necessary for a quick dip in hot water to restore the original straight and level configuration (at least it is a technique that usually works for thin parts). The parts are exquisitely rendered with little to no flash. Some of the tiny parts (and there are quite a few) will require great care to remove from their carriers without breaking. Davits for the ships boats are incredibly fine as are additional deck details and equipment. The barrels for the ships guns are also extremely fine and I don’t believe the additional purchase of brass barrels will be necessary, unless of course you break them getting them off the stubs. Ship’s boats, particularly the larger ones are very well done as are the many ventilators.
A significant omission should be noted for those modelers wanting to build the ship in pre-war or early war configurations (VERY early war, as by August 1914 Hood was already on the disposal list and was used for various experiments): there are no parts included for the anti-torpedo nets or shelves, however, parts for the booms are provided. As usual with resin kits the modeler is advised to have on hand a supply of brass or steel rod for rigging the masts, the parts included for them being far too delicate (mine were pretty warped as well). A team of highly motivated, trained spiders are what is really needed to rig this tiny ship! Plastic rod will do if no or simple rigging is intended.
DIRECTIONS: consist of two single sided sheets in black and white. All materials are in English. No painting instructions are noted. Sheet one contains a nice little canned history and discussion of the ship and its classmates as well as a brief armament and equipment list. The rest of the page contains two line drawings of the ship, one starboard profile and one overhead. You WILL need to reference these drawings to place the ships boats and the non-existent anti-torpedo equipment as well as to get a general idea of the complex rigging scheme on this vessel. You will need lots more than this if you want to rig the vessel accurately. Sheet two shows a parts breakdown, guide to cutting masts and yardarms and a exploded view line drawing of more or less where the included parts are supposed to go. This is typical of Combrig kits, they do not show assembly sequences.
PACKAGING: Typical flimsy white paper box with photocopied picture of the actual ship on the box top. Only small parts are bagged but foam peanuts were packed in my example to keep movement to a minimum. None of the parts in my kit were damaged, your mileage may vary.
This is not a kit for the beginning modeler. While the parts are molded to a high quality the omissions, rudimentary directions, lack of painting instructions and the fragile nature of resin as a medium require the modeler to be of a intermediate or high skill level.
(WJS), review dated 7 September 2011.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts, Directions, Packaging and Production Notes, please see my remarks for Combrig #70226 RIN Slava. This is not however, a rebox of the same kit. There are significant differences between them that are reflected in the kit parts and directions.
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1904. See also notes under Borodino Class.
GOOD.. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts, Directions and Packaging same remarks as Combrig #70216, RIN Imp. Maria. Structural differences between this ship and the Maria are reflected in the kit parts and directions, so it is not an identical rebox of the Maria kit.
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: See notes under Imperatritza Maria-class.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Historical Note: This ship was a participant in the battle of Tsushima in the Russo Japanese War, suffered minor damage but subsequently surrendered to the Japanese forces and was renamed Iki.
Kit Parts: this is an all resin model molded in a khaki color. One piece hull incorporates lower superstructure and is nicely detailed. All other parts have good surface detail and no flash. Cast on ultra thin wafers and pour stubs the parts appear to be easy to remove. While all necessary parts to assemble the masts and yards are provided in resin it would be best to substitute metal rod or tubing for at least the upper masts and yards as well as the crane booms. Nice overall kit that will build into a satisfying model.
Directions:: standard one page double sided sheet typical of the later issue Combrig kits. They include a brief history ( in this case in English and Russian), basic statistics, painting instructions, parts inventory, line drawings and exploded view assembly diagram. If you carefully use the line drawings and diagram together you should have no difficulty with parts placement.
Packaging: typical flimsy folded paper box with a photo of the actual ship as the box art. Small parts are bagged and the box is filled with little foam peanuts.
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1891
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Historical Note: This class of ship was unique in that it was built with cage masts similar to the American practice at the time.
Kit Parts: This is a resin kit with a supplementary fret of photo etched detail parts. Resin parts are cast in a greenish-gray color. Very finely detailed one piece hull incorporates lower superstructure and is flawlessly cast. All other resin pieces are cast on a combination of very thin wafers and pour plugs or stubs. They have good surface detail and no flash. Care will have to be taken to avoid damaging some of these delicate parts from their casting medium, but no extraordinary effort will be needed. PE fret consists of platforms, starfish, braces, cranes, pulley assemblies, grills and cage masts. The kit features alternative mast assembly parts & instructions for cage or "military" masts. This is a very nice kit that I highly recommend.
Directions:: standard one page double sided sheet typical of the later issue Combrig kits. They include a brief history ( in this case in Russian), basic statistics, painting instructions, parts inventory, line drawings and exploded view assembly diagram. If you carefully use the line drawings and diagram together you should have no difficulty with parts placement.
Packaging: typical flimsy folded paper box with a photo of the actual ship as the box art. Small parts are bagged and the box is filled with little foam peanut
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1906.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts, Directions and Packaging same remarks as Combrig #70216, RIN Imp. Maria. Structural differences between this ship and the Maria are reflected in the kit parts and directions, so it is not an identical rebox of the Maria kit, it is almost identical to the Alexander III kit (dreadnought type not the pre-dreadnought Borodino).
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: See notes on Imperatritza Maria-class.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit with additional frets of photo etch detail parts. Hull is cleanly cast with lots of detail but oddly lacking the distinctive longitudinal breaks in the deck planking typical of Russian dreadnoughts of this period. With patience and skill you could pencil in these lines after painting (will be difficult to keep straight though). The deck is also missing the mobs of coal scuttles and hatches plainly shown on the included overhead line drawing. Once again these could be simulated by drops of white glue as long as you did a good job plotting them out and had excellent skills in keeping them uniform in size. The other parts are well molded with little to no flash. The enclosed PE frets contain railings, ladders, braces, cranes and grills. You will almost certainly wish to replace the resin masts and yards with metal rod or tubing. If Combrig would have gotten the details on the deck right this would have been an excellent kit not merely a good one.
Directions:: typical Combrig, one double sided page which includes a photo parts inventory, exploded view assembly diagram, brief history with technical data (all in Russian) and painting instructions.
Packaging: typical flimsy folded paper box with a photo of the actual ship as the box art. Small parts are bagged and the box is filled with little foam peanuts.
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Presumably, Imperatritza Ekaterina Velikaya and Imperator Aleksandr III are similar.
EXCELLENT. (Based on in-box review)
Kit Parts, Directions and Packaging: please see my review of Combrig #70249 HMS Invincible as they are almost identical kits. However, differences in the ships are accounted for in the parts and directions so this is not simply a rebox.
(WJS), review dated 3 March 2008.
EXCELLENT. (Based on in-box review)
Kit Parts, Directions and Packaging: please see my review of Combrig #70249 HMS Invincible as they are almost identical kits. However, differences in the ships are accounted for in the parts and directions so this is not simply a rebox.
(WJS), review dated 3 March 2008.
EXCELLENT.
Kit Parts: This is a resin kit that includes a fret of photo etch brass for detailing. The brass fret does not include railings but does have such items as chains, superstructure parts, chocks, platforms, some ladders, platform supports and mast hardware. The resin, a medium gray, castings are flash free and highly detailed. The hull casting which includes a part of the lower superstructure is amazing. The planking is so fine as to be almost invisible. The deck is crammed with detail which is supplemented to the nth degree with additional castings of a myriad of small parts that will boggle the mind. All manner of vents, reels and other deck hardware are finely cast onto thin runners. You will need a great deal of patience and time to deal with all this detail. Great care will also have to be taken in painting so as not to obscure all of this fantastic work. The hull is smooth cast on the sides so that if you wish to install the torpedo net booms you will need to consult good photographs for exact placement. There were no parts specifically called out in the directions for these booms, so you may need some plastic stock or wire to create the booms. Their placement is not dealt with in the kit directions but it would appear from the edge of the deck that there are locator indentations for the booms. As usual I suggest constructing the masts and yards out of brass wire or tubing if you wish to rig the ship, if not use the kit supplied resin parts. Other parts are cast on thin resin wafers which appear easy to remove. All gun barrels are cast in resin and look quite good. Brass or aluminum turnings would be nice but aren't necessary for these kits. I do not recommend this kit for beginners because of the numerous tiny parts.
Directions:: four single sided pages with page one containing line drawings of the starboard side and overhead views, a brief history (in Russian) and ship statistics. Page two is a photo copy of a picture of the kit contents for inventory purposes. Pages three and four consist of exploded view line drawings of the assembly process that seems adequate for the purpose.
Packaging: not the usual flimsy folded paper box but rather a flimsy thin cardboard box with a picture of the actual ship on the box top. The small parts are all bagged together in a small plastic bag. The rest of the box is filled with foam peanuts to keep the parts from rattling about too much.
(WJS), review dated 3 March 2008.
Editor's Notes: Variants have been issued as
For comparison, check out the following:
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: with all kits that state a specific date that the kit is supposed to represent I would caution the modeler to verify with period photographs or plans before accepting the kit maker’s claim. This kit purports to show Iron Duke in 1918 so the photo, line drawings and directions all omit anti-torpedo net and boom assemblies which would be correct for the claimed time period.
Kit Parts: This is a resin kit that includes a fret of brass photo etch of ship specific parts. There are no railings included. The photo etch fret includes such items as boat chocks, platform braces, platforms, grilles, chains and mast hardware. The hull is a single piece casting that goes up to the forecastle deck. The casting is simply outstanding. The planking detail is so fine as to be almost invisible! The modeler will have to exercise the greatest care in painting so as not to lose this exquisite detail to heavy coats of paint. The remaining resin parts are beautifully cast with no flash and easily removed from the casting plugs, pours or wafers. The modeler should beware that this kit is jam packed with tiny, tiny parts and will require a lot of patience to glue and place them. You may wish to have some photographs of the actual vessel to be sure that you get this placement right. As with all resin kits and most plastic ones you really should use brass rod or tubing to construct the masts and yards. You can do it with the parts provided but you will not be able to rig the vessel as those parts will be too delicate. If you are like me and don’t rig the ships ‘cause your team of trained spiders ran away to the circus, the delicacy of the parts is only an issue if you are a klutz. I would suggest that before attempting this kit that you have a couple of resin kits under your belt. That being said, any competent modeler can make this kit into a stunning example of the art.
Directions:: four single sided pages with page one containing line drawings of the starboard side and overhead views, a brief history (in Russian) and ship statistics. Page two is a photo copy of a picture of the kit contents for inventory purposes. Pages three and four consist of exploded view line drawings of the assembly process that seems adequate for the purpose.
Packaging: not the usual flimsy folded paper box but rather a flimsy thin cardboard box with a picture of the actual ship on the box top. The small parts are all bagged together in a small plastic bag. The rest of the box is filled with foam peanuts to keep the parts from rattling about too much. Well, that's the theorey, on my kit the hull rattled around a bit and broke off parts along the edge, mostly bollards.
(WJS), review dated 17 March 2008.
Editor's Notes: Portrays the ship in 1918. Variants have been issued as
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: Apparently, Combrig did not make a kit of the SMS Kaiser herself. They have issued kits of the following Kaiser-class battleships:
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Please see my remarks for Combrig kit #70419, SMS Prinzregent Luitpold, as the kit contents are nearly identical. Changes in the superstructure from Luitpold are reflected in the parts content and directions.
(WJS), review dated 12 March 2008.
Editor's Note: See also notes under Kaiser Class.
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Nikolayev. (Berkut B/Kara-class)
GOOD/EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: beautifully molded, finely detailed model of a much needed subject. Another crisp example of Combrig's latest offerings. whoever is doing the molding and casting of these kits is doing a fantastic job. one piece hull with incorporated lower superstructure. all resin kit with no photo-etched or white metal parts included. all parts other than hull jumbled together in the same baggy subjecting them to possible damage. parts are all cleanly cast on ultra thin wafers or easily removed pour plugs. Masts and yards will need to be replaced with metal rod or tubing for strength.
Hull measurements scale out for beam but come up a tad short (2.5%) on length, nobody will notice.
Directions:: One double sided sheet with the front containing side and overhead line drawings that are nicely detailed, better than some other kits. front also contains basic statistics and a brief history but text is all in Russian. No painting or rigging instructions given in English (don't know about the Russian text). Reverse contains exploded view assembly instructions and photos of all parts that are supposed to be in the box. Assembly instructions along with line drawings appear adequate to make the model and even do a basic rigging job but certainly not a full blown rigging plan.
Packaging: the usual flimsy folded white paper box with a few foam peanuts thrown in to attempt to minimize breakage. Box top has grainy black and white photo of actual ship as box art.
Another great ship model from Combrig.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship in 1905.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: with regard to the dates printed on the box tops and on the drawings in the directions of this and other Combrig kits the modeler needs to do some research before adopting that date as "Gospel". One of the things that comes up with warships of this era is the use of anti-torpedo nets and booms. These booms would have cluttered up the sides of capital ships early in WW1 and were only discarded later in the war. If the modeler wishes to portray his kit at a specific date he needs to check on whether or not that ship had the nets and booms at the time portrayed. This, in many cases will take more than a casual trip to the internet. Many photos of WW1 vessels, especially the Central Powers ships are either not dated or incorrectly dated so, builder beware! I prefer, if at all possible, to model my ships without the booms and nets, personal preference.
Kit Parts: This is a resin model with one fret of photo etch detail parts. The photo etch includes chains, braces, supports, platforms, ladders, stack grilles, davits and some parts that appear to be platforms for the anti-torpedo net stowage. There also appears to be some resin parts that may be the booms. The use of these parts is not referenced in the sketches so placement is unknown. Resin parts are all molded in a medium gray. The hull is a one piece molding with incredible detail in the deck and hull sides. The planking detail on the deck is extremely fine and will require care in painting not to obscure. The other parts are molded on pour plugs and bars along with some sheets of ultra thin wafer. All parts appear to be easily removed from their carriers and/or plugs. The parts are all highly detailed and finely molded with no bubbles, pinholes, malformations or flash. This is a truly beautiful kit. I would not recommend it for the first time resin builder because of the really tiny parts and fine detail, however, this is a treat for the more experienced builder.
Directions:: consist of two single sided pages. Page 1 has a starboard side line drawing and an overhead view line drawing. The drawings are very detailed and include simplified rigging views. The basic ship statistics are also on this page as is a brief history of the ship. All text is in Russian. Page 2 includes a photo inventory of the parts and an exploded view drawing of the assembly process. Using the page 1 line drawings the builder may have sufficient direction to build this kit, some parts placement may be vague. Neither the line drawings or assembly instructions note the use or placement of the anti-torpedo nets, platforms and booms. The line drawings on page 1 may allow the builder to set up a rudimentary rigging scheme. Directions in Combrig kits are not as good as some other manufacturers, but with care can be used successfully.
Packaging: the usual flimsy white folded paper box with a picture of the actual ship on the top as box art. Small parts are all put into one bag with the hull floating around the bottom of the box sharing it with some foam packing peanuts. The directions are then folded on top to keep the contents from moving about.
(WJS), review dated 12 March 2008. Editor's Notes: Portrays the ship in 1914.
This kit, or at least close variants of it, has been released as:
For comparison, check out the following:
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Please see my review and notes concerning Combrig #70241 Kaiser-class as the ships are of the same class and share the same characteristics if not the same parts. There are many differences between the kits that reflect the differences in the actual vessels. This is not a simple re-boxing of Konig as a sister ship. Interestingly, the photo chosen as the box top art would seem to indicate the time being 1913 and shows the ship clearly having torpedo nets, platforms and booms, yet the line drawings and directions do not.
(WJS), review dated 12 March 2008.
Editor's Note: NATO code name "Kresta II", Soviet code name "Berkut A". Presumably, Marshal Voroshilov, Vasilij Chapaev, and Admiral Makarov are similar.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Please see my review and notes concerning Combrig #70241 SMS König as the ships are of the same class and share the same characteristics if not the same parts. There are many differences between the kits that reflect the differences in the actual vessels. This is not a simple re-boxing of Konig as a sister ship. Interestingly, the photo chosen as the box top art would seem to indicate the time being 1913 and shows the ship clearly having torpedo nets, platforms and booms, yet the line drawings and directions do not.
(WJS), review dated 12 March 2008.
Editor's Note: See notes under Ushakov/Kirov Class
Editor's Note: Presumably, the same as Moscow.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: Please see my review and notes of Combrig #70279, HMS Princess Royal, as the parts included are identical.
(WJS), review dated 27 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: Variants of this kit have been issued as
EXCELLENT. (based on In Box Review)
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit that includes a photo etch fret that contains ship specific hardware such as platforms, chains, boat chocks, braces, walkways and grilles. There are no railings included. The resin parts are molded in a gray-green material that is flash free. The hull and most of the superstructure are molded in one beautifully cast piece. This company has been able to achieve incredible results in the casting of the small parts, some so small as to be like a hair. There is plenty of detail to satisfy just about any critic. The only thing I would have to say is that you should be prepared to handle incredibly small pieces. I have had to customize some of my tweezers to handle parts like this. In order to keep these tiny pieces from windging off into the carpet I cut up one of those rubber jar opener grips and glued pieces to the insides of my tweezers. This holds these tiny parts in place better. You will need to have the usual supply of brass rod or tubing to complete the masts and yards even though they have been provided in the kit in resin. I would only use them as templates as they are incredibly delicate. In addition to the brass rod you should purchase a set of photo etched ratlines in this scale to really give this ship the right look even if you do not attempt to rig the masts and yards with anything else (available from White Ensign Models). This kit a great model of a subject that has been badly treated, if at all, in the past by some other model companies.
Directions:: one double sided page which contains on the front a brief history of the ship, statistics, painting guide and line drawings of the starboard side of the ship and and overhead drawing. All of the text is in English. The reverse contains a photo copy of a picture of the kits contents by way of inventory and blow up line drawings of the assembly process. You will need the front page line drawings to clarify any vagueness in these instructions as to part placement. The directions are for the most part better than many.
Packaging: not the usual flimsy folded paper box but rather a flimsy thin cardboard box with a picture of the actual ship on the box top. The small parts are all bagged together in a small plastic bag. The rest of the box is filled with foam peanuts to keep the parts from rattling about too much.
(WJS), review dated 3 March 2008.
EXCELLENT. (based on in box review)
Notes and caveats: box art states that the kit represents Majestic in 1895 and features a black and white photo of the ship in Victorian livery. Before painting this ship be sure to check photographic references to match actual configuration to your choice of color scheme.
KIT PARTS: This is an all resin model with no photo etch included. All parts are molded in Combrig’s typical light gray resin. The hull and lower superstructure are molded in a single beautiful casting with only the tiniest bits of flash along the waterline that will disappear with a couple of swipes of the sanding stick. Deck detail is quite well rendered with finely engraved planking, however, there are no butt ends for the planks or coal scuttles that were prominent features on ships of this era. The skilled modeler can simulate these with drops of white glue or punched out plastic disks. The vast majority of modelers will probably not care one way or the other. Another nice feature of the deck detail is the well executed differentiation between the areas of wood and metal deck (including finely rendered texturing) under the sweep of the main battery guns.
The remaining parts are cast on a combination of stubs or sprues and a wafer for the decks. The parts are exquisitely rendered with little to no flash. Some of the tiny parts (and there are quite a few) will require great care to remove from their carriers without breaking. Davits for the ships boats are incredibly fine as are additional deck details and equipment. The barrels for the ships guns are also extremely well done and I don’t believe the additional purchase of brass barrels will be necessary. Ship’s boats, particularly the larger ones are very well done as are the many ventilators.
A significant omission should be noted for those modelers wanting to build the ship in pre-war or early war configurations: there are no parts included for the anti-torpedo nets, shelves and booms. As usual with resin kits the modeler is advised to have on hand a supply of brass or steel rod for rigging the masts. Plastic rod will do if no or simple rigging is intended.
DIRECTIONS: consist of two single sided sheets in black and white. All materials are in English. No painting instructions are noted. Sheet one contains a nice little canned history and discussion of the ship and its classmates as well as a brief armament and equipment list. The rest of the page contains two line drawings of the ship, one starboard profile and one overhead. You WILL need to reference these drawings to place the ships boats and the non-existent anti-torpedo equipment as well as to get a general idea of the complex rigging scheme on this vessel. You will need lots more than this if you want to rig the vessel accurately. Sheet two shows a parts breakdown, guide to cutting masts and yardarms and a exploded view line drawing of more or less where the included parts are supposed to go. This is typical of Combrig kits, they do not show assembly sequences.
PACKAGING: Typical flimsy white paper box with photocopied picture of the actual ship on the box top. Only small parts are bagged but foam peanuts were packed in my example to keep movement to a minimum. Some of the parts in my kit were damaged, your mileage may vary.
This is not a kit for the beginning modeler. While the parts are molded to a high quality the omissions, rudimentary directions, lack of painting instructions and the fragile nature of resin as a medium require the modeler to be of an intermediate or high skill level.
(WJS), review dated 7 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: Portrays the ship in 1895. Variants of this kit have been issued as
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Kronstadt. (Kresta II-class)
EXCELLENT.
Note: usually one has to take with a grain of salt the date printed on the box tops of these kits but this one is right on. The kit depicts the ship as she appeared in 1943 wearing a kind of loopy camouflage scheme that tried to disguise the ships appearance as that of a destroyer. How can you not like that? While Combrig did provide a small illustration of one side of the scheme you will need to do some photographic research to get it right. NavSource on line has some good photos. You will also need to work around those false painted life rafts!
Kit Parts and Build Notes: this is a resin kit with a photo etch fret of ship specific parts (no railings included). Parts are very detailed with the one piece hull and lower superstructure being very well done. Planked areas of the deck are very fine and there was virtually no flash found on any of the parts. All resin parts fit well. The PE fret included radar, catapults and crane assemblies. There are many, incredibly finely cast tiny parts contained in this kit, including much of the deck hardware. While this goes to show just how good Combrig is at casting finely detailed parts it makes the kit difficult to construct. There are dozens of parts so tiny that they are not only difficult to glue and place in the appropriate spot (more on that later) but they are almost impossible to grasp! I had to customize a set of tweezers with soft pads on the ends just to hold on to these tiny parts.
You will need to consult those research photos not only to get the paint scheme right but to make sure you get all those tiny parts in the right places. The directions, typical Combrig, are just a bit vague on some parts placement. If you want to rig this ship you will also need to make appropriate substitutions of brass rod or tubing in the masts and yards as resin cannot take the tension.
Packaging: typical Combrig with the flimsy, folded white paper box, bags and peanuts.
The kit builds up into a great model but it is definitely not for beginners because of the myriad of tiny parts and the difficulty of working with them, not to mention the somewhat vague placement found in the directions. However, for the modeler with some experience this is a great kit.
(WJS), review dated 14 March 2008.
EXCELLENT. (based on In Box Review)
Kit Parts: This is a resin kit that includes a fret of brass photo etch of ship specific parts. There are no railings included. The photo etch fret includes such items as boat chocks, platform braces, platforms, grilles, chains and mast hardware. The hull is a single piece casting that includes a portion of the superstructure. The casting is simply outstanding. The planking detail is so fine as to be almost invisible! The modeler will have to exercise the greatest care in painting so as not to lose this exquisite detail to heavy coats of paint. The remaining resin parts are beautifully cast with no flash and easily removed from the casting plugs, pours or wafers. As with all resin kits and most plastic ones you really should use brass rod or tubing to construct the masts and yards. You can do it with the parts provided but you will not be able to rig the vessel as those parts will be too delicate. If you are like me and don't rig the ships 'cause your team of trained spiders ran away to the circus, the delicacy of the parts is only an issue if you are a klutz. I would suggest that before attempting this kit that you have a couple of resin kits under your belt. That being said, any competent modeler can make this kit into a stunning example of the art.
Directions:: four single sided pages with page one containing line drawings of the starboard side and overhead views, a brief history (in Russian) and ship statistics. Page two is a photo copy of a picture of the kit contents for inventory purposes. Pages three and four consist of exploded view line drawings of the assembly process that seems adequate for the purpose.
Packaging: not the usual flimsy folded paper box but rather a flimsy thin cardboard box with a picture of the actual ship on the box top. The small parts are all bagged together in a small plastic bag. The rest of the box is filled with foam peanuts to keep the parts from rattling about too much.
(WJS), review dated 3 March 2008. Editor's Note: See also notes under Iron Duke Class"
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: with the exception of some mast platforms the parts in this kit are identical to those found in the Combrig #70241, König. Please see my review of that kit as all notes therein apply to this kit as well.
(WJS), review dated 23 September 2011. Editor's Notes: Portrays the ship in 1914.
GOOD/EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts, Directions and Packaging: reboxed Duncan, Combrig kit #70265 .
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: parts and assembly diagrams essentially the same as HMS Orion, Combrig kit #70259, as this is an Orion class battleship, however parts and diagrams are included for the differences in the aft superstructure.
All other remarks the same.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
GOOD. Moskva comes in two styles of resin, a heavy grey one for the hull and main superstructure pieces, and a finer tan molding for small pieces. All small parts are individually packaged in miniature ziplock bags. There is a fair amount of flash on the tan resin, and a line of gloop along the hull where the resin settled slightly. However, neither of these will pose much difficulty removing. There is a good amount of deck detail, some of which was pre-glued into place, but little vertical detail. Elevator lines, portholes and ventilation grated are only lightly etched and probably should be gone over. Main mistake is completely missing access panels for the hull mounted torpedo tubes. You will either have to do some careful gouging, or simulate with black paint. Kit is well worth cannibalizing a DML Sovremenny for the Modern Russian equipment set. Purchase a Gold Medal photoetch set for the railings and radar screens and this kit will come out quite impressive. (DH)
Editor's Notes: NATO code name "BLK-COM-1", Russian code name "Atlant". This kit, or variants of it, has been released as:
Editor's Note: See notes under Ushakov/Kirov Class
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Historical Note: this ship was a participant in the battle of Tsushima in the Russo-Japanese War, she was lost to a combination of gunfire and torpedoes.
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit with no photo etch included. All parts are cast in medium gray resin. The one piece hull incorporates the lower superstructure and is a highly detailed thing of beauty. The casting is flawless and will require no cleanup whatsoever. All other parts are cast on a combination of very thin wafers and pour plugs or stubs. Care will have to be taken when removing these finely detailed and delicate parts from their respective casting mediums. The chore does not seem to be nearly as difficult as many other kits I have seen. You will need to fabricate the ship's masts and yards with metal rod or tube whether or not you plan to add rigging to this ship.
Directions:: standard one page double sided sheet typical of the later issue Combrig kits. They include a brief history (in this case in English and Russian), basic statistics, painting instructions, parts inventory, line drawings and exploded view assembly diagram. If you carefully use the line drawings and diagram together you should have no difficulty with parts placement.
Packaging: typical flimsy folded paper box with a photo of the actual ship as the box art. Small parts are bagged, but the box has no peanuts so the parts rattle around.
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1895.
Editor's Note: NATO code name "Kara", Soviet code name "Berkut B". Presumably, Ochakov, Petropavlovsk, and Kerch are similar, and Azov, is a variant
EXCELLENT. (based on in box review)
Notes: Box art claims the ship to be in 1900 configuration, however, contents appear to be exactly the same as the Vengeance (Combrig #70448). While this may be accurate to the degree noticeable in 700 scale I recommend vigorous pursuit of one’s references before beginning construction.
As to all other remarks regarding this kit please see my review of the Vengeance.
(WJS), review dated 7 September 2011.
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Nikolayev. (Berkut B/Kara-class)
Editor's Note: See Gangut-Class.
Editor's Note: See Borodino Class.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: cleanly molded, flash free parts in a resin kit with one sheet of photo-etch consisting of platforms, braces, anchor chain and other small parts, but no railings. kit contains scores of very tiny parts that may be difficult for some modelers to handle. you will definitely need great tweezer skills for this kit. single piece hull with very minimal superstructure incorporated, deck detail is very fine and care will have to be taken to preserve the delicate planking detail when painting. hull scales out to a true 1/700 at the waterline and beam. substituting metal rod or tubing for the masts and yards will only be necessary if you are planning an elaborate rigging scheme (which I don't do 'cause my trained spider died).
Directions:: two double sided pages; page one consists of a photo inventory of parts, painting instructions called out in WEM Colourcoats paints, beautiful detailed line drawings from the side and overhead, along with a brief history and basic statistics, all in English. page two consists of exploded view assembly instructions of the main and sub assemblies, far superior to previous offerings by this manufacturer. A basic rigging plan could be constructed from the line drawings.
Packaging: the usual flimsy folded white paper box with a foam wrap around the hull to minimize breakage, no peanuts, small parts in the usual jumbled up baggy. Box top has grainy black and white photo of actual ship as box art.
Very nice kit of a long sought subject.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Presumably, Conqueror, Monarch and Thunderer are similar.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: at the end of WW1 this vessel was tranferred to the USN as reparations. After some testing it was used in the famous US Airforce demonstration by Gen. Billy Mitchell (or better termed propaganda as the deck was stacked) showing how battleships could be sunk by aircraft. Ostfriesland gave her all. One wonders if Mitchell hadn't stacked the deck (giving the battleship admirals plenty of ammo to claim the tests invalid) if USN battleships would have been better prepared against air attack many years later?
The photo on the box top is one from the period when Ostfriesland was turned over to the USN and not as the box top would seem to suggest, 1911, so it does not show the anti-torpedo net defences. The line drawings but not the directions note their placement.
Please see my notes and review for Combrig #70429 SMS Helgoland. The kit contents and quality appear to be identical. Any differences between the ships would be small.
(WJS), review dated 12 March 2008.
FAIR.. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit. Hull is a one piece casting in medium gray resin. It will require some cleanup along the waterline. Some detail cast into the hull is overscale. Deck missing some equipment seen in overhead views. Other parts are cast in gray resin on a combination of wafers and pour stubs. They have good detail but have quite a bit of flash to be removed. You will need to fabricate upper masts, yards, booms and flag staffs . This is a better ship model than the Gangut but still lacks detail that will have to be added.
Directions:: AWFUL, they include only a single poorly reproduced exploded view diagram of final assembly. Parts placement is at best vague. Assembly will be very difficult without good pictures, line drawings and or plans.
Packaging: typical flimsy folded paper box with a photo of the actual ship as the box art. Small parts are bagged and the box is filled with little foam peanuts.
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1924. See also notes under Gangut-Class.
POOR/FAIR. (based on in-box review)
This is the first resin ship kit in 1/700 issued by Combrig. The best thing that I can say is that it is for collectors only. It contains basic shapes and little more. The hull shows the promise of future quality to come from this maker, but the rest of it is just too needy.
Check with your dealer to see if this has been retooled before buying. As issued this is for masochists only or real ship model nuts, as I think those two terms are interchangable. ( I guess that's why I bought it...)
Directions and packaging are awful.
(WJS), review dated 14 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1877.
Editor's Note: See notes under Ushakov/Kirov Class
Editor's Note: See Gangut-Class.
FAIR. (based on in box review)
Note: this kit is one of the earliest issues from Combrig and may have been retooled and reissued since this one was purchased by me. Please check with your dealer before deciding whether or not to purchase it.
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit with no photo etch, brass rod, decals or anything else included. The kit is molded in a medium gray resin. The one piece hull is molded up to the main deck and except for finely lined planking and a few hatches is pretty much featureless. The sides of the hull have quite a few pinholes and flash along the waterline. The other parts range in quality from very good to pathetic. The ships boats are just awful, most other parts will need at least some clean up before they can be used. You will need to have brass rod or tubing for the masts and other parts as well as chain for the anchors. Lots of work will be necessary and a full spare parts box will be needed to turn this one into a nice model. For the experienced only.
Directions:: one large sheet which contains a numbered parts list in English and Russian but no numbers on the parts or a sketch or photo of the parts to help identify them. The other half of the sheet consists of two line drawings, one of the starboard side the other an overhead view. The numbers for the parts are called out with lines to the parts in question so you can locate them in the assembly process. While not completely useless it is hardly all that helpful. The directions are for the Poltava which I can only assume was a sister ship. Several small drawings at the bottom of the sheet supposedly highlight differences between Poltava, Petropavlovsk (our subject) and Sevastopol.
Packaging: the usual cheesy white folded paper box, hull loose in bottom, small parts in a plastic bag. My kit had no further packing material so the parts rattled around like a BB in a beer can.
(WJS), review dated 14 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1898. See also notes under Poltava-class.
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Nikolayev. (Berkut B/Kara-class)
Editor's Notes: This kit, or close variants of it, has been issued as:
GOOD/EXCELLENT (based on in-box review) see Combrig #70269 HMS Queen as this POW is a Queen class battleship and is simply a re-boxed Queen with all parts, directions and line drawings the same as found in the Queen kit. Much better references than I have available to me would be necessary to accurately depict the minor differences between the ships of this class for the modeler who would care to do so.
(WJS), review dated 31 January 2006.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: This is a resin kit molded in dark gray. It includes two (at least mine did) identical photo etch detail frets of supplementary parts. The resin is clean and crisp with no flash, malformed parts or warping. Some decks are cast on a thin wafer with all other parts on pour plugs. The detail is excellent. All parts are beautifully cast, even the tiny deck fittings. The huge hull casting is a work of art in itself. Planking is very finely etched but does not contain butt ends or coal scuttles in the deck. This kit is not for the faint of heart. There are scores of very tiny deck equipment parts to attach. In addition the PE contains even more tiny parts for mounting the ship’s boats that are going to be really challenging to get in their proper alignment. The PE also includes, funnel grids, platform supports, ladders (but no inclined ladders), braces and anchor chain. As usual with any resin kit, if you wish to rig the model you would best be served by replacing the resin masts and yards with brass rod or steel tubing. An inset in the directions provides a pattern for making your own replacements from your material of choice.
This is a really excellent kit but I really don’t understand why Combrig consistently omits the parts to create the torpedo defense mechanisms. Later war fits for many of the ships modeled do omit the netting but they should include it to model the early war fit.
Directions: Three single sided black and white sheets. Sheet one contains ship statistics, a canned history in English and two line drawings. They are very detailed line drawings of starboard and overhead views showing rigging and placement of coal scuttles and hatches should the modeler wish to add them to the deck plan. Sheets two and three contain photo inventories of the parts and line drawings indicating parts placement. These are much better than the usual drawings and should make it easier than the average Combrig kit to construct.
Packaging: Different than the usual Combrig kit. The top half of the box is the usual flimsy folded paper with a fuzzy black and white photo of the actual ship but the bottom is a heavy cardboard box. Small parts are bagged in plastic, but not the hull. The box was then crammed with foam peanuts that severely limit part movement to prevent breakage. It reminds me of the way WSW kits are packaged.
This is a great example of the resin kit maker’s art and should be in every Royal Navy fan’s collection. It will not be and easy kit to construct and certainly not to rig but it is a beauty.
(WJS), review dated 27 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: See notes under Lion-class.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: with regard to the dates printed on the box tops and on the drawings in the directions of this and other Combrig kits the modeler needs to do some research before adopting that date as “Gospel”. One of the things that comes up with warships of this era is the use of anti-torpedo nets and booms. These booms would have cluttered up the sides of capital ships early in WW1 and were only discarded later in the war. If the modeler wishes to portray his kit at a specific date he needs to check on whether or not that ship had the nets and booms at the time portrayed. This, in many cases will take more than a casual trip to the internet. Many photos of WW1 vessels, especially the Central Powers ships are either not dated or incorrectly dated so, builder beware! I prefer, if at all possible, to model my ships without the booms and nets, personal preference.
The box top photo of the ship clearly shows the anti-torpedo nets, platforms and booms in use, neither the line drawings nor directions show them.
Kit Parts: This is a resin model with one fret of photo etch detail parts. The photo etch includes chains, braces, supports, platforms, ladders, stack grilles, davits, ship's boats rudders and some parts that appear to be platforms for the anti-torpedo net stowage. There also appears to be some resin parts that may be the booms. The use of these parts is not referenced in the sketches so placement is unknown. Resin parts are all molded in a medium gray. The hull is a one piece molding with incredible detail in the deck and hull sides. The planking detail on the deck is extremely fine and will require care in painting not to obscure. The other parts are molded on pour plugs and bars along with some sheets of ultra thin wafer. All parts appear to be easily removed from their carriers and/or plugs. The parts are all highly detailed and finely molded with no bubbles, pinholes, malformations or flash. I do not have the Combrig Kaiser kit to compare this one to so I cannot say whether or not the parts content varies. Faithful readers will know I built the WSW version of SMS Kaiser, kit #700-035. This is a truly beautiful kit. I would not recommend it for the first time resin builder because of the really tiny parts and fine detail, however, this is a treat for the more experienced builder.
Directions:: consist of two single sided pages. Page 1 has a starboard side line drawing and an overhead view line drawing. The drawings are very detailed and include simplified rigging views. The basic ship statistics are also on this page as is a brief history of the ship. All text is in Russian. Page 2 includes a photo inventory of the parts and an exploded view drawing of the assembly process. Using the page 1 line drawings the builder may have sufficient direction to build this kit, some parts placement may be vague. Neither the line drawings or assembly instructions note the use or placement of the anti-torpedo nets, platforms and booms. The line drawings on page 1 may allow the builder to set up a rudimentary rigging scheme. Directions in Combrig kits are not as good as some other manufacturers, but with care can be used successfully.
Packaging: the usual flimsy white folded paper box with a picture of the actual ship on the top as box art. Small parts are all put into one bag with the hull floating around the bottom of the box sharing it with some foam packing peanuts. The directions are then folded on top to keep the contents from moving about.
(WJS), review dated 12 March 2008.
GOOD/EXCELLENT (based on in-box review) Crisply molded all resin kit (no photo-etch or white metal parts) with little to no flash, no pinholes or lumps; single piece waterline hull incorporating the lower superstructure, remaining parts bagged together which could cause a breakage problem with the delicate davits and gun barrels (no damage in my kit), typical Combrig flimsy paper box with reproduction photo of actual ship on the box top. 7-inch (18 cm) length at waterline which scales out exactly to proper length, beam just slightly underscale, but not noticable.
Directions consist of a single double sided sheet with line drawings of the fully rigged ship in profile and from above along with a brief history of the ship and basic statistics, in English, on the front side and on the reverse side an exploded view of the assembly process (no sequence called out or numbering of the parts) along with a photo layout of the parts included. Simply structure of the ship is adequately served by equally simple directions. Placement of ships boats being the only iffy item but easily done with reference to the line drawing on the front side of the sheet. Rigging on all ships of this era being profuse additional references will be necessary to accurately reproduce the scheme if you are so inclined.
All in all a lovely little gem of a kit.
(WJS), review dated 31 January 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship in 1904.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: This is a resin kit that includes a fret of photo etch brass for detailing. The brass fret does not include railings but does have such items as chains, funnel grilles, chocks, platforms, some ladders, platform supports and mast hardware. The resin, a medium gray, castings are flash free and highly detailed. The hull casting which includes a part of the lower superstructure is amazing. The planking is so fine as to be almost invisible. The deck is crammed with detail which is supplemented to the nth degree with additional castings of a myriad of small parts that will boggle the mind. All manner of vents, reels and other deck hardware are finely cast onto thin runners. You will need a great deal of patience and time to deal with all this detail. Great care will also have to be taken in painting so as not to obscure all of this fantastic work. The hull is smooth cast on the sides so that if you wish to install the torpedo net booms you will need to consult good photographs for exact placement. There were no parts specifically called out in the directions for these booms, so you may need some plastic stock or wire to create the booms. Their placement is not dealt with in the kit. As usual I suggest constructing the masts and yards out of brass wire or tubing if you wish to rig the ship, if not use the kit supplied resin parts. Other parts are cast on thin resin wafers which appear easy to remove. All gun barrels are cast in resin and look quite good. Brass or aluminum turnings would be nice but aren't necessary for these kits.
Directions:: four single sided pages with page one containing line drawings of the starboard side and overhead views, a brief history (in Russian) and ship statistics. Page two is a photo copy of a picture of the kit contents for inventory purposes. Pages three and four consist of exploded view line drawings of the assembly process that seems adequate for the purpose.
Packaging: not the usual flimsy folded paper box but rather a flimsy thin cardboard box with a picture of the actual ship on the box top. The small parts are all bagged together in a small plastic bag. The rest of the box is filled with foam peanuts to keep the parts from rattling about too much.
(WJS), review dated 3 March 2008.
Editor's Notes: See notes under Lion-class.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Historical Note: This British battleship had a surprisingly short career as a warship. Put into service in 1897 and scrapped in 1914 before the outbreak of WW1 she spent most of her time in service as a Royal Yacht and a tender to HMS Victory. She must not have filled the Admiralty with boundless confidence as to her capabilities. However, this ship is a great opportunity for the RN modeler to add a great looking black, buff and white battleship (or just buff and white as a Royal yacht) in immaculate condition to the great gray fleet!
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit with no photo etch. All parts are molded in light gray resin. The hull is a one piece casting that incorporates the lower superstructure. Once again Combrig has produced not only a beautiful, clean casting requiring no preparation other than washing, but they have again created a total gem with superfine detail. The other pieces are cast on pour plugs and extremely thin wafer and are also highly detailed and flash free. There are an incredible number of tiny, highly detailed parts in this kit. It is NOT for the beginner in resin. Careful handling is a must to get these tiny parts off of their stubs without damaging them. All parts necessary to construct this kit are included in the resin castings but I would suggest, at a minimum, substituting metal rod or tubing for the upper masts and yards. I know I'm too clumsy for these delicate pieces to work with them in resin and I know I'm not alone in this. This is an outstanding kit.
As more pre-dreadnoughts appear on the market the PE makers are beginning to respond to their specific needs. You can now obtain ratlines for these ships from White Ensign Models and I'm sure more PDBB specific things will come out soon. Combine the ratlines with rigging and rails and a truly exquisite model can be built.
Directions:: consist of one double sided page. Included are line drawings of side and overhead views, basic technical data (in Russian), a brief history (in Russian and English), a photographic parts inventory and two exploded view assembly diagrams. Some parts placement is a bit vague so you may want to seek out some photos or plans of this ship to get this right (especially for ship's boats, their equipment and the ventilator intakes). There are no painting instructions.
Packaging: this kit sports a different type of box than earlier kit releases. It is now sold in a fairly sturdy cardboard instead of the usual flimsy folded paper box. Box art and marking consist of a reproduction of a vintage photo of the ship on the box top with some company information printed atop that. All parts other than the hull are jumbled together in one bag (it is a miracle that mine suffered no damage in transit), hull is neither bagged nor wrapped, and all plus a few peanuts are just plunked into the box.
(WJS), review dated 17 February 2006.
FAIR/GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: now here's a battleship with an interesting history. The Russian government did a lot of their ship shopping in foreign markets. Retvisan was built by Cramp in Philadelphia, PA, USA. That purchase turned out to be a good value for the money. In the Russo-Japanese war she survived being torpedoed at Port Arthur, was repaired, took part in the Battle of the Yellow Sea where she took eighteen hits from 12" and 8" shells, survived that only to sink in the harbor of Port Arthur after having been hit by thirteen 11" mortar shells. She was raised by the Japanese at the end of the war, repaired and taken into the Japanese Navy and named Hizen where she served until 1923 finally being sunk as a target ship in 1924.
Kit Parts: if only the kit was as good as the story. This is an all resin model molded in a mix of different colored resins. There is no photo etch or metal parts or decals. You will need to hit your stock of brass rod or tubing to complete the masts and you will need to purchase some chain for the anchors. The one piece hull is molded up to the main deck. Hull planking is represented by admirably fine lines but they are just straight parallels. There is little else molded into the deck other than some major features like bollards. I have not seen many kits of ships of this era that mold in or even acknowledge the presence of the numerous coal loading shutes that were in the decks of coal powered ships, this one is no exception. There were some pinholes mixed in with the portholes that will take some care to fix so as not to obscure the limited detail on the side of the hull. The hull in my kit was somewhat hogged as well. I expect that can be cured by the hot water bath method. Retvisan used the net and boom anti-torpedo defense from the very beginning. There is nothing in the kit to represent those parts. A simplified drawing on the directions shows them in their rough positions but nothing else. Interestingly, the box top photo shows the ship without the booms in place (but their mounting points are clearly visible along the hull near the waterline), but I doubt that such was the case in 1902. Most of the smaller parts are cleanly molded but the ships boats are a big disappointment as more than half are simply featureless. The modeler will have to substitute from the parts box or alter them to appear to have canvas covers over the top (it could be done without too much trouble). Several of the other parts such as the davits and anchors will have to be delicately chipped out of their carrier flash. I suppose some of the disappointment I felt with this kit has a lot to do with the beautiful photo of the actual vessel reproduced on the box top being juxtaposed with the simplified box contents. The basics are there but a lot of work will be required to make it look even close to that great picture.
This kit is one of the earlier efforts of Combrig and may have been revised and reissued as several of their other early efforts have been so check with your dealer before buying.
Directions:: single page printed on both sides. Top side consists of ship statistics and history printed in Russian and two very simple line drawings of the starboard side and and overhead view. Flip side consists of a photo inventory of the box contents and a very simple drawing showing parts placement. No measurements are given for the masts and yards and placement of parts will not be easy to figure out from the drawing given.
Packaging: typical Combrig flimsy white folded paper box with the parts in a plastic bag, the hull free to rattle around in the bottom. Mine did not come with the usual foam peanuts in the box voids.
(WJS), review dated 14 March 2008.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: this ship was a holdover type of vessel that somehow survived for an incredibly long time. Aside from an interesting history she was so bizarre looking I had to have one. No specific time period for the fit of the kit is given.
Kit Parts: This is an all resin kit with no photo etch or parts in any other medium. The one piece hull and lower superstructure, cast together can only be described as exquisite. The shields are paper thin and the molded in deck detail is sharp and cleanly cast. There are no planking lines molded in the decks of this ship as her decks were not planked, so don't go looking for something that isn't supposed to be there. All other parts are cast on a variety of bars, plugs and wafers. The wafered parts are on very, very thin easily removed carrier. There appears to be virtually no flash on my kit. There are lots of very tiny, detailed, delicate parts so care will be needed to not break them during assembly. Resin main battery gun barrels are cast separately from the turret and have blast bags on them. Mast parts are resin but I would suggest their replacement with brass rod or tubing if you wish to rig the ship. This is an extremely small model, less than 165 mm in length but is absolutely crammed with beautifully cast, detailed parts.
Directions:: one two sided page consisting of statistics and brief history (in English, along with a starboard side and overhead view line drawings on the front side and a photographic parts inventory on the reverse side with a single exploded view drawing of the assembly process. Hopefully, it is clear enough for most of us, your mileage may differ. Box art shows the ship in one of the Admiralty disruptive paint schemes but the directions contain no painting clues at all, you are on your own.
Packaging: typical Combrig flimsy, white folded paper box with a picture of the ship on the top, small parts in a plastic bag, hull loose in the bottom, box voids filled with foam peanuts.
(WJS), review dated 14 March 2008.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit parts: very crisply molded example of Combrig's more recent offerings. One piece hull with lower superstructure incorporated. all resin kit with no metal or photo-etched parts included. all parts virtually flash free on a mixture of paper thin sheet and pour stubs that are easily removed. all parts except hull are bagged together with potential for damage to delicate parts like davits and gun barrels. masts and yards will need metal rod or tubing substitutes for strength.
Measurements of hull indicate a slight scale discrepency in length and beam of about 3% but is essentially unnoticable.
Directions:: one double sided page with front containing side and overhead line drawings, basic statistics and short history with simplified painting instructions in English and Russian. Reverse contains exploded assembly view and photos of included parts. exploded view and line drawings are adequate for assembly but no guidance for the elaborate rigging scheme used on vessels of this period.
Packaging: the usual flimsy folded white paper box with a few foam peanuts thrown in to attempt to minimize breakage. Both bow and stern on my kit had poked through the box. Box top has grainy black and white photo of actual ship as box art.
Still and all a nice looking kit that captures the flavor of the era.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
EXCELLENT. One word description - SUPERB
The deck detail is amazing with the steel blast plates on the deck picked out to perfection possibly one of the best resin kits around (and thats saying something as all Combrig kits are excellent) the kit is accurate in every detail and is moulded to perfection. The only fiddly bits are the central gangway and the boat supports but with a full PE fit (essential) and Victorian black white and buff colour scheme she looks perfect.
Painting will challenge all comers as the amount of deck detail needs to be picked out but thats part of the fun !
Highly recomended kit and essential if you are into the Pre Dreadnought era.
(AMS), review dated 14 February 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship in 1889.
Portrays the ship in 1909.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: Combrig is in the process of re-issuing their entire product line with improvements to the kits that may include photo etch parts in some cases and new castings in all instances. The kit numbers remain the same so this will make it difficult to tell what is in any given box. You may wish to consult their web site to see which kits have been re-tooled. Remarks in my reviews are NOT necessarily reflective for re-tooled kits. If the kit I have has been re-tooled I will note that in the review only if I am certain that is the case.
Kit Parts: This is an all resin kit molded in light gray. This kit has been retooled and reissued with the same stock number. My kit is the older version. The one piece hull is well detailed, crisply cast and for the most part flawless. There is a small amount of excess resin along the waterline that can be removed with a few passes of a sanding stick. Wood decking is limited to the foredeck under the molded in anchor chains which I believe to be correct as the rest of the decks were steel or linoleum faced. There are, however, no coal scuttles or small hatches molded into the deck. The remaining parts are cleanly cast with some flash along the turret bottoms. The resin masts and spars should be replaced with brass rod or steel tubing even if you are not going to rig this ship as, at least on mine, they are a bit warped. Now, I have straitened many a small resin part just by dipping it it hot water for a few seconds and allowing the "casting memory effect" to return the part to its correct shape but your mileage may vary. Except for the rigging ships of this type were fairly simple in appearance. Modelers of WW2 era ships expect a lot more deck and superstructure clutter so don’t be disappointed that it isn’t there.
Directions: Consist of a single black and white double sided sheet. The front contains two line drawings of the ship with starboard and overhead views. The starboard side view shows a rudimentary rigging pattern. The rest of the front of the sheet consists of a canned history and statistics on the ship in Russian. The reverse consists of a photographic parts inventory and a simple blown up line drawing showing parts placement. Considering the very few parts in the kit the drawing is adequate to construct the ship as provided. Super detailers will want to consult additional sources.
Packaging: flimsy white paper folded into a box with a fuzzy black and white photo of the ship on the top. Hull is loose in the box, small parts are bagged and a bunch of foam peanuts are added to hinder rattling around. Some small parts in my kit were broken in shipping.
(WJS), review dated 27 September 2011.
GOOD/EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: Duncan class battleship, see Combrig kit #70265 as almost all parts and directions are the same with the exception of the parts and arrangement of the foremast.
All other remarks the same.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: See Ushakov-Class.
Editor's Note: See also notes under Poltava-class.
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Admiral Zozulya. (Project 1134/Kresta I Class)
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
Note: this is an early release from Combrig and may have been revised and reissued so that these remarks may not pertain to a newer kit. If the kit has not been revised this is what you get.
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit, there is no photo etch, metal parts, decals, flag sheets or additions of any other kind. The resin is a very dark gray and for the most part cleanly molded. The one piece hull, molded up to the boat deck includes a fair amount of molded in detail and just a modicum of flash around the water line. Deck planking consists of finely drawn parallel lines with no but ends, coal chutes or anything of that nature. There are in addition to the planking lines some nice hatches, bollards, capstan and boat chocks (those are very heavy). You will need anchor chain and metal rod or tubing for the masts and yards. While you are out scrounging parts you will need something for the anti-torpedo net and boom defense. There is no platform for the net, net material or boom material included in the kit much less anything telling you how to do it. The rest of the parts have very little flash and have fairly good detail on the surfaces. A couple of the added decks for the bridge may need some considerable fiddling with to make fit but everything else looks pretty good.
Directions:: not completely awful but not of much help either. One page with the parts called out by name and number in English and Russian, however, there is no inventory to compare it to so that is pretty much worthless. You will have to match up the parts to the starboard side drawing and overhead view contained on the same page.
Packaging: the usual Combrig flimsy folded white paper box with the small parts bagged and the hull loose in the bottom of the box. Foam peanuts fill the voids.
(WJS), review dated 14 March 2008.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Historical Note: this Borodino class battleship is depicted in her 1916 guise. Slava played an active part in WW1 when most other pre-dreadnoughts were relegated to side show status. She even took on a couple of Germany's finest ships in her last action.
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit with no photo etch included. All parts are cast in medium gray resin. The one piece hull incorporates the lower superstructure and is a highly detailed thing of beauty. The casting is flawless and will require no cleanup whatsoever. All other parts are cast on a combination of very thin wafers and pour plugs or stubs. Care will have to be taken when removing these finely detailed and delicate parts from their respective casting mediums. The chore does not seem to be nearly as difficult as many other kits I have seen. There are a number of tiny parts in this model of outstanding detail. The ship's boats in particular stand out as being wonderfully detailed. You will need to replace the ship's masts and yards, provided in resin, with metal rod or tube if you plan to add rigging to this ship, but that is my standard advice on any ship model kit, resin or plastic.
Directions:: standard one page double sided sheet typical of the later issue Combrig kits. They include a brief history ( in this case in English and Russian), basic statistics, painting instructions, parts inventory, line drawings and exploded view assembly diagram. If you carefully use the line drawings and diagram together you should have no difficulty with parts placement. You could even create a fairly convincing rigging plan from study of the line drawings.
Packaging: typical flimsy folded paper box with a photo of the actual ship as the box art. Small parts are bagged and the box is filled with little foam balls that look like oversized peas.
Production Note: buyers on the secondary market (you know who you are) should be aware that the Borodino Class of battleships were one of the earliest ships issued by Combrig. The sample reviewed above is actually a reissue that has been much upgraded and of higher quality than the earlier issue. Not all Borodinos are of the same quality level as this one. If you want this you need to buy one of the reissues.
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: See Borodino Class.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review) Beautifully cast in grey resin, and it nicely matches the drawings and statistics that I have. This will be an excellent project
(DRW), review dated 10 March 2017.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review) Beautifully cast in grey resin, and it nicely matches the drawings and statistics that I have. This will be an excellent project
(DRW), review dated 10 March 2017.
OK. (based on in-box review)
Historical Note: this kit is a model of the battleship sunk at the battle of Tsushima in the Russo-Japanese War.
Kit Parts: this is an all resin model with no photo etch included. All parts are molded in dark gray resin. One piece hull incorporates lower superstructure. Deck has nice straight planking detail but little else. Hull sides are completely devoid of detail. Hull and upperworks suffer from pinholes and some kind of reddish blotches throughout the resin which may or may not affect the painting of the ship. All other parts have little surface detail and are covered with flash. Normally I suggest substituting metal rod or tubing for resin or plastic masts to rig any ship model but in this case you will need to do so regardless of whether or not you intend to rig it. The ship's boats are almost devoid of detail and are little better than rough shapes.
Directions:: poor, they consist solely of one sheet of line drawings side and overhead views with numbered callouts for the parts list (no photo inventory to help you identify them either).
Packaging: typical flimsy folded paper box with a photo of the actual ship as the box art. Small parts are bagged and the box is filled with little foam peanuts.
Production Note: this Borodino class kit is an example of the early issues by Combrig. This entire class of ships has been retooled and reissued by Combrig. Please see my remarks on RIN Slava for what you will get in the newer kits.
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1904. See also notes under Borodino Class.
GOOD. (based on in-box review) This is a good quality resin kit of an important Cold War subject. The Sverdlov-class were the largest light cruisers of all time. They were also the last light cruisers to be built, and they served through almost all of the Cold War.
The level of detail is very nice indeed. The problem is that some of the superstructure pieces do not fit correctly. It looks like Combrig did not correctly account for the shrinkage of the resin. Corrections will be tricky, but not too difficult for an experienced modeller.
(DRW) review dated 5 February 2010.
Editor's Note: Presumably, Dzerzhinskiy, and Zhdanov, are variants of this kit.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: Highly detailed, nicely molded parts in the usual jumbled up baggy. Single piece hull with lower superstructure incorporated. this is an all resin kit with the exception of a small sheet of photo-etched parts. no obvious flash, sinkholes or pinholes but small parts appear to be more difficult to remove from pour plugs than other recent offerings from this company. Masts and yards should probably be replaced with metal rod or tubing for strength.
Directions:: Standard double sided single sheet, in English, with one side featuring detailed line drawings (although with a highly simplified rigging plan), basic statistics (lacking length and beam measurements), a brief history and something different from prior offerings; painting instructions called out in WEM Colourcoats colors. The other side contains the usual photo inventory of parts and an exploded assembly plan adequate when used with the line drawings for building but not for rigging.
Packaging: the usual flimsy folded white paper box with a few foam peanuts thrown in to attempt to minimize breakage. Box top has grainy black and white photo of actual ship as box art.
Nice kit of hard to find subject matter but some difficulty foreseen with the removal of the small and/or delicate parts from the pour stubs.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship in 1903. Apparently, Triumph is similar.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: Tango was the former Russian battleship Poltava (Combrig kit as well) captured during the battles of the Russo-Japanese war. The ship was sunk in shallow water and raised by the Japanese and then incorporated into the IJN. It was later returned to the Russians and renamed Chesma (which kit Combrig also has produced). I do not have the Poltava kit to compare differences, if any, so I can’t comment on accuracy. I was unable to find any but basic photos of the ship in IJN service either. This kit is one of those recently re-worked by Combrig (assuming the re-work being done to Poltava) as part of their on-going effort to improve their entire line of kits.
Kit Parts: This is a resin model with a fret of supplementary photo etch parts. The PE consists of an incredible array of TINY boat chocks, braces, weapons platforms, davits, anchor chain, funnel grills, anchors, inclined ladders and vertical ladders. Resin parts are clean and crisp with good surface detail. Most parts are on casting plugs but a few deck and platform pieces are on a thin film carrier that must be sanded off. The delicate casting of these tiny parts is truly amazing. The only negative to this is that these miniscule resin and PE parts are going to be really hard to handle. The one piece hull is nicely cast with finely engraved planking detail of the continuous line variety (no butt ends to the planks). Somewhat of a disappointment, as this is a reworked kit from their line, is the lack of coal scuttles and other small hatches as found in some of their newest castings. As usual I would prefer main battery gun barrels to be done in brass but these aren’t really all that bad. Rigging this ship will require substituting brass rod or steel tubing for the resin parts provided.
Directions: A bit of a departure for Combrig with this one as there are three pages of black and white illustrations and type. The first page is in the usual style of a canned history of the ship (in Russian and English) accompanied by line drawings of starboard and overhead views that give a very basic rigging pattern for the ship as well as the usual compilation of weapons and equipment statistics. There are also painting instructions for the ship in Russian service both pre-war and wartime colors but no instructions for Japanese service. The next two pages consist of the usual photographic parts inventory and multiple line drawings of part placement. In a true change of pace there is even a picture showing boat placement! There is no mention of anti-torpedo defenses nor are any parts provided for them. The box top photograph, presumably taken immediately after induction into IJN service, shows no torpedo net defense. The directions are an upgrade from the usual for Combrig.
Packaging: flimsy white paper folded into a box with a fuzzy black and white photo of the ship on the top. Hull is loose in the box, small parts are bagged and a bunch of foam peanuts are added to hinder rattling around. No parts in my kit were broken, although I don’t know why not.
(WJS), review dated 23 September 2011.
GOOD. (based on in - box review).
I believe that this is one of Kombrig's earlier offerings. I had a vague impression that some of their earlier offerings were not up to current standard, but my initial impression is good.
The kit is molded in gray - green resin. It comes in the typical flimsy box with a grainy picture on the cover, and packing of styrofoam peanuts. The hull is perfectly flat, and cleanly molded, with commendably straight rows of portholes and a reasonable amount of detail. Little cleanup will be required. On deck there is a forward breakwater with supports, along with capstans, bollards, hatches, and a couple of small winches. The mine rails that ran from the forecastle break to the stern are represented as fine raised lines. A small depth charge rack is molded on the stern. Otherwise the deck is smooth. There is no plating detail on the deck or hull, though some is visible in photographs. Comparison with the Profile Morskie 29 drawings reveals minor differences in deck detail. Most noticeable is the shape of the forward breakwater. In plan view, the PM 29 drawing shows it as evenly curved, while on the kit it is distinctly angled, making a shallow "V". >From the one photo of this area, it appears the curved form is correct, but the low angle at which the picture was taken makes it difficult to be certain.
There are four small, zip - loc bags of parts. One contains the distinctive, streamlined forward superstructure with the fore funnel faired into it, the after funnel, and a wafer of platforms. Another is for the armament - Three triple torpedo tubes, three main battery turrets, a shielded twin AA mount, single 40mm open mounts, and some lighter machine guns or cannons. Barrels are integral with the mounts, and are very thin. One of the main battery barrels was broken. Looking at the instructions, it appears that extras are provided for the light AA. A good thing, as three of the six 40mm had broken barrels. A third bag contains the main battery director and small parts such as anchors, searchlights, compasses, prop guards, and a paravane. The last bag contains boats, rafts, and davits. The boats are nice, but are joined to a runner the length of their keels, and care will have to be taken in removing them.
The instructions appear adequate. There is a single sheet of paper printed on both sides. The printing is good and legible. One side has a 1/700 drawing of the ship, in plan and profile view with a brief history (in Russian). The other side has a photo of the parts layout, next to an exploded drawing showing parts placement. The parts are not numbered anywhere on the instructions. This is an annoyance, but it is not a very complex kit, and it should be possible to identify all of the parts from the pictures.
No photoetch or decals are provided. There do not appear to be any resin masts included. I prefer to make them from brass wire, anyway. The masts are simple poles with yardarms. It looks like the mast dimensions can be determined from the drawings. The PM 29 drawing shows the foremast with a small platform with an RDF loop, some prominent signal lamps, and a couple of braces securing the mast to the forward superstructure. These details will have to be scratch built.
While perhaps not as detailed as their more recent releases, and lacking bells and whistles such as photoetch and decals, I believe the Kombrig Tashkent will build into a nice looking replica of this handsome, distinctive looking ship. I am especially impressed by the clean, sharp molding, and the almost complete lack of flash on the small parts.
(CW) review dated 22 March 2007
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: parts and assembly diagrams essentially the same as HMS Orion, Combrig kit #70259, as this is an Orion class battleship, however parts and diagrams are included for the differences in the aft superstructure.
All other remarks the same.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: cleanly molded flash free all resin parts, one piece hull with lower superstructure, no photo-etch or metal parts. Many small, delicate parts but easily removed from pour stubs and ultra thin wafers. All parts have nice details and good finish. Careful painting and handling will be required to preserve all this great detail. Hull scales out to proper length and beam. Should the modeler choose to rig this model he will need to change out the supplied resin masts and yards to metal rod or tube.
Directions:: the usual single sheet of double sided paper with detailed line drawings of side and overhead views accompanied by basic statistics, a brief history and painting directions, all in English and Russian on the one side and on the other a photo inventory of kit parts and exploded assembly plan. Kit isn't complex enough for this to be a problem in building this model unless you want to rig it with the cloud of lines that this ship would normally have.
Packaging: the usual flimsy folded white paper box with a few foam peanuts thrown in to attempt to minimize breakage. Box top has grainy black and white photo of actual ship as box art. Small parts all thrown into a single baggy that rattles around in the box.
This kit is of a subject that has been almost a Holy Grail among modelers. It is great to see a quality product for this ship.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship in 1914.
Four small ships in one box. Also includes: Storm sloop, MO-4 hunting craft, and OD-200 hunting craft
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: see remarks for Combrig kit #70271, HMS Swiftsure as Triumph is a Swiftsure class battleship. kit contains assembly view and parts for a different venting arrangement of the stacks for this ship.
Packaging: more attention paid to packing with more peanuts in a tighter arrangement, otherwise the box and art work are of the same type as the Triumph kit.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship in 1903.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: Combrig is in the process of re-issuing their entire product line with improvements to the kits that may include photo etch parts in some cases and new castings in all instances. The kit numbers remain the same so this will make it difficult to tell what is in any given box. You may wish to consult their web site to see which kits have been re-tooled. Remarks in my reviews are NOT necessarily reflective for re-tooled kits. If the kit I have has been re-tooled I will note that in the review only if I am certain that is the case.
Kit Parts: This is an all resin kit molded in a very light olive green. The hull is a one piece casting that includes basic superstructure above the main deck. My kit has a considerable amount of material to be removed along the waterline, a somewhat unusual state of affairs for Combrig as they are almost always very cleanly cast. The hull detail is good for this tiny kit with portholes and hatch covers along the sides of the hull in their correct approximate place. Deck detail consists of the usual large hatches and bollards and planking is deeply etched into the deck in continuous straight lines. There are no butt ends, coal scuttles or small hatch covers molded in. Ships of this era would have had their decks covered in these scuttles and hatches. The rest of the parts are cleanly molded and crisp with little to no flash. Decks are cast onto thin wafers that you must sand off to remove them. There were no warped or malformed parts in my kit at all. Masts and yards are all resin and quite delicate. They are unsuitable for rigging but can be used for patterns for brass rod or steel tubing if you rig your small ship models, most modelers don’t.
Directions: Consist of a single black and white double sided sheet. The front contains two line drawings of the ship with starboard and overhead views. The starboard side view shows a rudimentary rigging pattern. The rest of the front of the sheet consists of a canned history and statistics on the ship in Russian and English. The reverse consists of a photographic parts inventory and a simple blown up line drawing showing parts placement. You will need to flip back to the overhead drawing for boat placement. Considering the very few parts in the kit the drawing is adequate to construct the ship as provided. Super detailers will want to consult additional sources.
Packaging: flimsy white paper folded into a box with a fuzzy black and white photo of the ship on the top. Hull is loose in the box, small parts are bagged and a bunch of foam peanuts are added to hinder rattling around. No parts in my kit were broken, although I don’t know why not.
(WJS), review dated 27 September 2011.
FAIR.. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is all resin. All parts are cast in medium gray resin. One piece hull is cast up to the main deck, There is good surface detail on the hull but the deck lacks coal scuttles and other goodies like that. Good surface detail on the other parts but there is lots of flash to remove on both stubs on wafer castings. The main battery barrels seem to be really overscale. Brass rod or tubing is necessary to fabricate masts, yards and booms. You will need a set of plans to address things like boat fittings, cranes and rigging.
Directions:: one double sided sheet that contains line drawings of side and overhead views, basic statistics, a brief history, painting instructions, photo parts inventory and an exploded view assembly diagram. Drawings and diagram are not up to later standards of this company.
Packaging: typical flimsy folded paper box with a photo of the actual ship as the box art. Small parts are bagged, the hull is wrapped in a foam blanket and oddly enough the box is not filled with little foam peanuts in the usual Combrig manner, the parts rattle around in a mostly empty box.
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1896. Presumably, Senyavin and Apraksin are similar.
Editor's Note: The rumor mill suggests that this kit has been cancelled. Presumably, Nakhimov, Lazarev, and Pyotr Velikii were to be similar.
GOOD. (based on in-box review) Another good, well detailed kit, but fit is a problem. One of the main superstructure pieces does not fit well on the hull.
(DRW) review dated 5 February 2010.
Editor's Note: See notes under Moskva (ex-Slava)
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Grozny. (Kynda-class)
Editor's Note: See notes under Moskva (ex-Slava)
EXCELLENT. (based on in box review)
Notes and caveats: box art states that the kit represents Vengeance in 1899 and features a black and white photo of the ship in Victorian livery. Before painting this ship be sure to check photographic references to match actual configuration to your choice of color scheme.
KIT PARTS: This is an all resin model with no photo etch included. All parts are molded in Combrig’s typical light gray resin. The hull and lower superstructure are molded in a single beautiful casting with only the tiniest bits of flash along the waterline that will disappear with a couple of swipes of the sanding stick. Deck detail is quite well rendered with finely engraved planking, however, there are no butt ends for the planks or coal scuttles that were prominent features on ships of this era. The skilled modeler can simulate these with drops of white glue or punched out plastic disks. The vast majority of modelers will probably not care one way or the other. The remaining parts are cast on a combination of stubs or sprues and a wafer for the decks. The parts are exquisitely rendered with little to no flash. Some of the tiny parts (and there are quite a few) will require great care to remove from their carriers without breaking. Davits for the ships boats are incredibly fine as are additional deck details and equipment. The barrels for the ships guns are also extremely well done and I don’t believe the additional purchase of brass barrels will be necessary. A significant omission should be noted for those modelers wanting to build the ship in pre-war or early war configurations: there are no parts included for the anti-torpedo nets, shelves and booms. As usual with resin kits the modeler is advised to have on hand a supply of brass or steel rod for rigging the masts. Plastic rod will do if no or simple rigging is intended.
DIRECTIONS: consist of two single sided sheets in black and white. All materials are in English. No painting instructions are noted. Sheet one contains a nice little canned history and discussion of the ship and its classmates as well as a brief armament and equipment list. The rest of the page contains two line drawings of the ship, one starboard profile and one overhead. You WILL need to reference these drawings to place the ships boats and the non-existent anti-torpedo equipment as well as to get a general idea of the complex rigging scheme on this vessel. You will need lots more than this if you want to rig the vessel accurately. Sheet two shows a parts breakdown, guide to cutting masts and yardarms and a exploded view line drawing of more or less where the included parts are supposed to go. This is typical of Combrig kits, they do not show assembly sequences.
Packaging: Typical flimsy white paper box with photocopied picture of the actual ship on the box top. Only small parts are bagged but foam peanuts were packed in my example to keep movement to a minimum. None of the parts in my kit were damaged, your mileage may vary.
This is not a kit for the beginning modeler. While the parts are molded to a high quality the omissions, rudimentary directions, lack of painting instructions and the fragile nature of resin as a medium require the modeler to be of an intermediate or high skill level.
(WJS), review dated 7 September 2011.
Editor's Note: Apparently, Ocean and Albion, are virtually identical. See Bill's comments on those two.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts, Painting Note, Directions and Packaging: please see my review of the Combrig #70407 MN Danton, the class leader. The kits are almost identical, however minor changes in the superstructure are reflected in the kit parts so that the builder can differentiate the class members.
(WJS), review dated 12 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Admiral Zozulya. (Project 1134/Kresta I Class)
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts, Painting Note, Directions and Packaging: please see my review of the Combrig #70407 MN Danton, the class leader. The kits are almost identical, however minor changes in the superstructure are reflected in the kit parts so that the builder can differentiate the class members.
(WJS), review dated 12 March 2008.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: Box top states that the fit of the ship is 1910, however, the photograph provided does not show anti-torpedo net equipment and could be either an as delivered photo or a later war photo. I would expect to find anti-torpedo net equipment in this time period. There is no anti-torpedo equipment provided in the kit either so if you want to build the ship with it you will have to fabricate netting, shelves, booms and boom rigging. I prefer to build my ships of this era without the netting but you may not.
Kit Parts: This is a resin model with a supplementary fret of photo etch parts. The PE consists of vertical ladders, included stairways, funnel grills, flagstaffs, gangways, anchor chain, platforms and platform braces. Resin is cast in light gray. All resin parts are crisply molded with no flash, excepting of course, those parts molded onto a thin sheet of resin (mostly platforms and superstructure decks). Light sanding will free these pieces from their carrier. There is a plethora of tiny, delicate resin cast parts in this kit. Great care will be needed to keep from breaking them when you remove them from their casting plugs ( a fine toothed razor saw works well on these plugs). The one piece hull is a truly gorgeous casting. The hull (two deck levels cast in) is just crammed full of detail. While planking is etched into the deck in continuous lines without butt ends the rest of the detail is marvelous. Combrig has cast into the deck numerous hatches and coal scuttles typical of vessels of this period. While these will be a bear to paint it is great to see them on this kit. This is typical of recent castings by Combrig of ships from this era and has hardly ever been done by other companies. Locator outlines for the superstructure parts are also cast in to assist assembly. Masts and yards are cast in resin and should be replaced with brass rod or steel tubing if you wish to rig this ship. If not, they are perfectly fine the way they are.
Directions: typical Combrig consisting of two one-sided black and white sheets. The first has a starboard side drawing of the ship with no pattern of rigging and an overhead drawing view showing placement of the ship’s boats. It also contains a history of the ship and some statistics on armament and equipment. The second page consists of a photographic inventory of parts and line drawings showing parts placement. They do not show boat placement or give any hints as to where and how you might install anti-torpedo netting after you fabricated it. While the drawings themselves are clear they are also rudimentary. You can build the kit with them but prior experience in this era ship would be very valuable.
Packaging: flimsy white paper folded into a box with a fuzzy black and white photo of the ship on the top. Hull is loose in the box, small parts are bagged and a bunch of foam peanuts are added to hinder rattling around. No parts in my kit were broken, although I don’t know why.
This is an excellent kit for the HSF fan but some experience in resin would be a big plus. The weakness of the kit is in the instructions not the casting or engineering. This is a fault shared by many resin kits.
(WJS), review dated 23 September 2011.
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Kronstadt. (Kresta II-class)
EXCELLENT, with a caveat. (based on in-box review)
Note: This kit is essentially the same as the Combrig #70196, Brandenburg. There is some differentiation in main and foremast platforms. All other remarks are the same with the exception of the directions. While the second sheet of the directions does reflect the platform differences it contains only a single blow up drawing of the assembly of the parts and inexplicably leaves out the placement of the boats and boat platform braces. It would be best to obtain a copy of the Brandenburg’s directions for this function. I believe they may be on line at Combrig’s site. The lack of placement directions for these braces will make this kit REALLY hard to finish. I don’t understand such an omission.
This is a serious fault in an otherwise excellent kit.
Somewhat compounding the annoyance of the prospective builder is the box top illustration. It shows the ship with full anti-torpedo equipment. As noted in the Brandenburg review no such equipment is included with the kit.
(WJS), review dated 23 September 2011.
OOB: A fine model, well detailed with just a couple minor casting flaws. She depicts one of two Sverdlov class CLs that was converted to a command cruiser. In her case X position 6" turret was replaced by an OSA-M (SA-N-4) SAM launcher. One small personal complaint is that most of the superstructure is moulded to the hull. While this makes construction simpler, it complicates painting the deck, and also makes it difficult to convert her to the Admiral Senyavin, which lost both after turrets in favor of a hangar and OSA-M launcher. (JP)
Editor's Note: Presumably, Drozd, Sevastapol, and Vladivostok are similar.
Contact Mike Czibovic for more information. (DRW)
| Chicago | Detroit | Floating Drydock | Garcia Class | Houston | Knox Class | Louisville |
| Northampton | Phoenix/Honolulu | Ranger | US Navy 5"/38 Guns | US Navy 5"/25 Guns | Vestal |
EXCELLENT. (based on in-Box Review)
Note: This kit now comes with a fret of photo etched brass from Tom’s Modelworks #716 which includes cranes, catapults, platform support structures and other necessary bits for radar and masts that improve the furnished resin parts for those items. My kit did not come with railings. Otherwise as to quality of molding, casting detail, etc. please see my remarks on Corsair Armada #7014, Houston CA-30.
(WJS), review dated 12 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: Portrays the ship in 1942. See also notes under Northampton Class.
Portrays the ship in 1945.
Excellent model, finely detailed. (JP)
EXCELLENT. (based on In-Box Review)
Kit Parts: This is a resin kit with some plastic rod included to finish the masts and yards. There is no photo etch or decals included. The resin is a light gray that is cleanly cast with all pieces being highly detailed. I could find no miscast or malformed parts at all in my kit. The one piece hull casting incorporating a surprising amount of the superstructure was exquisitely done. The remaining parts are cast on a combination of pour bars or plugs and a bit of very, very thin resin wafer. The detail is extremely good and parts fit would seem to be excellent. Gun barrels are cast separately from the turret and are quite nice even though they are in resin. I would recommend that you obtain a photo etch detail set for the cranes, radar and catapults as this kit is so nice you just want to add that extra measure of detail. Parts are included to build this kit in pre-war fit or early war fit. You can also build it as USS Chicago (CA-29) of the same era. If you wish to add rigging to this model I would also advise that you use brass rod or tubing to create the masts and yards as the plastic just isn't up to the pressure generated by the attempt.
Directions:: consist of four one sided photocopied pages in black and white. Page 1 gives ship statistics, a brief history and references as well as photographs of the completed or partially completed model with call outs for the installation of the various parts. Page 2 is a parts inventory. Page 3 consists mostly of photographs of the finished model with some parts number callouts, spar arrangement on the main mast, gun and boat arrangement in the center of the ship. Page 4 illustrates further parts placement through photographs and alternate parts depending on the time period modeled.
Packaging: sturdy white cardboard box with minimal marking only showing the maker name, part number, kit name and address of the maker. Parts in plastic bags with one crumpled piece of heavy packing paper as insulation against movement, nice try but no cigar. Once again, I have been lucky to have no damage to the parts.
(WJS), review dated 6 March 2008.
Kit includes decals.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-Box Review)
Note: This kit has been retooled from an earlier version and is more accurate for the stated time and a bit crisper than the earlier kit. It now comes with a fret of photo etched brass from Tom’s Modelworks #716 which includes cranes, catapults, platform support structures and other necessary bits for radar and masts that improve the furnished resin parts for those items. My kit did not come with railings. Another feature is the inclusion of Corsair Armada’s very nice supplementary 20 mm guns. These are a little tricky to handle and assemble, especially for those of us with 10 thumbs but beautiful. Otherwise as to quality of molding, casting detail, etc. please see my remarks on Corsair Armada #7014, Houston CA-30.
(WJS), review dated 12 September 2011.
Portrays the ship in 1944. Kit includes photoetch.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-Box Review)
Please see my remarks for Corsair Armada #7014, Houston CA-30 as they apply equally to this kit in terms of quality and contents. Newer versions of this kit may come with photo etched brass for cranes, catapults, platform supports, etc and a supplementary set of 20 mm guns as do the newer versions of Louisville and Chicago by Corsair Armada. Check with your vendor to be sure or inquire at the Corsair Armada web site.
(WJS), review dated 12 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: This kit has apparently been issued as
For comparison, check out the following:
Portrays the ship(s) in 1941-42.
(DRW) dated April 2010.
Editor's Notes: Possibly a combination of old Dragon molds.
Editor's Notes: Possibly a combination of old Dragon molds.
EXCELLENT. Beautifully molded in clear plastic, this set features Panther, Skyraider (3 aircraft with spread wings and 3 aircraft with fold wings per type), and Cougar (6 aircraft with spread wings only). Bonus geometrical symbols decal is provided in special edition. Kit contains good assembly and painting instrustions.
(AS), Review dated 22 March 2010.
EXCELLENT. Beautifully molded in clear plastic, this set features Banshee, Corsairs (spread and fold wings), and Dragonfly helo, 6 aircraft of each type per set. Bonus geometrical symbols decal is provided in special edition. Kit contains good assembly and painting instrustions.
(AS), Review dated 22 March 2010.
Editor's Note: Scheduled for release April 2010.
FAIR. [In-box review] Late 50’s, early 60’s production. 42 injection-molded plastic pieces. Hull and superstructure scale well to references, deck fittings and weapons are not well detailed and “thick”, typical of the timeframe this kit was produced. Pilot house lacks side windows.
(MSP) Review dated July 2002.
Portrays the ship in 1940.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: This is an all resin kit with no photo-etch or metal parts. One piece hull has fantastic detail incorporating not only the lower superstructure but also the stacks. All other parts are cast on pour stubs and are very detailed as well. There is some degree of flash but it is easily removed. Because masts and cranes are resin they may be hard to keep straight with rigging so you may wish to supplement or substitute with metal rod or tubing where necessary. Beautifully detailed kit will build up into an impressive model.
Directions:: brief history and basic statistics in Italian and English. Line drawings of side and overhead views, painting instructions and very limited exploded view diagrams of bridge assembly. Very careful review of parts list and line drawings will be necessary to assemble this model.
Packaging: cardboard box, minimally marked. Parts bagged and taped to bottom, box filled with foam peanuts, hull loose and unwrapped rattles around in box damaging the other parts.
(WJS), review dated 6 February 2006.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit. All parts are molded in tan resin. The hull is a highly detailed one piece casting incorporating most of the superstructure. The bottom of the hull will need to be sanded down to sit level. The whole hull casting is crammed with well executed detail. All other parts are well detailed and complete. Many are very delicate and will be difficult to work with. You will need to fabricate masts, yards, cranes and booms from metal rod or tubing. The resin davits look too flimsy to work with so substitution may be needed there also. As with all resin kits having a supply of metal rod or tubing on hand is a necessity. Main battery turrets and gun barrels are molded as one but look very good and easy to work with.
This kit is well worth seeking out.
Directions:: very extensive use of line drawings and exploded view assembly diagrams. Painting directions are also included.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a color photo of the built up model as the box art. The hull is wrapped in bubble wrap, the small parts are bagged and then rolled in bubble wrap. Resin kits like this require extra care as the parts can be easily damaged with improper handling, my kit did have some damage to the small parts and that is fairly typical of these kits. As they say, you're a modeler, fix it.
(WJS), review dated 19 February 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship in 1915.
Metal model
Includes 2 Corvettes.
10 Floatplanes/Seaplanes
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1910.
EXCELLENT. (based on In-Box Review)
Note: This kit contains parts to build either RN Napoli or RN Roma. If you are as compulsive as I am you will buy two of them and build them both...
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit molded in medium gray. There are no photo etch frets, metal parts, flags, decals or brass rod included with the kit. You will need brass rod or tubing to complete the masts and yards. The molding on all parts is highly detailed and virtually flash free. There are some wispy bits of flash around the incredibly delicate boat davits and some flecks around the ship's waterline but that was about it on my kits. As is the usual practice with models of this type the hull and lower superstructure is molded in one piece and the modeler will be adding some small parts, stacks, platforms, boats, guns and masts. Be prepared to deal with some really tiny parts and the difficulty of removing them from the pour plugs without breakage. The maker has made this task as simple as it can be given the small size of many of the parts, just be patient. The gun barrels of the turrets are molded separately from the turrets. As you know from my other reviews I would prefer turned brass or aluminum main battery barrels on ships of this type, however, the resin ones provided are perfectly OK. This is a state of the art kit very similar in quality to the new kits from Combrig. I certainly can’t say that this will be an easy kit to assemble, given the number of small parts but you will be pleased with your purchase of this kit.
Directions:: two large double sided sheets in Italian with some things called out in English. The first page is primarily a list of the statistics for this class of ship including all members and contact information for the manufacturer. Page 2 shows line drawings of the starboard side and overhead shot of the ship with painting instructions in Italian and English called out in Humbrol colors. Page 3 consists of two starboard line drawings, one each of Napoli and Roma showing the differences in the parts placement for the two ships. Page 4 consists of a line drawing of the parts, by way of inventory and another overhead view of the ship showing parts placement that focuses mostly on the placement of ship's boats and deck guns. Careful study will be needed to make sure that parts placement is correct.
Packaging: thin cardboard box in blue and white with the company logo on the top and a small sticker on one end indicating the contents. Parts are in plastic bags that have been stapled to the sides of the box to keep from moving. Nice idea, but, most of the add on parts are all jumbled into one bag so any serious rattling will give you lots of broken bits. Luckily enough, mine was pretty much unscathed.
These kits are not easy to find in the US but can be ordered directly from the maker if you can't get them from your usual source (my source was Pacific Front Hobbies).
(WJS), review dated 6 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1904.
VERY GOOD. (based on In-Box Review)
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit molded in dark gray and darker gray. There are no photo etch frets, metal parts, flags, decals or brass rod included with the kit. You will need brass rod or tubing to complete the masts and yards. The molding on all parts is highly detailed but a bit flashy, with some heavy bits along the bottom edge of a number of key parts like the turrets. However, most of the parts are pretty much flash free. As is the usual practice with models of this type the hull and lower superstructure is molded in one piece and the modeler will be adding some small parts, stacks, platforms, boats, guns and masts. Be prepared to deal with some really tiny parts and the difficulty of removing them from the pour plugs without breakage, ships boats being a case in point. If you are not careful you will cut the bottom out of the boats when removing them from their pour plugs or sprues or whatever they are. The maker has made this task as simple as it can be given the small size of many of the parts, just be patient. The many vents carried on this ship appear to be nicely done. The gun barrels of the turrets are molded separately from the turrets. As you know from my other reviews I would prefer turned brass or aluminum main battery barrels on ships of this type, however, the resin ones provided are perfectly OK.
Directions:: three standard size double sided sheets of black and white photocopies. Page 1 consists of a recitation of the ship’s statistics, in Italian along with contact information for the manufacturer. Page 2 consists of starboard side and overhead line drawings with paint callouts in English and Italian. Actual colors would best be sourced from White Ensign Models as the directions are only in general color names. Page 3 consists of line drawings of the parts for inventory purposes and a starboard side view of the ship. Page 4 gives exploded view drawings of the various rigging points for masts and yards (a very nice and rare touch for kits in this scale, but only for the truly gifted modeler or his trained spider). Page 5 consists of line drawings of starboard side and overhead in 1/565 scale with callouts for part placement on the superstructure. Moderately helpful at best. Page 6 is a close up line drawing of the center overhead of the ship showing primarily boat and davit placement. You might want to get some photos of this one before trying to put it together.
Packaging: thin cardboard box in blue and white with the company logo on the top and a small sticker on one end indicating the contents. Parts are in plastic bags that have been stapled to the sides of the box to keep from moving. Nice idea, but, most of the add on parts are all jumbled into one bag so any serious rattling will give you lots of broken bits.
(WJS), review dated 6 March 2008.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit with NO photo etch included. To complete this kit you will have to provide metal rod or tubing for masts and you may wish to obtain a PE detail set. My example may have been an early production kit, later kits may have had content changed or upgraded since. You should check with the manufacturer.
The one piece hull is cleanly and beautifully cast. Deck detail is superb, especially the planking aft and the breakwaters. Minor cleanup will be needed on the bottom to remove excess resin from the casting process ( a minor task). All parts have great surface detail. There does not appear to be any incomplete or miscast parts. The usual cautions will have to be taken when removing small and/or delicate parts from their casting plugs or stubs. However, there are no great big thick casting wafers to worry about. Note, there will be some difficulty with the large casting of the lower superstructure as it is cast on a thick, full length plug. You will need a large razor saw to remove it and some serious sanding to even it out.
Italian battleships of this era were really gorgeous designs and this kit does them justice. Painting the camouflage of the period will be very challenging but colorful to say the least.
Directions:: a mix of Italian and English text with one major exploded view assembly diagram. Painting instructions are good when used with the illustrations provided. Otherwise, the directions for this kit are merely adequate.
Packaging: minimally marked cardboard box with a color photo of the completed model as the box art. Hull is bubble wrapped but the other parts are carelessly bagged with consequent damage to the delicate parts and the gun barrels of the main battery (hint, buy some after market turned brass or aluminum gun barrels for this kit). The box was then filled with foam peanuts.
(WJS), review dated 26 February 2006.
Portrays the ship at Tobruk in 1940.
Diorama Set For San Giorgio.
Check out their web site (DRW)
EXCELLENT. (in-box review) Another Skywave reissue, (see Jodie's review of the earlier kit) but now with a lower hull included. The kit also includes parts and instructions to make Australian Perth-class DDGs. Issued 1996.
GOOD. The Alfa is kind of small in this scale, but it's certainly easy to assemble. Painting is a bit of a trick, as usual... The Ohio also goes together easily. (DRW)
GOOD. Also released by Testors (kit 902). A 1:700 scale polystyrene kit which includes a TU-95 "Bear" aircraft and two Kamov "Hormone" helicopters. These kits were released about the time the "Hunt for Red October" film was released, and are part of a series of constant scale submarine kits. This kit includes a fairly decent 1:700 representation of the USS Ohio class of SSBNs.
Overall, the accuracy of the Ohio is reasonably decent, although the vertical end plates on the sternplane should be longer than they are high. There should also be towed array dispensers on their ends. Again, there are engraved panel lines on the hull of the Ohio which do not belong on a submarine model. The hull cylinders are welded together, and the weld beads ground down to 1/16the inch flush of the hull. The forward end of the missile "turtleback" should be blended into the hull with some putty. The space created where the turtleback joins the hull along the side should be left open- it is a flooding slot. A 7 bladed scimitar photoetch propeller from Flagship Models (FM 700-14) greatly enhances this kit.
The tiny Alfa (Project 705 Lira class) that comes with this kit was a "best guess" at the time. The stern should be more elongated and tapered, rather than the blunt stern on the kit. The forward diving planes are actually slightly more than halfway down the hull, not as high as the kit planes. The top rudder and hinge line appears fine, the bottom hinge line is not correct. The propeller should be a five bladed affair, with two teardrop shaped, auxiliary maneuvering motors almost at the stern plane tips. These motors have two-bladed propellers. Also missing (not known at the time) is a prominent scoop a little more than halfway back on the side of the hull near the bottom. This brings seawater in to cool the reactor at high speeds, eliminating pumps.
Overall, a good but not exceptional kit. (TD)
See Dallas vs. Alfa, below.
EXCELLENT.
Kit well accords to modern standards, depicting first USN attempt to run angled deck. Hull and superstructure seem about right. Clear version of deck is provided along with grey plastic one supplying you ith great amount of spare plastic. Also, aircraft provided is beautifully molded in clear plastic. Pair of each, Banshee, Phantom, Cougar, Corsair, Cutlass, and Dragonfly.
(AS), Review dated 11 April 2010.
Editor's Notes: Apparently, this is a variant of DML's Essex-class. It was first issued around 2007.
GOOD/VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: I have built and reviewed the Hi-Mold # 039, 1941 Arizona. I have also purchased in the past the old Revell 1/720 kit and the Trumpeter 1/700 kit both of which I threw in the trash. I purchased this kit originally to canabalize for parts for some other older resin kits, however, because I loathed the MS-1 paint scheme that I used for the Hi-Mold Arizona when I built it I decided to build this one too using the earlier Standard Navy Gray scheme of late 1940, early 1941. Something you should think about before building your ship is how much you will like the finished paint scheme...
Note 2: There are several versions of this kit out on the shelves. The first version was, as I understand it, an all plastic kit. The second version, marked with a yellow sticker on the box top stating “Special Version” which I will review here and a third version called Deluxe. I believe that the Deluxe and Special versions contain different photo etch parts.
Kit Parts: This is, of course, an injection molded plastic kit. However it does include additional items not found on most other plastic kits. In addition to a decal sheet there is also included turned brass main battery gun barrels (as well as plastic ones in the kit), some of the parts are molded in a weird soft vinyl that has great detail but doesn't give me a good feeling about construction. There is also a photo etch sheet of railings and a few other small parts. The catapults, cranes and aeriels are all molded in plastic or vinyl. The detail on the hull is excellent, especially the hull sides. The deck is finely engraved in the areas calling for wood planking but the whole effect is seriously marred by the division of the deck pieces. The main portion is cast into the hull but both bow and stern areas are cast separately and will have to be joined leaving a really difficult set of seams to deal with. This bit of strange casting is echoed in the lower waterline area hull plate. In that case the bow and stern are cast integrally with the hull and the major portion of the center must be glued into the hull. Surface detail is excellent and there is very little flash found on the parts. The ship's boats and aircraft are cast in hard, clear plastic on their own sprue. The photo etch consist almost entirely of two and three bar railings with no gutter along the bottom, so that your attachment points will only be the bottom of each stanchion.
While this kit is far better than any other iteration of Arizona I have seen in this scale you will still need to buy a photo etch set for the cranes, catapults and aerials. Fortunately, the price of this kit is so low that it won't be a problem. Dragon may have remedied the PE defienctly in the more recently released kits.
Directions:: the usual multipage exploded view line drawings that seem to cover the bases sufficiently. Paint colors are called out in Creos (Gunze?) and Italeri numbers. As always with any kit painting instructions check with your sources before doing anything.
(WJS), review dated 2 April 2008. Editor's Note: The kit is said to portray the ship in 1941, and to have 154 parts. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Almost the same as Invincible. Portrays the ship in 1991. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Re-issue of the Skywave Atlanta class, now with full hull option. This kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: New mold, circa 2010. It is said to portray the ship in 1945. Presumably, this kit is a relative of DML's earlier Laffey kit.
Editor's Note: Issued around 2004. (DRW)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: New mold, circa 2008. It is said to portray the ship in 1942.
GOOD. Expensive, but nice. I had some serious trouble fitting the forward deck/bow bulwark piece correctly. I ended up using lots of putty. Others claim not to have had this problem. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: This kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD/VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
This kit would appear to depict the Chandler just before she was handed over to the Taiwanese Navy in late 1998 or 1999. Launched in 1980 the ships of this class were originally built for the Shah of Iran's Navy but due to the sudden, unfriendly regime change they were taken over by the USN. They were sometimes derisively called the Ayatollah Class.
This is a plastic kit that includes a small fret of photo etch radar components and a decal sheet of warning circles, flags and hull markings. Strangely enough the decals do not include the squared off warning and landing zones. Those consist of raised lines cast into the deck that have to be painted in. Decals and painting instructions cover all members of the class. The upper hull is cast as one piece with the deck except for an insert of bow decking. There were no sink holes or indentations in my kit but I have seen others that have had them. This hull casting differs from the other similar Spruance class castings in that the deck is flush without any of the superstructure cast into it. It has been brought to my attention that there is an alignment problem with the after funnel assembly (subassembly F). The directions and locator holes have it along the centerline of the ship and it should be shifted to starboard about as far as possible for correct alignment. Check this out with plans and photos to see exactly what needs to be done.
The lower hull is a package of parts from the Ticonderoga kit that has the lower hull split vertically. The upper hull is cast smooth on both sides and aft. The modeler will need to consult plans or photographs to add the necessary hull detail from plastic stock (which, in this scale, isn't all that much, but still quite prominent in the photographs of the ships). The parts are very well cast and flash free with good surface detail.
This is a very nice kit that I would recommend to anyone looking for more modern subject matter than the usual WW2 subject. The direction are easy to follow although I would suggest that the modeler take care with the painting suggestions and follow up with some photographic research to pick out details and check on that alignment problem.
(WJS), review dated 2 April 2008.
Editor's Note: Presumably, this is a close relative of the DML 1/700 Spruance class. Issued late 2005. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably, the same kit as the C. F. Adams, below. The clipper bow and bow-mounted SQS-23 sonar are correct for this ship. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably, the same kit as the Spruance, below. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: The end of the Cold War has brought about some confusion in nomenclature. For many years, the Soviet/Russian Project 941 SSBNs were known in the West by their NATO code name "Typhoon", and DML labelled them as such. Since the end of the Cold War, we have learned their correct project designation and even their internal code name, "Akula" The Project 941 SSBNs (Russian "Akula", NATO "Typhoon") should not be confused with the Project 971 SSNs. (Russian "Shchuka-B", NATO "Akula") (DRW)
FAIR. The Dallas is simply an early Los Angeles class, often simply called a "688" boat. It isn't bad, except for the vertical stabilizers on the tail planes. Just cut them off. Yes, they've got the wrong number of blades on the propeller, but the real number is supposed to be a secret.
The Typhoon has some well-documented problems with the stern. As Tom notes below, the "Beaver tail" is completely wrong. Apparently, several sources in the 1990s (including Norman Polmar's 1986 and 1991 editions of "The Naval Institute Guide to the Soviet Navy") showed the "Beaver tail" in diagrams, so DML can be forgiven for their error. More recent photos of the actual sub (which Tom supplied to me) show a very different stern. I'd need more references to authoritatively correct it. (DRW)
FAIR. 1:700 scale polystyrene kit which includes SH-60B Seahawk helicopter, P-3 Orion and S-3 Viking aircraft. These kits were released about the time the "Hunt for Red October" film was released, and are part of a series of constant scale submarine kits.
The Dallas kit features a number of anomalies. The stern planes have the tow vertical endplates ("tail fins") that are also found in the larger 1:350 scale Dallas kit from the same manufacturer. The Los Angeles class of SSNs do not have these vertical endplates, although the preceding Sturgeon class SSNs did. There should be a towed array dispenser fairing on the end of starboard sternplane. Also featured are engraved panel lines on the hull. While these are certainly welcome on aircraft kits, submarine hulls do not have engraved panel lines. Current submarine hulls are welded, and the weld bead ground down to within 1/16th of an inch of the hull. Result: the hulls are very smooth. The sail in the kit is a bit too tall for the LA class, closer to the preceding Sturgeon class. The forward hatch is too far forward, it is much closer to the sail. There are sets of large oversize "pegs" running down the topside- these need to be removed. The kit propeller is semi bloblike and poorly cast, replace it with a Flagship Models 1:700 photoetch modern submarine propeller (FM 700-14).
The Russian Typhoon class SSBN (Project 941, Akula class) is a scaled down version of the same company's 1:350 model. As we now know, the stern on the Typhoon kit is totally wrong. There is no large central stern diving plane ("beavertail"), rather there are two smaller sternplanes abaft the propellers, which are themselves enclosed in shroud or duct. Other features such as the dual safety rail are raised and exaggerated.
Although this kit was popular (and fetches a good price at auctions), it can only be assessed as fair in terms of accuracy and assembly fit. (TD)
See Yushio vs. Delta III, below.
EXCELLENT. The first in a long-desired series of new-tool Essex-class ships in 1:700 and an entire universe removed from the venerable Hasegawa kit. Unlike Hasegawa, Dragon's upper hull is a single molding; a separate tool produces the hull for the long-bow ships. Dragon also includes a nicely-appointed hangar deck. You're given the option of a clear plastic flight deck to permit viewing of the hangar deck, but that just strikes me as goofy (though it's just the sort of thing for those who are into that sort of thing). A nice lower hull with well-done machinery is also included, as is a very nice sheet of photoetched brass.
Dragon appears to be doing what Trumpeter has done, which is to produce slightly different variations of the kit, with appropriate changes in weapons fit, sensors and other details, to represent different configurations during the war. The CV-9 issue is suitable for depicting any of the initial units (i.e., Essex, Yorktown, Bunker Hill, Lexington, etc.) as they appeared through early 1943 in basic as-built configuration. The 40mm gun sponson on the stern is a separate piece, allowing you to represent the correct non-sponsoned early stern of these units. (The separate sponson hints of issues to come.) There's also pieces to represent the hangar deck catapult outriggers alongside the forward hangar deck openings.
Dragon followed this issue with a long-hull unit, USS Randolph a couple months later. Many of the notes above will apply to those kits, with appropriate changes.
These are some of the very best injection-molded ship kits I've seen, truly state-of-the-art kits that should be the basis for a thousand projects. I give them my highest recommendation. (JMP), review dated 25 July 2005
Editor's Notes: New mold, circa 2005. Released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note:Re-issue of Skywave Type 42/2, but now with full hull option. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Atlanta Class. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: The end of the Cold War has brought about some confusion in nomenclature. For many years, the Soviet/Russian Project 945 SSNs were known in the West by their NATO code name "Sierra", and DML labelled them as such. Since the end of the Cold War, we now know their correct project designation and even their internal code name, "Barracuda". (DRW)
Also Testors kit 904. Polystyrene in 1:700 scale. Includes TU-26M Backfire aircraft and Ka-27 Helix helicopters. These kits were released about the time the "Hunt for Red October" film was released, and are part of a series of constant scale submarine kits.
This kit contains a fairly decent model of the later Polaris/Poseidon missile submarine USS Ben Franklin. The overall hull shape is quite good, with the correct larger upper rudder. The sail also appears to be correct, if a bit rudimentary as to masts & cockpit features. The engraving on the deck for the missile tubes and safety rails is quite nice. The front of the "turtleback" covering over the missiles should be smoothed in with a small amount of putty. This is the area forward of the sail where the turtleback slopes to meet the hull. Retain the open slot along either side where the turtleback meets the hull. The propeller in the kit, a 4 bladed version, is totally wrong. These submarines all had 7 bladed scimitar shaped propellers. Use a photoetch version from Flagship Models (FM 700-14). Overall, though, a very credible representation of this SSBN class.
Along with the Franklin comes the Soviet Sierra class SSN (Project 945, Barracuda class). Again, this kit was prepared before definitive data was available. We now know that the Sierra does not taper as smoothly as the kit does (kit taper starts right after the sail). More than 1/3rd of the Sierra is a constant diameter hull, with hull taper beginning almost halfway further astern than the kit taper. The sail height is too low on the kit. The propeller is set back further from the stern control surfaces. Also there is a reactor cooling seawater intake scoop on the side of the hull near the bottom in the area of the engineering spaces. It would take some work to achieve an accurate Sierra class model from this kit. (TD)
Editor's Note: This kit has been re-issued by:
Editor's Note: See Kirov.
OK. This is a rework of their old USS Dallas kit, and they give you a correct stern to replace the incorrect one on the hull. You cut off the old stern with the incorrect vertical plates on the stern plane, and replace it with one that lacks these plates, has the towed array dispenser, and even correctly scribed stern plane hinges. Add to that a new propeller that is larger, closer to the real thing in shape, and turns in the right direction, unlike the old kit prop.
Unfortunately, they totally miss with the Hampton bow section and VLS tube doors. It has the wrong pattern for the doors (3+3 instead of 4+2 on each side of the centerline) and the doors are too small in width by quite a bit. (TD)
Editor's Note: Same as Spruance, below.
Editor's Note: Almost the same as Invincible. Portrays the ship in 1991. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Same as Spruance, below.
Guns Elevate: yes.
GOOD / VERY GOOD. The Ingersoll and Hewitt offer the only ASROC armed Spruances in this scale so any early year versions you wish to build will have to come from one of these. This kit shows the ships after the installation of ABL (Armored Box Launchers) for the Tomahawk cruise missile. Only four ships were so equipped. The rest of the class received the Mk 41 VLS instead.
The mast is a little thick (all of the whip antennas should be noted). These ships all had the SPS-40 air search radar, except the Hayler which had the far superior SPS-49. The refueling stations are not good at all. They are molded into the side of the superstructure and are missing a lot of detail.
This class went through only a few modifications before the end of their very short careers. The only noticeable changes made was the addition of the VLS in place of the ASROC launcher and the addition of the Mk 23 TAS on the aft mast.
Other options to consider are :
(RDF), review updated 3 August 2007.
Reissue of Skywave Independence, but now with full hull option. The lower hull tries to continue the Independence-class' large hull bulges, but the result is still a bit "boxy" No bilge keels. (DRW)
Editor's Note: DML has issued this kit as:
It has also been issued by Revell-Germany.
Portrays the ship in 1982. (DRW)
See Kirov .
Guns Elevate: yes.
EXCELLENT. The biggest problem is the missile radars. They are ok at best and with some work might be better. I hope that WEM or L' Arsenal will produce a replacement. The hull is the same hull at the other Spruance/Ticonderoga models produced by Dragon. The mast is different than those on the Spurance, but these still suffer from thickness and unless you are willing to fork out the time to build a brass one, it will have to do. All of the whip antennas should be made and installed. have to do and all of the whip antennas should be verified. The screws do not look correct. The variable pitch blades have a lot more flair on the trailing edge than those in the kit. With photo-etching (rails, radars, whip antennas hatches, etc…) will be awesome. The refueling stations are not good at all and need serious attention (I am still working on mine). Can be build as any of the four ships. There are a couple of websites with nice detailed photos for reference on fire stations, fixtures and risers.
(RDF), review updated 3 August 2007.
Editor's Note: Presumably, this is a variant of DML's Spruance kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: 2003 Update: For years, we thought this kit was only a rumor. It looks like DML/Dragon has FINALLY released it! (it's almost too bad, since in earlier editions of this list, I had funny line about the mold being stored next to the Roswell UFO and the Lost Ark........) (DRW)
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review) Crisp molding, many little bits. Feels like (and could be) a Skywave mold.
(AP) review dated February 2004.
GOOD-VERY GOOD. (based on in box review)
Note: please see my note concerning ship type designations in my review of the Trumpeter Russian Cruiser Varyag # 05721. This ship is even harder to classify than most. Functionally, the Kirovs were more like battleships or battlecruisers than anything else (they were even armored!), not to mention size, as these ships were enormous having hull sizes comparable to the USN Iowa class battleships.
Note 2: before the collapse of the Soviet Union the name of this ship was Kirov, the class leader.
Kit parts: this is an all plastic kit of 256 parts with a decal sheet of modern Russian (no Soviet era markings) flags and hull markings. Let me start off by saying that this is NOT the same kit marketed by Trumpeter. The parts are different. The Trumpeter kit also gives the option of full hull. This kit is waterline only. The parts are cleanly molded in two different types of plastic. The small parts (sprues apparently shared with other Dragon/Skywave kits) are molded in a harder, darker plastic than the remainder of the kit. This well executed and detailed kit has no apparent flaws such as sinkholes or malformed parts and is similar to other recent Dragon offerings. However, it just doesn't feel as crisp as the Trumpeter examples of the same class of ship. It is, very good, in its own right.
The crisper, cheaper Trumpeter version are a better buy.
Directions:: excellent multipage exploded views with painting directions using Creos (Gunze ?) and Italeri numbers.
Packaging: large, well decorated, thin cardboard box with parts bagged in layers.
(WJS), review dated 26 March 2008.
Editor's Notes: This kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: New mold, circa 2008. It is said to portray the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: See Essex Class. (DRW)
Editor's Note:Re-issue of Skywave Type 42/3. Not sure if it has the full hull option. Also sold as York, with the same kit number. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Probably similar to Bunker Hill, above.
Editor's Note: Presumably the same kit as Ticonderoga, below. (DRW)
See Arleigh Burke. Mustin is a Flight IIa Burke class, so one might expect this kit to be a variant of the Burke kit. (DRW)
GOOD. Tiny, good fit, painting instructions on the box are wrong. Do some research. No modifications seem necessary. Be very careful when detaching parts from sprue, they are delicate, and may lose detail if care is not taken. (RND)
I agree with Rajen. You do get two boats in the box, and you can make two Nanuchka Is, two Nanuchka IIIs, or one of each. There are enough parts. One curiousity: The kit comes with eight sets of triple SS-N-9 tubes, but only four sets of end caps for the tubes. This leaves you with four very nice spare tube sets with no end caps. Why??? As for the painting instructions, for a Soviet Nanuchka, the decks should be rust colored. Other nations may have painted their boats differently. Otherwise, the painting instructions are fine. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably the same kit as Ticonderoga, below. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably the same kit as Tarawa, below. (DRW)
FAIR/GOOD.
Note: while I can do nothing but applaud the efforts of Dragon to bring a new and heretofore unseen subject (in plastic) on the market (the pathetic attempt by Revell in 1/720 and 1/426 to rebox the Arizona kits notwithstanding), I cannot help but be somewhat disappointed by the execution.
Kit Parts: this is a plastic model that includes decals and two frets of photo etch detail parts. The hull is split at the waterline. There is no base plate for the waterline display mode as is customary among other makers. The box is absolutely jammed with more parts that I have ever seen before in a plastic kit in this scale (including a couple of PT boats). The kit has sprues from the Dragon Arizona kit and from Dragons Essex class aircraft carrier kits as well as newly molded parts specific to the Pennsylvania. You will have tons of spare parts for your surplus bin when this is done. The upper hull (I only build waterline so the lower hull went right into the trash) is in one piece up to the 01 level and is a mix of good detail (planking and deck hardware) and no detail. The hull sides are virtually devoid of any kind of surface detail even though the actual ship was covered in projections such as plated over portholes, etc., that are clearly visible in photographs of the era and even in the kit’s nicely done box art!! This kit is a catalog of frustrations like that. Although great pains were taken to attempt to achieve accuracy and realism on most of the parts the building process is flawed because it would appear that it was a bit of an afterthought. An example is found in the photo etch parts that are to be attached to the different superstructure levels to give greater detail such as portholes and doors. The fit is a little iffy and when combined with the plastic parts is too wide to accept the jam packed galleries of over scale 20 mm guns. If you attempt to follow the assembly sequence in the directions for the different levels of the forward superstructure you will have those 20s flying around the room along with the choice words you will be muttering. Getting the foremast aligned and level is a real challenge as the alignment holes and slots tend to exert pressure on the whole assembly to tilt backwards to the stern. A few parts were also mislocated on sprues (the directions called for sprues that were not in the kit). The 40 mm guns were easy to assemble but seemed a bit oversimplified. Back to the 20 mm guns for a moment, in a addition to being over scale and too big for the superstructure they are somewhat strangely cast. The barrel and receiver being one part and the shield and pedestal as one part cast together. There are 53 of these assemblies to remove and assemble so this is no small matter. This method of casting the shields integrally with the pedestals aggravates the over scale effect considerably and could have been avoided had the barrel, receiver and pedestal been cast as one with a photo etch shield to be attached. The photo etch (in very hard brass, that folded well when fold lines were included) provided is fairly extensive, going so far as to include a full set of two bar and three bar railings as well as many other parts but strangely omits the aircraft catapult. You will have to buy a supplementary photo etch set just for that or be satisfied with having a clunky plastic catapult right next to a nicely etched and detailed crane on the stern.
I cannot caution the builder of this kit enough, test, test and retest the fit of every part and level before picking up the glue. Before painting be sure to remove the persistent mold release agent on the plastic which resisted my usual dish detergent wash and caused fish eyes in the acrylic paint I was using. I was disappointed in the fit of the superstructure parts, the over scale 20 mm guns and the lack of detail on the hull sides. However, so much of the rest of the kit was quite good that those defects seemed to be magnified. Bear in mind that your only other choice (at this time anyway) is an expensive resin kit. A newbie will find this kit frustrating and an old hand will be annoyed by the glitches.
(WJS), review dated 2 April 2008.
Editor's Notes: This kit (or close variants of it) has been issued as:
EXCELLENT. Really nice. Re-issue of Skywave, but now with lower hull. One warning though: I compared the lower hull with the drawing of FFG-8 in Norman Friedman's "US Destroyers: an Illustrated Design History", and the bilge keels in the kit do NOT match those in Friedman's book. Now, Friedman did indicate that "later units" would have fin stabilizers, and that seems to be what DML is trying to reproduce here. I don't know if the early units were retrofitted with fin stabilizers, so we can't be sure if the bilge keels and fin stabilizers are correct for FFG-7 and 8 at any point in their careers. Caveat Emptor!! (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Atlanta Class. (DRW)
The kit's overall appearance depends about 99% on how well you assemble and fill/sand the three main pieces (port hull piece, starboard hull piece, "hump" above missle tubes). The fit is OK out of the box with careful gluing but you will need to fill and sand. Do it right and the kit looks great. Do it wrong...
Detail is good, with decals for the periscope camo designs, depth marking and hull markings. You can assemble the 24 missle tube hatches open or closed. You get a choice of two types, four missles of two vintages to display in the tube or alongside. For no clear reason you also get two 1/350 Seahawks, soft on detail but with full decal sets.
Painting instructions only give one scheme, anti-fouling red up 3/4 of the hull with number markings on the sail. You'll need your own photos if you want to show the sub otherwise. Decals are provided for the whole class' numbering.
A fun kit to build, requiring only a couple of evenings. The finished kit is big and nasty looking, a nice piece on the shelf. (PVB)
This kit has some nice detail, although the fit of the parts is less than perfect in some instances. Includes opening door assemblies for all 24 missle tubes. Door hinges were a bit akward to get to work right and be straight, required some careful trimming of parts. Kit includes option of Trident or Trident II missles, no way except gravity to get them out of tubes. I capped the tubes with caps provided. Kit also includes torpedos, which can only be shown in process of launching. Also includes two Seahawk helicopters, not sure how to use these. The landing gear struts for the Seahawks were placed on the sprue in such a way that two of them broke in two while attempting to cut them off sprue. Made replacements from two of the four torpedos.
Kit includes decals for camo job on optional masts/periscopes, and numbers for all of the Ohio class boats.
(LDF), review dated 26 February 2006.
GOOD. The T-girl went together quite nicely, but it was a bit harder to get the two hull halves of the big Oscar-class SSGN to go together smoothly.
After seeing more recent sketches of Oscar-class SSGNs in light of the Kursk disaster, I'm even more suspicious of the hull cross-section on the DML kit. The DML kit's cross section is squarish with rounded corners. Sketches I've seen recently suggest that the hull cross-section of an Oscar-class is more oval shaped. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Kirov. As of late 2003, we can finally confirm the existance of this kit.(DRW)
See Independence class.
Editor's Note: Variant of Spruance, below.
EXCELLENT. Great. This is a Dragon Spruance with the updated RRCS (Reduced Radar Cross Section) mast. This was installed to test some of the original design ideals later incorporated in the new LPD ships now being built in the New Orleans area.
I had planned a conversion for this very ship but Dragon beat me to it! Thank God!
Great addition and smart move by Dragon. Probably cost nothing to add this to the kit. The parts for the Spruance are still in the box. The same flaws mentioned for the Kidd still apply.
(RDF), review updated 3 August 2007.
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
This kit depicts the Radford after her conversion to an experimental program of design sometime in 1998 for the DDX program testing stealth masts and radar arrays. It makes for one weird looking ship that I just had to have for my collection.
This is a plastic kit that includes a small fret of photo etch radar/sensor components and two decal sheets of warning circles, flags and hull markings. Strangely enough the decals do not include the squared off warning and landing zones. Those consist of raised lines cast into the deck that have to be painted in. The upper hull is cast as one piece with the deck except for an insert of bow decking. A portion of the superstructure is cast into the deck. There were no sink holes or indentations in my kit but I have seen others that have had them. The lower hull is a package of parts from the Ticonderoga kit that has the lower hull split vertically. The upper hull is cast smooth on both sides and aft. The modeler will need to consult plans or photographs to add the necessary hull detail from plastic stock (which, in this scale, isn't all that much, but still quite prominent in the photographs of the ships). The parts are very well cast and flash free with good surface detail.
This is a very nice kit that I would recommend to anyone looking for more modern subject matter than the usual WW2 subject. The direction are easy to follow although I would suggest that the modeler take care with the painting suggestions and follow up with some photographic research to pick out details.
(WJS), review dated 2 April 2008.
Editor's Note: Variant of Spruance, below, wth updated RCS mast. Issued circa 2006.
Editor's Note: See Essex Class. (DRW)
See Arleigh Burke. Roosevelt is a Flight IIa Burke class, so one might expect this kit to be a variant of the Burke kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Atlanta Class. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Atlanta Class. (DRW)
EXCELLENT Basically same kit as the Tarawa, but with a later weapons fit and the parts from the Marine Amphibious Force kit, giving the ship a more up-to-date airwing, including Harriers, LCACs and even V-22. Still no RAM launchers, so you'll have to scratch-build them to make a current LHA. Gold Medal and Flagship both make large upgrade PE sets. (JP)
Editor's Note: Announced 2010.
Editor's Note: Re-issue of Skywave Type 42/1, but now with full hull option. Lower hull is a bit wide, and must be trimmed to fit correctly. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Re-issue of Perry Class, with different decals. Kit also includes markings for HMAS Adelaide & HMAS Canberra (DRW)
Editor's Note: Aparently, this is a re-issue of Skywave Sovremenny. (DRW)
GOOD. This kit offers the best VLS armed Spruance in this scale so any versions you wish after the US modified them should come from this one. The mast is a little thick (all of the whip antennas should be noted) and refueling stations are not good at all and need serious attention. Other options to consider are:
GOOD/VERY GOOD.
This is an all plastic kit with a set of decals for deck markings and hull markings. The hull, while molded as a full hull has provision inside for the waterline modeler to score along a plastic guide point to waterline the ship and affix a waterline plate underneath, which I did as I prefer waterline models, it wasn't difficult at all for those thinking about it. The kit components were for the most part cleanly molded and well detailed. The kit masts are too thick but serviceable. I added a Gold Medal Models photo etch detail set to mine and it improved the kit immeasurably. You will also need some plastic or metal rod to simulate the multiple antennae this ships were equipped with. The only quibbles I had with the ship were problems in assembly and using the decals. Normally for ships of this type I will assemble the components separately before painting to make that easier which I did so here. Unfortunately, with this ship there is a problem aligning the forward part of the superstructure with the deck. It isn't a deal killer by any means but be sure to work that out before painting or assemble the parts to the deck before painting. Yeah, I did it backwards on this one. Some of the warning circle decals need to be trimmed down in size in order to fit on the deck where they are supposed to. Mine was one of the original issue kits and later moldings may not have either of these problems.
Directions and packaging are very good.
(WJS), review dated 14 April 2008.
Editor's Notes: This kit has been released as:
Also note the DML's related Kidd Class.
Editor's Note: Re-issue of Skywave Spruance, but now with full hull option. The lower hull is reasonably nice. It's in two main pieces, split along the keel. The SQS-53 sonar dome looks pretty good, although it might be pushed a little too far forward. The bilge keels are kind of heavy, but acceptable. (DRW)
This kit has been released as:
See also the following related kits:
For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. Again, painting instructions are faulty!! (RND)
GOOD. Like the Nanuchkas, the decks should be painted a rust color instead of blue-grey, at least for a Soviet boat. Other nations may have painted theirs differently. With a Skywave Soviet Weapons set, you should be able to make a Taruntul III (Project 1241.7) without too much difficulty. You get two Tarantuls and two Osas in this kit. This kit is cheap and easy to assemble. I like it! (DRW)
GOOD/EXCELLENT. Some parts need additional detailing such as the hangar and well deck, unless you decide to close them up. You have to buy their US Marine Amphibious Force "upgrade" kit to get Harriers and LCACS, since this is an "as-built" model with standard landing craft and LVTPs, no Harriers, and the original defensive armament of Sea Sparrow and Phalanx. The weaponry will need an upgrade, though nobody makes a 1/700 RAM launcher.
(JP) Review dated 28 May 1997
This kit has been released as:
(see Oscar vs. Trafalgar)
Similar to Bunker Hill, above.
Editor's Notes: Re-issue of Skywave Ticonderoga, but now with full hull option. As one might expect, it uses the same lower hull from the Spruance class kits. (DRW)
This kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Presumably a close relative of DML's Bismarck kit. Issued around 2004. (DRW)
(see Dallas vs. Typhoon)
Editor's Notes: The end of the Cold War has brought about some confusion in nomenclature. For many years, the Soviet/Russian Project 941 SSBNs were known in the West by their NATO code name "Typhoon", and DML labelled them as such. Since the end of the Cold War, we have learned their correct project designation and even their internal code name, "Akula" The Project 941 SSBNs (Russian "Akula", NATO "Typhoon") should not be confused with the Project 971 SSNs. (Russian "Shchuka-B", NATO "Akula") (DRW)
FAIR. The stern is completely fictitous. I have sent a number of people the corrected stern drawings. The big central beavertail diving plane doesn't exist on the real thing. Instead, there are two smaller stern planes abaft the propellers, and the propellers are shrouded. A few other items also need attention. Overall grade B- for the kit. (TD)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
VERY GOOD. Contains 2 CH-53E, 4 CH-46E, 2 AH-1W, 4 AV-8B, 2 V-22(!), 2 LVTP-7 landing craft, 2 M60A3 tanks, 2 LCM-6 landing craft and an LCAC. Good detail, slightly outdated paint jobs since US is repainting aircraft (again), and Marines are getting M-1s. Perfect for mid-80s to mid-90s, plus bonus of the V-22s. (JP)
Editor's Note:Re-issue of Skywave Type 42/3. I'm not sure if it has the full hull option. Also sold as Manchester, with the same kit number. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. This kit must have had a very limited release in the US. Package includes one P-3C and two HSS-2B Seakings, all in Japanese markings. The aircraft at least are all ex-Skywave but suffer a loss of detail in the retooling. However, details on the subs are quite good. If you've never seen a Delta before, it's the one with the huge, squared off missle compartment that extends far above the main pressure hull and meets the back side of the conning tower. As in other kits, one tube can be positioned "open" with an SSBM perched above it. The Yushio is quite small (similar to a Soviet Alpha). You will spend more time placing all the extremely tiny decals on the aircraft than in building the subs. Be prepared to experiment with your sub weathering techniques and using a decal setting solution to get those sub marking "unshiny" is a must.
(author unknown)
EXCELLENT. Also issued by Testors/Italeri, this kit was one of DML's submarine adversary series of the 1980s. The kit includes two full hull subs, an ex-Skywave P-3C Orion and two HSS-2B Sea King helicopters. The submarines are very nice with accurate outlines and delicately rendered surface details, building into convincing models right out of the box. I believe this is the only Soviet Delta III SSBN available in 1/700, and the DMLYushio is noticeably more delicate than the more recently released Arii and Pit-Road versions of the sub. I have only a few quibbles: first, the hulls are split horizontally below the surfaced waterlines and the fit is only so-so, making hiding the seams along those curved surfaces more difficult than necessary. Also, the Soviet Delta III SSBN has one tube designed to be shown in the open position with a missile, which is great, except if you want to depict it buttoned up. Then it is almost impossible to create a door/hull join that looks the same as the others. These nitpicks aside, both kits build without undue fuss into excellent little submarines.
(TR) Review dated 31 December 2008.
EXCELLENT. (with a Huge Caveat)
The kit depicts one the Kreigsmarine’s really big destroyers. It can be built as it served in the German Navy or as it was with the USN after the war. This is one of Dragon’s Smart Kit series which features slide mold technology and extreme detail, more about that later.
Parts: This is an injection molded kit with three frets of photo etched brass detail parts. The brass parts do not include railings. A fret of exquisitely molded sailors in various poses and a display stand for the full hull version is included as well. A waterline plate is included. The plastic parts are perfectly molded and loaded with detail, all in all, a beautiful example of current mold technology. Also in keeping with current technology the brass parts are integral to completing the kit rather than supplementary, this has serious consequences for the ten-thumbed among us. Fit of the plastic parts is excellent, again with a caveat. Dragon has presented a kit that is quite complex. Before buying this kit it is imperative that you consider this complexity. A good example of this can be found in the AA guns. In step one of the instructions the builder must assemble 12 AA guns. The first four "A" have no less than 16 separate parts six of which are photo etched. Five of the PE parts are about the size of the roller ball in a .5 mm pen, but flat! Some of the plastic parts are so tiny I was unable to clearly discern the the attachment points with a magnified headpiece on! Trimming the excess plastic from the parts was a nightmare. The rest of the guns weren’t quite as bad ("B" has 9 pieces, "C" has 14 pieces, "D" has 14 and "E" has 14). Note that each one of these subassemblies builds up into a weapon that is about a quarter of an inch. If you are not comfortable with working with extremely delicate and tiny parts do not buy this kit. Other assemblies such as the stacks are similarly complex.
Directions: lots of line drawings but somewhat confusing at times with the callout of the required parts in each step. Careful consideration of assembly order should be considered for painting purposes. Two color schemes are included, one for the late war KM and the other for the USN service.
Packaging: The usual thin cardboard box and plastic wrapped sprues. Unless horribly abused there should be no chance of damage to the parts from poor packaging.
The result, if you have the abilities required will be a spectacular model of this workhorse ship of the German Navy. Less than expertly skilled modelers should probably look to the competing Trumpeter kits. I have not found this kit to be at all fun, rather, it is more akin to micro surgery on gnats for my taste.
(WJS), review dated 24 January 2012.
Editor's Note: Apparently, this kit was re-issued by a company named Yamada, but I have very little information on them. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Apparently, re-issued by UPC.
| Borodino | Royal Sovereign | South Goodwin (lightship) | Suvorov | Tiger |
Editor's Note: New mold, circa 2005. I don't know if this is any relation to the ICM Suvorov (Borodino class) that never turned up.....
Old FROG Trinity Lightship mold.
Old FROG Revenge mold.
Editor's Note: See Borodino Class.
Editor's Note: old FROG Tiger mold.
I've seen two addresses for Eagle, one in Surrey, and one in Brighton. Perhaps the company moved at some point.
Eagle has been out of business for decades. I do not know the fate of their molds.
Thanks to John Phillip Downing for his help in tracking down the information on Eagle. Thanks also to Donald Hood, for assistance and several corrections. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Quite rare. It was basically the Eagle HMS Warspite in an Eagle HMS Valiant box with Barham instructions. Only a few are known to exist. It is not know whether or not there was any overprint label on the outside of the box to indicate the HMS Barham contents. (DDH)
Editor's Notes: Apparently, Eagle released this kit as:
It has been reissued by:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: Apparently, Eagle released this kit as:
It has been reissued by:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: See notes under King George V
Editor's Notes: Said to be very rare. .
Editor's Notes: See notes under Lützow.
Editor's Note: Said to have about 25 parts. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Presumably, the following kits are closely related:
Editor's Notes: Apparently, Eagle released this kit as:
It has been reissued by:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: Presumably, the following kits are closely related:
Editor's Note: See notes under Dorsetshire.
Editor's Notes: See notes under King George V
Editor's Notes: Presumably very similar to the Admiral Hipper. Said to have about 40 parts. For comparison, check out
Editor's Note: See notes under Lützow.
Editor's Note: Presumably the same as Bismarck. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably the same as Formidable. (DRW)
(TR) Review dated 22 March 2007.
| Enterprise | Essex | Hood | Illustrious |
| Lexington | Missouri | New Jersey | Tirpitz |
GOOD. Reissue of rare 1970s Bandai Hood (kit 23).
(TR), review dated April 20, 2007.
GOOD. Reissue from the "1/2000 Navy Collection" by Bandai in the 1970s, now produced in China by Eka (aka Fuzhou Yijia Plastic Products Co. Ltd.). The kit depicts the ship as she appeared during her World War Two service with a straight flight deck and Swordfish aircraft embarked. Measuring less than four and one half inches in length, this is a very small model. It is, however, surprisingly well detailed, consisting of 40 well molded gray and red plastic parts. As with the other kits in the series, it can be built either waterline or full hull using a separate two-part underwater section molded in red. Basic shapes are accurately reproduced, with island and funnel dimensions dead-on. The hull outline is correct also, with the prominent sponsons, recessed boat decks, and the characteristic knuckles forward all well captured. The lower hull includes a rudder and bilge keels but no propellers or shafts. Surface detailing is quite good throughout, with attractive raised porthole, roll-door, armor belt, and other details on the hull sides. The flight deck is especially nice, with delicate raised arrestor gear, lifts, and catapults. Unfortunately, the 8-barrelled MkVI 2pdr pom-poms are also represented as raised details, making them a bit flat. The eight separately molded QF 4.5 inch L/45 mounts are more successful, as are the four tiny directors, which are excellent. Like Revell's much maligned 1/720 scale Ark Royal the ship's boats are molded directly into the hull, but in 1/2000 this approach actually works pretty well. Smaller components such as the masts, antennae, cranes and two Swordfish aircraft are all separate parts, simplified but credibly rendered. They look good once painted.
Especially considering its size, this little Illustrious is a nicely done model kit, well worth a build, if you can find one!
(TR), review dated 8 June 2007.
(TR) April 2010.
VERY GOOD. This is the 1959 Revell Olympia kit reissued in gray plastic. It also includes an excellent photoetch set mastered by Flyhawk of China, resin bow and stern torpedo tube covers, and resin propellers. The high quality upgrade parts make this already good kit even better.
(TR) Review dated January 2012.
VERY GOOD/EXCELLENT. This is the 1959 Revell Olympia kit in gray plastic and including the photo-etched parts and resin corrections of Encore kit #80001 above. In addition, there are beautiful Flyhawk laminate wood decks, turned brass replacement gun barrels, white metal details, and a wood base with brass stands and nameplate. The instructions have also been upgraded (with additional graphics, color, and on slick paper) to guide construction using the new parts. It is fun to see this old (out of production since 1999) kit back in production, and the state of the art upgrades Encore has provided bring this already good kit up to a whole new standard!
(TR) Review dated January 2012.
The Encore release again repeats the same plastic parts as the other issues, but this issue features good quality Scale Master decals with conning tower numbers, bridge windows, Guards insignia, emergency buoy markings, and Soviet naval ensigns. It also has good English language instructions with concise class histories and useful painting information for Baltic Sea Fleet, Northern Fleet, and Black Sea Fleet boats.
(TR) Review dated April 2010.
Editor's Note: Apparently, this is a re-issue of the Gunze Sangyo kit.
POOR/FAIR. Date unknown but from enclosed advertising no earlier than 1970, probably mid-late 1970s. Black hull, no copper plate detail, hull has linear plank engraving only, missing entire lower deck gun ports as even closed engravings. Medium brown plastic for masts, deck, small fittings. Fragile yardarms are not well protected in sprue layout and mine have suffered bendings of their ends in some cases, and the photo on the box shows that the prototype kit built for the photography suffered similar damage! Very crude vac-form sails. Overscale molded brown ratlines. The enclosed stand and the molding style bears strong resemblance to the Pyro sailing ship kits, but I don't recall if they had a VICTORY.
Model was made in Japan. (Brooks), review dated 20 February 2006.
Editor's Note: I'm not sure if this is a re-issue, but there was indeed a Pyro Victory. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Casadio mold. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Casadio mold. Read Tim Reynaga's review of the Revell re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Casadio mold. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Casadio mold. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue c.1983 of the old Casadio mold. Read Tim Reynaga's review of the Revell re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue c.1983 of the old Casadio mold. Read Tim Reynaga's review of the MPC re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
Ko-hyoteki (Ha-class) midget submarine variant used in the attack on Pearl Harbor.
Ko-hyoteki (Ha-class) midget submarine variant used in the attack on Sydney Harbor.
The kit includes two Kaiten models.
EXCELLENT. This is a special issue of the Kaiten kit to go along with the 2006 Japanese movie Deguchi no nai umi (Sea Without Exit). This limited edition is presumably identical to the dual kit above (it even has the same kit number) except that it comes with only a single Kaiten sub plus some printed info about the movie.
Blandly designated by the Imperial Japanese Navy as the "type 1 special attack craft", the Kaiten was little more than a standard "long lance" torpedo with a redesigned forward section to accommodate a pilot and an enlarged warhead. Even in 1/72 scale, this makes for a model of only slightly more than eight inches in length. Fine Molds captures the dimensions and shape of the little sub perfectly with 15 sharply molded parts which assemble easily. Despite the simplicity of the design, the kit parts have a surprising amount of discreet surface texture including rivets, weld lines, lifting points and other details. The model builds up quickly, the simple configuration showing just the right amount of detail. Painting instructions and markings are provided for three Kaitens: "operationally deployed" with black hull and a small white chrysanthemum marking, "training markings" with black hull, white upper and small white numbers "3" or "10" and a chrysanthemum, or "launching test from Kitikami February 1945" with black hull and a small white stripe forward. Also included in the kit is a simple 13 part rail dolly on which to display the Kaiten.
As ship model subjects go, the Kaiten human torpedo has got to be among the more obscure. Other than the miniscule versions included with a few 1/700 and 1/350 submarine kits, the only other offering I am aware of is the Kaiten type 2 subs included with the Lindberg 1/72 scale I-53. That one isn't bad, but this version of the earlier type 1 is noticeably finer and more detailed. Fine Molds' 1/72 Kaiten is an outstanding kit, a straightforward and well detailed study of this unusual little monster.
(TR) review dated 30 January 2010.
After FROG's demise, their molds went to the Soviet Union, where they were manufactured under the Novo label. Sadly, the molds were not well maintained. Their current status is unknown. Some of the Soviet made kits had lots of flash, plus other problems. Revell-Germany obtained the Revenge mold, and they have re-issued it as the Royal Sovereign. Revell seems to have cleaned up the mold somewhat. I don't know if Revell will re-issue any of the other FROG ships. FROG kits have also been re-issued under the Eastern Express label.
FROG is an acronym for "Flies Right Off the Ground". FROG ships are characterized by their 1/500 scale, two piece hulls, and distinctive four piece stands. (DRW)
Most of these FROG ships were sold in the US in the 1960s by UPC. I also remember from the 1960s having built a small multi-masted sailing ship, probably a Japanese kit, imported by UPC.
| Ashanti | Battle-class | Exeter | Hero | North Carolina |
| North Sea Lifeboat | Prince of Wales | Repulse | Revenge | Shell Welder |
| SouthGoodwin | Springfield | Tiger | Torquay | Trafalgar |
| Undine | Vanguard |
GOOD. The torpedo tubes look a little cheesy, but otherwise a good kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Different issue of Trafalgar. (see below) The hull is said to be about 14 inches long. (DRW)
GOOD/EXCELLENT. Just remember that this is the Exeter in her last configuration, not as she appeared in her legendary battle with the Graf Spee. (DRW)
GOOD. Depicts post 1939 fit, after Battle of River Plate repairs - increased AA. With addition of detail makes an excellent model. (GH)
Editor's Notes: Re-issued by:
GOOD. I had some problems fitting the deck correctly, and the torpedo tubes look a little cheesy, but otherwise a good kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Apparently a reissue of the Renwal North Carolina.(DRW)
Editor's Note: I don't know much about this one. The hull is said to be about 9.5 inches long. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably, reissue of Airfix King George V kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of Airfix Repulse kit. (DRW)
GOOD. The superstructure lacks a few details, and there are no bilge keels, but overall, very nice. The 4 inch guns are rather odd: they sit on high tubular structures, sort of like very tall barbettes. These can be cut down with little difficulty. The deck does not seal nicely in the area of the casemate guns.
Still, a very worthwhile kit, especially for its age.
Novo also marketed this kit as Royal Sovereign/Archangelsk, but the forward superstructure is not accurate for that ship. (DRW)
OK. Generally good, but moulding of small parts are oversize. (GH)
As far as the basics, it is all there and reasonably accurate. The fit of the parts is typical Frog/Airfix of the time, especially the secondary armament casemates joins, which can leave a huge gap. Details are heavy, the twin 4" AA a bit on the molten blob with the part hidden deep in its depths (for a Michelangelo to free). But the kit is good and with the normal levels of skills on this list will make a good representation. A little scratchbuilding and some detail parts, and a contest winner resides therein. (MS)
Editor's Notes: Re-issued by:
Editor's Notes: Re-issued by:
Editor's Note: Apparently a reissue of the Renwal Modified Cleveland.(DRW)
OK. Larger version of same ship as Airfix kit. Instead of lattice parts or solid opaque plastic for lattice masts, the parts of the masts that are lattices are molded in transparent plastic and the lattices are decals! Detail typical of other Frogs. (Brooks)
Editor's Notes: Re-issued by:
GOOD. Nicer appearance than Airfix destroyer-type models. Even attempts (out of scale) whip antennae. Was also sold as UPC in 1960s- 1970s. (Brooks)
Editor's Note: Also issued as Battle Class. Hull is said to be about 14 inches long. (DRW)
GOOD. (DRW)
GOOD. Nicer appearance than Airfix destroyer-type models. 1950s conversion of late War Emergency class destroyers to ASW frigates. Unusual appearance makes for an interesting model. Was also sold as UPC in 1960s- 1970s. (Brooks)
Editor's Note: I've only seen pictures and text descriptions of this one, but it looks almost exactly like the Hasegawa Vanguard. It may pre-date the Hasegawa version, but I'm not sure. Hull is said to be 22.375 inches long, which is exactly the same as the Hasegawa. (DRW)
GOOD.
Includes Zero (4x), Val (4x) and Kate (4x) per sprue. Comparable to Tamiya/Hasegawa kits. Planes are reasonably detailed, lacking gear. Molded in gray plastic. Two sprues per kit if packaged alone, doubling number of aircraft. One sprue molded in clear plastic is included in Zuikaku and Shokaku kits.
(AS), Review dated 8 April 2010.
GOOD.
Includes Seafire (4x), Sea Fury (4), Gannet (3x) and Wessex (2x) per sprue. Planes are reasonably detailed, with interesting feature for Gannet to have wings folded properly. No landing gear like in most of the Skywave kits, so you have to use PE parts. Wessex has too simplistic gear and too rough chopper, both should be replaced by WEM's PE parts. This aircraft set is supposed to complete airwings in Ark Royal and Eagle kits as of 1950's. Molded in gray plastic when packaged alone, containes two sprues, doubling number of aircraft. Ark Royal and Eagle have just one clear plastic sprue. Keep in mind that clear plastic is brittle!
(AS), Review dated 8 April 2010.
GOOD.
Includes Wildcat (4x), Dauntless (4x) and Devastator (4x) per sprue. Comparable to Tamiya/Hasegawa kits. Planes are reasonably detailed, lacking gear. Molded in gray plastic. Two sprues per kit if packaged alone. No clear plastic versions observed.
(AS), Review dated 8 April 2010.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: this kit portrays the ship as she would have been completed. However, she never was. This vessel, (and sister ship Akagi) originally designed to be a battlecruiser, fell victim to the Washington Naval Arms Conference and agreements of 1922, and like Lexington and Saratoga in the USN was chosen by the IJN for conversion to an aircraft carrier. Fate was not kind to this ship as the hull was so seriously damaged in an earthquake that the conversion was abandoned and the ship scrapped. So, this is a ship that never was. I confess to a weakness for these and have bought resin models of other ships that never made it from the builders.
Kit Parts: this is an injection molded kit with a metal weight for the waterline plate and a decal sheet for the aircraft and flags. All parts except for the aircraft are molded in dark gray plastic. The aircraft is molded in brittle, hard to work with, clear plastic. This is one of the best Fujimi 1/700 kits I have ever seen. Molding is first rate with lots of surface detail that is crisp and cleanly molded. Planking is etched and has butt ends molded in an appropriate pattern. This is a beautifully crafted kit. The only quibble I have concerns the main battery gun barrels as these have an exaggerated flare at the muzzles. The parts are fine and delicate and will need care when being removed from their sprues. This is not a shake and bake kit. You will need to take your time to do this right. You will most certainly want to alter the construction sequence suggested in the directions to facilitate the painting of this ship.
This is a must buy for any IJN fan or fan of the ships that never were. This kit is a huge improvement over any previous Fujimi 1/700 kit I have ever seen.
(WJS), review dated 23 September 2011.
OK. Fair overall but bare superstructure and hull (need to drill portholes), bad light AA, and overscale masts, davits, main guns etc. Hull excellent. Lots of flash on sprues. Late war fit. (GH)
FAIR. This kit has some serious fit problems. Detail is reasonably good, though. Represents the ship in the 1950s, with early angle deck. (DRW)
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: Kit materials claim ship fit to be 1939, prior to taking for Japanese Naval service in 1941. Also marketed as Argentina Maru.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded kit that includes a metal weight for the waterline plate, decals for striping, names and flags and a supplementary photo etch set for davits and ship’s boats supports. The light gray, slightly soft plastic is cleanly molded. There is no flash anywhere on the kit parts. Deck detail if fair to good with planking being provided by raised continuous lines. While somewhat reminiscent of the Aoshima passenger marus this kit is an improvement over them. While certainly not a state of the art kit it will build up into something decent. The quality of the molding and detail is a huge improvement over some of their previous kits like Hosho.
Kudos to Fujimi for their pursuit of passenger ships from the era, but, given the state of the art in injection molding these days also a bit of a disappointment.
(WJS), review dated 23 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: This kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
FAIR. Identical kit to Tone. (GH)
see Kitty Hawk-class.
GOOD.
Hull lines are accurate, deck details are up to present standards. Secondary 5,9" guns are molded with turrets. One aircraft is included.
(AS), Review dated 8 April 2010.
Editor's Notes: Presumably variants have been issued as
For comparison, check out the following:
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: This kit is equipped with fittings for the last year of the ship’s life before being sunk. Fujimi also has available Yamashiro in this scale which is in 1943 fit.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded plastic model. Parts are provided in mostly dark gray plastic with additional parts in clear for aircraft and ship’s boats and black for the display stand. A sprue of poly caps is provided to aid in turret rotation. Additional parts provided for my early edition kit were brass main battery gun barrels and hundreds of 3D crew figures. Decals and a flag sheet were also included. No photo etch was included. It would appear that Fujimi has adopted the Hasegawa practice of issuing supplementary detail sets such as photo etch and real wood decking for the modeler looking for greater detail (and possessing a FAT wallet). The parts provided in the kit are so well done and the detail present is so fine that I believe that the vast majority of modelers of this kit will simply buy and be satisfied with a supplementary set of photo etch railings. If you have AMS (Advance Modeler Syndrome) you’ll never be happy with anything other than the full monte for this kit anyway but the rest of us should be just fine.
All parts are clean and crisply molded with no flash or misaligned joints. Surface detail is excellent. The ship’s two piece hull is nicely detailed with more subtle plating detail than the Hasegawa kits I have seen. I can’t say if the pattern is correct only the look and feel. The deck is cast in a single piece so there are no seams to join and fill. Deck detail is crisp with incised plank lines with butt ends. Most deck equipment is applied separately so painting the deck will be easier than usual. Weapons are well cast and contain good detail. This is a first rate kit that is a credit to the toolmaker’s art.
My only quibble with this kit revolves around waterlining. I don’t build full hull ships so I prefer options for a waterline model. This kit does not have them. There is no incised line on the inside of the two piece hull nor is there is a raised line for the boot topping on the outside. Taking a saw to this hull will be complicated by the bracing system Fujimi has employed. There are twelve bulkheads and two braces to be glued to the upper and lower hull areas for stiffening that will cause grief to the waterline crowd. I’m not saying it can’t be done, just that it won’t be easy.
Directions: large format black and white exploded line drawings in a multi-page booklet with most text in Japanese. Color call outs appear to be for Creos Aqueous and Mr Color paints. The drawings appear to be clear and unambiguous, you won’t need the text. Painting instructions are provided by a huge, poster sized color rendition of the model.
Packaging: Large, colorful but thin cardboard box into which all the parts have been dumped without any barriers or buffers. All parts are bagged so plastic rash is minimized. Excellent box top art is provided as well as photos on the sides of the completed model. All in all the exterior packaging is pleasing and makes you want to buy this kit (unlike the simply awful photos found on the exterior bottom of the recently released Zvezda Dreadnought).
I never thought I would see the day that a kit of Fuso or Yamashiro for that matter, would be released in a large scale but here it is. Not only do we have a kit in 1/350, we have one that is brilliantly executed, the only down side is price. These kits are selling in the same price range as domestic (US) resin kits.
(WJS), review dated 13 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: New mold, circa 2011. Portrays the ship in 1944. This kit, or close variants, has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. Old molding reviewed. Excellent hull and reasonable superstructure detail. Certainly early 1939 fit (searchlight in front of bridge), but AA guns not included. (GH)
Editor's Notes: Presumably a variant of their Deutchland kit.
For comparison, check out these kits:
see Fujimi Burke-Class.
Editor's Note: See notes under 1/350 Kongo.
Note:Presumably identical to Kirishima No.5S4. (MMS).
FAIR. Late war fit. Rear superstructure is correct, but AA layout is wrong. Comments for Kongo apply. (GH)
Note:Presumably identical to Kirishima No.5S4. (MMS).
FAIR.
Very basic kit. Not much details. As it is said in instructions, detailing is up to builder. No aircraft included.
(AS), Review dated 8 April 2010.
FAIR. (based on in box review)
Note: there are several versions of this kit floating around out there as it has been reissued several times by Fujimi with different parts included in the box. This kit is one of the first issues, check carefully the one you buy as these remarks may not apply.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded plastic kit (in the darkest gray plastic I’ve seen in a long time). The only other materials provided are a metal weight for the hull plate and a decal sheet for the aircraft. Given the rather recent vintage of this molding this kit is a disappointment. The hull is featureless without even portholes molded in (a line drawing is included so you can drill them yourself, oh goody!). The parts have a good bit of flash on them and are a mixture of nicely molded bits and blobs of plastic. The included aircraft are to be kind, indistinct. The whole kit just seems clumsy and a throwback to the 1970s.
The directions are decent enough being a combination of English and Japanese instructions and fairly clear line drawings. Painting instructions are also included. The canned history provided in the directions doesn’t make clear what the fit of the model is but the downward curved flight deck and island indicate the early fit.
Most modelers of IJN subjects will want a Hosho because of its unique status as the first purpose built aircraft carrier to be completed in the world, but, they probably don’t want this one. Later editions may be better. You can make a decent model out of this but it will be a major project.
(WJS), review dated 23 September 2011.
Editor's Note: I believe that Bill built 43084, which portrays the ship in 1922. I think that Alex built 43083, which is related.
Editor's Notes: This kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: New mold, circa 2009.
FAIR. Modified Nagara class, conversion to AA cruiser, with twin 5" guns. Same applies as to Nagara. I would say Fujimi simply added a few extra parts to Nagara or Natori kit to make this modification. Compare Tamiya issue. (GH)
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: this kit contains parts to build three different IJN tankers: Itsukushima, Kyuuei and Kenyou Maru. Fujimi has a number of different auxiliaries such as this tanker kit on the market. They share parts among them.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded kit with a metal weight for the waterline plate, decals for names and flags and a good sized photo etch fret for windows, davits, platform supports and railings. Parts are clean and crisp with no flash. Surface detail is good. Hull has a somewhat exaggerated plating detail molded in but it’s livable. Deck detail is good with planking simulated by raised continuous lines (no butt ends) in the appropriate places. Masts, booms and king posts are finely molded and very delicate. Vents are a little chunky but usable. The only real problem I see is for the non-Japanese speaker trying to clarify the instructions. There are no assembly instructions for the ship variants in English. You will have to match up the Japanese characters to the ship names on the front of the instructions to make the variants correctly. Same goes for the painting instructions. I haven’t built any of these tanker types from Fujimi but this kit appears to be better than similar items from Skywave that I have built.
Kudos to Fujimi for producing kits of tankers. Previously these subjects could only be found in resin kits. For the modeler who wants to give his IJN fleet legs to go beyond home waters this kit is a necessity.
(WJS), review dated 23 September 2011.
OK - bordering on FAIR (based on in-box inspection) Two-piece hull - split along waterline - typical of same (or similar) scale Nichimo, Bachman and Bandai kits. Motorized, with two (highly inaccurate) skeg-like sheaths for prop shafts, no option to convert to static model (although skegs easily removed and holes filled). Torpedo bulge too low, does not blend properly into armor belt on upper hull piece; bilge keels absent. Upper hull better; armor belt 25% too high but includes vent pipes, deeply indented "Nichimo-type" portholes above. Molded-on railings detract, deck planking coarse (~1.75 scale feet wide) and defined by raised lines (not scribed groves), however relief crisp - a la Revell 1/480 Arizona, only more so. Planking carried all the way forward and astern and deck fittings ample and convincing; continued on next overlying (01 level?) deck/superstructure piece, joining at fairly inconspicuous seams abaft A-turret (though difficult to fill completely). Lacking any depiction(s) of non-skid (usually diamond-star) pattern on deck- and platform surfaces. Ovelying deck/superstructure pieces all with workable-looking locator pins, guides, etc.. Superstructure detail spartan but includes molded windows indented with minimum acceptable relief. Lattice supports molded, totally inadequate. Masts good, but funnel-caps gratings practically "drawn-on"; only very lightest of relief. Ship's boats rather lacking in detail/textures - but no sinkmarks in my examples. Fourteen-inch turrets well-defined but with minimal detail - director "ears" bordering on offensive; gun barrels slightly clumsy, joined to elevate together, a la Revell kits. Six-inch casemate guns nicely tapered, prominent horizontal seams run clear around casemates, need removal. Open-mount 5" AA guns very basic, breaches desperately need detail (particularly at this scale), as do twin- and triple-25mm mounts, if slightly less so. Two single-float seaplanes with nice shapes, cockpits if totally devoid of detail or panel lines. Instructions confused regarding floatplanes; a/c painting guide depicts "Pete" but twin-float planes on ship drawing. Actual parts depict biplane with wings like "Pete", but sqaured-off cowl and tail unlike "Pete". (Easily modified to "Pete", if incorrect.) Catapult and crane again with insufficient relief depicting latticework. Overall, kit desperately needs PE (Gold Medal Models makes some useful sets) for all lattices, funnel cap gratings - even bridge windows - as well as detailing, particularly on all guns. Unless waterlined, major correction of torpedo bulge/ armor belt also needed. With work put in, will make a great companion to your Hasegawa 1/450 Akagi - and more than worthy for their Yamato or Shinano. (MMS).
FAIR/GOOD. Hull is good - one-piece with part of superstructure molded in which is not detailed. Other superstructure also undetailed. Light AA guns acceptable, but wrong type for ship. Heavy AA guns' barrels replace, but main guns are good. Masts must be scratch-built and coamings replaced by thinner plasticard. NOTE: This kit is similar to the late-war Kongo kit. The box art depicts Kirishima, but the kit doesn't. Proper references needed to make up parts required for Kirishima. Rear superstructure is correct for Kirishima though. (GH)
GOOD. But one of the most complicated aircraft carrier models I've wrestled with. It seems like everything that could have been made a separate part was (granted, to allow them to offer different kits representing different configurations over the years). There's a basic hangar deck, but it's a bit flimsy and keeps wanting to break its glue bond with the hull. Some shimming will be needed to keep the hull sponsons against the hull sides. The flight deck has detail molded in, but the scribe lines for the catapults and other details are big trenches. Fill them in and start over.
That said, Fujimi pretty much nailed the basics of the Kitty Hawk and Constellation, unlike Italeri's stab at the same subject. The basics are correct, and a good modeler can add enough detail to really make this model shine. Like the Italeri kit of the USS America, it's a neat kit that nails the basics and, with a little time, it can really look great. You just need patience to build this model, though. (JMP), review dated 25 July 2005
Editor's Note: Released as
For comparison, check out the following:
Editor's Note: New mold, circa 2008.
This kit, or close relatives, has been released as:
Note: Presumably identical to Kirishima No.5S4. (MMS).
Editor's Notes: Released as:
FAIR.
Kongo in late-war guise, lots of AA guns. Some nasty mold marks to remove, and coamings too thick. Masts ok, since only one thick tripod. May be accurate for some period, but light AA doesn't agree with my Model Art references. The twin 25mm should still be present and layout of triple 25mm is probably wrong. The 6" casemates left open should be filled. (GH)
FAIR.
Inferior to and way cheaper than Hasegawa kit. Molding is less sharp. Deck details are slightly different, too. There are plenty of aftermarket products available for this kit.
(AS), Review dated 8 April 2010.
Editor's Notes: Released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Pre War fit (8" turrets)
Editor's Note: This kit has been released as:
For comparison, also see
OK/FAIR. Also released in a special "Kai-Matsu" edition (kit 40) with Cartograf decals covering 14 ships and as the Sakura (kit 45). The kit actually represents a unit of the second group of Matsus, the so-called Tachibana group, which were distinguishable by a slightly modified foremast and squared transom sterns. The real Matsu and Sakura were of the first group of 18 ships with rounded sterns, so the kit represents neither ship accurately. In any case, it does correctly represent any of the 14 Tachibanas.
This model is typical of 1970s Fujimi Waterline Series releases with basically accurate shapes but fairly poor fit and crude details. It includes a waterslide decal with shaded Japanese Katakana characters MA-TSU ("Pine") for the hull sides and of course that silly metal weight for the hull. It is uninspiring, but it was a reasonable effort for the time when it was released. With some extra work and new small parts it could be built into a good model, but there are now better alternatives available. If you want a 1/700 scale Matsu, a great choice would be the excellent Tamiya Matsu/Sakura kits, which correctly depict ships of the the first group. For a Tachibana variant, Skywave's Tachibana/Hatsuzakura kits are outstanding.
(TR) Review dated 13 April 2007.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
see Fujimi Burke-Class.
See Iowa Class
Note: Art advertising kit (5S8-800) depicts Yamato, late-war fit. (MMS)
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship as commissioned. (DRW)
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship as she appeared at the Battle of Leyte Gulf. (DRW)
GOOD/EXCELLENT. With this new molding released in 2005, modelers have been blessed with not one but two excellent choices for building a 1/700 scale Myoko. Like the 2001 Hasegawa remold, this kit is superior in all respects to Hasegawa's 1970s model, which had long been the only option. Fujimi's Myoko is very comparable with the 2001 Hasegawa kit, approximately equivalent in quality. Like the old model this one has a one-piece hull/main deck, but this one has a base plate which fits inside on the underside of the hull so there is not any seam visible. This is easier to assemble than the more fiddly multi part Hasegawa approach, but the Fujimi hull suffered from some minor hogging while the more complex Hasegawa hull came out dead flat, so Hasegawa wins this round. Fujimi's hull/deck detailing is similar to Hasegawa, perhaps a tad better on the hull sides with a slightly sharper degaussing cable and some delightfully delicate weld seams. Bollards on the Fujimi kit are a little better too, but there is an error: on the forecastle deck the Fujimi continued the linoleum deck covering instead of having the correct nonslip surface. Another difference is the torpedo deck. Enclosed by the aircraft handling deck above, this deck is visible only through the torpedo launching aperatures on the hull sides. Hasegawa chose to depict this difficult to see space without the deck with the torpedo mounts attached to the overhead. This is adequate if the torpedoes are shown stowed, but if they are swung out for firing the empty space is visible. Fujimi's torpedoes mount to the deck as did the prototype, and they even provided reload torpedoes for the deck behind the mounts, so in this area the Fujimi kit is superior. The superstructures of both kits are built up in layers with excellent fit and attractive detail, although some of it is simplified on both. Molded in wind baffle detail is outstanding as are the various fire control directors, and bridge windows are well represented in sharply defined gray plastic.
Superstructure assblies of both kits are convincing. Funnels assemble identically, with Hasegawa showing better footrail detail on the sides while the Fujimi funnel caps are better detailed. Turrets of both kits are similar, about the same quality with the main rifles being in scale with well-rendered blast bags. Masts and platform supports of both kits are accurate but a bit thick, best replaced with wire, and the solid-molded lattice platforms and crane booms are only slightly improved over the old mold Myoko! Secondary armament, boats, anchors, planes, catapults, and other equipment for each are similarly high quality with little to choose between the two.
So which is the better 1/700 scale Myoko? Both have flaws but are essentially accurate, well engineered kits. Hasegawa's detail is a bit finer overall, but Fujimi's is a little more sharply defined. It is really just a matter of style. Minor flaws notwithstanding, both new Myokos are excellent kits which can be built into beautiful replicas.
(TR), review dated 25 January 2010
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
(Whew, MRC really makes that sticker a problem to remove!)
FAIR. Oversize masts and gun barrels, davits and AA barrels. Hull is very nice, but sprues have lots of flash. Early war fit with 13mm quad ahead of bridge. (GH)
Editor's Notes: New mold, circa 2010. For comparison, check out these kits:
POOR (based on in-box inspection) Like Nichimo BBs motorized, two-piece hull - split along waterline - but with two (inaccurate) outboard skegs for prop shafts and no static display conversion option. Also like Nichimo torpedo bulge inaccurate - especially forward - and top rounds out at waterline (should extend up to main deck). Upper hull also completely featureless, lacking even slightest trace of portholes. All decks mercifully free of molded-on railings, but main deck and overlying (01-level?) deck with molded single- and triple-25mm depictions, toy-like, offensive. Planking on first two decks compatible but coarse (looks like ~4 scale feet wide), defined by raised (not scribed) lines of weak relief, do not extend all the way forward. Next (01?) deck up joins upper hull piece abreast B-turret in very obvious seam, impossible to hide, difficult to fill. Even worse, piece entirely omits upper-tier casemate guns (!). Toy-like construction continued by pagoda construction left- and right halves, bridge windowframes in relief, uneven; awful. Kit lacks any depiction(s) of non-skid (usually diamond-star) surfacing on platforms, etc.. Lattice supports plates depicting framing with inadequate relief. Masts crude, heavy, molded black plastic as is funnel-cap, depicting grating with raised, inadequate relief. (Also odd display stand looking like 19th century railroad trestle). Ship's boats entirely absent(!) Definition of sixteen-inch turrets soft, lack all detail - except offensive triple-25mms molded onto upper-tier turrets. Gun barrels basic, not tapered and joined to elevate together, a la Revell kits. All rangefinders just bars and sticks. Casemate guns slightly heavy - at least somewhat tapered - with prominent horizontal seams and flash running fully around casemates in my example. Casemates do not rotate, without even locator pins/guides, rear casemates just half-barrels glued to bulkheads. Open-mount 5" AAs just plastic wedges with twin sticks protruding. Molded-on single- and triple-25mm mounts only depictions of lightest-AA, inaccurate and offensive. Pair of twin-float seaplanes ("Jakes"?) crude, toylike - fully as bad as Revell Missouri or Helena. Catapult depicts latticework with insufficient relief, crane just featureless stick. Overall kit only a base for scratchbuilding/replacement of all significant details, from hull- and deck surgery to completely rebuilding pagoda/bridges and replacing all light weapons and aircraft (can use castings from Nichimo 1/550 Yamato-class kit), and photo-etching absolutely required. (Although hard to find in this scale; recommend using 1/600 scale Yamato/IJN frets.) Waterlining would eliminate some hull surgery - but with all the other required work, would hardly make a difference. Still, enough work will produce a very rare IJN BB - which isn't a Yamato - in a scale near your 1/600 Aurora Enterprise CV-6 and cruiser Saint Paul, and even closer to your Revell 1/535 Iowa-class BB and Lindberg 1/520 Yorktown-II. (MMS)
FAIR. Lots of flash on moldings, light AA poor, but otherwise buildable. Replace masts and detail bridge. Mid war appearance, with 4 twin 25mm and 1 quad 13mm. I dig these IJN cruisers! (GH)
See Iowa Class
FAIR. Fujimi obviously did the minimal amount of effort creating this model, whose differences from the prototype are numerous and noticable. It is supposed to be the USS New Jersey, BB-62, at around the end of WW2. The most glaring is the hull: an external armor belt, randomly placed portholes, and the wrong shape - the hull should widest around turret 3. The separate foredeck forces you to sand away and recreate the wooden deck and some deck furniture. Many details in the shape of the superstructure are wrong, and are a mix of her appearance from late WW2 to Korea. The "Bearcats" are actually Japanese float planes that look nothing like their prototype, and the light weapons (everything under 16") need replacing with Skywave detail sets, which are also needed to replace the boats and davits, molded-in life rafts, inaccurate directors and many other details. The ladders, where included, are recessed _into_ the surfaces. The fit of the parts is fair to poor, requiring filing, filling and sanding. No decals are included except a flag. The paint description is accurate for the ship's overall appearance. One can only hope that Fujimi plans to upgrade this kit as part of the current spate of rereleases by Japanese model companies, since it is the only 1/700 Iowa on the market.
If you want to build a 1/700 WW2 or Korean War Iowa class, try to find the Revell 1/720 Missouri. While it has problems, and is out of production, the full/waterline hull and superstructure are correct. You'll still need the Skywave kits (order two E-6 sets, while they last), but at least she'll look like an Iowa. (JP)
GOOD. Very nice detail, although superstructure is bare and masts need replacing. Looks as though it is a retooled kit. Late war fit (GH)
Editor's Notes: This kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
see Fujimi Burke-Class.
GOOD.
Hull lines and flight deck shape are more or less accurate. Details are very brief. No aircraft included.
(AS), Review dated 8 April 2010.
see Fujimi Matsu-Class.
Editor's Notes: Presumably a variant of their Lexington kit. (DRW)
Mid War fit (5" turrets)
Editor's Notes: Presumably a variant of their Deutchland kit. (DRW)
GOOD. Nice details. Comparable to Aoshima kit, both are inferior to Skywave. Stern shape needs correction.
(AS), Review dated 8 April 2010.
Editor's Notes: New mold, circa 2009. Portrays the ship in 1941.
This kit, or close variants, has been released as:
Editor's Notes: This kit has been released as:
Editor's Notes: This kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
see Fujimi Perry-Class.
Editor's Notes: This kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
FAIR. Good overall detail, superstructure very bare of detail, and could use a Leviathan set. Masts need replacing, and hull detail should be more restrained. Otherwise good. Late war fit. (GH)
Editor's Notes: This kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD.
Note: this is a late war fit for this vessel. Another class member, Okinoshima, is presumably in an earlier fit.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded kit with a tiny fret of supplementary photo etch parts. Aircraft and a catapult were included in the kit but no decals for marking them were. This makes sense as the version of the ship being built wasn’t equipped with them. The bits of PE included are supports for twin racks spanning the width of the ship. The directions don’t give you the slightest hint what these nicely etched racks are for. The plastic parts are cleanly molded with little to no flash. Some of the parts are a bit inconveniently located for removal from the sprues and will require care in so doing. Otherwise, this is a typical new release from Fujimi. This is not my first rodeo with Fujimi kits and I have to say that some nasty prior habits have continued like multiple sink holes in the brittle plastic used and almost unfixable ejector pin marks on the superstructure decks. The sinkholes are also pretty inconveniently located in critical deck areas as well. The parts do go together better than I expected with little to no putty required on the seams. The exception being the waterline plate fit to the hull which is atrocious.
All in all this kit runs a distant third to the more recent releases from Tamiya and Aoshima. This is, however, the only game in town so if you want an IJN minelayer Fujimi is it.
(WJS), review dated 23 September 2011.
see Fujimi Perry-Class.
see Fujimi Perry-Class.
see Fujimi Burke-Class.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1943. See Bill Swan's review under Fuso-class.
Editor's Notes: New mold, circa 2010. For comparison, check out these kits:
Note: Art advertising kit (5S7-800) depicts Musashi, in fit as of loss at Leyte. (MMS)
Editor's Notes: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship as commissioned. (DRW)
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship as she appeared at the Battle of Leyte Gulf. (DRW)
GOOD.
Note that this kit is not A-150 class, but essentially an upgunned Yamato with her late-war AA battery (port and starboard 6" turrets removed, fore and aft 6" turrets kept intact). Although detailing is comparable to Tamiya kit, there are minor fit problems. Hull seems to be same as that of all Yamato-class Fujimi kits, with separate installation of superstructure for late-war configuration (more AA guns), which is another difference from Tamiya Yamato kit. Particular feature of this kit is sprue with three dual 20" turrets for proposed upgunning envisaged by IJN battleship development plan. There are plenty of aftermarket products available which could be used with this kit. Conversion to A-150 using 100 mm DP turrets from Pit-Road E-02 set is also possible.
(AS), Review dated 8 April 2010.
VERY GOOD. This rare Imperial Japanese Army (yes, Army!) transport submarine is an unusual choice for Fujimi's first foray into 1/350 scale, but they have done a nice job with it. The kit is identical to the similar YU-1001 class sub (kit No.15) with conning towers and different propellers for both types included. The kit includes a separate bonus sprue with a tiny 2 1/4 inch long full hull 1/700 YU-1 sub model (also with alternate YU-1001 parts). Despite its diminutive 4 1/2 inch length, the 1/350 model has a number of fun features including a rudimentary interior and optional clear plastic hull parts to show it off. For a more conventional build the model offers the option to leave off the rectangular cargo compartment covers on the deck, revealing the round hatches on the casing below, which in turn can be left open for a view of the interior cargo bays. Pretty cool. Another plus is a small photoetched steel fret with deck safety rails, dive plane guard rails, ladders, helm, and a few interior details. A decal sheet with Japanese national markings for the conning towers for both models is also provided. Surface detailing is good, with sharply defined drainage vents, deck hardware, and discreet raised planking on the deck. Small parts are mixed: the binnacle, periscope, and helm provided for the open conning tower on the 1/350 sub are excellent, and the dive planes, rudder, and four-bladed propeller are convincingly shaped (if just a bit thick). The 37mm deck gun, however, is simplified. Parts fit together smoothly and both models assemble quickly into attractive, nicely detailed little submarines.
Good as these kits are, though, Fujimi didn't get everything exactly right. Despite the very limited information available on these obscure craft, I was able to find some clear photos of a captured example on Navsource online. These reveal that while the shapes of the drainage vents on the model are correct, there aren't enough of them (at least compared to photos of YU-3, but I suppose there could have been variations within the class). They also show that the kit ballast tanks and deck edges fore and aft are too squared off, deck hardware is not altogether accurate, and the bow anchor and small cargo handling derricks (both depicted on the box art) are missing. Still, these are minor discrepancies. Overall outlines and dimensions match available information very well, and the completed subs look right. Besides, where else are you gonna find Japanese Army submarines for your collection?!
(TR) Review dated April 2008.
FAIR. This kit is identical to Fujimi's similar YU-1 model (kit No.14) with different conning tower and propeller parts for Yu-1001 and YU-1 on the same sprue. Unfortunately, Fujimi also chose to use the same hull as their YU-1 kit, which is incorrect for YU-1001. Although very similar in appearance to the YU-1s, the YU-1001 boats were actually an improved class with hulls a full eight meters longer than the earlier YU-1s. This makes Fujimi's 1/350 scale sub about 2 centimeters too short - quite noticeable on a model less than 12 centimeters in length! This could be corrected by slicing the hull and inserting a section cut from the extra clear hull included in the kit, but it would be a lot of work to fix a basic error Fujimi should not have made in the first place. A 1/700 scale YU-1001 model is also included with the kit, but the same mistake is repeated and it too is nearly 17 percent short in length. Too bad, since in all other respects these models are both quite good
(TR) Review dated April 2008.
Editor's Notes: New mold, circa 2011. Portrays the ship in 1944. Presumably, this is a close relative of Fujimi's 1/350 Shokaku kit (kit 60004).
GOOD.
Presumably the same kit as Shokaku. Correct shape, nice details. Comparable to Tamiya kit. Includes one sprue of clear plastic early war IJN aircraft. There are plenty of aftermarket products available for this kit.
(AS), Review dated 8 April 2010.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Their address is:
Glencoe Models
Box 846
Northboro, MA 01532
| Chinese Junk | Constitution/Thebaud | Corsair II | Eagle-class Patrol Boat | France | Norway | |
| Oregon | Savannah | Southern Belle | US Coast Guard Rescue Boat | United States | Viking Ship |
Editor's Note: Bagged kit. Probably a reissue of the old Pyro kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Probably a reissue of the old Pyro Constituion and Pyro Gertrude L. Thebaud kits. (DRW)
Editor's Note: 2006 Re-issue of the old ITC kit. (DRW)
FAIR/GOOD. This was Cornelius Vanderbilt's yacht, built in 1892 and transferred to the USN as the gunboat USS Gloucester. I recently bought this kit and it showed up at my door yesterday.
The scale is listed as 1/130 and appears correct although I have not measured it. The kit box has some excellent photos: two large, detailed, high-quality images of the original ship as well as two of the Gloucester. The hull is about 19 inches long and is molded in black styrene; the other parts in cream-colored styrene. Kit parts have some flash problems but nothing that a little cleanup won't fix. A least one of the masts is warped and would need to be replaced with dowel, which I was going to do anyway. Instructions are marginal and rigging instructions virtually non-existent; there are a number of what I presume are rigging blocks but the molded detail is so crude it's hard to tell. These would definitely need to be replaced.
I would rate this kit as good to fair. It's an interesting subject that should go together easily and would lend itself to superdetailing. I am very tempted to model the Gloucester, although other than the box photos there is no information or parts included to do this. The major work involved would entail removing the foremast entirely, scratchbuilding a mainmast aft of the funnel, reworking the deckhouses and adding some guns (one quick-firing 6lbr and four 4lbrs, according to the kit. (RA) Review dated 26 January 2006
This has also been released by a company called "Kleeware". (Ed.)
_Not_ an Eagle class boat, but a WWI 110' subchaser. (Brooks)
GOOD. This is an ex-ITC mold, initially released in the 1950's or 1960's, and intended for battery powered operation. There are supports for the battery box and inner workings inside of the hull. The model's length is 18", with a maximum beam of 2-1/2". Based on the prototype's length of 110 feet, the model's scale works out to be around 1/73, and the beam is about 15 feet, 3 inches. Reference material on this prototype is scarce, so from an eyeball's perspective, it looks OK. The hull has raised panel lines representing the wood construction, and the ships's designation "A-V, SC96" is also raised. The instruction sheet explains that these were supposed to be plywood, but that's questionable. The hull also has the railing posts molded in, but at about a quarter inch long, they have a tendency to break off. They're best replaced with Evergreen stock. There is no railing, so the builder can use thread, or as I did, Evergreen strip stock.
My model had a slightly warped hull, so I glued the hull halves at the keel first, and when that was good and dry, I glued the rest of the hull together. Once the deck is added, it becomes a strong, true assembly. The moldings do show their age, as there was a fair amount of flash to clean up. But it wasn't too difficult. The stern transom had some dimples, which were filled and sanded smooth. The deckhouses, pilothouse and other deck details were easy to assemble, but the seams needed filling and sanding to be perfectly smooth. Some of the placement holes in the deck and deckhouses are a little too big for the parts, such as the vents and flagpoles. A small drop of CA makes them smaller so the parts fit snugly. The instruction sheet is good, but can be a little crowded in some areas. The parts are numbered, and the instructions also have a silhouette of the part trees with the parts mapped. Some of the parts are cast very well, while others are clumsy. The anchors are very nice, as are the vents, hatches, "Y" gun, masts and flagpoles. But the navigation lights, weathervane, "K" gun and crow's nest cross section are a little oversized. The props are very flashy and not very accurate. And the ship's boat had a thick cross section, scaling out to around 1 foot.
Overall it builds into a nice piece, with a minimum of effort. I built mine essentially right out of the box. I added aftermarket props, drilled out the gun barrel, covered the ship's boat with tissue soaked in white glue to represent a canvas cover, and fully rigged the masts. There is a nameplate included which reads "US SUBMARINE CHASER, 110 FEET, WORLD WAR I" as well as a stand, which is nice for the final display. (RD)
out of production, 2000.
OK. Some details are a little clumsy, the windows in the deckhouses look too big, and the greenhouse over the swimming pool is molded into the deck, causing a headache. I also have reservations about the machinery below the waterline. Find a few photo sources, though, and the ship builds up nicely with little fuss. (JMP)
Editor's Note: Re-issue of the old ITC kit. (DRW)
Presumably, a modification of the SS France kit.
GOOD. Ex-ITC mold. First issued by Glencoe in 1989, (DRW)
GOOD. This kit builds the ship as she appeared during the Spanish-American War of 1898. Same kit can build the other two ships of Indiana class, USS Indiana and USS Massachucetts.
The parts are molded of a heavier plastic than usually encountered, but is easy to work with. Model benefits greatly from use of PE and additional small details.
This model can also be used as a basis for modernized version used in WWI.
(LDF), review dated 26 February 2006.
OK. Builds well, but the shapes are wrong in many areas, and the details clunky. The superstructure is noticably wrong, and would have to be entirely reshaped. It's close to the original profile, but the Lifelike version might be better. (Mine was converted into a nuclear fast fleet oiler, USS Hudson City, AOEN-5, to salvage it.) (JP)
OK. Old ITC kit. Superstructure shapes are way off. Hull is a bit too narrow; the main deck sits too low at the bow; the bow profile is a bit too curved and too short. The skeg is really small, the shaft housing is much too big, and the screw is way off. The hull can be fixed (and with a lot less trouble than it takes to scratchbuild the ship's gorgeous, yet maddening, hull shape from scratch), but toss out everything (and I mean everything) above main deck level. If you are into big scales or are an absolute fanatic about this ship, then this kit may be worth salvaging; however, if you're only after a model of the Savannah, try to find the smaller but much better Revell kit instead.(JMP)
Editor's Note: Bagged kit. Probably a reissue of the old Lindberg kit. (DRW)
GOOD. This old ITC kit was re-released by Glencoe in 1989 and is still in production as of 2007. It depicts a "36 footer" self-righting motor life boat as used by the US Coast Guard between 1929 and 1987. Consisting of 50 white polystyrene parts, the kit builds up easily into a basically accurate cutter. As appropriate to these simple boats surface detail is minimal, although "U.S.Coast Guard" and "36319" embossed on the hull and forecastle need to be scraped off and replaced with appropriate markings. There are no decals included, so you will have to scrounge your own. As typical in kits of the 1960s, the smaller parts such as anchor, lifering, helm, stanchions, and bell are accurate but could be a little sharper; superdetailers will probably want to replace them. Nice extras are three crew figures and an interesting base which is a sort of plastic wave which supports the boat and nameplate. Not a bad kit overall, especially considering its age.
(TR) Review dated 21 March 2007.
out of production, 2000.
FAIR. (based on observation of test shot) Reported to be inaccurate below the waterline, and the solid plastic railings are no big help, but otherwise good. (DRW)
POOR. Old ITC kit. It looks like the United States after being squashed from end to end in a car crusher; the length is OK for 1/400, but the height and beam are correct for 1/350. Deckhouses are woefully incorrect, and forget about anything below the waterline. I've had to make too many modifications on mine just to get it to square up with my plans. Recommended only as a toy or a nostalgia piece. (JMP)
Editor's Note:Probably a re-issue of the old ITC kit. Measures about 3.5 inches long. Issued by Glencoe circa 1994. Said to have 14 parts. (DRW)
(TR) March 2009
Editor's Notes: This kit has been re-issued as:
Editor's Note: Said to be 4.5" long. Possibly 1/500 scale
At last word, Blue Ridge Models had their molds.
EXCELLENT. An accurate and complete kit of a historically important ship, both beginners and more advanced builders will like this kit. Highly recommended. (RM) Editor's Note: Apparently, this is the same as the BWN kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: This kit has apparently been re-issued by numerous manufacturers:
ex-BWN kit.
Portrays the ship in 1944
ex-BWN kit.
w/ USS San Fran. parts
Portrays the ship in 1944
GOOD. This kit depicts a late Type VIIc boat as it might have appeared in 1944-45 with two-tier Wintergarten conning tower and main deck-mounted Schnorkel. The model is cast with the hull and conning tower as a single piece in tan resin with a separate resin Schnorkel. Rudders, dive planes, rails, and weapons are included in photoetch brass, and a length of wire is provided for the propeller shafts and periscopes. The single-piece resin hull/conning tower part is beautifully done with accurate shapes and lots of delicate, attractive detail. I especially liked the depiction of the intricate grating, rescue buoys and other details on the main decks. Flooding vent slots on the hull sides are correctly shaped and consistent, although the configurations (4-3-16 X 2-0 starboard, 4-3-15 X 2-1 to port) suggest that the kit is not intended to depict any individual boat… in fact, no Type VIIc actually carried that particular configuration. There are numerous other inaccuracies, but fortunately most of them are fairly minor:
(TR) review dated 18 November 2009.
w/IJN Midget sub
GOOD+ Needless to say I liked this kit. It provides good value for the asking price ($142 in the last Gulfstream sale flyer) and builds up into a very attractive and eye-catching display piece. Highly recommended. (RM)
VERY GOOD.
Note: this kit now appears in the Yankee Modelworks catalog as the Wickes Class Destroyer/USS Ward YMW# 35005. The YMW web site indicates new tooling for the PE and the addition or substitution of cast metal parts. The kits both include the Japanese midget submarine sunk at Pearl Harbor.
Kit Parts: this is a resin model with a fret of photo etch detail parts included. The model is a full hull with no option for waterlining other than sawing off the bottom. The hull is cast with most of the superstructure including the funnels and was done extremely well. There are no bubbles, pinholes, miscasts or malformations on any of the parts in this kit. There is some very minor flash, but that is about all. The only difficulty I see with the parts the way they are cast is freeing the main battery guns from their casting plug. That will require a delicate hand. The detail on the small resin parts is excellent. The ship comes with cast resin masts but I would suggest using them as templates for brass rods or tubes to give strength for rigging which in this scale is a must. The photo etch is very well done and complete.
Directions:: heavily text oriented (in English) with reference to drawings of the completed ship, in segments corresponding to the text. That may not be enough for a beginning modeler.
Packaging: nicely decorated box with a photo of the finished model on the top but a bit thin, like one of the Italeri boxes that open from the sides. Well packed in foam peanuts though.
(WJS), review dated 19 March 2008.
GOOD: A nicely detailed kit with a few problems. This kit has also been marketed under the Entex and Revell name brands at times, and this latest specimen is the same kit only in a flashy new box. The hull is a two piece deal and has the usual errors in window placement. As with so many other liner models, this one seems to use a "mirror image" placement of windows making both sides nearly identical while the real ship was not. There are two areas that problematic, unlike the Minicraft Titanic, all the railings are molded into the ship and some deal of work must be used to remove them which is recommended if you want a really fine looking model. The second are is less of a problem and involves the fit of decks in the stern area. Overall this is a nicely detailed kit, though I question the money they get for this kit, especially when one considers that this kit and what is now the Minicraft Titanic were both molded by Entex and at one time were within a couple of dollars of each other. (HS)
GOOD. It's a pretty good kit. IIRC, it represents the ship as she appeared in the late 1970s, with the first group of apartments built on her upper levels. To convert her to her appearance after her 1980s "refit" is quite a chore (ask me how I know) but for a sort of "first generation" QE2 you can build a beautiful model from this kit. The only thing I didn't really like was the funky scale -- nothing else in my collection was really 1:450 scale!
Buy it and have fun with it. You won't be disappointed. (JMP)
Editor's Note: I wonder if this is the old Otaki kit..... (DRW)
Editor's Note: See notes under Kangnam Enterprise.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in the 1980s.
OK. This seems to be a modification of the Hasegawa kit. The deck, superstructure, guns, other details, and even the box art, seem to be taken from the the Hasegawa kit. The hull was made taller (and thus inaccurate) to allow more room for electric motors and other associated radio control equipment. Hawsepipes are awful.
Like the Hasegawa original, there is very little detail, and the aft superstructure is wrong. This and the Hasegawa original are the only Vanguard kits available. Given the choice, take the Hasegawa, if only for the better hull. Hap Dong's version does not appear to be as carefully produced either. (DRW)
Another major Japanese manufacturer of injection molded kits. In addition to the usual 1/700 Waterline kits, Hasegawa also still occasionally re-issues some of its old 1/450 full hull models.
Hasegawa has also apparently been acquired by Hobbico.
Check out their web page.
The primary site is in Japanese; there is a Global Site in English.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942/43.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: this kit depicts the Agano in early war fit. If you are looking for a late war (1945) IJN light cruiser you will want to buy the Hasegawa #40026, Yahagi which is offered in the Operation Ten Ichi-Go configuration.
Kit Parts: this is an injection molded plastic model in dark gray plastic with clear plastic sprues for bridge windows, poly caps to rotate the turrets, decals, flag sheets, anchor chains and in my early edition kit a large poster of the excellent box art. No photo etch is included with this kit. Hasegawa offers two supplementary sets of photo etched brass to further detail this kit at considerable extra cost. There is no reason to run on about the kit parts: simply put they are superb. There is no flash, unaligned or mismatched parts. Everything is crisp and highly detailed. You really can’t find anything better than this. There are 407 parts, including alternates. The only quibbles that I have with the kit are that not only is there no provision for making this into a waterline model but that the method of hull construction makes it really difficult to waterline this kit. However, with all those internal hull bracings it will be one sturdy full hull model.
The kits parts are so well designed and made that the vast majority of modelers will only want to add photo etch railings. This is not a kit that requires that you spent a mint on fixing or upgrading the included parts. It can easily stand by itself as a brilliant piece of craft by Hasegawa.
Directions: Outstanding, clear, CAD type drawings that make every step unambiguous. Colors are called out during each step for the ship and the included scout planes. Nuff, said.
Packaging: Sturdy, colorful box with great artwork and photos. Parts are bagged except for the hull halves which are braced in a separate cardboard frame. You won’t find any plastic rash from parts sloshing around in the box with this kit.
While I would not recommend this kit as a first model anyone who has done one or two plastic kits will have no trouble with this one other than mastering the sheer complexity of the model.
(WJS), review dated 13 September 2011.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1941.
GOOD A step up from the Shinano. Much nicer detail. Screws in the flight deck are well hidden. (DRW)
VERY GOOD. Akagi is without doubt the best of Hasegawa's 1/450 series ships. The kit consists of 323 parts including a one piece full-hull and 22 aircraft, with decals for the flight deck and the planes. It depicts the ship as she appeared during the Pacific War.
Despite being designed as a runner (often issued with a motor), it makes a very nice static model too. I have heard criticisms of the underwater hull shape, but I don't know if these are on target or not. Those torpedo bulges do seem prominent, but the plans I consulted (Miyukikai, Wiswesser, and AJ Press) don't completely agree with each other or with Hasegawa....so who knows? There other detail discrepancies, but since the Japanese destroyed almost all documentation on the ship at the end of the war there seems to be no definitive reference for Akagi. Anyway, the kit hull looks convincing.
Parts fit is reasonable, but the heavy mold seams and abundant flash reflect its 1970s origin. The flight deck attaches to the hull with screws, but these and the on/off switch are concealed beneath the elevators. Other concessions to operation are an optional centerline rudder, a propshaft emerging from the sked, and extra thick AA galleries. The worst is the gallery supports, which are molded integrally with the hull sides. Yuck.
Weapons are ok, but they could be better. The two-part 25mm twin mounts are a bit overscale (and for a Battle of Midway Akagi they should have shields). The 120mm (4.7 inch) guns were also oversized, and the hull mounted 200mm (8 inch) guns were not only too thick but misaligned to boot. The guns were useable, but I replaced them all with modified parts taken from a derelict Tamiya 1/350 Yamato.
Nitpicks aside, this kit has a lot of plusses. Raised and recessed surface detailing throughout is excellent. Horizontal surfaces have minute raised lines for planked areas and outstanding nonslip textures for steel decks. Vertical surfaces are satisfyingly busy with well rendered w/t doors, handgrabs, ladders, vent gratings, portholes and other details. There are even tiny hiragana characters A-KA-GI delicately embossed on both sides of the stern! The small but prominent island structure is first rate. I was especially impressed with the antishrapnel "hammocks" to attach around the bridge windows, a feature common on Imperial Navy warships that I haven't seen in any other kit. Very cool. The ships boats, although molded as solid pieces, are pretty good too. Aircraft have solid molded canopies and raised panel lines, but the separate props, landing gear (Vals and Kates), drop tanks (Zeroes) and torpedoes (Kates) make them stand out. I just wish there were more of them!
All in all, Hasegawa's big Akagi is a very good kit. The odd scale can make extra detailing a challenge, but the basics are there for an impressive build.
(TR) Review dated 1 May 2006.
FAIR/GOOD. Nice hull minus portholes though. Masts too thick, and some flash on parts. Coamings are nice and thin. Mid-war appearance with extra AA guns before bridge and around funnels. (GH)
Editor's Note: See Yugumo-class.
FAIR. As South Dakota. Ship as in 1944. Ignore painting instructions. (GH)
FAIR. Overall detail is fair, plus Leviathan armament and boat sprue added. However, masts need replacement. The basic kit is afterall 1960's vintage. Hull looks like it was retooled, very nice indeed. (GH)
GOOD. The model was clean with little flash, and the only parts I had trouble with were the turrets and torpedo launchers - the pins are too large. Much detail, though the bridge has blank vertical walls. My version came with Japanese instructions, so painting was based guesswork. Simplistic assembly drawing left location on some parts vague. The only photo I have seems to agree with the model. Skywave, photo-etch, a little scratchwork and some references would make this an excellent model. (JP)
Editor's Note: See notes under Atago-class.
Editor's Notes: Released as:
Presumably the same kit as the Tirpitz.
See Kongo-class.
Editor's Notes: Released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: New Mold, 2010.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: The kit does not make a specific claim as to fit. It would appear to be as built so you may want to check references for equipment and weaponry if you want to build it as sunk.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded plastic kit. With the exception of some clear parts for aircraft canopies all parts are molded in medium gray styrene. Decal sheets are included for both ship markings and aircraft. They appear to be well rendered but the US flag is not correct, being a 50 star and not a 48 star flag. The kit does not include any photo etch but does have metal chain for the anchors. Current practice for Hasegawa’s large scale ships is to offer supplementary photo etch part sets in two stages: basic and more detailed. They are quite pricy. You will need at least some photo etch to properly render the ship’s radar even if you don’t want to bother with railings and other detail features. Parts are included for pedestal style stands. The kit contains 458 pieces and comes with nine aircraft (six wildcats, three avengers). My early edition kit came with a large sized poster of the box top artwork and a nicely illustrated separate booklet detailing the history and movement of the namesake ship in English and Japanese.
Parts all appear to be clean of flash, crisply molded and have excellent surface detail. Quite simply this is a first rate, state of the art model. Plating simulation on the hull may seem a bit overdone to some but it doesn’t really bother me. Molded in detail on the flight deck is really first rate. The flight deck being in two pieces with a butt joint concerns me a little but with the joint running in the same direction as the planking less so than it would with a battleship or cruiser’s planking running perpendicular. My only quibble with this kit revolves around waterlining. I don’t build full hull ships so I prefer options for a waterline model. This kit does not have them. There is no incised line on the inside of the two piece hull but there is a raised line for the boot topping on the outside. However, taking a saw to this hull will be complicated by the bracing system Hasegawa has employed. There are five bulkheads to be glued to the upper and lower hull areas for stiffening that will cause grief to the waterline crowd. I’m not saying it can’t be done, just that it won’t be easy.
Directions: well planned, clear, step by step exploded line drawings with paint call outs (for Creos and Mr. Color paints) in each step. This is a first rate set of directions that will be easy to follow. The directions also include a page of masking patterns for the suggested camouflage scheme. Before using them check with your sources for accuracy in your chosen time period.
Packaging: Sturdy, colorful, oversized box with great artwork and photos. Parts are bagged except for the hull halves which are braced in a separate cardboard frame. Unlike my Agano kit (Hasegawa #40076) the cardboard frame did not work well. Both hull halves separated from their sprues and crashed around in the box. No damage was done but you can probably expect the same in your kit.
While I would not recommend this kit as a first model anyone who has done one or two plastic kits will have no trouble with this one. If you choose the disruptive camouflage scheme that will be the most difficult part of completing this kit.
(WJS), review dated 13 September 2011.
See Kongo-class
See Essex-class
Editor's Note: See Yugumo-class.
See Kongo-class
New mould in 2002.
Editor's Notes: New mold 2017.
FAIR/GOOD. Reissue of the I-370/I-68 kit with different box art, instructions, decals, and no Kaiten. Instead of Kaiten I-361 comes with a deck gun forward and two single 25mm guns for the aft deck. The instructions indicate that the deck extensions for the Kaiten (from the I-370 mold) should be removed for I-361. The I-171 is identical to I-68.
(TR) Review dated 1 May 2006.
FAIR/GOOD. First issued in the early 1970s, the kit contains two subs. The detailing is not as fine as their later U-Boats set, but Hasegawa's Japanese subs aren't bad. Quality is somewhere between the outstanding Tamiya I-16/I-58 subs and the not-so-terriffic Fujimi I-15/I-46 which were released about the same time.
I-370 is a credible rendition of a chubby little D1 class transport sub. Surface detail is good, with sharp recessed flooding vents and delicately raised decking. The periscopes and other smaller parts are a bit heavy, and the open tower sides could use some thinning. A cool feature is the 5 Kaiten human torpedoes to mount on the decks. The one inch long Kaitens are very nicely molded, even having tiny periscopes!
I-68 is comparable to I-370, but with one problem: the conning tower aft of the periscopes should be open on top rather than solid as the kit shows. For some reason Hasegawa also made this area slightly humpbacked rather than the correct flat profile (grrrrrrr!). Overall not bad, though, and with a little correction it can be built to represent any of the 17 boats of the KD6/KD7 classes.
(TR) Review dated 1 May 2006.
New mould in 2002.
See Kongo-class.
See Kongo-class.
FAIR More accurate than Fujimi Kongo class ships. Lattice masts and top mast section needs replacement. AA guns excellent as is hull but empty casemates need to be filled. Light AA differs in only one aspect from my references, this should be easy to fix. (GH)
Editor's Notes: Released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: Released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
(In-box review) With the release of the new Hasegawa 1/350 Mikasa, I thought I'd run off a 'quick' 'in-box' review. I should also say, this is the fifth Mikasa I've got, including the Navwar wargaming piece, the JSC card kit (1/400 and blown-up to 1/250) and the Seals 1/700. Does that make it my favourite ship, or is it just the pre-dreadnought thang?
What I have is the initial production version with anniversary extras. The slip case has some photos of a well constructed model on the back, which makes a nice change from some manufacturers. The photos also show what appears to be a custom-sized display box, which may be the mysterious fourth bonus item noted on the side of the slipcase as a send-away for the Japan-only market (I can't read Japanese to tell). The other bonus items are: a 54mm model of Admiral Baron Togo, which has been previously available with a recent special edition of the Seals Mikasa; a print of Shotaro Tojo's 'Bridge of the Mikasa' painting, on which the Togo figure is based; and a silver or gold commemorative medal.
The box itself has another fine Koike Shigero painting which even shows some details not actually in the kit (e.g. the fold-down doors for the 6-inch casemates) and is just right for super-detailing reference. The big box itself is full, which is always good to see. There are fifteen sprues, eight of them in multiples for the smaller parts, in grey plastic in three separate bags. A fourth smaller bag contains a sheet of transfers for the base, a sheet of ensigns and standards on self-adhesive paper and, best of all, a length of fine chain for the anchor cables. What I think is missing though is a length of monofilament, or similar, for rigging (like Williams Bros. used to put in their aircraft kits). I don't doubt someone will be producing a photo-etch set for railings and companionway replacements before long. The mouldings are, as to be expected, crisp and with a great deal of detail in each piece. In my opinion, in some cases there is too much, of which more in a moment.
The main hull is complete, in two halves. I would have preferred a separate lower hull, as I was intending to do her as she is on display in Yokosuka (including blue-plastic tarpaulins, welding gear and air-conditioners, as when I visited her last September!), so waterlining will need careful use of a saw. The six-inch casemate doors are moulded open and are a little chunky in some cases, which is a pity. The hull strakes seem over-large too, but as I've yet to see a picture of Mikasa out of the water, I'm not really in a position to say. The boat stands could be replaced and, of course, the solid companionways. These are down to the limitations of the plastic moulding process, as likewise, is the overscale deck-planking, which, if done to accurate size, would probably not show up at all!
The instructions are straightforward and comprehensive, as well as actually showing where things go on the model. Other manufacturers take note. The instructions also advise painting each stage as you go, which may not be a bad idea, but, as they say 'flavour to taste'. I'm glad to say the sheets also have rigging instruction plans. Apart from that, she does look rather splendid, with plenty of scope for extra detailing. I'm not sure if I'll be drilling out all the portholes though!
I think this is Hasegawa's first exercise into the 'true big ship' scale, previous efforts for them being in 1/450. All praise too them, despite my, admittedly, minor criticisms. (CT), review dated 30 June 2005
Editor's Note: Apparently, this kit has also been issued as kit 40061, which apparently does not include the "anniversary extras" that Chris mentioned. The mold is apparently new as of 2005. According to the box on kit 40061, the kit has 430 parts. (DRW)
See Mutsuki-class
GOOD. Same kit as the Yamato. The instructions are different though, and they take the differences between the two ships into account. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Kit dated 1981. Produced by Hasegawa, distributed by Minicraft.
FAIR. Details nice, but lots of casting flash. Designed to be motorized, but driven shaft looks easy to remove. Three Curtiss SC-1 aircraft included. Same as the New Jersey kit? (SR)
FAIR. Old molding I review here. Hull and light AA very nice. Main guns need thinning, as do masts. Late war fit (GH)
OK/FAIR. This is the old molding dating back to the early 1970s. For the time this was not a bad kit, typical of Hasegawa's 1/700 Waterline Series ships of the era. The hull, superstructure and funnels are accurately shaped with some surface detailing. Bridge windows are solid, supposed to be represented with that unconvincing sticker often included in 1970s Waterline Series kts. Smaller details are equally uninspiring, though typical for the time. The main turret shapes are only generally correct, and the guns are for some reason enormously thick and tapered. Masts are also rather thick, and the foremast isn't all that accurate. Despite all this the built up model looks reasonably good. It served modelers as the basis for more detailed builds for many years before there were any alternatives.
Fortunately, this is no longer necessary. In 2001, Hasegawa issued a completely retooled Myoko (kit 43333) which renders the old kit obsolete; there is even a "High Grade" version (kit 43157) with a lower hull. In addition, Fujimi released a 1/700 Myoko in 2005 (kit 41006) which is also excellent. As for the old 1970s Myoko, it could still serve as an easy to assemble kit for beginners or perhaps as an experimental testbed, but time has definitely passed this one by.
(TR), review dated 25 January 2010
Editor's Notes: For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD/EXCELLENT. This is the new molding released in 2001. Completely different from Hasegawa's 1970s Myoko, this kit is superior to it in all respects. Unlike the old model which had a one-piece hull/deck, this Myoko hull is built up from right/left sides with a separate main deck and base plate. Three spacer fittings fit between the hull sides to keep things true. This style of construction is more complicated, but the fit is so good that it does not add much work to assembly. More importantly, it enabled the kit designers to cover the surfaces with delicate details that greatly enhance the overall effect of the model. It also assures that the completed waterline hull is dead flat. This is no small point, as I have built three of the old mold Hasegawa Myoko class cruisers over the years and every one had problems with either sagging or hogging of the single-piece hull. The superstructure is built up in layers with excellent fit and attractive detail, although some of it is simplified. The molded in wind baffle detail is outstanding as are the various fire control directors. Bridge windows are well represented in sharply defined gray plastic (rather than those awful clear parts which has become common in larger scales; when will manufacturers notice that the clear parts never look right in small scale?). Funnels and turrets assemble conventionally, with the main rifles being in scale with well-rendered blast bags. Unfortunately there is no representation of the heat shields that should be present on the main turrets. These can be found in aftermarket brass photoetch, but I would have liked at least an attempt at representing them in plastic. Masts and platform supports are accurate but a bit thick, best replaced with wire; the solid-molded lattice platforms and crane boom are only slightly improved over the old mold Myoko. An interesting feature of this kit is the use of a separate Leviathan Models sprue to provide secondary armament, boats, anchors, planes, catapults, and other equipment. The quality of these parts is very good, integrating well with the regular kit parts. Plus, in addition to the components actually used there are a good number of spares for the parts box, much appreciated!
Hasegawa has also issued the kit in a "High Grade" version (kit 43157) which is even better. This version includes a lower hull with white metal propellers and display base with a brass nameplate. It also has a small photoetch fret including rails, catapults, lattice platform supports, crane boom, funnel caps and other details which address some of the shortcomings of the basic kit... but even with those shortcomings, Hasegawa's new Myoko is an excellent effort which completely eclipses their 1970s rendition of the ship.
(TR), review dated 25 January 2010
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: According to Tim's review (above) this kit is the "new mold" Myoko with a lower hull, a display base with a brass nameplate, and a fret of photoetched brass details.
For comparison, check out these kits:
See Kongo-class
Editor's Note: Released circa November 2007. Portrays the ship in 1941.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship at Leyte Gulf, in October 1944.
This has also been distributed as the Missouri.
FAIR. As Tenryu, but early fit without 25mm AA, different bridge and foremast. (GH)
FAIR. Nice hull and superstructure, torpedo tubes, but AA guns and masts are poor. Mid-war fit with 25mm AA guns added. A Nice kit. (GH)
FAIR. Hasegawa got the basic outlines of this little cruiser right, but the surface detailing and small parts are too heavy for my taste. The hull, superstructures and funnels are decent but none of the guns, masts, or other details are very good at all. It is comparable to the old Fujimi Sendai/Jintsu light cruiser kits, perhaps a tad better. The Tamiya Tama/Kuma/Kiso/Kinu/Nagara/Isuzu light cruisers are far superior. It is a solid basis for a Tenryu or Tatsuta build, but if you want a detailed replica you might want to sacrifice one of the Tamiya cruisers for small parts.
(TR) Review dated 1 May 2006.
See Essex-class for index.
FAIR. See Yorktown II. (GH)
POOR. (based on in-box review)
Features: This kit features thick, crude moldings, comes with a motor but neglects to give you the option of building the ship with three screws. The hull is one-piece, and it appears that all parts are designed for durability. In short, this is a toy, pure and simple, and no amount of hard work is going to make this into a model.
Hull and Superstructure: Although the major pieces do make this kit resemble the Tirpitz in many respects (from the instruction painting guide outline this is actually the Bismarck), the quality is poor. The hull is acceptable, but the deck is not - too thick raised planking detail, and overscale details.
The upper deck superstructure is incorrect around the area of the torpedo tubes... Um, yes, those. There are boats there instead. Boats are rectangular brick-like objects with ditches in them. Don't get into one if the ship sinks... Surface detail is coarse and masts and other fiddly bits are unusable.
Weapons: Replace all of these. Gun turrets are incorrectly shaped and barrels are overscale and useless, even the 15" main barrels. Only seven twin 37mm mountings are supplied (one for B-turret), and fourteen awful 20mm single mountings. Very much like the inaccurate Airfix 1/600 Bismarck and Tirpitz models. There appears to be a distinct lack of research in this kit.
General: The illustrations on the box sides are correct, very much like the Tamiya and Academy kits. This is really too much, to have blatant fraud regarding the contents of the box. The Vanguard is reputed to be no better than this kit (and the Bismarck is the same). However, I have the 1/450 Akagi , and am very happy with it. I have heard that the Shinano is also good, and I assume that the Yamato and Musashi are equally acceptable, although no match for the Tamiya offerings. The price is somewhat less though, so I would recommend these kits to beginners who do not want to spend a fortune on a model which they may not be able to do justice to. (GH)
GOOD. First issued in 1975, kit contains the two subs and the bow and stern of a sinking merchantman. The subs are very close to scale length and the parts have outstanding surface detail, in fact some of the best ever in injection molded 1/700 scale. The deck of the Type IX and the miniscule deck guns are especially impressive.
Unfortunately, there are problems too. Type VII deck is too wide and the hull is a bit off in shape, not fully capturing the graceful, sleek appearance of the type. The dimensional errors could be corrected, but much of the superb surface detail would have to be destroyed. It also has annoying solid rails molded to the deck and conning tower. The Type IX hull is better, but there is an inaccurate bulging ballast tank at the waterline. Fortunately this can easily be scraped off. The conning towers for both subs, representing both the early and the later types with augmented AA, are just a bit short, and the periscopes for Type VII should have separate shears rather than the combined structures provided for both subs.
Still, unless you are an incurable sub freak these shortcomings aren't all that noticeable and the subs build into beautiful little models.
(TR) Review dated 1 May 2006.
FAIR. The 5" guns are wrong, and the screw-down flight deck is a real problem. The masts, radars & other antennae are a bit clumsy. Otherwise, pretty good. Hull is exactly the same as that on Hasegawa's 1/450 Yamato kit. Yes, it has the same too-large props from the Yamato. This is the only full-hull Shinano available. (DRW)
GOOD. New molding of the 1st light carrier sunk by the U.S. Navy at the Battle of Coral Sea. Comes with tree of early WW2 aircraft although when she sortied on 30 April 42, her air wing was 9x A6M2 Zero's, 4x A5M Claude's 6x B5N Kate's. Separate photo-etch kit is available as well as a super-detailed version (HSG30014) of the standard kit that includes retooled parts and photo- etch details. (ASG)
FAIR. Nice detail, but 20mm guns are terrible. Some scratchbuilding to depict ship at a specific period, since hull is generic for class. Depicts ship in 1944. (GH)
Editor's Notes: Released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
OK. Very little detail, and the aft superstructure is wrong. The scale is more like 1/432 than 1/450. Like the 1/450 Yamato , the main deck is in three sections, and joining them seamlessly is difficult. This is the only Vanguard kit available in polystyrene, except for the HapDong, which appears to be a variant of the same kit. Don't bother with the Hapdong kit, though.
There is a nice, four-part article on accurizing this kit in "Model Ship Builder" magazine, No. 85-88, Sept/Oct 1993, Nov/Dec 1993, Jan/Feb 1994, and Mar/Apr 1994 (DRW)
UPDATE: I recently (2002) saw pictures of a FROG Vanguard, and it looks suspiciously similar to this kit. I don't know if the FROG kit predates the Hasegawa kit. (DRW)
Frog and Hasegawa exchanged kits in the 1970s, so this is likely the case, per (DM)
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1945. See Bill Swan's review of Agano, above.
GOOD. The three section main deck is a bit annoying, and some object to the thick plastic on the hull, but it sure looks like the Yamato to me. Propellers are too large, but can be cut down. Portrays the ship as she appeared in late 1944. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Essex-class for index.
FAIR. Nice molds, but instructions for this and Ticonderoga are confused. Looking at instructions, it appears from drawings that the first half of the instructions is for one, the second half for the other kit! Need references to sort out confusion. One kit is for a early hull ship, other is for a late-hull ship with two AA position on the bow. 20mm guns are poor. (GH)
FAIR/OK. The biggest gripe is that the roller doors on the port side aft of the elevator are incorrect; it should be spaced 4-3-2-1. Also the gun platform on the fantail is a little too tiny, and you need to sculpt the fantail along the centerline to get the crude "bow" the CV-9/19 class had for running astern. See Bert Kinzey's Detail and Scale volume on the USS Lexington for an excellent "how-to" on fixing this and other stuff about these kits. It's even possible to modernize them into post-war configurations, even into enclosed bow/angled deck units (as I have). (JMP)
Editor's Notes: Released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
As of this writing, (2016) Hawk is owned by Round 2 Corp. of South Bend, Indiana. Indiana. Their website is here: http://round2corp.com/product-category/hawk/
| Coast Guard Cutter | Destroyer | LST | PT Boat | Sport Cruiser |
Editor's Note: See Rod Dautiel's review of the Testors 2003 reissue of this kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Box art indicates the Fletcher-class destroyer USS The Sullivans (DD-537). Hull is about 6.75 inches long, which would make the scale about 1/670. This kit dates back to about 1967. Testors reissued this kit in 2003, and you can read my review of it in the Testors section. (DRW)
GOOD. Nice kit from 1960s which I suddenly bought for cheap from old collector. Scale I provide is my guess. It is full hull, and one LCI is included with the kit. Small decal with board number is provided. Details are excellent for such an old mold, but are somehow less impressive compared to Skywave LST kit by today's standards.
(AS), Review dated 22 March 2010. Editor's Note: Hull is said to be 6.5 inches long. Box art shows LST-493. Testors reissued this kit in 2003. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Tim Reynaga's review of the Testors 2003 reissue of this kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Circa 1961. Motorized. (DRW)
Heller ships are usually of good quality. They are almost always
in 1/400 scale. The exceptions, such as the ex-Airfix Forrestal, are
usually molds from Airfix or other manufacturers. (DRW)
Check out their web page.
The primary site is in French; there is also a site in English.
Heller also makes a line of sailing ships in varied scales. (JP)
GOOD. This kit shares many parts with Le Normand, but represents the E52B class which was a further development of the escort type. It has different armament, bridge and deckhouse structures, funnel, masts and radar, but on the same hull. My comments under le Normand as regards the quality of the kit apply here. (JRC)
FAIR. (Based on in-box review) Reasonable hull moulding, given scale / size. Comes with 8 non-descript aircraft ! Ship fair, aircarft poor. (AMc)
Editor's Notes: Kit is said to be 65 cm long, with 622 parts. The real ship was launched in 1966, and sank in 1985. Thanks to Randy Ward for telling me about this kit. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Presumably, this kit is from the same mold as le Normand. (DRW)
Editor's Note: From the picture on the box, the ship is 3-masted and square rigged. Said to have 94 parts. Said to be 274mm long when complete. (DRW)
GOOD. (in-box review) A good, but very basic kit.
Main problems - AAA is too weak, you should add at least 2 20mm quads and 6 20mm singles if you want to depict her as of May 1941. The two aft AAA directors should not be domed - they should look like the larger open gun director on Heller's Z-31 kit.
No detail - especially on the 380mm barbarettes - this is correct for the Tirpitz but not the Bismarck.
I remember being disappointed that you could not make the 105mm guns rotate!
The camo is basically ok - if you want to depict her before she left the Baltic in 1941, but her turret tops may have been red.
If your version comes with the boot-topping decal strip - don't use it - KM ships used a very dark gray for the waterline demarkation marking.
The flag set is wrong with all but the very first issue of this kit - as Heller has since decided to abide by the German ban on the swastika.
This kit cries out for PE (see the usual suspects). I have not built this kit, but do own it and I have built the Heller Tirpitz. (PKHM)
VERY GOOD. The shape and detail are very good. Standard Heller Quality. I really did not find a lot of errors here. The few I found were minor and actually not worth mentioning.
I was very pleased with the hull shape. This has been a problem for many manufacturers for some reason. The rake of the bow and the shear of the sides is very refreshing and captures the hull features nicely.
As for the Bismarck's weapons suite. I have looked and to date I have not been able to find a picture of her with any quad 20's. I have found a website and a book that mentions them, but not pictures. What some did not know was she put to sea still unfinished. Her aft secondary directors were suppose to be covered but it was never completed. In addition there were various other systems never installed due to lack of time.
(RDF), review dated 3 August 2007.
Editor's Notes: Presumably, this kit is related to the Heller Tirpitz.
For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT. This is a kit of a small commercial fishing boat based in the Faero Islands. Typical Heller quality - Good subject matter for a heavy weatering job. (DH)
GOOD. (Based on in-box review) (JP)
GOOD. Although this ship is the same class as the Le Corse (E50 frigate), the Heller kit represents its conversion in the early 60's as a testbed for the new 100 single turret and its associated DRBC 32A fire control system. An interesting variant, but not evident from the box top artwork, which led me to buy it as my representative E50 boat, and then having to buy another 'real' one. My comments on quality for le Normand apply to this kit also. (JRC)
GOOD. A bit short on detail, but nice overall. (DRW)
GOOD. (based on In-Box Review) Kits appears to be very complete. I like the aircraft selection as Heller is always very generous with supplying aircraft.
(RDF), review dated 10 April 2007.
Editor's Notes: This kit was issued as:
Editor's Notes: This kit was issued as:
OK. This is a very early Heller kit, with very crude mouldings, which was re-released in the UK in 2001. The Colbert is a handsome ship and an interesting example of post-war gun-based AA cruisers. Even so, if it wasn't for the range of PE fittings from L'Arsenal, I might well have given up. The armament is dreadful (it is nearly impossible to get the 127mm barrels off the sprue without breaking them), the boats are mis-shapen, and the complex lattice masts best forgotten. There is no surface detail at all. L'Arsenal provided doors, ladders, radars (3), cable reels, motto plaques, and WEM the railings, anchors and paint. The masts I scratchbuilt in brass, using the box picture, which is actually pretty accurate, for the detail. Various other details came from the spares box.
So a good subject with potential, but takes a lot of work to produce anything worth looking at. (JRC)
FAIR. (Based on in-box review) Kit in 36 pieces / full hull. Plan states LOA of 45m, but a quick check of kit scale shows nearer 42m. Gun f'ward and missile [?] aft, look overscale. Otherwise would make nice model. (AMc)
Editor's Notes: This kit has been issued as
Editor's Notes: le Corse was the lead ship of the class. See Joe Poutre's and John Clements' comments under le Brestois, even though that kit represents a variant of the class. This kit has been issued as
Editor's Note: Said to be 147mm long. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Said to have 20 parts. (DRW)
FAIR. This is an interesting little model of a French diesel sub of the 1960s. I believe the kit was released sometime in the 1970s but never reissued, so it has become somewhat hard to find. It comes molded in dark green plastic with a simple parts breakdown and a minimum of parts. An interesting feature is a choice of different bows, both early and late with the latter having a large bulbous sonar array on top. Quality is typical of the era with ok but not great fit and fairly minimal surface detail. The hull comes in two pieces with the conning tower attached, split laterally. This makes for a nasty seam right in the middle of the upper deck, and the separate bow parts add another. Smaller parts are reasonably good. Decals include markings for nine of the eleven boats which served in the French navy, but Minerve and Euridice, both lost with all hands in accidents at sea, are omitted.
(TR) Review dated 30 March 2007.
GOOD. (in-box review) Usual Heller molding, quite good but not the best. (I like Heller because they don't do the same-old-same-old, but they aren't the best. The only, for much of what they do.)
Said to be 127mm long. 17 parts
GOOD. (Based on in-box review) (JP)
Editor's Note:Presumably the same kit as Tourville. (DRW)
GOOD/VERY GOOD.
VERY GOOD.
Note: year of fit is not specifically called out but appears to be late 1930s. The model sports a full complement of ship’s boats and very little AAA. Dunkerque and Strasbourg are sometimes called battlecruisers but this is a mistake, they were fast, lightly armed and armored battleships specifically designed to chase down and defeat the upgunned heavy cruisers of the Deutschland class in Germany.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded plastic model kit that includes metal chain for the anchors, a small decal sheet with ship’s name and patriotic slogans as well as a paper sheet of flags. Plastic railings are also included. This kit was born in the 1970s and to my knowledge has not been reissued in decades. Rumor has it that this kit may be reissued soon so check with your favorite vendor. I certainly hope it is as I will repurchase this kit and build another one!
All parts are molded in a dark gray plastic that is crisp and had little to no flash. Surface detail was good but not outstanding. Wood deck detail is created with raised continuous lines. There are no butt ends to the planks. The detail for the main and secondary battery turrets is good. The gun barrels are fair to good for plastic. In fact they are actually superior to the ones found in Heller’s Richelieu and Jean Bart kits. The problem with the turrets is more in the nature of the fit rather than the detail. Seams are too readily apparent. The most serious issue with the kit in general was the fit of some of the aft superstructure parts and the fit of the one piece main deck to the hull. Careful gluing a section at a time will eliminate the gaps that will occur if you try to do it all at once. The one piece deck is actually a bonus as there are no joint seams to fill and it makes painting so much easier. The ship’s boats are a bit clunky and lack detail so scratch building detail will help a lot there. The little bit of AAA included is pretty much hopeless as the shapes have more in common with a squashed insect than a weapon. The catapult for the included aircraft was a really good try for the times but just screams out for a photo etch replacement. The aircraft itself is a bit globular and ill defined. The aircraft and boat cranes are somewhat ill defined as well, again, that is something a good PE set would fix. The plastic railings included with the kit are just way too over scale to use. They look a lot more like a split rail fence than railings. The hull is in two halves with no provision for waterlining. Some of the later Heller kits like King George V #1060 have an incised line in the hull for a waterline option. I waterlined mine so I can’t really say how good or bad the lower hull is.
Packaging: huge flimsy cardboard box that is so oversized that the parts flop around inside it like a freshly caught fish on the dock. Expect lots of plastic rash on the big pieces. Small parts are all bagged in plastic wrap.
Availability: unless reissued this will be a hard kit to find. They pop up from time to time on eBay and at old kit brokers but be prepared to pay over $100 and sometimes a lot more for a good example.
As I read this review it appears far more negative than I intended. This is actually a pretty good kit of an almost unique subject (there is also the Strasbourg). When built up it looks really quite good and convincing as a model of this extraordinary ship. The only real downside to this kit is that there is no dedicated photo etch detail set available for it. You will have to scratch build your add ons and rustle up some generic 1/400 railings to complete this kit. As active as the 1/350 model scene has been over the last few years there is still no option for the last of the French battleships other than the Heller kits of Dunkerque, Strasbourg, Jean Bart and Richelieu (let’s not talk about the flawed Trumpeter 1/350 Richelieu, it just makes people mad).
(WJS), review dated 12 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: Tartar variant of the T47 class. See Kersaint, reviewed by John Clements. (DRW)
Same kit as Suffren.
Editor's Note: Said to be 149mm long. (DRW)
FAIR.
This kit, the Occident #L-960 and the Pourquoi-Pas? #L-950 are all related as are the Zvezda reissues Brigantine # 9011, Sirius (Occident) # 9013 and Pourquoi-Pas? # 9012. The question mark is supposed to be in the name of Pourquoi-Pas? because the name is equivalent to the English phrase "Why Not?".
How are they related? They all share the same hull, main deck pieces and a host of other parts including ships boats, plastic deadeyes, masts, yards, etc. Additional parts are included in each kit to differentiate them from one another. If I had to take a guess as to which one most closely resembles the real ship it would have to be the Pourquoi-Pas?, the others being for the most part fabrications. The modeler should consider them “typical” vessels of their type.
If you are a sailing ship enthusiast with a passion for accuracy stop, go no further, keep your wallet in your pocket. These ships are not for you (well maybe, you could tease out an accurate Pourquois-Pas? if you have the time and patience).
This kit supposedly represents a "typical" English Brigantine rigged ship, most likely of the early 19th century. I'll leave that to the experts in sail.
On to the parts included. This is an all plastic kit that comes with vacuformed sails and a loom to create the ratlines. Deadeyes are solid cast plastic and there are no blocks or pulleys included. I built mine ages ago and filched a bunch of plastic blocks from an old Revell Alabama kit as well as some of the figures and the pre-formed ratlines (stop cringing sail ship guys, I'm a casual builder). The parts, except for the masts and spars, all have typical Heller over scale wood grain effect to them, which really isn't all that bad for us casual builders. The wood grain on the hull stops at the waterline leaving that area dead smooth, as the comedians say "that cain't be right!". The fit of all these parts is entirely another matter. There are gaps and misalignments by the score in this kit. You will be very busy filling gaps and removing flash from most of the parts. One of the things that exacerbates the fit problem was Heller's attempt to get three ship kits out of one set of molds. There is a hole dead center in the ship’s hull just below the cap railing for "alternate" parts for each kit. In the case of the Brigantine this is just a section of hull with scuppers. It doesn't matter what it is for, nothing fits right (I have all three versions, so I know from experience). You will have to finesse and putty this area as well as the transom/stern areas with great care for a good appearance. A nice touch is the clear plastic parts included for the various cabin windows, it's nice because when you put them in the view is so distorted you can't see into the unfinished areas inside. The main deck is divided into three sections which leave truly horrendous visible seams to deal with, wood grain notwithstanding. Seeing as how so many parts are shared among the kits it is really hard to say what is right for any of them. You will certainly have to obtain blocks, line for standing and running rigging (to substitute for the hairy stuff that Heller included but not for the Zvezda repops as they included nice stuff), etc. for even a casual rigging job and while you are doing it make sure you have a light touch as the plastic spars bend easily. Sailing ship mavens will want to replace all parts for masts and spars with wood or metal.
In spite of the fact that the kit has so many fit problems and lacks a number of essential parts to properly rig for the casual builder the finished product can be convincing enough. I was even able to use the vacuformed sails with a moderately convincing effect. The directions on the other hand are for the casual builder only. Sailing ship buffs will consult their own sources for the rigging.
(WJS), review dated 8 April 2008.
Editor's Note: From pictures, she looks like a 3 masted clipper to me. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Same as Clemenceau.
Editor's Note: Same as Clemenceau.
Editor's Note: Same as Airfix Series 10kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Said to be 140mm long. (DRW)
GOOD. The kit shows Gneisenau with the Atlantic bow and raised funnel. It is after her 1941 refit in Brest, with the larger aircraft hanger. (AP?)
GOOD. (in-box review) Overall the kit is good. AAA fit is inadequate - use good references. For example, there are no 20mm quads and too few 20mm singles. The kit tries to represent the ship as of the 1942 channel dash, but the AAA fit is completely wrong for this period. At the very least, she carried 3 20mm quads and 8 or 10 20mm singles. Again, use good sources! It also has an open bridge, which again is wrong for 1942 and beyond. However, the catapult, hanger and main mast are essentially correct - if basic - for a post Jan. 1942 fit. Heller provides a catapult on the roof of the hanger, but this is wrong. The actual catapult was internal, the spare Ar-196 was carried on the platform above the hangar.
I have read that the rear 280MM turret is located too far aft, but I have not confirmed this. Also, Heller gives you a centre bow anchor - this should not be used and all the holes for it and its chain should be filled - if you are going for a post-1939 fit. The full-length main deck features three open stairways without covers - you can add PE/scrap plastic covers from scrap plastic or PE and portray them in either the open or closed position. The main fault is that Heller doesn't provide the prop-shafts and supports for the two outboard propellers. I used spares/scrap pieces pulled off of my old Airfix Bismarck and Tirpitz to remedy this oversight. They may a little short, but fit well given the physical restraints of the aft hull. Also, Heller does not provide the triple 21" TT - N.B. it appears that she did not carry any spare torpedos and their associated armoured lockers. It seems that the Gneisenau did not carry any camo during the Dash, apart from the reported "light blue" main turrets that is! She was given a quick camo job when she was drydocked to repair the mine damage she suffered during the dash. However, I have not been able to locate a good plan of this pattern.
If your version comes with the boot-topping decal strip don't use it - KM ships used a very dark gray for the waterline demarcation marking.
The flag set is wrong with all but the very first issue of this kit - as Heller has since decided to abide by the German ban on the swastika. With PE (WEM has a set dedicated for Heller's Scharnhorst and Gneisenau and perhaps Tom', and don't forget WEM's KM AAA set) and good references it can be made into a great model.
My Gneisenau is still awaiting her turn in my drydock - but I have built the Scharnhorst. (PKHM)
GOOD. The triple 11 inch gun turrets are great! With some work you can convert this kit into the 15in-gunned Gneisenau. The biggest obstacle is the insertion of about 30 scale feet of hull forward of Anton turret. The 15in guns can come from any Heller Bismarck or Tirpitz.
To insert the extra hull length you will first have to slice the hull vertically forward of the Anton Barbette using any hobby saw. The deck will have to be cut too. The deck is easy to fix, as it is likely that it would have been steel plated. Remove as many of the deck fittings as possible and cover with .005-sheet styrene. The hull is another matter. You cannot just add a hull, the shape will be wrong. Using styrene wedges you will have to blend the pieces together using reinforcement on the inner hull. Crossbeams are recommended. Once you get the framing done take three strips of .005 styrene approximately 2.5 inches long and cover the framework. Use putty to blend in the ends. Add the armor belt and boom an 832-foot long German Battle cruiser with 6 x 15 in guns. Since this is a two piece hull I can only stress the need to add bracing to the hull prior to starting this project. (RDF)
Editor's Note: Presumably, this kit is a variant of the Scharnhorst.
Editor's Note: Said to be 149mm long. Possibly the same as Heller's Eagle kit. (DRW)
VERY GOOD. The best Graf Spee on the market after the Testor 1/720 kit.
(RDF), review dated 10 April 2007.
Editor's Note: Possibly the same as Heller's Drakkar Oseberg kit. (DRW)
FAIR/POOR.
This kit purports to be a galley typical of the ships that were used by William The Conqueror in 1066 to transport his army to Britain and conquer it. Even though Heller makes reference to illustrations in the Bayeuax Tapestry this looks way too much like their Viking longboat Drakkar Oseberg # 0885 kit to me. So I suspect that one or the other was recycled plastic.
Once again this is a kit for the casual builder only. There are too many errors and omissions for the purist. If you want a longboat of this era seek out the recently reissued Revell Viking ship. This is an all plastic kit which includes rigging line, vacuformed parts and decals for the shields. Kit parts are covered in Heller's famous wood graining. The graining is over scale but for the casual builder it looks great and covers up lots of brush painting flaws. Alignment of the very few ship parts is off and a good bit of fiddling and filling with putty was required. Most of the parts consist of oars (of dubious shape) and shields, the mounting of which looks like it would interfere with the use of the oars. The ship is equipped with a mast, spar and vacuformed sail (a couple of crude blocks are thrown in as well). The directions aren't all that good at trying to figure out how that mast, spar and sail are supposed to be rigged and stayed so your are really on your own there. Notwithstanding it's many faults I built mine into a colorful (if of dubious accuracy) galley/longboat to display. Outside of a very few experts in the field no one will know if it is accurate or not. Just have fun with this one.
(WJS), review dated 8 April 2008.
The Heller 1/400 scale Hood is indeed just a reissue of the old 1970s kit. Different box art, but I think that is about it. I should know what is on my own website ("Battle Cruiser Hood"), but the site has grown so large that certain details in various articles frequently escape me! At any rate, I'm pretty sure we have a basic list of problems with the kit there (look under "Hood Today" and then select "Scale Models and Miniatures", then select the Heller Hood from the list of models).
Just in case the website review/problem list isn't comprehensive enough, here is a basic list of problems beyond the overall lack of detail which plagues the kit:
I know it seems like a lot of work, but with said book, the WEM photoetch set (and paints...get AP507B for most of the ship's surfaces, AP507A for metal decks and of course Corticene for bridge decks, plus any brand of black for the starfish and tan for the dulled teak decks), you can do a pretty good job. I've seen it done. I'll do it myself once I get some time and have completed my other Hood kits. (FWA), review dated 30 November 2002.
GOOD.
Heller's Illustrious, King George V and Hood are the only 1:400 RN WW2 ships produced, and the only RN vessels in Heller's line-up. All three have been sporadically re-released, and are currently once again available. Perhaps I am biased, but in my opinion the Illustrious class with their closed hurricane bows are to me among the most elegant of WW2 carriers. I do not know from when the kits date, but I first heard about these kits about 15 years ago, so I assume they are 20 years or older. As such, they lack much of the finesse of modern Tamigawa plastic kits, but several characteristics mitigate in their favour: size, merciful abstention from small details which cannot stand the test of advances in molding technology, and the burgeoning cottage industry's available after-market sets.
The Illustrious kit includes decals and color guides for her and Victorious. Formidable could also be built, but as I do not have references, I cannot say whether it will be easy to build Indomitable, a half-sister which had a different hangar and armour design and possibly external differences.
Since I have no references, I cannot speak for the accuracy of the kit, but at present White Ensign Models in the UK produce both a resin bridge front replacement and 2 extensive frets of photo-etch details which would make the model meet today's standards of detail.
The full hull is molded as port and starboard halves, all large openings are flashlessly clean. Portholes are fairly deep, and square window-type openings and anchor chain holes are through. Only on one side, three of the square holes are covered in flash. For old molds, the result is remarkably good. The armour belt is prominent, as are the stabilizers, and there are several hull details such as degaussing cable, vertical pipes, struts on the sponsons, and the waterline is marked. The shafts and propellors look presentable.
All the hull boxes are completely devoid of detail, the boats are spartan but look functional, as do the rafts. Cranes ae basic, the crane arm is molded as a frame, but photo-etch will be much better.
The flight deck is one-piece, with the two elevators molded in the up position. There is no hangar deck. The catapult is raised with the track recessed, it looks very smart. The arrestor wires are molded on, as are pins depicting their holders. The flight deck marking edges are raised, and the forward safety net is molded in the down position. Sponsons and platforms have no details save coaming. The flight deck fits into the hull, so the modeler will have to carefully mate the deck to the correct height to minimze filling and sanding of the hull-deck edge which becomes the new edge of the flight deck for much of its length.
The bridge is spartan, with the sides only including portholes, a few very fine horizontal raised lines, and extremely fine outlines of the bridge front windows. The horizontal surfaces have no detail. The funnel is similar, with raised ladders and various details added. The funnel cap is solid with raised detail. The radio antennas at the edge of the flight deck are solid and would need to be replaced. The main mast looks quite good, but the radars sould be replaced with photo-etch. Search-lights are basic, mounting and light are one piece.
The eight 4.5-inch twin gun turrets look the correct shape, and the gun barrels are surprisingly good-looking. The directors have some mold marks on them, and are in two parts cut vertically, making them quite a bit of work to complete properly cylindrical. The six octuple 2-pounder AA weaponson the other hand, while functional, are far too simple. two layers of barrels are mated together, and glued to a flat base. Two single 20-mm guns are supplied for the front and rear of the bridge structure. Photo-etch and sprue would help a lot here too. Six Swordfish with extended wings, and six Martlets with optional folded wings, are supplied, propellors as separate parts. The noses needs work as there is no engine recess, the propellors need replacement with photo-etch, and the flying surfaces should be thinned down. The landing gear consists of pins. The number of aircraft is adequate, but more types would have been nice, and for Victorious different types are needed too (Albacores, Sea Hurricanes, Avengers, Seafires, Corsairs).
Illustrious began her service in April 1940 (8 Skuas, 4 Fulmars, 24 Swordfish) or in August 1940 (12 Fulmars, 24 Swordfish). She launched the raid on Taranto in November 1940 with these. Then she was severely bombed in January 1941 and retired to the US. She emerged from Norfolk Navy Yard at the end of 1942 with improved AA armament and took on Grumman fighter planes. In 1944 she was upgraded with Barracudas and Corsairs. However, the kit does not depict either most of her pre-1942 aircraft, nor the US-fitted armament, which by the end of the war included, according to the instruction booklet, 3 quad 40-mm Bofors and 52 20-mm guns (twins and singles).
Color schemes are given for Illustrious in the Indian Ocean from October 1942 - February 1943, with three-tone wave pattern shown on both sides and two colors on the deck; and for Victorious with the Home Fleet: the instructions say that from May - June 1941 she carried Swordfish, and in September 1941 Martlets. The camouflage for Victorious is angular three-tone on the sides, and two-color irregular wavy on the deck. Certainly interesting and eye-catching schemes, both.
The kit is basic, but of good overall quality, giving plenty of scope for detailing without having to remove many, by tody's standards, sub-standard parts. References will be required to build the kit at any point past service entry, and to add details. I rate the quality of the kit as good.
(GH), review dated 2 September 2005
Shows Jean Bart post-war, with bulges and as-completed AA armament. (AP)
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review) Lots of guns. If you gig is lots of weapons and you do not want to build the HMS Victory, this is your ship.
This kit shares the same hull and main guns as the Richelieu kit, but that is about it. The ship was completed 7 years after World War II, in 1952 and the superstructure was radically altered to reflect the change in emphasis on AA gunnery. It is very unique appearance to say the least. In fact from dead astern she looks nothing like her sister ship.
(RDF), review dated 3 August 2007.
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: The kit does not specifically indicate year of fit, however, it would appear obvious from the addition of hull bulges added in the assembly sequence and the armament for AAA that the ship reflects her post war reconstruction and not her original planned fit.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded plastic kit supplemented with metal chain for the anchors. There is a small decal sheet with ship’s name and patriotic slogans and a paper flag sheet. Plastic railings are also included. The model is a creature of the 1970s and has not been reissued since then. There has been some noise of late that under the new owners of the molds reissues of the battleship kits may be coming, I wouldn’t hold my breath on that though.
Nonetheless, the dark gray moldings are crisp and have pretty good surface detail, especially for the era. Wood planking detail certainly is not up to today’s standards, rather it is of the raised line variety with no butt ends to the planks but I have seen excellent effects achieved with this to work with. My kit has little to no flash so preparation will be of the usual for a plastic kit, removing seams and smoothing out joint lines. The hull is in two halves with no provision for waterlining. Some of the later Heller kits like King George V #1060 have an incised line in the hull for a waterline option. The hull pieces, main battery and main deck are shared with the Richelieu #1015 model. Inside the hull and underneath the deck are markings for the appropriate portholes and openings to be drilled out to fit the kit specific parts. This has the added benefit of making painting the deck much easier as the vast majority of fittings are added later. I wish all manufacturers would do this. ( I have to admit that I have been seduced by the latest thing in large scale 3rd party add ons: the micro thin real wood decks!, no more painting wood decks for me). Getting back to the deck, it is all one piece. There are no ugly and inconvenient deck joints to fret over. The bulges appropriate for Jean Bart are added to the shared hull. I would anticipate (IF I were to build a full hull version, which won’t happen in a million years for me) that those joints will be tricky to finesse.
So far good news, so why not rate this kit excellent? Now the bad news: turrets are multi-piece which will be hard to put together without bringing out the putty. The main battery gun barrels are just awful (happily brass ones are available for this kit). Worse news for us waterline guys, those tricky to finesse added hull bulges will be even worse to cut down for the waterline version. AAA is nice looking but over scale. The turreted ones are in two pieces with the seam right down the middle. The bonus of the included plastic railings really isn’t one. They are downright clunky and hugely out of scale, they look like tree trunks strung together. The last straw, for some at least, there is no dedicated photo etch detail set available for this kit.
Directions:: large format sheets with many blown up line drawings with Heller/Humbrol paint colors called out in each step. As to the color suggestions I would take them with a grain of salt. Overall I would rate the instructions as very good to excellent as there really don’t appear to be any ambiguities present. Whatever little blurbs of print there are present, such as a mini-canned history, are in a Rosetta Stone of languages.
Packaging: huge flimsy cardboard box that is so oversized that the parts flop around inside it like a freshly caught fish on the dock. Expect lots of plastic rash on the big pieces. Small parts are all bagged in plastic wrap.
Despite its flaws and age I would still highly recommend this kit to anyone interested in battleship design and/or the navies of Europe. It is still a pretty good kit even by today’s standards. They appear from time to time on eBay and with the old kit brokers, sometimes selling for really silly money.
(WJS), review dated 12 September 2011.
Editor's Note: See also notes under Richelieu-class.
GOOD/EXCELLENT. The model is NOT the version shown on the box. The cover shows the modern Exocet-armed version, while the model is of the older, Masurca-armed version. The ship never actually carried Masurca. The details are good, though I would recommend brass railings and detail/replacement parts from the French company l'Arsenal. (JP)
FAIR. The Jeanne d'Arc entered service in 1964 and has a distinctive profile, with a large forward superstructure and a long flight deck aft. Acting as a training ship in peacetime (she normally undertakes one annual world cruise with escorts), she can be quickly converted into an amphibious assault ship or troop carrier. She has been updated and the Heller model seems to represents a mixture of old and new, as will be described below.
The model has been around for a long time. As commonly with Heller, there is a lack of surface detail but the overall shape and look are well rendered. Many of the mouldings are overscale, especially those making up the large vertical mast and its many platforms and attachments. On the other hand, the pieces making up the bridge structure replicate the complicated sloping design quite well and have clearly marked windows. Some internal bracing before attaching these parts to the hull is helpful as the joints are very sketchy and weak.
The radar and forward structure largely represents that as built, but Heller supply the Exocet missiles fitted in the early 70's. There have been some minor alterations to the bridge structure and, more substantially, to the radar fit since then, which are not represented in the kit. Correcting these is not a big job. According to my sources, it would seem that the out of the box version would fit the ship in the late 70's or early 80's .
Making a decent model is eased greatly by the accessories available from L'Arsenal. For mine, I used the following:
Whilst the heavy mast is usable, I replaced all the moulded platforms with scratchbuilt brass wire and plasticard structures using the plans available from the French National Navy Museum.
The decal set is recent, very matt and covers all the flight deck markings, motto plaques, flags, etc.
Although this kit shows its age, with the after market products now available, and careful modification, it can be made into something quite different and eye-catching. (JRC), review dated 12 February 2006.
FAIR. These kits represent the Tartar conversion of the T47 class (Surcouf et al), and consist of the basic sprues plus the necessary extra parts, which make up into quite a strikingly different ship to the basic T47 as built kits. See my review of Maille-Breze for comment on detail. (JRC)
FAIR. Hard kit to get. One of the best features of this kit is the 1/400 scale Mk13 missile launcher, SPS-48 3D antenna and missile directors.
(RDF), review dated 3 August 2007.
Editor's Notes: Heller has released the T47 Tartar variant kit as:
See also Surcouf, which represents the lead T47 class as built. (DRW)
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
Note: let’s start with the fit. I don’t really know what time period this kit is supposed to represent as the AAA doesn’t seem right for either of the ships you are supposed to be able to build from this kit, Prince of Wales or KGV. With some research and some extra parts you could finagle either one I suppose but really why would you want to? Let’s go to the bits and pieces:
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded plastic kit in dark gray styrene with some metal chain for the anchors and a paper flag sheet. Plastic railings are also included. No decals were found in my kit. The hull is in two halves that have an incised groove on the inside to facilitate making a waterline kit (the biggest plus of the kit, everything else is pretty much down hill). The tops of each hull half have molded in bollards and chocks that are blocky and over scale. The one piece deck (OK, another plus) has raised continuous lines to simulate planking. There are no butt ends to the planks and the lines themselves are uneven and in a couple of places a bit fuzzy. The rest of the molded in deck detail is blocky and featureless. At least you don’t have to join multiple deck pieces together and fix ill fitting seams. The rest of the parts are thankfully flash free but that is about the only virtue. There is little to no surface detail and the whole thing is as plain as can be. You could rustle up some brass details to help out the slab sides of the superstructure parts from generic sets of watertight doors, etc. As far as cranes, inclined stairs, ladders, stack grids, radars, some AAA shields and scale railings are concerned there is a major saving grace: the Tom’s Modelworks dedicated PE set #4007 for this kit. As far as the plastic railings go, the less said the better. I am not aware of any brass barrels for main and secondary batteries so you are on your own with them as well. Compared to the Heller Jean Bart, Richelieu, Strasbourg and Dunkerque this kit is a resounding disappointment. It doesn’t even seem like it could have come from the same company.
Directions:: large format sheets with many blown up line drawings. Painting directions are called out in French in each illustrated step. As to the color suggestions I would take them with a grain of salt. Overall I would rate the instructions as excellent except for the painting directions as there really doesn’t appear to be any ambiguity present. One downside of the early editions is that the directions are in French. Translations of the French into German and English are provided on a supplementary page that lacks the line drawings so that you will have to lay the sheets side by side if you wish to reference the explanations. You really don’t need the written directions as the line drawings really are more than enough. You will want to do your own paint research anyway so you don’t need that either.
Packaging: huge flimsy cardboard box that is so oversized that the parts flop around inside it like a freshly caught fish on the dock. Expect lots of plastic rash on the big pieces. Small parts are all bagged in plastic wrap.
I don’t recommend the purchase of this kit unless you absolutely, positively must have 1/400. The similar vintage Tamiya 1/350 kits of KGV and POW are far superior and have a host of after market goodies (like brass barrels, photo etch and real wood decks!) that can turn them into fabulous models.
(WJS), review dated 12 September 2011.
GOOD. (in-box review) Usual Heller molding, quite good but not the best. Early look: some parts feel a bit large.
Editor's Notes:According to Heller, the kit is 312mm long, with 95 parts.
GOOD. The kit shows the ship later in the war with a modified bow and funnel. As most Heller kits, the parts fit quite good and includes plastic railings, which are not liked by everyone. (ME)
VERY GOOD. Nice kit of the Lutzow. One of the very few. Quality is standard Heller, and yes, everybody hates the railings.
This kit shares the hull and armament of the Scheer and Graf Spee, aside for that and the main deck everything else is very different.
The appearance is well represented.
(RDF), review dated 3 August 2007.
Editor's Note: John Clements reviewed the Airfix Kriegsmarine re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. Two of these are provided, so plenty of scope for variants, as indeed there were in real life. The kit is less than 7 inches long and has 78 parts. I have not made up this kit but the parts look finer than the T-23 and Z-31, reviewed elsewhere in this list, and from the box it would seem to be both accurate compared to sources, and detailed, with the usual Heller provisos about AA guns, which are their standard pattern. Conversion to the later M-types would be possible but requires difficult and extensive surgery.
Variants provided for are:
Decals include the boot topping, ensigns and the eagle emblem on the bridge front. However, strangely, there are only enough for one boat!
Verdict: Excellent; requires little upgrading other than the usual PE replacements and railings.
(JRC), review dated 15 October, 2005
FAIR. An early Heller effort - and it shows. The deck will not fit into the hull without considerable effort; there is very little detail on the deck and superstructure; the two lattice masts are hopeless and the gun turrets very crude. Having said that, if you can make up new masts in plastic or brass rod, thin out all the clumsy edges and offset moulding lines, and use as much of L'Arsenal's PE details as you can, it's an impressive ship. (JRC)
Editor's Note: See also Surcouf.
Editor's Note: 82 parts. Said to be 18 inches long.
Editor's Notes:According to Heller, the kit is 485mm (19 inches) long, with 106 parts.
FAIR+. Molded in brown and white plastic, 99 parts, vacu-formed sails, paper pennants and flag. Extreme length of kit hull (hull only, not including outrigger): 8 and 3/4th inches. Keel: 6 and 1/2 inches. Beam: 2 and 5/8th inches.
The actual dimensions and appearance of the Nina, Pinta and Santa Maria are not known. Based on available knowledge about the caravel type of that period, most scholars estimate for Nina a 50 to 55 foot keel length. Measured in 1/75th scale, Heller's Nina has a keel of only 40 feet, definitely on the small side. Of interest, the size and shape of the Heller kit's hull and main deck match almost exactly the 1/100 scale general arrangement drawings found on page 111 of Xavier Pastor's THE SHIPS OF CHRISTOPHER COLUMBUS. If you wish to present Heller's Nina as 1/75th scale no one can prove you wrong. But treating it as 1/100 scale allows for compatible display with other historically significant ship types, as represented by Revell's 1/90th Santa Maria, Airfix's 1/96th Mayflower and Heller's 1/100th HMS Victory, among others.
Scholars have reconstructed lateen rigged caravels with 2, 3 or 4 masts. Heller presents Nina as two masted, fitting her with the lateen rig she started out with on Columbus' first voyage (the outbound leg, in the Canary Islands, Nina's rig was changed to that of a caravela rodonda: an additional mast was stepped in her bows, the main and foremast fitted with square sails).
Nice fit. Hull form and detailing conforms well with what is known about the 15th century caravel. Deck furniture/equipment is sparse, and for some the blocks and other rigging details will be too simplified. But with a little research, small touches can be added (fire box, binnacle, etc.), after-market blocks purchased.
Heller is known for molding wood grain onto their kits and, of course, it is always way over scale. As to whether it enhances appearance is a matter of taste. But one big advantage to molded in wood grain is that it allows the beginning modeler (or dilettante, such as myself) to brush paint the Nina without fear of the finished model being marred with brush marks. No need for the time and expense of airbrush and spray booth, or investing years developing brush skills, to get a pleasing result. This, coupled with the caravel's small size and simplicity of the lateen rig, means Heller's Nina is much more likely to see satisfactory completion than, say, Revell's 1/96th scale USS Constitution?
I highly recommend this kit.
(MDS), review dated 12 January 2004.
Editor's Note: This kit is presumably the same as, or at least closely related to, Heller's Z-31 kit, since Marceau and Z-31 were actually the same ship. (DRW)
FAIR. (Based on in-box review) Example of mine-sweeper built 1955 [aslo saw service with West German Navy] Kit in 48 pieces / full hull. Dimensions seem reasonably correct. Detailed sweep deck [floats / reels etc.] I think would build to a reasonable representation of the class. (AMc)
GOOD. (Based on in-box review) (JP)
GOOD. This kit represents the ship as built in 1956. It is a simple kit to put together and gives a convincing representation of this attractive class of escort vessel. As always, Heller capture the sheer line and bow flare very well. The details parts are quite fine and a great improvement on their first attempts at ship models, such as the Colbert and the T47 destroyers. Some parts can be thinned down, such as the mast components and gun barrels, but addition of L'Arsenal's excellent PE for doors, railings, 20mm guns, and radars really make the difference. If you can find one on Ebay, and they do come up regularly, it's well worth a look. (JRC)
Editor's Notes: le Normand was the lead ship of the class. This kit was issued as:
FAIR.
This kit, the Heller English Brigantine #L-955 and the Pourquoi-Pas? #L-950 are all related as are the Zvezda reissues Brigantine # 9011, Sirius (Occident) # 9013 and Pourquoi-Pas? # 9012. The question mark is supposed to be in the name of Pourquoi-Pas? because the name is equivalent to the English phrase "Why Not?".
How are they related? They all share the same hull, main deck pieces and a host of other parts including ships boats, plastic deadeyes, masts, yards, etc. Additional parts are included in each kit to differentiate them from one another. If I had to take a guess as to which one most closely resembles the real ship it would have to be the Pourquoi-Pas?, the others being for the most part fabrications. The modeler should consider them "typical" vessels of their type.
If you are a sailing ship enthusiast with a passion for accuracy stop, go no further, keep your wallet in your pocket. These ships are not for you (well maybe, you could tease out an accurate Pourquois-Pas? if you have the time and patience).
This kit supposedly represents a "typical" steam assisted sailing paddleship, most likely of the19th century. The directions claim twin ship status to the Sirius, a real ship. I'll leave that to the experts in sail.
On to the parts included. This is an all plastic kit that comes with vacuformed sails and a loom to create the ratlines. Deadeyes are solid cast plastic and there are no blocks or pulleys included. I built the Heller English Brigantine (the remarks are pertinent to this kit as well) ages ago and filched a bunch of plastic blocks from an old Revell Alabama kit as well as some of the figures and the pre-formed ratlines (stop cringing sail ship guys, I'm a casual builder). The parts, except for the masts and spars, all have typical Heller over scale wood grain effect to them, which really isn't all that bad for us casual builders. The wood grain on the hull stops at the waterline leaving that area dead smooth, as the comedians say "that cain't be right!". The fit of all these parts is entirely another matter. There are gaps and misalignments by the score in this kit. You will be very busy filling gaps and removing flash from most of the parts. One of the things that exacerbates the fit problem was Heller's attempt to get three ship kits out of one set of molds. There is a hole dead center in the ship's hull just below the cap railing for "alternate" parts for each kit. In the case of the Occident/Sirius this is a junction point for the ship's paddle wheel assembly. It doesn't matter what it is for, nothing fits right (I have all three versions, so I know from experience). You will have to finesse and putty this area as well as the transom/stern areas with great care for a good appearance. The Brigantine kit has a simple flat stern but the Occident/Sirius kit has a bulbous after cabin that will be very hard to align and fit. A nice touch is the clear plastic parts included for the various cabin windows, it's nice because when you put them in the view is so distorted you can't see into the unfinished areas inside. The main deck is divided into three sections which leave truly horrendous visible seams to deal with, wood grain notwithstanding. Seeing as how so many parts are shared among the kits it is really hard to say what is right for any of them. You will certainly have to obtain blocks, line for standing and running rigging (to substitute for the hairy stuff that Heller included but not for the Zvezda repops as they included nice stuff), etc. for even a casual rigging job and while you are doing it make sure you have a light touch as the plastic spars bend easily. Sailing ship mavens will want to replace all parts for masts and spars with wood or metal.
In spite of the fact that the kit has so many fit problems and lacks a number of essential parts to properly rig for the casual builder the finished product can be convincing enough. I was even able to use the vacuformed sails with a moderately convincing effect. The directions on the other hand are for the casual builder only. Sailing ship buffs will consult their own sources for the rigging.
(WJS), review dated 8 April 2008.
Editor's Note: Said to be 156mm long when completed. Said to have 22 parts. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Said to be 138mm long when completed. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Issued by Heller in the 1960s sometime. See my review of the Novo re-issue. (DRW)
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
This kit, the Occident #L-960 and the English Brigantine? # L-955 are all related as are the Zvezda reissues Brigantine # 9011, Sirius (Occident) # 9013 and Pourquoi-Pas? # 9012. The question mark is supposed to be in the name of Pourquoi-Pas? because the name is equivalent to the English phrase "Why Not?".
How are they related? They all share the same hull, main deck pieces and a host of other parts including ships boats, plastic deadeyes, masts, yards, etc. Additional parts are included in each kit to differentiate them from one another. If I had to take a guess as to which one most closely resembles the real ship it would have to be the Pourquoi-Pas?, the others being for the most part fabrications. The modeler should consider them "typical" vessels of their type.
If you are a sailing ship enthusiast with a passion for accuracy stop, go no further, keep your wallet in your pocket. These ships are not for you (well maybe, you could tease out an accurate Pourquois-Pas? if you have the time and patience).
This kit supposedly represents a specially built steam screw assisted polar exploration sailing ship probably unknown outside of France. I'll leave that to the experts in sail.
On to the parts included. This is an all plastic kit that comes with vacuformed sails and a loom to create the ratlines. Deadeyes are solid cast plastic and there are no blocks or pulleys included. I built the Heller English Brigantine (the remarks are pertinent to this kit as well) ages ago and filched a bunch of plastic blocks from an old Revell Alabama kit as well as some of the figures and the pre-formed ratlines (stop cringing sail ship guys, I'm a casual builder). The parts, except for the masts and spars, all have typical Heller over scale wood grain effect to them, which really isn't all that bad for us casual builders. The wood grain on the hull stops at the waterline leaving that area dead smooth, as the comedians say "that cain't be right!". The fit of all these parts is entirely another matter. There are gaps and misalignments by the score in this kit. You will be very busy filling gaps and removing flash from most of the parts. One of the things that exacerbates the fit problem was Heller's attempt to get three ship kits out of one set of molds. There is a hole dead center in the ship's hull just below the cap railing for "alternate" parts for each kit. In the case of the Pourquoi-Pas? this is just a section of hull with what looks like gunports. It doesn't matter what it is for, nothing fits right (I have all three versions, so I know from experience). You will have to finesse and putty this area as well as the transom/stern areas with great care for a good appearance. A nice touch is the clear plastic parts included for the various cabin windows, it's nice because when you put them in the view is so distorted you can't see into the unfinished areas inside. The main deck is divided into three sections which leave truly horrendous visible seams to deal with, wood grain notwithstanding. Seeing as how so many parts are shared among the kits it is really hard to say what is right for any of them. You will certainly have to obtain blocks, line for standing and running rigging (to substitute for the hairy stuff that Heller included but not for the Zvezda repops as they included nice stuff), etc. for even a casual rigging job and while you are doing it make sure you have a light touch as the plastic spars bend easily. Sailing ship mavens will want to replace all parts for masts and spars with wood or metal.
In spite of the fact that the kit has so many fit problems and lacks a number of essential parts to properly rig for the casual builder the finished product can be convincing enough. I was even able to use the vacuformed sails with a moderately convincing effect. The directions on the other hand are for the casual builder only. Sailing ship buffs will consult their own sources for the rigging.
(WJS), review dated 8 April 2008.
FAIR. (based on in-box review) Built 1908. Sail/screw. Heller Cadet series, smaller version of their larger scale plastic kit. This bark-rigged vessel was built for Polar ocean explorations by a French explorer, little heard of outside of France, except for Polar exploration fans.
http://www.south-pole.com/p0000096.htm
Correctly, the name would include a question mark -"POURQUOI PAS?", meaning "Why Not?". The vessel actually served as a Q ship during WWI but apparently did not encounter any U-boats. The ship, being strongly constructed for service in ice fields, was also very heavily masted and the thick masts and yards of the kit may not be out of scale. Upper hull and deck has wood texture. Sails are molded furled. Boats are heavy and thickwalled; Funnel. etc. are not unreasonable.
(Brooks), review dated 20 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Said to be 142mm long when completed. Brooks confirms that there are 37 parts. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Said to be over 3 feet long when completed. Said to have 572 parts.(DRW)
EXCELLENT. Overall this an excellent kit, perhaps the best KM ship Heller ever produced. In general, the fit is good, except for the forward AAA director towers - mine just refused to sit down until I had reduced the radius of the base and thinned out the walls on the tower (lowest edge). The only other major bug-a-boo is that the aft anchor was connected to a howser cable in the real ship - not a chain as depicted in the kit. With the addition of PE and a more accurate AAA outfit, it can be made into an excellent model.
Heller gives you a relatively good AAA fit for this kit, but the positioning of some of the 20mm quads is questionable. I suggest that you really research the ship and decide what period you want her to depict. While I really loved the fact that Heller at last gave you 20mm quads, their decision to have you glue a barrel assembly to locating pins on the turrets and former searchlight positions certainly limits your flexibility here. Spares from a Heller Z-31 kit will come in handy here. (And to think people laugh at me when I tell them I bought 11 of Heller's Z-31 kits - 10 to build and one for spare parts!)
Period notes:
If your version comes with the boot-topping decal strip - don't use it - KM ships used a very dark gray for the waterline demarkation marking.
The flag set is wrong with all but the very first issue of this kit - as Heller has since decided to abide by the German ban on the swastika. (PKHM)
EXCELLENT. I have always had a great affection for the Heller kits, as although they do lack modern levels of detail, and have the odd howler, they are usually of ships not available in the larger scale elsewhere (or haven't been until comparatively recently), and can be made to look quite good. I think that they do capture the lines of the subjects very well, even if the detail can be a bit off at times. As far as this one is concerned, I think it is one of the better ones. The release of GMM's PE fret for German ships in 1/400 has made detailing much easier; I had previously bashed around the 1/350 Bismarck set. Things would be even better if WEM or another supplier could produce the light AA pieces (the single 20's are on the GMM fret), which fit all German ships, of course, and a better Arado 196; GMM have the struts, but the whole plane needs replacing really.
For references I am using the Floating Drydock plan, supplemented by the Koop and Schmolke Vom Original zum Modell (for which you need a magnifying glass to read the plans), and a very good 1/600 1945 fit plan which appeared in the Scale Models Magazine in July 1977 in the final part of a three-part review of all the then available kits of the ship, including the Heller one. There are numerous photographs available.
You can get a fantastic amount of detail on a model of this size and if, like me, your normal scale is 1/700, it's a nice change to do those extra little details that you can't do in the smaller scale. (JRC)
EXCELLENT. As usual Heller's production of the Prinz Eugen is possibly their best work. I really can not add much to the details already mentioned, but I will say this: Anyone who has built this kit has probably tried to get the Heller Hipper, which is no longer produced and expensive to buy. You can make the Hipper fairly easily. The biggest job is the bow area. The biggest job is the bow and hangar area. Once you have reshaped these your work is about done. After that some minor superstructure work and only the most knowledgeable will know the difference.
Other conversions include:
(RDF), review updated 10 April 2007
Editor's Note: Said to be 146mm long. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Said to be 34.6 inches long. Said to have over 900 parts.(DRW)
GOOD. Simple kit of the first French boomer. Overall black paint scheme, small number of parts, makes a quick addition to any sub collection and a nice contrast to the USN and USSR SSBN subs which dominate the modeling market. Some filling and sanding needed around the sail and top of hull but nothing too major. (DH)
EXCELLENT. This one will knock your socks off! (DRW)
It takes quite a bit of work, though. (AP?)
EXCELLENT. I agree that it is a long project if you want it done right. I would recommend brass railings, since the plastic ones are too thick and snap too easily. Heller has been very good about replacing missing parts from my Richelieu. (JP)
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: The kit does not specifically indicate year of fit, however, it would appear from the plethora of 40 mm and 20 mm AAA that the model represents the late war fit.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded plastic kit supplemented with metal chain for the anchors. There is a small decal sheet with ship’s name and patriotic slogans as well as a paper flag sheet. Plastic railings are also included. The model is a creature of the 1970s and has been reissued several times over the last few decades. My remarks refer to the initial offering, your mileage may vary with regard to crispness, flash, etc.
Nonetheless, the dark gray moldings are crisp and have pretty good surface detail, especially for the era. Wood planking detail certainly is not up to today’s standards, rather it is of the raised line variety with no butt ends to the planks but I have seen excellent effects achieved with this to work with. My kit has little to no flash so preparation will be of the usual for a plastic kit, removing seams and smoothing out joint lines. The hull is in two halves with no provision for waterlining. Some of the later Heller kits like King George V #1060 have an incised line in the hull for a waterline option. The hull pieces, main battery and main deck are shared with the Jean Bart #1020 model. Inside the hull and underneath the deck are markings for the appropriate portholes and openings to be drilled out to fit the kit specific parts. This has the added benefit of making painting the deck much easier as the vast majority of fittings are added later. I wish all manufacturers would do this. ( I have to admit that I have been seduced by the latest thing in large scale 3rd party add ons: the micro thin real wood decks!, no more painting wood decks for me). Getting back to the deck, it is all one piece. There are no ugly and inconvenient deck joints to fret over.
So far good news, so why not rate this kit excellent? Now the bad news: turrets are multi-piece which will be hard to put together without bringing out the putty. The main battery gun barrels are just awful (happily brass ones are available for this kit). AA guns are nice looking but over scale. The 40 mm guns are pretty basic. The bonus of the included plastic railings really isn’t one. They are downright clunky and hugely out of scale, they look like tree trunks strung together. There is mitigation here though, a dedicated photo etch detail set is available from your favorite hobby vendor that includes not just railings but everything you need to dress this kit up just like one of the newest ones. It is made by a French company called L’Arsenal. They can also provide brass barrels.
Directions: large format sheets with many blown up line drawings. Painting directions are called out in a summary of part numbers on the page with a line drawing of the completed ship. As to the color suggestions I would take them with a grain of salt. Overall I would rate the instructions as very good to excellent except for the painting directions as there really doesn’t appear to be any ambiguity present. One downside of the early editions is that the directions are in French. Translations of the French into German and English are provided on a supplementary page that lacks the line drawings so that you will have to lay the sheets side by side if you wish to reference the explanations.
Packaging: huge flimsy cardboard box that is so oversized that the parts flop around inside it like a freshly caught fish on the dock. Expect lots of plastic rash on the big pieces. Small parts are all bagged in plastic wrap.
Despite its flaws and age I would still highly recommend this kit to anyone interested in battleship design and/or the navies of Europe. It is still a pretty good kit even by today’s standards. It is regularly available on eBay and with old kit brokers and now and then with new kit brokers. There is an alternative available in 1/350 from Trumpeter but it has a number of accuracy issues that will be very hard to fix. If you want to assemble a fleet of France’s last battleships at this time the only way to go is the Heller 1/400 kits of Richelieu, Jean Bart, Dunkerque and Strasbourg.
(WJS), review dated 12 September 2011.
Editor's Note: See also the related Jean Bart.
Editor's Note: Said to be 142mm long. (DRW)
Editor's Note: John Clements reviewed the Airfix Kriegsmarine re-issue of this kit, which apparently included six boats instead of two. (DRW)
FAIR. One can't help wondering why so many! All are identical on one sprue each. The box claims they have 52 pieces, but this must have been lifted from the old 2 boat kit, as they actually have 26 pieces, and that includes the base and nameplate. In an injection moulded kit of this size and age, there are obvious limitations, and it shows. The armament, and again Heller falls down here, does provide some variety, though it is not made clear what they all are.
Variants in the instructions are:
Decals are provided for 7 different E-boat flotillas.
Verdict: Fair for the scale; I think there are better 1/350 versions available, but these are cheap if you buy the set for the other kits.
(JRC), review dated 15 October, 2005
Editor's Note: Apparently, this is a re-issue of the Gowland Santa Maria. See Tim Reynaga's review of the Airfix Santa Maria for a full review. (DRW)
GOOD. Overall the kit is good. AAA fit is inadequate - use good references. The kit tries to represent the ship as of the 1942 channel dash, but the AAA fit is completely wrong for this period. Unfortunately, sources differ greatly on this. For example, there are no 20mm quads and too few 20mm singles. At the very least, she carried 6 20mm quads and 10 single 20mm's during the dash. At least one of the 20mm quads (on B turret) was removed immediately after the dash. It also has an open bridge, which again is wrong for 1942 and beyond. However, the catapult, hanger and aft tripod mast are correct - if basic - for a post 1942 fit. The fit of the tripod mast is not good - its legs will interfere with the catapult if you want it to rotate freely. It should be moved a little further aft, as it should not sit right against the rear of the hanger as Heller depicts it. Changing this, will perhaps force you to modify the length of the structure immediately aft of the mast. At least Heller does provide both the 21 " triple TT's and the armoured lockers for her spare torpedos. I have read that the rear 280MM turret is located too far aft, but I have not confirmed this. Also, Heller gives you a centre bow anchor - this should not be used and all the holes for it and its chain should be filled - if you are going for a post-1939 fit. The full-length main deck features three open stairways without covers - you can add PE/scrap plastic covers from scrap plastic or PE and portray them in either the open or closed position. The main fault is that Heller doesn't provide the prop-shafts and supports for the two outboard propellers. I used spares/scrap pieces pulled off of my old Airfix Bismarck and Tirpitz to remedy this oversight. They may a little short, but fit well given the physical restraints of the aft hull.
Heller's camo is ok but not very colourful or helpful - but there are several nice schemes for the Scharnhorst during the dash, during her return to Norway and the Spitzbergen operation as well as a very nice temporary scheme that she wore for a brief period in early 1943. Good research is the key!
If your version comes with the boot-topping decal strip - don't use it - KM ships used a very dark gray for the waterline demarcation marking.
The flag set is wrong with all but the very first issue of this kit - as Heller has since decided to abide by the German ban on the swastika.
With PE (WEM has a set dedicated for Heller's Scharnhorst and Gneisenau and perhaps Tom', and don't forget WEM's KM AAA set) and good references it can be made into a great model. My Scharnhorst was built many years ago, and she is still one of my favorite ships. (PKHM)
Editor's Notes: Presumably, this kit is a close relative of the Heller Gneisenau.
GOOD. The kit shows Scheer later in the war, with the Atlantic bow and raised funnel. (AP)
FAIR. This kit is a real mix-up.
A) It is missing the post 1940 refit degaussing cable. I solved this problem by cutting a piece of thread, running it through white glue and pasting it in place. After spraypainting, it adhered nicely to the hull. In fact, my Scheer is about 20 years old now and the cable is still in place.
B) The general superstructure (forward) is post 1940 refit, but the funnel cap seems to be circa 1942, while the funnel ring appears to be in its 1939/40 fit. Bryer's "bible" depicts a more triangular shaped funnel platform with only three search light positions. I re-shaped and added plastic as needed to achieve this!
C) In 1940, the aft superstructure of the Scheer seems to have been enlarged as well. I resolved this problem by cutting the screenings around the aft 4.1 inch mounts, moving them forward, and adding strips of plastic to the deck. I simulated the the deck grooves by carefully scratching them into thenew plastic.
D) I added the radar mattress and a cupola to the rear range finder. If you do this, be very careful with the catapult - the tail of the Ar 196 will hit it!
E) I added another, smaller, radar screen just aft of the one fitted by Heller on the foretop cupola, as well as an assortment of 20 mm quads, twins, singles as well as 40mm singles.
In short, a lot of detail work, but she at least looks like all of her is the same time period.
If your version comes with the boot-topping decal strip - don't use it - KM ships used a very dark gray for the waterline demarkation marking.
The flag set is wrong with all but the very first issue of this kit - as Heller has since decided to abide by the German ban on the swastika. (PKHM)
GOOD. I have seen two versions of this kit. One refitted and the other original configuration. I am not sure if they are both Heller, but I seem to recall it that way.
I have this kit in the early configuration with the armored tower. In this kit the box displays the ship in a bow starboard quarter position. It the late war refit with the poll mast and racked fuller the box shows the ship from astern, port quarter, (oddly the direct opposite view!)
Over all, a nice kit.
(RDF), review dated 3 August 2007
See Commandant Rivière.
EXCELLENT. In addition t its 1/400 warship line, Heller also produced a small number of commercial vessels in the larger 1/200 scale. In this case, the largest and most powerful ocean-going tug built to date. Many modelers will recognize this kit as the ship on the Heller paint display stand. Like most Heller kits, hull is billaterally split. You will need to plan out the paintng carefully, as there are several half-decks which blend into the superstructure. Decals included for either Smit Rotterdam or London (since kit was released, at least one more tug has been added to the class). Detailing on parts is great, fits are good, little filler needed. (DH)
GOOD+. A good rendition as usual, with some of the smaller bits a bit fuzzier than one might desire. (AP)
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: This kit shares most of its parts with the Heller #1025, Dunkerque so please see my build up review of that kit for remarks on the parts, directions, packaging, availability, etc. as they will apply equally. It is not a simple a rebox of the same parts with new artwork, there are parts to differentiate the ship from Dunkerque. The box art (Spanish Civil War markings) and kit contents seem to fix the kit’s fit to 1936. If you find one of these kits, buy it. It may not be the latest and the greatest but it makes for a satisfying build.
(WJS), review dated 12 September 2011.
GOOD. (based on in-box review) (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Suffren was the lead ship of the class. This kit was issued as:
GOOD. (Based on in-box review) (JP)
Editor's Notes: Heller has released the "as-built" T47 kit as:
See also Kersaint for John Clements' review of the T47 Tartar conversion. Apparently, none of these kits reflect the Malafon conversion. I would assume that the T53 kit (Forbin) is also related. (DRW)
Surcouf is "as-built" with three twin 127mm and two twin 57mm, while the D-T shows her with the Tartar conversion. (JP)
GOOD/EXCELLENT: General Comments; The "Le Suroit" ship's claim to fame is the fact that it was the first ship that Dr. Bob Ballard used to look for the RMS Titanic, and failed. Still, the ship did succeed in eliminating a vast portion of the search pattern, an accomplishment of sorts. At the time, the 'Le Suroit' was the most advanced civilian ship available that was capable of conducting the sort of search operation that Ballard envisioned, and the lessons he learned were used for the successful exploration of the Titanic site, as well as the sites of the Lusitania, Mauritania, and USS Yorktown (to name a few). The kit builds great right out of the box - a very impressive piece of model engineering. The crane used for lifting the RSV (the mini-sub) comes with clear plastic housing for the windows and clear plastic is also available for other windows on the kit, too. The hull fit is flawless and the multi-stage decking fits exactly the way its supposed to. The decals are thorough and complete, though I haven't gotten far enough along in the construction process to actually apply them. The masts and radars are multi-piece so expect to have a lot of sub-assemblies going on the workbench at the same time (which is nice, as you don't have to wait for one piece to dry before going on to the next stage of construction). I did have to sand down the seam lines on some of the smaller masts and there was some excess, but that was no big deal to clean up. The RSV support hoist begs for some cables and chain, and I have some spare anchor chain lying around that will do nicely. I wish the kit had come with some sailor figures, but I did find some pre-painted model train Z-scale "Workers In Rain Coats" figures by Preisser that are a little out-of-scale but should still fit the bill well enough. (TW)
EXCELLENT. Another of Heller's non-military kits, good detail, bilaterally split hull. Includes deep sea submersible which sits on the stern deck. This kit may actually scale out a touch smaller than 1/200, so finding appropriate PE may be an issue. I kit bashed mine by using the Trumpeter set which comes with the 1/200 Sovremenny kit. If you cut off the bottom leg (its comes originally with 4 bars), size seems to work really well. (DH)
GOOD. If only somebody would build a 1/600 version of this class, oh the possibilities. Great for building the numerous variants of this class ship. (RDF)
Editor's Note: John Clements reviewed the Airfix Kriegsmarine re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
GOOD. This kit is of similar quality to the Narvik class Z-31 destroyer reviewed later in this list. A good likeness but lacking in the same areas of detail, which are easily remedied by the experienced modeller with some references. Additional to the original kit (I believe) is a 20mm bow chaser. Two bridge variants are provided; the 'long bridge' version attributed to T22/23, and the 'short bridge version to T28/36. I am not sure about this distinction, as I have a picture of T23 with a short bridge. Another minor niggle is that T31-36 were built without the prominent bow knuckle, but this still leaves plenty to choose from.
Disruptive colour schemes are given for T22 'Le Havre 9 July 1943' and T23 1943/1945 which look appropriate for Channel-based boats and concur with the few photographs of this class. T28/T36 are shown in plain light grey; correct for the Baltic.
Again, boot topping strip is provided, incorrect flags, and a full set of numbers.
Verdict: Good, and can be much improved by detail.
(JRC), review dated 15 October, 2005
GOOD. Like the Bismarck, a good if basic kit.
It does not come with any 20mm quads, and you should discard the very strange large twin AAA mountings that Heller does provide for the B turret and the front edge of her forward superstructure. I actually read the ship's log for June 1944 which reported that her AAA totaled 106 barrels, from which I deduced that the Tirpitz carried either 54, 62 or 74 20mm guns - assuming that she was never equipped with 40mm's and that her 37mm's were never augmented. Its hard to calculate because we don't know if this total includes or excludes her main armament as well as her secondary mounts. Also, Heller doesn't provide you with the 2 21 inch quad TT mounts that she carried after her arrival in Norway in 1942. I used spare mounts from Heller's Z-31 kit - but they do seem a little bit large.
The domed aft AAA directors are correct, but you may want to update them to incorporate the Würzburg device that was fitted on one of them.
I remember being disappointed that you could not make the 105mm guns rotate!
Like the Bismarck, she suffers from a lack of detail on her main parts - but the plain 380 barbarettes are actually accurate for this ship.
Heller only gives you a very basic camo pattern, she actually carried some very good ones and you should research her appearance very carefully before deciding on which pattern to use.
If your version comes with the boot-topping decal strip - don't use it - KM ships used a very dark gray for the waterline demarkation marking.
The flag set is wrong with all but the very first issue of this kit - as Heller has since decided to abide by the German ban on the swastika.
This kit cries out for PE (see the usual suspects). (PKHM)
Editor's Note: This kit is said to have 340 parts. Presumably, this kit is a variant of the Heller Bismarck. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Tourville was the lead ship of the class.
Editor's Note: John Clements reviewed the Airfix Kriegsmarine re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
FAIR. I am not a U-boat expert, but this seemed to me to be the weakest kit in the set. The overall impression is not bad but the detailed parts, especially those provided to convert into a VII 41 with enhanced flak armament are rather crude, but these can be replaced. I think this kit is only of value if you want to make a diorama with others in the set, and even then, the Mirage kits might be worth looking at as an alternative. By way of compensation, decals are provided for 11 U-boat flotillas.
Verdict: Fair.
(JRC), review dated 15 October, 2005
Editor's Note: 409 parts, 700mm long
EXCELLENT: This is probably the most accurate plastic kit of Nelson's H.M.S. Victory of Trafalgar fame. It is a huge model, 43.3 inches (110 cm) long and 27.5 inches (70 cm) tall. The box is so big, it has a handle. With 2107 parts it is a kit not for the faint of heart. Some of the 104 cannons are composed of as many as eight parts.
The kit's accuracy compares very favorably with numerous authoritative sources, including the actual ship which rests in drydock today beautifully preserved (http://www.cix.co.uk/~flagship/Victory.htm or www.hms-victory.com/home).
Despite its amazing accuracy, large size and that the manufacturer is foreign (usually expensive), the shrewd builder can find it from some retailers online for as little as $79. A similar kit of Victory in wood at this scale or the more common 1/96 costs several hundred dollars. See the Mantua or Corel wood kits for comparison.
The history of the original ship is well known and documented. Builders should take note that the ship was already old by the time she fought at Trafalgar and has been modified extensively throughout her history appearing differently at different battles. The kit documentation states the kit as Victory appeared at Trafalgar on October 21st, 1805. The kit is very close to how Victory appeared at the battle and can be built straight from the box into a masterpiece.
The actual ship is under renovation which will restore her to her Trafalgar appearance by 2005, the 200th anniversary of the battle. At this writing, her current rig and details are accurate to her appearance after Trafalgar, circa 1812.
The only inaccuracy worth mentioning is how Heller advises the modeler to paint the ship. Modelers should check other sources to determine a more accurate color scheme. The official H.M.S. Victory website (http://www.hms-victory.com/modelmakers.htm) contains excellent color scheme notes for the modeler regarding how Victory appeared at Trafalgar. The most obvious kit error is the location of the yellow-ochre stripes which roughly correspond to the three gun decks. Trafalgar-era paintings of the ship and others show yellow-ochre to be more buff than yellow. The real ship's boats are also painted differently than the simplistic style of those in the kit.
Two great sources for painting other than the official website are the books "Epic Sea Battles" by William Koenig (ISBN 0 7064 0445 9) which shows a beautiful two page print of Victory on pages 44-45, and "The 100-gun Ship Victory" by John McKay (ISBN 0 87021-890-5) includes exhaustive detailed drawings.
I find that a kit of this scale and complexity is never really done, especially since more information about the actual ship is being discovered and published regularly. There is always some detail to accurize or improve! And since the fun is building the model, a kit like this is sure to provide a long time of enjoyment.
In summary, this kit is for the ambitious builder who truly desires a large, museum-quality model. The one word which best describes this kit is "magnificent". (SLC)
GOOD. Very good detail overall. There are some minor fit problems at the bow and deck area. Luckily we have two scales of this ship to provide escorts for all those German Admirals out there. With ingenuity and determination you have endless options with this ship, just like you do with Airfix's Narvik DD (only larger scale) Great for building the numerous variants of this class ship. For details refer to Airfix 1/600 scale Narvik. The only difference is the scale of parts. Instead of 1/700 use 1/400 from WEM.
(RDF), review updated 10 April 2007.
Editor's Note: John Clements reviewed the Airfix Kriegsmarine re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
GOOD. The kit captures the lines of the original very well. As usual with Heller, there is quite a lot of fine detail in some places, whilst in others it is missing. The anti-aircraft armament, range-finders and radars are poor but reflect the age of the kit. These can be replaced with PE. New are 4 single AA weapons which are presumably 37mm or 40mm singles. Only 2 are referred to in the instructions, and they are best replaced anyway.
Variants catered for are the standard as built version with either a single or twin forward turret, Z31 with the single 105mm forward as in 1945, those with a second radar carried in the searchlight position, and those with four twin 20mm fitted forward in their 'Barbara' fit. The suggested schemes show Z31 in 1945 in overall light grey, with one 150 mm turret forward, and the four 20mm twins. This is clearly a mistake as she should have the 105mm turret and the second radar. The second version is 'Z32/Z33' shown in standard fit (but with second radar, which I believe was not fitted on Z32) with the inverted V medium and darker grey stripes (where the stripes converge on the gap between the two funnels and reach to the waterline) shown in photographs of these ships, and the third version is Z37, also with standard weapons but second radar, and with a similar converging stripe pattern that curves up from the waterline at each end. The camouflage is corroborated, but I doubt the second radar was ever fitted as, like Z32, she did not serve in the Baltic and was out of action by mid-44.
Verdict: Good kit, good attempt to improve the original but confused colour and fit schemes. Plenty of scope for variants and detailing. Incorrectly black boot topping decals are provided, and a set of numbers to customise the name plaque. (JRC), review dated 15 October, 2005
Editor's Note: This kit is presumably the same as, or at least closely related to, Heller's Marceau kit, since Marceau and Z-31 were actually the same ship. (DRW)
Hi Mold is another resin department of SkyWave.
They also have another line of resin ship kits, called Waveline.
Portrays the ship before her full-flight deck refit.
Full Hull special.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1941.
FAIR.
Kit Parts: all resin cast model with turned brass main battery gun barrels. One piece highly detailed hull with several large, nasty pour plug stubs along one side. The remaining pieces, all cast in the same weird light green resin were all on sprues similar to an injection molded kit and as a consequence of this technique each part had lots of flash and many had several attachment points. They were all very difficult to clean up without damaging the part. On the kit that I bought and built I found more than a few of these parts to be unusable, run, don't walk, to your hobby supplier and get the Tom's photo-etch fret #720 because you are really going to need it. While you're there, don't forget to pick up various dimensions of brass rod or tubing ‘cause your going to need them too. You will be throwing away the resin legs of the fore and main masts so you'll have plenty of use for your brass rod. Although the hull and deck were nicely detailed this model cannot compare to previously issued kits in this series (see my remarks on Hi Mold #041 USS California).
Directions:: multipage format similar to those of the California kit.
Packaging: same as California kit.
Build Notes: this model is not at all similar to previous kits by Hi Mold, it is frustrating with lots of flash, malformed parts, hard to get rid of pour stubs and needs to have too many parts substituted from other sources.
(WJS), review dated 2 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1941.
EXCELLENT.
Kit Parts: multimedia kit with most parts in light gray resin but also includes brass rod, decals, brass turned main battery gun barrels, white metal castings, plastic sheet for some platforms and a stainless photo-etch sheet which consists of radar equipment, cage masts, aft crane, boat cranes, and boat racks. Hull is a one piece casting up to the main deck that is very detailed. All resin parts are cleanly cast with very little cleanup needed to go ahead with construction. Cast metal parts require a bit more cleanup but not anything more difficult than a typical injection molded kit. One odd note, even though the kit includes a pe fret both catapults are cast somewhat clumsily in metal. You will probably want to replace them with pe although I did not do so myself. There are no aircraft with the kit. Otherwise, everything you need to complete this kit is provided.
Directions:: 6 pages of densely printed Japanese. Pages 1 & 2 consist of various admonitions in Japanese (?), parts lists, pictographic parts lists and illustrations with measurements of parts you will need to fabricate from the provided plastic and brass stock. Any modeler with a little experience should have no trouble here. Pages 3-5 contain exploded view assembly instructions in a suggested sequence to assist in the building of the model. Page 6 supplies very nice line drawings of side and overhead views and suggestions for the demarcation point of the MS-1 camouflage scheme colors, also basic statistics on the ship.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with photo of completed model as box art. Parts separated into small baggies and then taped to the bottom of the box to minimize the potential for damage in shipping and storage.
Build Notes: Construction is pretty straightforward, almost like a very easy injection molded kit except for two things; first, the stainless pe fret is just a bit hard to work with if you are used to softer brass pe, but you will be thankful for it when you go to assemble the racks/supports for the ships boats. Second, difficulty arises in painting this ship. The resin used is very glossy, almost slick and tends to cause fisheye effects in acrylic paints even after scrubbing with various cleaners and solvents. I had no problem with oil based paints painting other ships of the class right out of the box.
Anyone used to working with 1/700 kits will love building this one. The finished model looks so real it is astounding.
(WJS), review dated 2 February 2006.
OOB: VERY GOOD: Depicts her in as-built outfit, with two forward twin turrets and no Exocet. If you want to build her or her sisters in later fit, you'll need to steal parts from WEM sets and/or buy the Skywave E-4 set, although the latter's Exocets are too big. My model is well-cast, with few, if any, air bubbles. Their casting technique also leaves only small pieces of "sprue" instead of big chunks to sand off, and the smaller parts are in either resin or white metal. Unfortunately, there are no PE parts, so the Seaslug launcher and radars are solid masses of metal. WEM photo-etch is a must to replace the radars and add helo deck safety netting and ladders. The Seaslug launcher? On that, you're stuck. (JP)
EXCELLENT. The second kit is the Hi Mold (Pit Road) Fuso. This represents Fuso in 1941, and the kit is very similar to the elegant Nagato kit which came out a couple of years ago. (I've built that kit, pictures were posted on Warship about a year ago.) The hull has excellent detail, but the stern is warped, and will require hot water treatment to straighten it. It is waterline of course, and in comparison to the old Aoshima kit, it has dramatically less freeboard. When I first looked at it, it looked so low in the water that I thought it could not be right, so I pulled out my copy of the Anatomy book on Fuso. Either the kit and the book came from the same original source, or the kit builder used the book, because the drawings in the book match the hull (and its waterline position) in the kit. From the book, it looks like the ship originally had more freeboard, but as that huge pagoda and other things were added, it seemed to ride lower in the water. I haven't prepared all the parts and dry fit them, but from the looks of the drawings on the instructions, I think the kit will get that unmistakeable profile of the pagoda just right. The pagoda components, the funnel and the main battery turrets are the remaining resin parts, and they are very well done. They are done from three dimensional molds, and have great detail both top and bottom. Turned metal barrels are provided for the main battery, a very nice touch. There is a small packet of white metal "bits" for some of the smaller parts, together with three injected styrene Skywave IJN weapons sprues. Brass rod is included for the masts and yards, plus a decal sheet with flags and aircraft markings. There is no photoetched fret included, but one is apparently available separately. Pacific Front has this on order. It is my understanding that this will be Fuso specific parts, and a generic fret will still be required.
The instructions are entirely in Japanese, but have very well drawn exploded views showing where all the parts go. This again was similar to the Nagato kit, and I eventually mastered those. One worrisome thing was small piece of paper covered with Japanese writing which fell out of the instruction sheet. I'm guessing this is describing some sort of last minute correction, but who knows...
This is a very good, and very expensive kit. I have no doubt it will build up to look just as good as the Nagato, and be dramatically better than the old Aoshima kit.
(JK) review dated 13 June 2000.
Portrays the ship before her full-flight deck refit.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1941.
EXCELLENT. Please see my remarks for Hi Mold #041 USS California as they would be the same for this kit. Slight differences of this kit from her sister ship(s) have been accommodated but are hardly noticeable. (WJS)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT. The High Mold Nagato is an outstanding, but expensive kit. It is far superior to the old Aoshima kit of the same ship ... It is a multimedia kit. The hull, superstructure, funnels, etc are cast resin. For the smaller pieces and weapons, several Skywave injected styrene IJN weapons sprues are included. These are augmented by a small pack of excellent white metal parts. Brass rod is included for the masts. You will need some good additional references to get the masts right. No photoetched parts are provided, the search light tower is resin, and the catapault, crane, etc are white metal. When I built the kit, I used GMM IJN battleship parts to good advantage. If you are going to spend the money for this kit, spend a little more for the photoetched parts. The instructions are entirely in Japanese, but the exploded parts diagrams are good enough to build the model with a little study. The kit built up wonderfully well. Particularly noteworthy was the quality of the pagoda foremast, which was completely inadequate on the old Aoshima kit.
In summary, this is a beautiful kit, which builds up to a great looking and accurate model. Since its release, Aoshima have released a newer molding of the Nagato. I have not seen this kit, but reports are it is also excellent. Before I invested the money in this kit, I would check out the new Aoshima kit and make an informed price/value decision.
(JK), review dated 17 June 2000.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is a resin model that comes with a lot of cast metal parts. The hull is a one piece casting that is just crammed with exquisite detail. It always amazes me to see such fine work done in this hobby. The other resin pieces are also finely detailed with minimal prep needed to assemble the model. Cast metal pieces will need more work before they can be used but no more so than the average injection molded kit. Brass rod and plastic sheet are also included to fabricate masts, spars and platforms. There is also a set of decals with national ensigns included. Be aware that Hi Mold uses a very slick resin for their castings and that this may cause fisheye effects in acrylic paints. Test your paints after thoroughly cleaning the parts.
Directions:: very thorough assembly diagrams showing all subassemblies and the master assembly in exploded view. Painting is also covered using a diagram showing a camouflage scheme using Gunze Sangyo paint numbers.
Packaging: sturdy well marked cardboard box, all parts wrapped in baggies, hull in bubble wrap and all materials taped down to the bottom of the box.
(WJS), review dated 6 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1941.
EXCELLENT. Please see my remarks for Hi Mold #041 USS California as they would be the same for this kit. Slight differences of this kit from her sister ship(s) have been accommodated but are hardly noticeable. (WJS)
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1941.
EXCELLENT. Please see my remarks for Hi Mold #041 USS California as they would be the same for this kit. Slight differences of this kit from her sister ship(s) have been accommodated but are hardly noticeable. (WJS)
Their web page.
Editor's Note: Apparently, this is a 2009 re-issue of the Banner Arizona.
Editor's Note: See notes under Los Angeles-class The real Greeneville has the propulsor and other features of the 688i class. I don't know if the kit reflects that.
Editor's Note: See notes under Spruance-class.
Editor's Note: NATO code-name Oscar II.
Editor's Note: This kit, or close variants of it, has been issued as:
EXCELLENT. This small submarine is the Chinese version of the Soviet Project 633 (Romeo) class as built for the People's Liberation Army Navy (PLAN) in the 1960s-70s. The hull ts a two-piece affair split horizontally just below the waterline with a separate conning tower, masts (with raised or lowered sensors), and single piece dive plane assembly. Parts fit well, assembling cleanly in just a few minutes. To call this kit simple would be an understatement; excluding the stand and alternate masts, the model consists of a mere five parts! Although apparently designed for quick building, it is nevertheless packed with minute, accurate detail. The multitude of drain vents on the hull and deck, torpedo doors, hatches, sensors, and other assorted bits are beautifully depicted. Even the connectors on the aft dive planes aft are represented in scale - very impressive. This is some of the smallest, sharpest casting I've ever seen on an injection molded plastic model. The kit comes with decals for sub hull number 299 and extra numbers so you can build any of the other Chinese Type 33s (hull numbers 249-60, 268-80, 286-7, 291-304, 343-349, 351, and 355). It also comes with a prepainted stand with "1/700 SCALE PLA NAVY TYPE 33 CLASS" in white lettering already printed on it;a nice touch. This superb little model is the only Hobby Boss kit I've built thus far, but if they are all like this we have much to look forward to!
(TR) Review dated December 2008.
Editor's Note: See notes under Ticonderoga-class
Editor's Note: See notes under Spruance-class.
Editor's Note: See notes under Los Angeles-class
Editor's Note: This kit, or close variants of it, has been issued as:
Editor's Note: This kit, or close variants of it, has been issued as:
Editor's Note: See notes under Ticonderoga-class
They are all in 1/700.
Initial list provided by Uwe Besken (besken@gmx.de) (JP)
Check out their web page.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1944.
OK. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is an all resin model with no photo etch. All parts are molded in yellow/tan resin. One piece hull molded up to main deck includes deck planking, some splinter shields (admirably thin) and some anchor details. Sides of hull are plain. All other parts are cast on wafers including the main battery gun barrels which are flat cast and very difficult to remove without damaging them. Most of the remaining pieces are small and not highly detailed. They are all difficult to get off of the wafers and the weapons, especially are covered in flash. You will need metal rod or tubing for masts, yards and davits. Rigging sketch is rudimentary. You will need a good set of plans to complete this ship correctly.
Directions:: include the usual line drawings of side and overhead views, exploded view assembly diagram, parts inventory and a supplementary sheet showing the fabrication of the masts and yards. Better than usual.
Packaging: flimsy folded paper box top with grainy photo of the real ship as box art. Bottom is sturdy cardboard. All parts are bagged and wrapped in bubble wrap.
(WJS), review dated 8 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1945.
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: all resin kit except for main battery gun barrels which are brass, a big plus. One piece hull is cleanly cast and has nicely detailed splinter shields incorporated into the deck. All other parts cast on wafers repeating the method used on all HP kits I'm familiar with. Superior detail to earlier offerings but the wafer/flash problem persists. Much of the delicate detail and small parts are easily broken while trying to remove and trim them. To avoid disappointment with the finished product I recommend that the modeler be forearmed with Skywave USN Weapons sets before working on this kit or any other HP USN kit. Also have on hand brass rod and a good pe set. Main battery turrets don't have much detail but the various superstructure parts have much more detail than earlier subjects. Also, some help is offered with locater points on the various decks to assist in assembly, another improvement.
Directions:: 4 pages consisting of a one page parts list, one page of line drawings of side and overhead views and two pages of exploded view assembly drawings that are sufficient to build the kit with the parts supplied.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a photo of the real ship as box art. All parts are bagged and wrapped in bubble wrap to minimize transport damage.
(WJS), review dated 4 February 2006.
Includes three B-17s, three P-47s, three Me-163s and three Me-262s.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1944.
Represents ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1943
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1941
Editor's Notes: Represents ship in 1916-1918. Apparently, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942
Editor's Notes: Represents ship in 1916. See notes under Baden-class
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1944-1945.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1916
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1945.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1932
Represents ship in 1939.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1939.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1943.
GOOD. (based on In Box Review)
Note: If my minimal German language skills haven't failed me, I believe the kit contents will produce the ship in its 1902 fit. Kudos to H-P for producing a kit of an obscure subject.
Kit Parts: This is one of H-Ps newer offerings and the parts reflect changes from earlier kits that are for the better. This is an all resin kit with turned brass main battery gun barrels (which are quite nice and quite tiny!). There is also included a nice flag sheet. The resin is the usual yellow. The one piece hull is beautifully cast with incredibly thin superstructure incorporated. Planking is over scale and details such as coal ports, etc. missing but still very nice (almost nobody else includes those things so let's not be too hard on H-P for the coal ports). Consistent with H-Ps usual practice all other parts are cast on resin wafers. This makes removing delicate small parts very difficult and also creates quite a bit of flash to deal with. Thankfully the resin wafers are thinner than usual making that task a bit less odious. Ship’s boats are better detailed than many other H-P Kits but the secondary battery and deck guns will be extremely difficult to remove from the flash surrounding them. I did not note any miscast or malformed parts at all. You will need brass rod or tubing for the masts and yards as well as some plastic stock to detail other parts.
Directions:: H-Ps newer offerings seem to be much better with the directions and supplements. Page 1 is a half sheet photocopy of a photograph of the ship taken from a point slightly aft of port. Page 2 is a repeat photo on a full size sheet along with a ship’s history and statistics, text all in German. Page 3 consists of large drawings of the ship’s starboard side and an overhead drawing. Page 4 is a large exploded view diagram showing the parts placement in the assembly process. Although no sequence is called out it is not necessary. Page 5 is a color sheet with side and overhead views along with painting instructions in German. Page 6 consists of drawings and photographs of the ship’s layout in 1918 with accompanying German text. Page 7 contains an alternative paint scheme with drawings and text in German. Page 8 details the fit of the various ship's boats with supplementary text in German. Page 9 is a line drawing/parts list for inventory purposes.
Packaging: flimsy folded paper lid with a reproduction of a painting of the ship in colors earlier than the kit contents (I think so at any rate). This lid is fitted over a heavy recycled cardboard box. All parts are bagged and slipped into little mini bubble wrap sacks. The enormous number of pages of directions are then folded into the box insuring no parts movement.
(WJS), review dated 6 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1943.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1944.
FAIR/GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: all resin kit no photo-etch or metal parts included. All parts cast in yellow/tan resin. Very nice, detailed single piece hull with no obvious defects. Main battery gun barrels cast with the turrets on wafers, flashy and hard to remove without breaking, a fact acknowledged by the inclusion of spares. Nicely cast AA platforms and decks with good detail but once again difficult to remove from the wafers. Superstructure parts much more detailed than earlier offerings from HP and cast on thinner wafers making them easier to remove. AA battery is just hopelessly covered in flash and not worth working with. Brass rod will be needed for mast and yard fabrication and photo-etch is a necessity as well for the radar cranes and catapults. Keep on buying those Skywave USN Weapons sets!
Directions:: an incredible multipage set of illustrations and color plates showing detailed drawings of all structures and assemblies, these are the best directions I have ever seen from HP!
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a photo of the real ship as box art. All parts are bagged and wrapped in bubble wrap to minimize transport damage.
(WJS), review dated 4 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1916.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1944.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit with the exception of the main battery gun barrels which are done in turned brass. The light yellow-tan resin parts have lots of detail and in many instances are marvelously thin (i.e. splinter shields). The hull is one piece with very nice detail (although the torpedo bulge seems too thick to me). All other parts are cast on none too thin wafers and are very difficult to remove without damage, especially the crane parts, secondary battery and even more so the AA battery. It would be a lot less frustrating to the builder to simply buy or scrounge up the whole AA battery from somewhere else (like a Skywave weapons set or two). An odd thing about this kit is that the unique cage mast is cast as a solid piece of resin. You will have to buy a PE set for this ship to do it justice so while you're at it buy some brass rod too for the masts and yards. (Tom's Modelworks set #720 will do nicely for the PE).
Directions:: 5 single sided sheets. Page 1 contains gorgeous, highly detailed 1/700 scale line drawings of side and overhead views of the ship, Page 2 is an exploded view of the entire assembly process that is somewhat confusing, no sequence offered. Page 3 is a nice color plate of the disruptive camouflage scheme used in 1944 and shows both side views. Page 4 is a color overhead view of the camouflage scheme. Page 5 is a parts list.
Packaging: sturdy white cardboard box with a photo of the actual ship on the box top as the box art. All parts bagged and then bubble wrapped. Every effort was made to avoid damage in shipping. Nonetheless, my example suffered a number of broken splinter shields. Care must be taken when working with these extremely thin parts and even removing them from the wafers and packaging. NOTE: This kit is a vast improvement over earlier offerings from this company. However, you will need the skills of a surgeon to remove most of the small parts from the flash and the wafers they are prisoners in. Given the high cost of this kit the lack of basic PE (especially the cage mast) and the difficulty in utilizing the AA battery is very frustrating. This is not for the beginner!
(WJS), review dated 2 February 2006.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1940
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1940.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942.
Editor's Notes: Represents ship in 1916. Apparently, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1912.
5 Pieces. Represents ships from 1939-1945
5 Sections
2 Sections.
2 Sections.
2 Sections.
Ex-British. Represents ship in 1944.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1907.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1939
GOOD. Nice kit in all but planking and hull windows. Planking is too rough by modern standards. Windows seem to be drilled at a glance and rather resemble shelled holes. You will need to putty and redrill a dozen of them.
(AS), Review dated 7 April 2010.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1944/45
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1934.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1944.
Portrays the ship in 1914.
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: This is an all resin kit with the addition of brass main battery gun barrels. Resin parts are cast in yellow/tan resin. The hull is a one piece casting with lots of detail incorporated. There is NO deck planking scribed on the deck areas. All other parts are cast on thin wafers easier to remove than many other HP kits I have seen. Simplified superstructure limits the amount of work necessary to rescue the small number of parts from the flash that is all over them. The cranes and masts will be very difficult to work with so have some brass rod around to help fabricate these parts.
Directions:: one page of side and overhead view line drawings, one page parts list and one page exploded view assembly diagram. Given the simplified nature of the ship the directions should be adequate except for the cranes, boat equipment and rigging. Get some plans for that.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a photo of the real ship as box art. All parts are bagged and wrapped in bubble wrap to minimize transport damage.
(WJS), review dated 6 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 194